GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Granatelli Turbo Install

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Old 12/12/07, 08:06 PM
  #301  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt995
Fine, for you I will go back to my GMS magic fairy dust. The magic fairy dust makes the laws of physics vanish and makes springs instantly compress in the blink of an eye.
It seems like you have your own Bullitt995 dust - You basicaly saying you are right and everyone else is wrong. I dig your tenacity
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Old 12/12/07, 08:09 PM
  #302  
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Originally Posted by 65sohc
I am the one who told Tom that the wastegate valve begins to open gradually at about 3 psi and is fully open as boost reaches 8 psi because this is exactly what happens. I know because in a former life I had a 522 rwhp single turbo Supra on which I spent hundreds of hours experimenting and testing. It had a Turbonetics Racegate. To observe the action of the wastegate I removed it and attached a pressure line with an inline gauge to the side port on the actuator. As I recall I was running a 9 psi spring. As I slowly increased the pressure I could see the wastegate valve begin to unseat at approximately 3 psi and fully open by 9 psi, much like a camshaft opening an intake valve.
However if you used compressed air - you had but load of pressure and very little flow. I have a racegate here. I am happy to make a video - it may take a few days but I can do that
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Old 12/12/07, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 65sohc
I am the one who told Tom that the wastegate valve begins to open gradually at about 3 psi and is fully open as boost reaches 8 psi because this is exactly what happens. I know because in a former life I had a 522 rwhp single turbo Supra on which I spent hundreds of hours experimenting and testing. It had a Turbonetics Racegate. To observe the action of the wastegate I removed it and attached a pressure line with an inline gauge to the side port on the actuator. As I recall I was running a 9 psi spring. As I slowly increased the pressure I could see the wastegate valve begin to unseat at approximately 3 psi and fully open by 9 psi, much like a camshaft opening an intake valve.
Hmm someone else who actually knows what they're talking about.
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Old 12/12/07, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Granatelli
You basicaly saying you are right and everyone else is wrong.
So wait, what are you saying then? That Isaac Newton fellow was wrong?

GMS is sooooooo cutting edge that the laws of physics don't even apply to the products they sell. I might have to invest in a GMS filter for my car maybe it will help my intake flow another 200 cfm and make few extra horsepower. I'm through butting heads with people who refuse to believe common sense. Trooper should build better boost with his boost controller and I wish him the best of luck with his car. His results will speak for themselves. I might come back to say "I told you so".
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Old 12/13/07, 12:44 AM
  #305  
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I am still wondering about a boost leak on the intake side. Trooper said that after JR drove his car he deemed the BOV to be working properly. Well, I don't see how you can rule out a leaking BOV by driving the car. I'm not saying that that is the problem but it happened to me. I had a GReddy BOV on my Supra. However mine was adjustable and apparently Tom's is not. On the GReddy the lock nut came loose and the tension on the spring backed off to the point that under boost the pressure would push the valve open. The only way I found this out was by pressurizing the entire intake system using my air compressor and listening for leaks.
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Old 12/13/07, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Granatelli
However if you used compressed air - you had but load of pressure and very little flow. I have a racegate here. I am happy to make a video - it may take a few days but I can do that
I ran about 20 psi into the manual boost controller and gradually increased the outlet pressure from the MBC into the actuator side port from zero to 10 psi and observed the action of the WG valve. I think this pretty well simulates real life. There is no flow per se going through the actuator. It is a closed chamber.
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Old 12/13/07, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 65sohc
I am still wondering about a boost leak on the intake side. Trooper said that after JR drove his car he deemed the BOV to be working properly. Well, I don't see how you can rule out a leaking BOV by driving the car. I'm not saying that that is the problem but it happened to me. I had a GReddy BOV on my Supra. However mine was adjustable and apparently Tom's is not. On the GReddy the lock nut came loose and the tension on the spring backed off to the point that under boost the pressure would push the valve open. The only way I found this out was by pressurizing the entire intake system using my air compressor and listening for leaks.
I've been pretty easy going through this entire ordeal - I think anybody here can give me credit for that.

I have mentioned a bad BOV from day one since a few people here thought that may be the issue. JR himself said it sounded like it wasn't opening properly in my videos.

At PRI I said I wanted to try a new BOV. In emails I said I wanted to try a new BOV.

JR, I sincerely do not want to have my BOV taken apart and tested... I want a NEW BOV. Is this really too much to ask after spending 6 grand? You are so sure that a boost controller won't work, so let's forget I'm even getting one -- send me a new BOV.

Is HKS such a tiny, poor company that they can't afford to send out a new BOV first?
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Old 12/13/07, 05:54 AM
  #308  
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Originally Posted by Granatelli
My point was more generic in that both the Hellion guy and the STS turbo guy were willing to say GMS makes great stuff. I can add Tom to that list too
I wouldn't be so quick to draw that conclusion.........................

