Overboost

I was just going to get a set of OEM blanks, not the slotted ones. This is the first real season I'll be going to the track. I came from some autocrossing in my Speed6, but want to take it to the next level. Right now, I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row to make sure I can do this safely and comfortably.

CO_VaporGT_09

Those I've not seen anywhere except TireRack:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...oModClar=Coupe



I think they're correct, for the GT500, but it's definitely different than the GT:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...oModClar=Coupe


But there's not a listing for the 2011 GT w/ Brembo, so you'd have to call and ask.

CO_VaporGT_09

I saw a guy with a GT500 (with way too much money into it -- I was lapping him on our short roval at PPIR) with these on the rear:



http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...RD&model=GT500

And the 6 pistons on the front:



http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...&b=AP%20Racing

cloud9

I've never been to PPIR

StillIntense

Just goes to show that it's more about the driver than the car! I always say that my track car is still better than the driver......

Overboost

Thanks. I'll have to stop at a dealer too for prices and part #'s.

fuhrius

here's a rhetorical question:

with a reputation as bad as EBC's and so many good options out there, why would someone use them because they're on sale or less expensive? given the importance of job they do and the value of the investment they protect (you, and your car)...

ok, on PFC's, eveyone's talking about the 01 compound...and it really is a track-only pad...but has anyone run the 97 compound on their mustang? I mention these because I've been using them, very successfully, on a 10-day-a-year track car (porsche boxster) and leave them on year round. I drive 3-4k miles of street a year with them and do get a little noise with them...but just a little, and never any degradation in braking performance on the street. one of the reasons I chose them is for their reputation of being kind to rotors...which they've been...and pad life has been fantastic. oh, and they're great at the track...good initial bite and really 'linear' feel.

here's PFC' description of them:

This compound has been a favorite of sportscar endurance racing although it's initial development was through CART Champ Cars. 97 compounds have won races in CART, ALMS, Grand Am, and ASA. It is also a preferred pad for touring car and rally. Higher bite than 90 compound with slightly higher torque. Great modulation, very flat torque curve with enhanced release characteristics. 97 compounds are very easy on the discs, with very low wear. This compound is becoming a favorite of driving schools because it shares similar characteristics as 90 compounds but even less wear. Highly recommended as a general-purpose pad for all venues. (When out, refer to 01)
97 Recommended Applications:Recommended for applications that demand excellent wear and modulation.NASCAR Short Track and Road Course RearNASCAR Speedway and Intermediate RearAll Oval Track Race series RearEndurance GTSCCA RacingPorsche/BMW Club RacingTrack Day and Driver Education events

LateApex

Supposedly PFC has discontinued the 97's. Too bad, too, always heard it was a decent multi-purpose pad - as decent as a multi-purpose pad can be, at any rate.

Stinger1982

if they fit a GT-500 they fit a brembo GT

CO_VaporGT_09

I figured as much given your location, but did think twice briefly about saying anything as I couldn't remember if it was blue or black, but did have white stripes. Don't wanna step on any toes there

That's what I figured, didn't think they made any changes.

So...

I measured the one piece and two piece rotors, the one piece are 23.5lbs (1mm surface already gone), and the two piece are 18lbs. So 5lb weight saving, not bad, probably makes up for the caliper and bracket weight, maybe even more. These are the StopTech 14", I'd guess the Brembos would be similar. Curious if they are swappable?

Went ahead and bought a set of the Bluestuff all around, the StopTech ST40/Roush/Saleen 14" BBK in front, and the stock rears. I know, taking my own life in my hands, they're the equivalent of sticking a grenade in there and all.
But, I'm still in learning mode, so am not going 'all-out' yet, but maybe next year in the time trials class. Think I'll try Nitto's NT05 instead of the NT01 for the same reason, $50 cheaper per tire. Anyhow...

Just finished first road course event yesterday, at our fastest track High Plains Raceway, 1/2 mile back straight with top speed about 120mph for me (the Z06's are pushing 150 or so). The Bluestuff did quite well overall, though I was a bit timid to push them too hard because of everyone's comments on here. Did push harder towards the end of the weekend and they just kept on biting. Similar to the Yellows, they have a bit of a 'grinding' sensation at lower speeds (<60mph) not pulsation or judder, but a loudness and roughness that regular street pads don't have. No loss of braking torque or bite, it's just a bit odd, and I'm not familiar enough with the other brands to know if it's just a characteristic of aggressive pads or not, or typical after some track usage

Unlike the yellows, they didn't give up any bite as they got hotter, the Yellows started to fade last summer at the end of the 20 minute sessions.
I did install some Kenny Brown brake ducts but couldn't get the hoses to attach correctly, so they came loose and I pulled them early on Saturday. Not sure if they just acted as dust shields or as actual ducts without the hoses, but need to find a way to get the hoses to stay on there (I was too pressed for time this weekend)



The Blues did okay on the drive home as well, no problems with slowing, no particular squeaking, but it was very little braking on the highway. I removed the front pads and discs just now, and they look great, very little wear. Put the Yellow pads and one piece rotors back on as the Blues were dusting alot, though very easy to dust off (paper towel did fine).

So there ya go.

Scruffy281

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-1...d-mustang.html

06GT

Want to upset your brake bias, and lock yourself into buying rear rotors only from Steeda? We have a deal for you!

MrBonus

Is the stock master cylinder even designed to be up to the task for a set up like that?

