5 DOT 0

Does Centric makes Stoptech and Powerslot rotors? If so then are these the same rotors except for the slots and or drilling?

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...nt-Brake-Rotor

http://www.lpiracing.com/126-61089CS...176p169638.htm

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/.../Centric-Parts

http://www.centricparts.com/

Scruffy281

I believe they are the same company.

5 DOT 0

And the Hawk HP Plus pads are a good choice for the track and driving to and from the track? I'm working on placing an order today.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...ont-Brake-Pads

06GT

For a dual purpose pad, id try those or ebc yellowstuff. Have run both and they are both ok for novice or intermediate drivers.

2012YellowBoss

Great info, thanks. The world is easier when you figure out the reason for the numbers behind it.

How have they been holding up? I do not know how much the slotting is really helping??? I was going to get a pair of these for the track but I think I will stick with the cryo in the same now that I know about them. They have the slots as an extra but I am more interested in the cryo treatment, otherwise I would not spend the extra just for the slots.

Autoanything has good pricing but put a call into CJ's to see if they can get them. I have found CJ's has the best price on about 85% of what I look for.

5 DOT 0

So not cryo rotors without slots? I couldn't find any.

2012YellowBoss

Centric makes Powerslot not sure on Stoptech but I think so.

I love them but I do not drive on the street too much. You get some squeal and a lot brake dust. They are a good choice but if you do just an occasional track day with more street driving it would be better to swap them out. However they will work great if you plan to drive the car to the event with the pads on.

Wait until CJ's has a sale, you can get them for about $120 and no shipping costs

I have not found them, no big deal just get the slotted. There are places like Frozenrotors where you can send off NEW sets to but it is not cheap!

OLOABoss

On a heavy car like the Boss I wouldn't run anything less than a full race pad on the track with brake cooling. Do you really want to save a couple of $$ on pads and then be staring at a wall braking from 140+ thinking my brakes are iffy and fading. I would run Hawk DTC 70/60 at a minimum or PFC 01/97

Peter

cloud9

I couldn't agree more. The HP Plus just aren't up to the task of track duty. Fine for autocross, but they won't handle heavy repeated braking at track speeds.

BTW Peter, that avatar cracks me up every time I see it. Is there a good story behind that one?

5 DOT 0

Who said anything about saving a couple of bucks on pads? I live 100 miles from the nearest track and I want to drive there and back safely along with improving braking performance over the stock pads. I already have the front brake duct kit installed along with Dot 4 fluid.

cloud9

You could put the 60s (rears) on at home and swap the fronts at the track. They don't take that long. You could run the fronts to and from the track but they'll squeal and won't have great initial bite when cold if you have to panic stop.

2012YellowBoss

I am no expert but the tracks I run are fast, PBIR, Sebring and Homestead. They have worked fine without any issues even before I put the coolers on. IMHO they are fine for the beginner or intermediate drivers, if anything at first I was harder on them then I should have been by braking too late harder or even too early and staying on them into the turns. It seems as I learned more I was smoother on them.

I do not want to give bad advise but can only pass on what I have done. I may step up to the DTC next year for the track but the HP Plus has worked flawlessly for me this season.

CO_VaporGT_09

I'd second the idea of YellowStuffs being an alternative for dual purpose use, probably less dust than the HP Plus, but can get squealy, not the greatest cold bite, and don't hold up very well to intense heat at the track. They also tend to wear quickly, but are gentle on rotors.

I'm doing the full swap out at MPH again this weekend, the 413 miles is too long on track brakes, and wears the tires a bit. It's a hassle, though, and I think I'll be doing the front swap only in the future, leave the rear swaps for at home (hopefully will stop missing that little tab/slot thing that way, too.)

OLOABoss

I have run race pads (Cobalt XR2, Carbotech XP10, Hawk DTC 70) on the street for over 10,000 miles running the One Lap of America and have never had a stopping issue. IMHO I stand by my statement if you take it to the track don't risk a brake fade incident by running anything less than a full track pad.

Peter

2012YellowBoss

126.61089CSR CSL
Under $300 here - 148.80 ea free shipping

http://www.carpartparadise.com/brake...or-front-right

Autoanything is close at 162.95 with $10 off (the guy on the phone told me he could do 10 off on each) so $305 with free shipping.

P0 Corsa

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5 DOT 0

Who said anything about saving a couple of bucks on pads? I live 100 miles from the nearest track and I want to drive there and back safely along with improving braking performance over the stock pads. I already have the front brake duct kit installed along with Dot 4 fluid.

Rick, your questions on street/track pad combinations, as I am sure you are aware, have surfaced multiple times throughout the 17 pages of this brake thread. I thought about this topic way before taking delivery and read/listened to the earlier post recommendations. I was planning on dedicated track rotors and track pads just like Gary did. Only problem with this process is the 4+ hours of swapping parts prior to each track event.

