Brake upgrades for the track after reviews
#241
V6 Member
Join Date: November 30, 2010
Location: Greenville,WI
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Question which I am not clear on. Have read this braking section 2 or 3 times now. I have dot 4 fluid/brake cooling ducts and want to improve the braking feel and power and bite. I have yet to run R tires more for simplicity than anything else. I have tracked quite a bit so am not a novice. Was thinking of pfc01 or dct 60 on the front with track dedicated rotor. Can I do this and just run stock pads and rotors on the back or will I have problems. Without R comps am I going to engage abs too frequently? thanks for your help.
#242
I doubt you will have an issue. Braking grip is greatly dependent on the tire; r compounds will be more prone to an abs fit than street tires will be.
#243
Cobra Member
Join Date: August 5, 2008
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Only one way to find out...
I'd say do the upgraded pads/rotors in front now, see how it goes. My guess is you'll burn through the stock rear pads much quicker, and probably have more understeer on trail braking?? If you're not happy with it, then do the rears.
As suggested above, you might want to go to a more aggressive but still streetable rear pad, like the HP Plus. The stock Boss pads are supposed to be upgraded from the standard 5.0, does anybody know who/what they use?
I'd say do the upgraded pads/rotors in front now, see how it goes. My guess is you'll burn through the stock rear pads much quicker, and probably have more understeer on trail braking?? If you're not happy with it, then do the rears.
As suggested above, you might want to go to a more aggressive but still streetable rear pad, like the HP Plus. The stock Boss pads are supposed to be upgraded from the standard 5.0, does anybody know who/what they use?
#244
Bullitt Member
Join Date: July 4, 2011
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Can I do this and just run stock pads and rotors on the back or will I have problems. Without R comps am I going to engage abs too frequently? thanks for your help.
FWIW, I ran DTC-60s last Friday with OEM rear pads. I had no issues with burning up my rear pads... and they really don't show any wear.
The stock Boss pads are supposed to be upgraded from the standard 5.0, does anybody know who/what they use?
#245
Bullitt Member
Join Date: March 15, 2011
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Only one way to find out...
I'd say do the upgraded pads/rotors in front now, see how it goes. My guess is you'll burn through the stock rear pads much quicker, and probably have more understeer on trail braking?? If you're not happy with it, then do the rears.
As suggested above, you might want to go to a more aggressive but still streetable rear pad, like the HP Plus. The stock Boss pads are supposed to be upgraded from the standard 5.0, does anybody know who/what they use?
I'd say do the upgraded pads/rotors in front now, see how it goes. My guess is you'll burn through the stock rear pads much quicker, and probably have more understeer on trail braking?? If you're not happy with it, then do the rears.
As suggested above, you might want to go to a more aggressive but still streetable rear pad, like the HP Plus. The stock Boss pads are supposed to be upgraded from the standard 5.0, does anybody know who/what they use?
www.tmdfriction.com/
#246
Bullitt Member
Join Date: July 4, 2011
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Stock Pads are made by TMD Friction for Brembo. TMD is a big European Racing pad company and Make the Pads for NASCAR
www.tmdfriction.com/
www.tmdfriction.com/
I'll verify and take a photo on Friday when I swap to track pads (again).
#247
Cobra Member
Join Date: August 5, 2008
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Both front and rear are Ferrodo?
Realized today I had a cross threaded lug on the driver's rear. Sheared it off in the lug getting the wheel off, so have to take it in to get a new one placed tomorrow.
Anybody gone to the ARP studs? Know which ones to get? Might do that over the winter, as all the lugs are getting a bit galled and difficult.
Realized today I had a cross threaded lug on the driver's rear. Sheared it off in the lug getting the wheel off, so have to take it in to get a new one placed tomorrow.
Anybody gone to the ARP studs? Know which ones to get? Might do that over the winter, as all the lugs are getting a bit galled and difficult.
#248
Both front and rear are Ferrodo?
Realized today I had a cross threaded lug on the driver's rear. Sheared it off in the lug getting the wheel off, so have to take it in to get a new one placed tomorrow.
Anybody gone to the ARP studs? Know which ones to get? Might do that over the winter, as all the lugs are getting a bit galled and difficult.
Realized today I had a cross threaded lug on the driver's rear. Sheared it off in the lug getting the wheel off, so have to take it in to get a new one placed tomorrow.
Anybody gone to the ARP studs? Know which ones to get? Might do that over the winter, as all the lugs are getting a bit galled and difficult.
It's easy to replace them. Knock out the sheared off one with a hammer (and punch if necessary), then align the new one, put a bunch of washers on it then a sacrificial lugnut (or just an open-ended lug nut), then tighten it down w/ an air-impact. The tightening action will seat the new lug knurls in the axle and all is well. There is a specific cutout in the hardware back there to allow a lug to get in/out from the backside, look for it.
