cloud9

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=759

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/ind...howtopic=51062

cloud9

Well it was $13 on sale so what the heck. Yea $240 is a bit pricey

CO_VaporGT_09

You mean this??

http://www.zeckhausen.com/Tools/cali...n_spreader.htm

CO_VaporGT_09

Well against Shawn's advice, I just ordered a set of Bluestuff from AJ-USA (10% discount), so I'll be the guinea pig. Reading through the British forums of the w WRX and Evo boys sounds like EBC got bought out recently and greatly improved their quality control, though do admit they had problems with pad separation in the past.

One of my NASA instructors had his DTC pads fall apart, and Hawk stated there must have been a manufacturing flaw on that set, so I don't think any company is immune to that.

The cost on the Bluestuff is about 60% that of the DTC/HT combo, so I'll see how it goes. Gotta get my ducts hooked up as well.
Currently have the Yellowstuff on, and they've held up well, are usable but not great for the street (though I have more noise than dust, currently).

Ronin38

cloud9- Thanks for the links!

CO VaporGT 09- Whenever I was using my Yellow's on the street, when/if I got some brake squeal I just repeated the brake-bedding procedure. A few hard stops to heat them back up again seemed to knock the dust loose and then they wouldn't squeal again for quite a while. Also- did you use the red anti-squeal grease on the backs of the pads? I know they have shims, but the grease helped too.

I always used the old brake pad and one of the "quick grip" clamps to press the pistons back in. The clamp works great one-handed and worked very well!

iDrive

I've used Brembo, Hawk, Ferodo, EBC, and Project Mu. Each brand had there unique properties, but EBC was the worst imo. Although very expensive, Project Mu was the best, but with heavy dusting and noise. Ferodo and Hawk were both decent with exceptional wear.

Dave

iDrive

Anyone use Carbotech?

Dave

Stinger1982

nope, they wear waaaaaaaaaaaay too fast (it amazes me how fast they wear)
No every real race pad is going to dust heavy and make a ton of noise when in the pits etc but the carbotechs are multiple times dustier then any other race pad (might explain the extreme wear). I would be interested to see if Carbotech's could last on a Lotus elise or something even lighter then that, say Ariel Atom, because they sure dont last on heavy cars like Mustangs!

I persoanlly run Performance Friction PFC-01's on the front, same stopping power as a DTC-70 (hawks most aggressive pad), way easier on the rotor and great pad life (after all we run them on Grand Am cars for full length races). the PFC's are rated to have a maximum operating temperature of 2,000 degrees

They have way more stopping power then EBC Blues (since the blues dont stop as hard as the green, red's or yellows). The blues are also only good to ~1,000 degress

CO_VaporGT_09

The rebedding does help, but not the easiest to do when it's cold in the winter and there's road gravel everywhere. I didn't use any grease on the back of these, knowing I'd be swapping them out and not wanting to make more of a mess than they already are.

I'm gonna have to get one of those quick grips, compressing pistons cramps my hands too much.

I was very happy with the EBC Redstuff, minimal dust, no noise, good bite, but wore them down quickly on the track. The Yellows held up much better on the track and have served on the street fine. So now I guess I'll run the whole spectrum of EBC and see what I think, maybe I'll decide to move up to Hawks, maybe not. But if they do work well, It'll save some money over time. (I'm just doing HPDEs at this point, so not too competitive; hoping to go to time trials in a year or two, maybe American Iron down the road, so might be more willing to spend the coin at that point).

CO_VaporGT_09

Hey Shaun,

I've got separate front disc's now, and could get some separate rears, to have a full separate track/street setup, but it's quite a bit of work swapping the discs out for each track event. I drive to/from the track (got a tire trailer recently that I have to get a trailer hitch installed for at some point, but wearing out some old tires first) and while that's not much road use on dedicated track pads/rotors, won't that simply remove the bedding as the race pads go into friction mode again?

Do you swap the rotors and pads at the track, or do that at home then drive there, or just trailer the car? I'm trying to think of a way to do this all and still fit it into tight weekend schedules -- though I know the track rat's answer is always have one car for the street, one for the track (I'll get there eventually, but not yet).

Stinger1982

dude with the tool rear pad changes are a snap! we have one in the pit cart I use it all the time (I just need my own now).

The trick is dont take both bolts off the rear caliper. Take the front bolt out and lossen the rear about half way. then rotate the caliper to the rear and let that back boft hold the caliper for you whilie you use the tool. If you take both bolts off its waaaaaaaaay harder.

Stinger1982

I know it is a PITA (I say that in an "I'm sorry" type of tone of voice). But ipromise its the better idea. the front are 100x's more important, so you have the big part already handled.

I swap at the track (pads and rotors). Its a lot of work when your a one man show (did it for years) and I am glad that I go to the track now with the team, the extra hands make everything go so much faster.

The only issues with driving to the track on race pad are as follows:

1. The pads dont work well at lower temps, you will have longer stopping distances.

2. The race pads will wear much faster then street pads at low temps (due to street driving) and race pads wear waaaay faster on the street then they do on the track

3. Its really easy to get full ABS engament when you would not expect on the street (aka hard to panic stop) and this can leave weird pad transfer on the rotor.

cloud9

This.

cloud9

OK, so I'm in a similar situation to CO_VaporGT_09, except I trailer my car so I do the pad swap at home in my garage on jack stands before loading it up for the track. My pit crew is just me and my teenage son if he's not out with his girlfriend. As a compromise, would it be fair to say that we could swap the front rotors for track use, but leave the rears and just do a pad swap on them?

ApexCars

Crap, I had no idea that the Brembos didn't have drop in pads! Why the hell not! I guess I'm spoiled from dealing with the brakes on a Porsche, but I was really looking forward to having drop in pads at least on the front. Changing pads at the track in the summer in Texas is not a pleasant job. That's why I was trying to find rear upgrades. Oh well, I guess all the weight I lose in sweat will only help my lap times if I don't collapse from heat exhaustion.

ApexCars

This is what I want on all four wheels.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpGMRZcEhzw

Overboost

WOW! Those are awesome! I'd love a set of those.

MrBonus

Another vote for PFC. I've been running PFC01s for the past three years on my Evo X previously and more recently on my 993. While a few other manufacturers seem to wear better, I could boil ATE Super Blue before I could get these pads to fade and bedding them in is extremely simple. I plan on using them for my Boss too.

CO_VaporGT_09

That's basically what my Stoptech/Saleen calipers are, but they're a bit more secure in that they have a bolt-in bridge:








Allen bolt to unscrew the bridge, pull the bridge out, the pads slide in/out easily (IF the pistons aren't fully clamped down -- then have to push them in a bit).

I thought the Mustang Brembo's were similar to this??

CO_VaporGT_09

If you use the PFC01s for the track (my understanding is they're about the DTC 60/70 class), what do you run on the street?

I think I might try this street/track rotor/pad combo thing, have to swap out this weekend (first track day 3/19 if the weather holds!). The front rotors are much easier than the rears, you have to fuss with the parking brake in back.

Anyone have experience with the Steeda 13" rear rotor upgrade? Was looking into it once, then found out you have to remove the axles to install, thought that was more trouble than it was worth at the time. Maybe if a Torsen ever goes in the pumpkin that'd be a different story...