Brake upgrades for the track after reviews
#161
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I agree with all this from my experience. I do run the 70/60 combo and if you think the 60s up front stop hard, try the 70s! They are amazing as long as you're using R-compound tires. On streets I'm sure you'd be engaging ABS regularly. I rarely if ever have had ABS go off, but man do they stop the car! The only downside is you have to increase your rotor budget because they do eat them up.
Those DTC70s are pricey, too.
#162
I swear, this will be close to the last time I say - RAYBESTOS (ST41/ST43)!! Stop every bit as good as the DTC 70/60, but less money and EASIER on the rotors.
#164
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#165
If I try anything other than Hawk DTC70s or 60s for the front, it's going to be PFC01s.
#167
I had a hard time switching to Raybesto's due to the affiliation to NASCAR (not a fan at all), and we all know NASCAR doesn't equal Braking..
Oh yeah, a $40 rebate on the ST41 & 43's.
Last edited by meanmud; 5/19/11 at 11:57 AM.
#168
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Need a little help
I am installing my StopTech SS barke line on a Sunday when no one is around to answer questions. Typical for me!
I've done this before on my SN95 but I have a couple of questions
The Brass "L" bracket seems to be self evident where it installs on the car where the old one came out. The little brsss screw threads into the "L" bracket. I think the black/Silver "G" shaped part some how fastens to the "L" bracket to hold the brake line secure but it really doesen't seem to reach properly. Any one who has done this have a suggestion?
Also, the three black parts in the middle, (2) rubber gromets about 3/8" long/tall??? The other looks like a plug of some sort, the hole you see does not go all the way through. I have no idea what to do with these. Is it possible this kit is used on other models that need these parts?
Any help/suggestions is appreciate!
I've done this before on my SN95 but I have a couple of questions
The Brass "L" bracket seems to be self evident where it installs on the car where the old one came out. The little brsss screw threads into the "L" bracket. I think the black/Silver "G" shaped part some how fastens to the "L" bracket to hold the brake line secure but it really doesen't seem to reach properly. Any one who has done this have a suggestion?
Also, the three black parts in the middle, (2) rubber gromets about 3/8" long/tall??? The other looks like a plug of some sort, the hole you see does not go all the way through. I have no idea what to do with these. Is it possible this kit is used on other models that need these parts?
Any help/suggestions is appreciate!
#169
No clue about the two rubber grommets. The rubber-padded clip probably screws into the brass "L" bracket to hold the line steady in some way where it connects to the factory hardline.
One of those screws is to attach the middle thing to the strut body
One of those screws is to attach the middle thing to the strut body
#170
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The black plug is to put into the old brake line to keep Brake fluid from running out. I still don't know what the 2 black rubber spacers/ gromets are for.
The black and silver bracket is used to attach the top of the brake line to the L bracket. The factory L bracket (attachemnt point) sticks out away from the car about 1 inch further than the after market. You then must force the rigid barke line closer to the wheel well wall. Its a bit disconcerting but it did reach, finally.
I had to cut away a bit of the black plastic shroud, only on the drivers side. That was no problem.
The hardest part was that the sliver bracket with the black sleeve was miss-shapen. When you squeezed it closed around the end of the brake line, the holes did no line up. I had to pull it off and wrestle with it several times before it lined up properly.
Now I just have to bleed the brakes. Everyone is gone at my house today and I bleed them the old fashon way, so I'm sutck for the moment.
The black and silver bracket is used to attach the top of the brake line to the L bracket. The factory L bracket (attachemnt point) sticks out away from the car about 1 inch further than the after market. You then must force the rigid barke line closer to the wheel well wall. Its a bit disconcerting but it did reach, finally.
I had to cut away a bit of the black plastic shroud, only on the drivers side. That was no problem.
The hardest part was that the sliver bracket with the black sleeve was miss-shapen. When you squeezed it closed around the end of the brake line, the holes did no line up. I had to pull it off and wrestle with it several times before it lined up properly.
Now I just have to bleed the brakes. Everyone is gone at my house today and I bleed them the old fashon way, so I'm sutck for the moment.
#171
Come on man, you shoulda bought a set of speedbleeders!
#173
For anyone that would like to track the Boss just for fun like me I highly recommend the Hawk HP plus pads. The factory setup worked well my first time out but then I swapped out pads and rotors so I did not burn up the originals, I am very happy. The HP plus is more responsive then the Brembos on the track without killing rotors quickly and can still be driven on the street since they also stop well cold. You get a little squeal on the street when they are cold but that is a trade off I can live with.