#249
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
Join Date: December 18, 2010
Location: NorCal
Posts: 3,708
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It was suggested to me by a member of Ford Racing that using anything other stock pads and rotors on the rear is a waste of money. The 302R I checked at the Grand Am race at Laguna Seca had stock rear rotors but I do not know what rear pads were being used. The fronts used the Brembo pro kit.
#251
Shelby GT350 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: November 20, 2010
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I've run stock level pads in the rear on Mustangs and lit them up like a Cuban cigar. A lot of it depends on how hard you drive, how late you brake, etc. For me, the DTC 70/60 combo works GREAT. DTC 60 rears are about $140 and they'll last you 10-20 track days, so the incremental expense is insignificant....especially in comparison to the total cost of tracking the car.
#252
Cobra Member
Join Date: August 5, 2008
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd be surprised if stock anything would last in a 302R. The sustained temps are just too high.
I'm guessing Ford has a different part number for the rear Boss pads, would be interesting to see the cost, and the longevity of that pad compared to an upgraded HP Plus, HT, or DTC pad. Wonder if it's worth the hassle of the swapping in the rear -- either keeping the stock pad there, and not having to change out for the street and the frequency/cost associated with that shorter-life pad, or the hassle of swapping pads and/or rotors if the car is dual street/track.
I'm guessing Ford has a different part number for the rear Boss pads, would be interesting to see the cost, and the longevity of that pad compared to an upgraded HP Plus, HT, or DTC pad. Wonder if it's worth the hassle of the swapping in the rear -- either keeping the stock pad there, and not having to change out for the street and the frequency/cost associated with that shorter-life pad, or the hassle of swapping pads and/or rotors if the car is dual street/track.
#253
Shelby GT350 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: November 20, 2010
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Wonder if it's worth the hassle of the swapping in the rear -- either keeping the stock pad there, and not having to change out for the street and the frequency/cost associated with that shorter-life pad, or the hassle of swapping pads and/or rotors if the car is dual street/track.
#254
Bullitt Member
Join Date: July 4, 2011
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#255
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
Join Date: December 18, 2010
Location: NorCal
Posts: 3,708
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd be surprised if stock anything would last in a 302R. The sustained temps are just too high.
I'm guessing Ford has a different part number for the rear Boss pads, would be interesting to see the cost, and the longevity of that pad compared to an upgraded HP Plus, HT, or DTC pad. Wonder if it's worth the hassle of the swapping in the rear -- either keeping the stock pad there, and not having to change out for the street and the frequency/cost associated with that shorter-life pad, or the hassle of swapping pads and/or rotors if the car is dual street/track.
I'm guessing Ford has a different part number for the rear Boss pads, would be interesting to see the cost, and the longevity of that pad compared to an upgraded HP Plus, HT, or DTC pad. Wonder if it's worth the hassle of the swapping in the rear -- either keeping the stock pad there, and not having to change out for the street and the frequency/cost associated with that shorter-life pad, or the hassle of swapping pads and/or rotors if the car is dual street/track.
Where was it written that the rear brakes were weak?
#256
Cobra Member
Join Date: August 5, 2008
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's the truth -- I'd love a slide-in pad design there.
I burned through a fairly fresh RedStuff rear set in one weekend; maybe it doesn't have the longevity of the Boss Ferodo, but if it's a pad swap per track weekend, I'm guessing cost wise it'd be better to have the track-only pad in there (one extra swap per weekend then).
I burned through a fairly fresh RedStuff rear set in one weekend; maybe it doesn't have the longevity of the Boss Ferodo, but if it's a pad swap per track weekend, I'm guessing cost wise it'd be better to have the track-only pad in there (one extra swap per weekend then).
Last edited by CO_VaporGT_09; 8/16/11 at 05:57 PM.
#257
You could get away with Yellowstuff in the rear for a dual-purpose pad...but they dust like crazy and are very noisy on the street.
#258
Bullitt Member
How noisy are HP Plus pads to run on the street to keep from switching out the backs at the track (its either that or hps for street and swap at track)? Looking to hopefully just swap front rotors and pads. Also about to swap my fluid, how much was required to flush the system and then fill with dot4?
#259
How noisy are HP Plus pads to run on the street to keep from switching out the backs at the track (its either that or hps for street and swap at track)? Looking to hopefully just swap front rotors and pads. Also about to swap my fluid, how much was required to flush the system and then fill with dot4?
I used 2 quarts to swap mine but I do not know the exact amount, at the end I was just flushing out the last caliper since I was not going to keep an open can.
The HP+ on the rear have not made any noise as far as I can tell, it is all in the front. Here are the rears in mine after four track days and some street driving. I do not run nearly as hard as some of the others here.
Last edited by 2012YellowBoss; 8/16/11 at 08:26 PM.
#260
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
Join Date: December 18, 2010
Location: NorCal
Posts: 3,708
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It was suggested to me by a member of Ford Racing that using anything other stock pads and rotors on the rear is a waste of money. The 302R I checked at the Grand Am race at Laguna Seca had stock rear rotors but I do not know what rear pads were being used. The fronts used the Brembo pro kit.