I think Tom is on the fence at this point, he could be real happy if you sent him a new BOV so he could determine once and for all if that is the source of all troubles. Send a new BOV and Tom sends the old BOV back, seems fair to me considering all the trouble Tom has had to endure so far and the 6K he's spent with you.
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Old 12/13/07, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt995
So wait, what are you saying then? That Isaac Newton fellow was wrong?

GMS is sooooooo cutting edge that the laws of physics don't even apply to the products they sell. I might have to invest in a GMS filter for my car maybe it will help my intake flow another 200 cfm and make few extra horsepower. I'm through butting heads with people who refuse to believe common sense. Trooper should build better boost with his boost controller and I wish him the best of luck with his car. His results will speak for themselves. I might come back to say "I told you so".
Jake, you da man, thanks for the info. I really like your thought processes.
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Old 12/13/07, 06:01 AM
  #310  
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Originally Posted by 65sohc
I am still wondering about a boost leak on the intake side. Trooper said that after JR drove his car he deemed the BOV to be working properly. Well, I don't see how you can rule out a leaking BOV by driving the car. I'm not saying that that is the problem but it happened to me. I had a GReddy BOV on my Supra. However mine was adjustable and apparently Tom's is not. On the GReddy the lock nut came loose and the tension on the spring backed off to the point that under boost the pressure would push the valve open. The only way I found this out was by pressurizing the entire intake system using my air compressor and listening for leaks.
I like this theory..................

I still think the spring is bleeding off pressure below targeted boost (6 or 8 forget ha)

But you definitely understand this much better then most, even better then................oh we won't go there
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Old 12/13/07, 06:05 AM
  #311  
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Originally Posted by 65sohc
The highest Tom's will go is 13.5 psi, and then only at peak rpm with the wastegate disconnected. Even when it does eventually reach 13 psi it is making a fraction of the power any other turbo Mustang would make at that level of boost. To say that it is not the fastest Mustang running 13 psi is an understatement. I would venture that it is the slowest.To look at the dyno graph you would never suspect that the engine is turbocharged. Boost seems to rise more in response to rpm than as a function of turbo spool-up. As far as comparing it to his 89, I was merely illustrating the fact that by 4500 the turbo should be fully spooled and absolutely killing any 5 liter NA motor.
Originally Posted by 65sohc
By delaying the signal to the wastegate. With an 8psi spring the wastegate starts cracking open at about 3 psi, bleeding off exhaust and slowing spool-up. A boost controller will stay completely closed until 6-7 psi allowing more exhaust to work to accelerate the turbine wheel.
Maybe (vendor not to be named ha) you should listen and learn from 65sohc, definitely good stuff and good info here for all.
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Old 12/13/07, 06:31 AM
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I gotta say, each & every thread that involves GMS usually gets entertaining......
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Old 12/13/07, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by philster2003
I wouldn't be so quick to draw that conclusion.........................

I think Tom is on the fence at this point, he could be real happy if you sent him a new BOV so he could determine once and for all if that is the source of all troubles. Send a new BOV and Tom sends the old BOV back, seems fair to me considering all the trouble Tom has had to endure so far and the 6K he's spent with you.
I will give credit where credit is due. I like the GMS layout over other company's turbo kits. Everything has been high quality. Even the GMS suspension parts on my '89 are high quality.

I do have an issue with me sending the BOV back to be tested first. JR may say that I flipped sides on this one, and he is correct. I had the BOV off the car ready to send back to be inspected, but I changed my mind. I don't want it taken apart, evaluated, and put back together. They can do that to the old BOV I send back AFTER I get a new one.

Thanks for the support from everybody here, but I would like to ask for a small favor. Please stop the JR and GMS bashing. I met him, he gave me all the time in the world, he's a great guy. If he could wave a magic wand and fix this, I'm sure he would.

If you want to continue with the support, back me up that he should pull some strings to get HKS to send me a new BOV to test.

I'm not trying to "throw parts" at it, like we say at Disney. I think through the troubleshooting, that trying out a new BOV is a smart move to make in the right direction.
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Old 12/13/07, 08:06 AM
  #314  
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There is definatly seems to be a boost leak somewhere.
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Old 12/13/07, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 89Trooper
Thanks for the support from everybody here, but I would like to ask for a small favor. Please stop the JR and GMS bashing. I met him, he gave me all the time in the world, he's a great guy. If he could wave a magic wand and fix this, I'm sure he would.

If you want to continue with the support, back me up that he should pull some strings to get HKS to send me a new BOV to test.

Totally back you up on getting a new BOV sent before you send in the old BOV.