06GT

Not sure about the 10+ cars, but the 05-09 cars don't have an issue with it. But fellow racers that have installed this kit have said it doesn't buy you anything on the track. And again, limited rotor sourcing.

CO_VaporGT_09

I was wondering about that, good to hear an opinion on it. I always seem to go through rear pads much quicker than front...

And that Steeda kit uses the OEM caliper, just mounted a bit further out to clear the 13" setup. But it does require you to remove the axles for changing to the Steeda bracket.

LateApex

Upgrading rear brakes besides just using dedicated track pads and rotors (I like my Napa blanks), and of course SS lines and DOT 4 fluid, will basically do nothing for you. Unless you go with an electronically controlled 4-wheel setup, where you can do fine adjustment to brake bias. I have seen a lot of amateur racers try and solve this "problem" with expensive as hell rear brake kits, but if they make any difference, it somehow is never reflected in their lap times :-)

Scruffy281

Biggest gain from a setup like this is basically a cooler rotor. I've heard reports of the BOSS rears smoking after some track time already.

Definitely not a necessity for the rear however.

MrBonus

It's not uncommon for rotors to generate some smoke after a hot lapping session. My rotors often had a wisp of smoke on my Evo during summer HPDEs after coming off the track.

GT_350

I don't want this to sound like a lecture but guys that have tracked their cars will have similar opinions, so please read and offer up yours.

I don’t think anyone needs to do anything to the rear brakes; aside from dedicated track rotors and pads.

If I remember fluid dynamics correctly when you install a bigger caliper (if has a greater internal volume of fluid) then you are messing with the brake bias.

The brake “system” is sized to work together.

On the FR500S you got the following parts;

- Brake Hoses FR500S M-2078-A
- Brake Booster 2008 Mustang Shelby GT500 7R3Z-2005-A
- Master Cylinder 2008 Mustang Shelby GT500 6R3Z-2140-AA
- ABS Module M-2353-A
- Rear Caliper 2008 Mustang Shelby GT500 7R3Z-2552-A RH
7R3Z-2553-A LH
- Rear Rotor 2008 Mustang 5R3Z-2C026-AA
- Front Brake Kit FR500S M-2300-J (complete kit w/4pc brake lines)
- Front Brake Caliper FR500S M-2320-D
- Front Brake Rotor FR500S M-1125-D
- Front Brake Hat FR500S M-1125-E
- Front Brake Pads FR500S M-2100-R

Now the only difference with the rear caliper from the GT is that it is painted black.

The booster/master cylinder is designed to move/compress a specific amount of fluid if you install a component that requires more fluid the system has to compress that increase in volume and then you get problems…..you won’t get the same “clamping” force at the rotors and the brake pedal may feel squishy or soft.

If you only install a rotor that has more swept face (larger) and a larger pad size the clamping force of the system decreases a bit. If a vendor says its designed to improve........he wants you to improve the weight of his wallet......please contiune to read......

In defense of the stock rear brakes this I submit the FR500C/FR500S and the Boss 302R/Boss302S they all use the same rear caliper/rotor as the Mustang GT and the GT500. And our Boss 302’s

The FR500C won three Grand Am Championships in five years of campaigning that car.

So what can be done with to increase the systems effectiveness?

1. Brake Cooling Ducts, braided stainless steel brake lines and brake fluid that has a high boiling point; bleed your brakes before a track day, at the end of track day and even check the color of the fluid at the caliper during the day between sessions to make sure you didn’t over heat/boil the fluid.

2. Dedicated rotors for the track!
This will prevent cross contamination of the rotors, e.i. you use a pad from manufacturer “A” for the street and Manufacturer “B” for the track. Well now you have different pad compounds and your rotors get contaminated.

Your braking system is thrown out of whack and you could experience “ice” mode and that is bad because it decreases your brake systems effectiveness and this could lead to not being able to stop…….

3. Now this is a bit more expensive but look at buying two piece rotors for the front; cons: expensive upfront and expensive when you replace the rotors ( IMO, you don’t need “cross drilled” rotors with today’s pads), pros less rotating mass, less prone to crack.

4. Drive the car around the paddock for a few minutes to cool the rotors. Don't use your parking brake at the track after a session you will hold the heat in one place and you increase the chance of cracking a rotor. Push or pull the car enough to rotate the rotor about half the distance from the calipers so the heat doesn’t stay in one place.....after it's been sitting for a few minutes.

5. Install the Front Brake Kit FR500S M-2300-J (complete kit w/4pc brake lines) or a similar sized caliper, sized to work with the stock booster/master cylinder, STOPTECH might even be a better idea but that’s a different subject…….

CO_VaporGT_09

Thanks for the input! Believe those points were all mentioned before in the thread, but you summed it up nicely

FWIW, the clamping force of the rear caliper, if the caliper isn't switched out (ie stock), won't change with a larger disc. Assuming the pad is also the same (would have to be if it's the same caliper) not even the pressure (force/unit area) would change. The MASS and RADIATIVE AREA of the increased size rear rotor would give it greater resistance against fading. That's the only real advantage of the Steeda setup (or a similar one like the big Baer rear brake kit). The other advantage (bit greater TORQUE from the increased radius at which the clamping force is applied) does increase the decelerative ability of that brake, but what the guys here are saying is too much of the braking is then taken over by the rears, upsetting the overall brake balance (too much rear brake bias, or even earlier lockup, can lead to some pretty bad oversteer situations).

The AP setup or similar that replaces the rear caliper, pad, and rotor would be subject to what you mentioned, or the SSBC system (I think it's a single piston system, though).