#174
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Hey guys, you need to read the actual directions:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/ma...A_11-11-04.pdf
The rubber pieces are for putting between the brake line and ABS wire, the zip ties are wrapped around one or the other, threaded (both ends of the ziptie) through the rubber grommets, then looped around the other line/wire. It's too keep them slightly separated, though obviously someone did fine without...
Speedbleeders are gold:
http://www.soloperformance.com/Speed...on_p_1266.html
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/ma...A_11-11-04.pdf
The rubber pieces are for putting between the brake line and ABS wire, the zip ties are wrapped around one or the other, threaded (both ends of the ziptie) through the rubber grommets, then looped around the other line/wire. It's too keep them slightly separated, though obviously someone did fine without...
Speedbleeders are gold:
http://www.soloperformance.com/Speed...on_p_1266.html
#175
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I wish I could have found that pictuer on Sunday. I spoke with StopTech today and the told me what they were. But I still would not have installed them correctly with out the picture. I'll change the zip ties next time I take off the wheels. I complained about the lack of instructions with the package as well as online. He said they were currently trying to remidy that.
Hey guys, you need to read the actual directions:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/ma...A_11-11-04.pdf
The rubber pieces are for putting between the brake line and ABS wire, the zip ties are wrapped around one or the other, threaded (both ends of the ziptie) through the rubber grommets, then looped around the other line/wire. It's too keep them slightly separated, though obviously someone did fine without...
Speedbleeders are gold:
http://www.soloperformance.com/Speed...on_p_1266.html
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/ma...A_11-11-04.pdf
The rubber pieces are for putting between the brake line and ABS wire, the zip ties are wrapped around one or the other, threaded (both ends of the ziptie) through the rubber grommets, then looped around the other line/wire. It's too keep them slightly separated, though obviously someone did fine without...
Speedbleeders are gold:
http://www.soloperformance.com/Speed...on_p_1266.html
#176
Bullitt Member
Does anyone know what the difference is between these two SS lines and why are the Phantom ones $100 more? The only thing I see in the description is the PTFE coating on the phantom lines. Do the regular G-Stop lines not have a coating on the outside of the stainless steel? My mountain bike SS lines have a coating on them. Thanks.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...212&ModelID=35
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...=Brembo+Brakes
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...212&ModelID=35
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...=Brembo+Brakes
#177
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Does anyone know what the difference is between these two SS lines and why are the Phantom ones $100 more? The only thing I see in the description is the PTFE coating on the phantom lines. Do the regular G-Stop lines not have a coating on the outside of the stainless steel? My mountain bike SS lines have a coating on them. Thanks.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...212&ModelID=35
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...=Brembo+Brakes
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...212&ModelID=35
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...=Brembo+Brakes
#178
I didn't read through the whole thread as a lot has changed since it first started. What is the current census on a track/street pad? I am looking for something more oriented to the track but won't eat up rotors on the street or make horrible noises. Am I asking too much.....
#179
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Yeah, sorta....
My experience with EBC YellowStuff was okay as a both pad, lasted long enough on the track, not too noisy on the street, not horrible dusting. RedStuff are great on the street (have them on now!), but wore very fast on track, and faded quick. Bluestuff are not too bad on the track, but noisy and dusty on the street, with not the greatest cold bite. The Yellow are the Baby Bear if you're a Goldilocks...
Might be the equal of the Hawk HP Plus?
The new StopTech pads might apply, though the dust from them is horrible.
My experience with EBC YellowStuff was okay as a both pad, lasted long enough on the track, not too noisy on the street, not horrible dusting. RedStuff are great on the street (have them on now!), but wore very fast on track, and faded quick. Bluestuff are not too bad on the track, but noisy and dusty on the street, with not the greatest cold bite. The Yellow are the Baby Bear if you're a Goldilocks...
Might be the equal of the Hawk HP Plus?
The new StopTech pads might apply, though the dust from them is horrible.
#180
Bullitt Member
I called and talked to all three brake pad manufacturers for their suggestions based on the above.
Raybestos ST43 front (~$258) and rear (~$195).
PFC-01 front (~$300) they do not make a rear in the -01 compound would have to go to a PFC-97 compound (~$165)
Hawk DTC-30 front (~$165) and HP+ rear (~$95)
Based on other comments about the Hawk pads, I will start with their offerings and see how they work. I certainly do not see a price advantage to using the PFC-01's as others have offered. Perhaps I am just not looking at the correct supplier. Anyway the DTC-30's have a suggested operating temprature range of 100-1200F which appears to cover both low and high temperature regimes. Hawk rep stated they would be ok for driving to the track just possibly noisy and dusty which I can accept with the purpose application.