I went ahead and installed the DBA 5000/4000 "track" rotors on my Boss and talked to Hawk specifically about using a pad to drive to the track just like you plan to do. My concern was to have low temperature brake effectiveness while driving to the track. It is noted the DTC60/70 pads have a recommended operating range of 400°F - 1600°F which is fine for a dedicated track vehicle trailered to the event. But not what I was looking for. I also looked at several other pad brands but found front/rear configurations for our Mustang and street/track operation options significantly limited relative to the various pad compounds offered by Hawk. (and I am in no way connected to the Hawk company)

The Hawk technical specialist recommended their DTC30 pad for the front (recommended operating range 100°F - 1200°F) and the HP+ for the rear pads (recommended operating range 100°F - 800°F). I felt the slight 400°F compromise on the high end temperature range was an equitable tradeoff to have street temperature drive capacity. Besides I have front rotor cooling ducts which “should” help keep rotor/pad temperatures lower than without forced convection.

I have used this pad combination for about 2K miles of street driving and track events at long course track events (ie high straightaway speeds) like Miller (4.5 mile full track) and MPH (2.15 mile). The pads and braking system has performed flawlessly throughout both types of driving and street braking is absolutely uncompromised. Note this is with the OE supplied DOT3 fluid as well which will be upgraded to DOT4 next season.

DBA rotors come OE supplied with Thermo-graphic Temperature Monitoring paint strips which indicate rotor temperatures above three conditions, 856°F, 1022°F and 1166°F. The front rotors after the above tracking still have not turned the lowest temperature paint stripe (856°F) indicating relatively low operating temps and certainly within the temperature recommendations of the DTC30 pads. (or there is room for me to be more driving aggressive) The (uncooled) rear brakes are just achieving a temperature turn of the 856°F stripe and thus are at the upper limits of the HP+ operating range. I have not disassembled the rear pads for a look but pad thickness is still fine and system braking effectiveness remains excellent. Never any fade and always a plentiful amount of speed reduction at any location on the track.

Hope these results might help guide you to your ultimate pad selection.

CO_VaporGT_09

Very good info. I think alot of this has to do with your experience level and braking demands on track. There is no doubt the DTC30 is not Hawk's top pad, same with the HP Plus, so ultimately if you're trying to win your local region/class top spot, they're not the best choice. But if you're simply in learning or playing mode, and recognize that fact, then they're a better compromise for dual duty.

I chose EBC simply because they're way cheaper, and I'm not competing with anyone, yet, except myself. The Yellows did great dual duty, just a bit dusty and occasional squeal. The Blues not the best bite cold, but workable if you remember that they're on. The dust and squealing was too annoying for me, so I run reds on the street.

I know upgrading to the full Hawk DTC package next year will provide much better braking performance and bite, but probably will also wear rotors (and pads) more rapidly, and much more costly (twice the price).

The varying opinions you see on this thread are due to the varying levels of experience and expectations of the brakes -- those with decades of track time want the best, but many also have track-dedicated cars. Others are newer and would probably have difficulty modulating a full race pad like the DTC70/60 or PFC combinations in the first place, and happy to have the cheaper and easier to live with less aggressive compounds.

adam81

Run track pads on the track! Street pads are not a viable application for this. If you need to run the race pads in the rear and change the fronts at the tack. It takes about 15 minutes a side.....

I too was recommended by Hawk to run DTC30s and HPP as P0 Corsa was. The front pads lasted a day and a half and the braking bias was completely off. I was having major issues with the rear abs kicking in. I called them and talked to a guy who works on their race team. Basically he told me DTC70 front and DTC60 rears and the other combo was way off....

I would listen to the people that track often and have a lot of experience. I still consider myself a "rookie" and this is what every respected, fast, experienced person has said...

P0 Corsa

Good information Adam and all I can relate to others is my personal experience. Yes there are certainly different levels of driver track expectations and comfort levels as to where you throw out the anchor traveling 130+ mph on the straightaway with a sharp turn looming.

My Hawk pad combination has plenty of pad material remaining after my track sessions and street driving and I have not experienced any level of braking "upsetness" with my OE tire/rim setup. This again can be tied to experience and expectations. I certainly can "grow" into the DTC60/70 package favored by some in this thread when and if I need to. But for now my chosen package works well with my expectations and experience.

And perhaps your track driving is better than your self imposed "rookie" rating.

5 DOT 0

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. Vapor's comment pretty much sums up my situation as this will be the second time I've ever tracked my car. The pads on the cars at MMP felt very good with no fade. I did experience some minor fade on my stock pads two weeks ago at the end of the final session at Thunderhill which is what prompted me to seek better pads. I'm a beginner at this and not looking to set any lap records or do any racing. If I experience any fade with the HP Plus I'll get better pads for my next track session. Nothing says I'm locked into them forever. I did consider the DTC30's but read Adam's comments a couple of weeks ago so that killed them for me.

With all this talk about maximizing braking power for a beginner I'm also surprised some of you haven't moved up to better front brakes like the Brembo Pro kit or six piston Stoptech's.