adam81

This is correct. I talked to Bruce about it on another site. I believe the price is right too!

roketman

Just found out that I will have a Q1 Boss.L.S. I will find out more this coming week.
I am chopping at the bit.Buy the way what is the best camber plates to get? I sold mine with the car.

2012YellowBoss

Seems most people went with the MM's. I am very happy with them myself.

Further

I have read and tried to absorb as much as I can from this thread. Thanks to all that have posted.

It seems the factory pads/rotors become a hazard, when pushing the car in hotter conditions. I understand that the race pads are probably best mated to different rotors, but, for now, I am willing to stick with the stock rotors. My question is, can I use the PFC 01/97 pads with my stock rotors? I know there are issues switching out pads, just not sure how critical it is. Also, do those pads require warming before optimal use, like all race pads? or would they be ok for the street as I drive my Boss about 30%, daily. I am willing to switch pads for events, but it would be easier to switch and stay. Perhaps just replacing the stock pads or going with a heavier duty pad like Hawk plus would be most appropriate.

I recently spoke with a fella at the track attack race shop. I bring this up b/c the guys a Miller and track attack used to use this setup, but have abandoned them for a new front brake setup, I believe the Fr500 brakes. They have a lot of leftover PFC 01 pads and will let them go for cheap. Interestingly, they switched the radiators for the FR500 radiator as well. I believe he also said there were really no suspension mods, such as stiffer bars, or camber plates, just a switch over to the LS wheels. The constant abuse on their vehicles has required serious upgrades to cooling and brake components. If this is inaccurate, please correct me.

Don't think I am underestimating the need for adequate brakes. I'm just working my way up, corresponding to my driving ability. My next event is at VIR in 3 weeks and I've got 50% or better pads left but want to get some new pads, not only for an upgrade, but as a reserve. I've got the trans scoop, cooling kit, and DOT 4 in place. Brakes and tires(wheels) will probably be next, then a 4 point bar.

ShaneM

well i bled my brakes today, pedal feel is better now, but with two track days and some street driving i'd be surprised if my HP+ pads have another track day in them. not at all happy with how they lasted, especially considering the level of fade i had on track.

i have HP+ in the rear too and they look new still. the fronts are only about 1/8 of an inch or so from the metal squealer things. a friend runs those pads on his caddy V and gets a long, long time out of them one or two sets a year apparently.

any reason i cant just pick up some fronts of a different type like the PFC01 or carbotechs for the track and then run the hawk HP+ rear? i think im just going to grab a cheap set of pads from autozone or something and run those on the front for the street. the squeal that the HP+ fronts make is horrendous anyway and i don't street race.

i also ordered the motive brake bleeder and brembo lcf 600 fluid. the mityvac i bought sucks big time. i read a lot of reviews on brake fluid, apparently only the brembo fluid and that $80 a bottle stuff someone recommended they run in f1 have little compressability. i read one Porsche review of motul where they talked about the brakes not fading, but the pedal not engaging hte brakes until a half in or so lower in the travel when the fluid was hot. a swap to brembo fluid stopped that pedal sink issue. the brembo was only a few bucks more per bottle than motul so i went with it. i ordered six 500ml bottles, iirc we need 3.5 so ill have a couple left.

2012YellowBoss

Hawk plus are less of an aggressive "race" pad the the PFC 01. It is my understanding that PFC 01 require warm up and work best at a couple of hundred degrees. DD with them might not be the best idea. I understand the 97's are OK for the street and since you will have them on the rear you will be fine.

Your factory rotors will work fine. However getting a slotted set would be a good idea. You can keep you original rotors in better condition for street use. You will need to bed in the brakes before track days every time you swap the pads, another reason to get another set of track rotors. If you do not have an extra set and your factory rotors do not have grooves in them, swapping the pads then bedding the brakes will work with the same rotors.

You can get a set of Centric rotors 126.61089CSL front/ 126.61087CSL (C is for cyro you do not have to get them cyro treated, just SL at the end) for a good price from Autoanything.

adam81

I have the Maximum Motorsports as well. They are sold at a reasonable price and seem to offer the most adjustability.

adam81

We met up in October at VIR with Chin on your first day. Glad to see your're still after it! Honestly when pushed hard the factory pads become hazardous after a few laps on track whether it is cold outside or hot. Definitely do not run these on the track. The stock rotors are fine to run on the track. However you should have a dedicted street pad/rotor setup and a dedicated track pad/rotor setup. Anything less is asking for big trouble. Also if there is an issue at the track with a cracked rotor or pads that burn down to nothing and you drove to the track you want to have back ups to get home.

Switching out pads and rotors is VERY easy. I recommend you learn how to do this if you don't know already. If I was going to be there I would show you how. You will get faster and faster and before you know it you are faster than what your brakes can keep up with and then..........

Seriously you should just keep your current setup for the street and go out and buy some rotors (whatever you want) and an actual race pad.

I do not recommend Hawk HP+ for a track or race pad. Again get dedictated setups.

adam81

You shouldn't be surprised..... You have been told, as have many others, those are NOT pads to use on the track.

DO NOT DO THIS!!! I had DTC70 fronts and HP+ rears (Hawk said this was okay??? ) and had horrible brake bias. The car nosed dived super hard and the whole rear end would vibrate very violently from the ABS kicking off and the back end getting VERY light. The two compounds are so different that they do not work together.

