MrBonus

I run whatever is cheap on the street. Porsche pads are easy to pull (pop out retaining clip, yank pads with screwdrivers) so the only time I'm on the street with PFCs is driving to and from the track. The noise they make when cold is horrid enough to wake the dead and the dust can do damage to your paint so leaving them in for an extended period of time is an exercise in frustration.

PACETTR

Those look familiar somehow

Stinger1982

just an FYI because people are talking about it, you CAN NOT put a fixed caliper (aka Brembo style) on the rear. (cant with the 8,8 solid axle).
IRS can have fixed on the back no problem but not solid axle

CO_VaporGT_09

You should see my front bumper

06GT

oh jesus MrBonus in here...

also he has one of the $240 pad-spreaders, maybe he can comment on its effectiveness lol

06GT

AP Racing has a kit for this, friend's GT500 track car has them. He also noted that it was one of the biggest wastes of money ever, since he didn't feel any performance difference after installing them (duh).

It's not worth that kind of scratch just to have drop-ins on the rear.

Stinger1982

Say again?
How does it deal with pad knock back?!?!?!?!???!?!?!!?!??

MrBonus

Oh, hello there. It's easier to use than most home made solutions. Just stick it in the caliper, give it a couple of firm squeezes, and slide your new pads in there.

PACETTR

06GT

Don't ask me man--I don't have it installed!

I never gave it any real thought since every competition Mustang to come from Ford still has the stock rear calipers--meaning they're good enough for me.

JScottGT

I wanted to chime in quickly on what Shaun eluded to... I will NEVER put EBC crap on my car ever again, nor will I ever recommend it to anyone based on the results I had with their Yellowstuff pads.

At the time, this was their recommended track compound. I am running a (heavily) modified SN95 that weighs about 3700 with me in it. At the time I was used to using Hawk HP+ pads on the front and rear of the car. I never really had any issues with those pads ever, I ran them so often that I knew exactly what to expect of them, and when they were starting to get a little too hot, I was able to feel it in the pedal. I was trying the EBC pads based on reviews I had read that related their performance similar to the HP+, and at about 30% less cost. I bed them in on the street, just like I usually did with the HP+ and they worked great on the street, as well as getting to the track. On track, they didn't quite have the initial bite that the hawks gave, but were working decently at slowing the car down. About half way thru my second session out for the day, I started to notice the brakes wanted to lock a bit as I trail-braked into the corner. When I got to the end of the back straight (Waterford Hills) I went for the brakes at my usual brake point, and my pedal was a brick! I had absolutely no braking force (well except the measly bit the rears give me) and I had to take the car off. The end of the back straight at Waterford is not all that long, but I was still carrying about 90 mph of speed when I went off. The gravel trap did it's job of catching my car and getting it stopped.

After getting towed out of the gravel, I drove it back to the pits to inspect the pads. The compound was crumbling off the backing plate, and the pad practically fell apart when I pulled it out. Normally when you take a pad beyond its designed heat range, it gets spongy... this was a TOTAL PAD FAILURE... No brake force was applied to the rotors because the compound disintegrated. All of this with one, maybe two corners of "warning." And that warning was nothing like I had ever experienced before.

Now I don't mess around when it comes to brakes, and I am using the hawk DTC60 pads on the front, and HP+ on the rear and using ATE superblue brake fluid.

I will tell anyone that is looking to track their car their brake system is the first, and most important part of the prep work. Don't figure on "taking it easy." Your safety is paramount, and bringing your car home in the same condition as you arrived to the track is the key to a successful day at the track.

LateApex

Quite a cautionary tale, right there. Definately nothing to play with, methinks.

iDrive

Excellent info! For Autocross, what Hawk, PFC, or Ferodo pad would everyone recommend? No high rotor/pad temperatures. A quick and hard bite. Excellent in cooler weather and on cold rotors. Very little noise and minimal dusting. Cost is not a consideration.

Dave

JScottGT

For AutoX, Hawk HP+ would work great. They have a real fast initial bite. They still need to come up to temp to work at their best, but 2-3 corners into an autoX and they will be working just fine. Just make sure to bed them into the rotors properly before running them.

iDrive

Thanks! on my list to order.

Dave

CO_VaporGT_09

How long ago was this that your incident happened? I've heard similar stories on EBC before, and they were all nearly a decade ago. I don't mean to discount your experience (and I'd probably say the same about them at this point after something like that) but someone in NASA RM had essentially the same thing happen to some DTCs, had taken them beyond their heat range. Didn't get to the point he went off track, but close.



My understanding is EBC has changed quite a bit in the last ten years or so, and these experiences are a thing of the past.

But I'll let you know if I find out differently
Just hoping I'm not being TOO naive here (just a little)

JScottGT

This happened to me in 2009

Overboost

Has anyone priced out replacement rotors for the BBP/Boss fronts? Also, I was looking for the part numbers & pricing for PFC-01s. I just keep adding stuff to the list of track prep items...

cloud9

I have a set of DBA 5000 two-piece that I was running on my GT500. I pulled them and put on a new set of rings that I had cryo-treated. They are spendy, and this is the first set I tried cryo-treating. I've heard mixed reviews on how much it extends the life. I will report back after a few days of use. The non cryo treated set of rings lasted me all of last season which was about 13 track days. They were heat checked badly with just minor surface cracks, but not cracked through yet. I'm not sure how much they had left in them, but since I had new rings I wanted to start fresh with the Boss. They're $900 for a set of rotors and about $600 for a set of new rings. The cryo was $75 per ring.


The other thing I didn't mention is the weight. The reason the two-piece rotors cost so much more is they typically weigh a lot less than the factory rotors. In this case, the DBA 5000s weight 20lbs versus the 28 lb stockers, removing 16 lbs of unsprung rotating weight. Removing unsprung rotating weight has the most benefit of any weight reduction mod.

CO_VaporGT_09

Now ya got me leary...

Steeda makes some slotted ones:

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-s...0-mustang.html



Or check out Strano's site:
http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...204&ModelID=35

http://www.stranoparts.com/showimage...&w=315&s=1&a=1



And I think these are the PFCs (for the GT500, but I believe the Brembos didn't change for the 2011 or Boss):

http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/...roducts_id=167