Cool! My plans are to put forged internals on teh 302, even over bore it to .030 or .040. That's if the block isn't damaged by the bent rods. If it is, I'll get a 87-92 fox engine, since those had forged pistons instead of the cast ones, and then add forged rods to it, or go the 351 route. I like the later idea best. My uncle is going to help me with this rebuild

I have a question for you Dirk. Is it a good idea to go with full floating pins instead of pressed ones? What are the gains/disadvantages of both?

 

To be totally honest with you I am new to the racing engine world and I cant answer that question right now but I did ask that question just now on a racing forum that I am on cuz you got me wondering about that too. I will let you know what they say that way we both can learn something new. I am still a newbie when it comes to racing engines that is why I am having someone else build mine for my Fox.

 

Fine by me Paul should know, but I haven't seen him in a long time, since the 45th to be accurate. Post there and let me know of their answers.

 

Already done. I edited my post and I guess I did it too late.

 

Sounds like a sweet plan!

 

Fox TB swap.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...ttle-body.html

 

Eduardo..... So far 2 people replied to my post about the piston pins and they both said the free floating ones. One said cuz they are better and the other said cuz everyone should have the pleasure of installing spirol- locks. Yeah they are a lil bit smarta--s but they really know their stuff when it comes to engines and producing power. I will keep you updated as more people put their info in.

 

Thanks dude. I've looked around in corral, and found out that pressed pins are a PITA to work with. Some say they're pretty easy, some say they're not, and if put incorrectly, they can seize the engine in no time. Some said that heating the small end of the rod w a torch will do, and if the pin feels a little tight on the piston, it will need a little work done. And even with the torching method, a hydraulic press will be needed to zero in the install, with the proper tool to fit the Ford pins. Post any updates you get

 

Eduardo

I also asked another forum for some answers about which piston pins to go with.

 

 

Update everybody is saying floating pins. So far nobody has said pressed pins at all. So I think it is safe to say floating pins are what to go with

 

Floating pins FTW then! The friction reduction is also welcome.

 

Engine swap kits
http://www.ddautospec.com/products_e...wap.html#jump1
Found this on the fox section here on TMS.

 

For future reference http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/pr...id=437cPath=20

 

351w swap http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...wap/index.html
I found a deal on a 88 351w on the local forums, but I'm carefully thinking if I go that route or not, since it involves some special parts that are by no means inexpensive. I'll keep searching and learning about this engine swap.

 

From what I researched it really isn't worth the hassle unless you plan on getting a lot more cubes out of it. I would stick with the 302 unless you're looking for the wow factor.

 

Do it, i think the most expensive things are 351 swap headers, and a oil pan

 

And the intake manifold, accessory brackets, and on and on. Too much PITA. I'll just fix this thing to put it back on the road and see what I'll do with it, whatever that may be.

 

Turbo FTW!! http://sn95forums.com/index.php/topic,51090.0.html

 

After six months the only update to report is that I got an engine hoist from my uncle and that I threw away all the crap that was on the back yard. I still need to move some things around to place the car in the back and remove the engine (and time to do it). I'll just have to rebuild this thing slowly.