ShaneM

lol, i had those pads in for a while and needed something after roasting the shockers at the track one day so i was in a pinch and had to take what i could get. i haven't asked this and i haven't seen it asked so if it has been sorry.

how many days are you guys getting out of your track pads of any brand? right now im willing to give up a bit of brake performance for longevity.

Further

Thanks for the responses.

I think I am going to get get some replacements street pads as reserve to the present stock pads and stick with that with for now, but I am putting new rotors/pads as a priority for my next purchase. Changing the pads seems pretty easy after viewing some how-to vids on YT, and doing rotors and pads seems doable but would take some practice. I am just not too keen on switching pads, back and forth, for events.

I realize that I can't push things too far. My last instructor suggesting pumping the brakes gently before some of the severe braking zones, just to make sure they were still there.

Adam, yeah we met there. You should come to the next Chin event there in March. Myself and a nice fella with a Black LS from TN will be there.

adam81

Interesting. You said you were dissatisfied with the life of the HP+ for the street in this thread, that is what I responded to. Also this isn't what you posted at BMO.... You said you got the HP+ so you could run a pad both on the street and track.

http://bossmustangsonline.com/boss-3...7732/#msg17732

Also right below that. Cloud9 mentioned the HP+ as not a track pad. I have mentioned it to you on this forum as well when you were talking about your brake issues in your tire thread, Bridgestone s-04....

Other brake pad companies do recommend, as well as individuals, different front and rear compounds. However these are typically only one unit apart. Example level 10 front level 9 rear or whatever. The problem arises when you have a BIG jump in compound types that perform drastically different.

Further

I believe the Trackattack cars are running stock backs and a high performance front brake system, but I may have gotten confused after speaking with the race shop dude. I'm still new to this game.

adam81

I wish I could make it but can't.

Again street pads or an in-between pad is a BAD IDEA. They are not designed to take that abuse. I don't know how else to say this. Go out and buy some rotors and track pads. There really is no other option...

cloud9

I have the Maximum Motorports c/c plates like Scott referenced. They're very well made.

ShaneM

i thought they were wearing very well until i looked at them yesterday with the wheels off. i said fade in that post too btw, not pad life. anyway, what i could get quickly that people at my track recommended were all hawk, those were the best pad in that situation of not being able to drive the car with the stock pads gone. At any rate i have heard your recommendations and those of others and realize they weren't the best choice now nothing like hindsight and $200 to learn a lesson.

SD GT

Carbotech says their entire pad line is compatible.
Last spring on my '10 GT, I ran 1531 "Bobcats" for street and switched to XP10/XP8 for track. Since it was my first 4 track days, I was still learning, and not pushing real hard, and they worked fine. A guy who tracks a '10 GT does the same with Carbotech pads with great results, and he's tracked various vehicles over the years, so not a new guy like me.
If you switch to Carbotech, they'll tell you to either do a light turn on the rotors, or put a 80 to 120 grit emery cloth disc on your angle grinder and remove the old transfer layer. That's what I did.
On the Boss, I'm running XP10/XP8 for street and track. XP10 suck on the street - they squeal like a stuck pig from about 10 mph to the stop. Car stops fine, but the squeal drives me nuts.
When the snow melts, I'll clean up the front rotors and put factory pads on for street. Track will be pad/rotor swap.

Carbotech told me high quality rotors won't stop a car faster. They most likely last longer because they may be made out of higher quality steel, but he said stopping distance won't be better. That's why I picked up a front set of Raybestos from CJ Pony last month for $55 each. By the end of the summer, I'll know what is most cost effective.

Lots of us are still learning (I'm one of them), so posting what we've tried helps everyone decide what works for them.

adam81

I went through quite the "learning curve" with pads as well..... Good things were said about Hawk in general, but their recommendations were down right crap. Now the DTC 70 f 60 r I have now worked great. Except my fronts lasted like 2.5 track days. Because of this I am moving on. Next I am going to try Carbotechs.

SD GT

Adam81,
Call Carbotech (early in the morning is best) and get their pad recommendation. If you've been tracking a while, XP12/XP10 may be an option also. But Rocketman posts that he uses XP20/XP16.
They are helpful on the phone. And they offer pre-bedding the pads for ~$15, so I did that with my current set.
Don't know how long they last, because I upgraded cars mid-summer last year.
They carry a few brake fluid brands too.

ShaneM

i talked with Mike Jr over at Carbotech and he gave me some recommendations that sounds like it will work out well.

He recommended the RP2 enduro pad for front because they are very similar to the XP10, but will have a longer pad life. He suggest the XP8 rears for my and run them on the street as well. On the street for the fronts he suggested the bobcat pads. this way i can drive up on nice quiet and long lasting street pads, then pop the wheels off and swap to the RP2 pads for the track without any issues and use the same rotors.

we did have a bit of confusion on what XP8 would go on the rear of the boss though, can any of you running them confirm part numbers that fit the boss rears:


CT1082-XP8- ('11 version rear on GT500, KR and BOSS)

or

CT1562-XP8- ('12 version rear on GT500, KR ) Is this what is on the '12 BOSS as well?