I do reserve the right to comment but will now wait for this to come to a conclusion and then we can document what went right and what went wrong, the ole postmortem as we like to call it in the business world.
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Old 12/13/07, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt995
So wait, what are you saying then? That Isaac Newton fellow was wrong?

GMS is sooooooo cutting edge that the laws of physics don't even apply to the products they sell. I might have to invest in a GMS filter for my car maybe it will help my intake flow another 200 cfm and make few extra horsepower. I'm through butting heads with people who refuse to believe common sense. Trooper should build better boost with his boost controller and I wish him the best of luck with his car. His results will speak for themselves. I might come back to say "I told you so".
I hope your right.
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Old 12/13/07, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 65sohc
I ran about 20 psi into the manual boost controller and gradually increased the outlet pressure from the MBC into the actuator side port from zero to 10 psi and observed the action of the WG valve. I think this pretty well simulates real life. There is no flow per se going through the actuator. It is a closed chamber.
I agree. However in order to recreate what happens in the car you need to look at the pressure (exh pres) that is normally on the opening side of the valve
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Old 12/13/07, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 89Trooper
I've been pretty easy going through this entire ordeal - I think anybody here can give me credit for that.
Originally Posted by 89Trooper

I have mentioned a bad BOV from day one since a few people here thought that may be the issue. JR himself said it sounded like it wasn't opening properly in my videos.

At PRI I said I wanted to try a new BOV. In emails I said I wanted to try a new BOV.

JR, I sincerely do not want to have my BOV taken apart and tested... I want a NEW BOV. Is this really too much to ask after spending 6 grand? You are so sure that a boost controller won't work, so let's forget I'm even getting one -- send me a new BOV.

Is HKS such a tiny, poor company that they can't afford to send out a new BOV first?


I here you buddy - But I still need the first valve back. I have already offered to exchange (check out) the turbo, BOV and waste gate. I looked at your BOV very closely and I saw no issue. I did check for a vacuum leak on all ports and well as the shaft that goes down the center. At the cost of being the bad guy - Your (we all) are assuming the issue is Granatelli fault and that there is no way there is an install error. What is the BOV was dropped during install or the waste gate. One never knows until we see it. I understand better then most that the internet makes the manufacture accountable but that does not mean we are always to blame. I have offered to inspect the turbo 4 or 5 times but you don’t want to take if off because is it too much work. If I send you the BOV today and that is not the problem, then tomorrow it will be send the waste gate, then send the turbo, then send the intercooler. Have you checked to see if there is crack in the intercooler by the way. It is possible that a weld cracked and the boost is leaking through there. can you do a visual all the way around.
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Old 12/13/07, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by tom281
I gotta say, each & every thread that involves GMS usually gets entertaining......


That is because I am one of the few that speaks out. So with that said - you can all bash away. I made my offer to inspect the parts. If the part is bad, I WILL REPLACE IT, not fix the broken one. But if the part is good I don't want a used one back in exchange for the new one we sent with the kit. If anyone thinks our policy is unreasonable - SORRY. Try calling HKS direct and see if they stand behind their product more then we do.

If giving Tom my cell phone so he can call anytime he wants is bad business then I am guilty of bad business

If calling the tuner for Tom so I could get the full round down of all the events that transpired is bad business then I am guilty of bad business

If trying to get his car redyno for 3 days while I was in Florida is bad business then I am guilty of bad business

I am still struggling with why no one called me while they were on the dyno the first time. After Tom got the first custom tune on the dyno I was out of the loop. But when he wanted a revised tune for free, I got that for him as well – so again if that makes me a bad business man then I am guilty of bad business

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Old 12/13/07, 06:51 PM
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Your (we all) are assuming the issue is Granatelli fault and that there is no way there is an install error.
I never said it was your fault. I triple check everything - an install error is possible, but not probable (actually, very unlikely).

What is the BOV was dropped during install or the waste gate. One never knows until we see it.
No way. I handle stuff very carefully and won't even lay stuff on the garage floor... always on towels.

I have offered to inspect the turbo 4 or 5 times but you don’t want to take if off because is it too much work.
Taken out of context... it's too much work (a waste of time) if it was fine all along. If everything else checks out and the turbo is the only thing left to blame, then (and only then) will I remove it.

If I send you the BOV today and that is not the problem, then tomorrow it will be send the waste gate, then send the turbo, then send the intercooler.
That would be "throwing parts at it", which I don't do. From my research I have learned that this is pointing toward boost leaking in the intake. If all my clamps are tight, what's left on the intake side? The BOV.

Have you checked to see if there is crack in the intercooler by the way. It is possible that a weld cracked and the boost is leaking through there. can you do a visual all the way around.

I will check this out Saturday when I'm doing my balloon test.
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