Midwest TMS'ers General Communication Thread
3/15/08, 02:39 PM
#2941
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Join Date: January 9, 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
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You should be able to do Rotorpro drilled and slotted rotors, Centric pads( Don't do Hawk to harsh on the rotors) and Earls SS lines plus Earls speed bleeders for less than those fancy Roush seats you almost bought!!!
Scott
Who cares if you can stop that Stang !..... you just gotta look cool...
3/15/08, 05:48 PM
#2944
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Well, I think I got a good deal on brakes..... I PM'ed rotorpros here and their price for TMS members on 4 rotors plus Centric posi-quiet scorched pads is $300 shipped- seems like a good price! So, I ordered them..... hope to have next week.
Not sure if I'm going to do the brake lines or not......?
Not sure if I'm going to do the brake lines or not......?
3/16/08, 05:33 AM
#2947
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
I picked up some more G2 paint too...... for some reason, I have some chips in several spots on my calipers. Everyone else has had good luck with this stuff...... I guess I'll try it again.
3/16/08, 05:46 AM
#2948
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It will be alot easier to paint them after you pull them from the car. You can remove the old pads and slide the caliper apart which will let you clean and paint them much easier. Just get yourself a little tube of caliper grease to put back on the sliding components when finished.
3/16/08, 07:12 AM
#2952
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The pads are held in place with spring clips on each end of the pads. You can just pry them out of their nest. Save these from the stock pads. You do not get new ones with the Centrics. Also you will need to compress the front caliper piston which you can do with a c-clamp but you will need to buy or rent the tool to do the rear calipers. The piston screws in on them. I just went to Autozone and rented a brake kit. It made it easy.
Last edited by 70MACH1OWNER; 3/16/08 at 07:14 AM.
3/16/08, 10:44 AM
#2954
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Well guy's After much thought I'm going to hold off on installing my shaft ! To much conflicting info, theres not enough R&D gone into the installation on the S197 format and virtually no sound figure on correct pinion angle for a one piece drive shaft for factory ride hight or lowered Stangs! Sure we have the factory set points for the Flat Rock two piece, but the two piece set-up will respond differently to load, RPM and torque factors......
3/16/08, 11:25 AM
#2955
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Well guy's After much thought I'm going to hold off on installing my shaft ! To much conflicting info, theres not enough R&D gone into the installation on the S197 format and virtually no sound figure on correct pinion angle for a one piece drive shaft for factory ride hight or lowered Stangs! Sure we have the factory set points for the Flat Rock two piece, but the two piece set-up will respond differently to load, RPM and torque factors......
Well since I cannot ever resist an opportunity to pick on you than here goes...WUSS!
You know you can fix any pinion angle issue with an adjustable upper control arm. Did you understand my post yesterday about why I am sure when you lower the rear of these cars it will change the pinion angle. It is pure mathematics. If the front of the lower control arm is fixed and the upper control arm is fixed (which they are) and you shortened the spring length between the upper spring mount and the spring mount on the rear end then only one thing will happen. The rear end will rotate from is original angle to a new angle. This I am sure of. And I am also sure that in a stock stang the pinion angle negative at rest. Meaning the pinion flange is pointing down and under hard acceleration it will rotate upward. So if you set your pinion angle to 1-2 degrees to the negative side at rest it will rotate to the postive side when you are getting on it. Basically you will be swinging the pinion angle evenly on each side of horizontal under all possible conditions. How can you make it any better than that?? I was surprised no one had any response to my post about the angle change on lowered cars. But I know it has to change. So bottomline I would suggest you get a adjustable upper control arm, and magnetic angle finder and set your pinion angle to 2 degrees negative and put in that new shaft. This will set your car up as close to the way it came out of the factory as you can get. And for all the problems I had with my pinion flange install for the Spyershaft I can say that I have no vibrations up to 100 mph. 
Best of luck!!Scott
Last edited by 70MACH1OWNER; 3/16/08 at 01:48 PM.
3/16/08, 11:58 AM
#2956
Shelby GT500 Member
Join Date: October 9, 2006
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Well since I can not ever resist an opportunity to pick on you than here goes...WUSS! You know you can fix any pinion angle issue with an adjustable upper control arm. Did you understand my post yesterday about why I am sure when you lower the rear of these cars it will change the pinion angle. It is pure mathematics. If the front of the lower control arm is fixed and the upper control arm is fixed (which they are) and you shortened the spring length between the upper spring mount and the spring mount on the rear end then only one thing will happen. The rear end will rotate from is original angle to a new angle. This I am sure of. And I am also sure that in a stock stang the pinion angle negative at rest. Meaning the pinion flange is pointing down and under hard acceleration it will rotate upward. So if you set your pinion angle to 1-2 degrees to the negative side at rest it will rotate to the postive side when you are getting on it. Basically you will be swinging the pinion angle evenly on each side of horizontal under all possible conditions. How can you make it any better than that?? I was surprised no one had any response to my post about the angle change on lowered cars. But I know it has to change. So bottomline I would suggest you get a adjustable upper control arm, and magnetic angle finder and set your pinion angle to 2 degrees negative and put in that new shaft. This will set your car up as close to the way it came out of the factory as you can get. And for all the problems I had with my pinion flange install for the Spyershaft I can say that I have no vibrations up to 100 mph. Best of luck!!
Scott
You know you can fix any pinion angle issue with an adjustable upper control arm. Did you understand my post yesterday about why I am sure when you lower the rear of these cars it will change the pinion angle. It is pure mathematics. If the front of the lower control arm is fixed and the upper control arm is fixed (which they are) and you shortened the spring length between the upper spring mount and the spring mount on the rear end then only one thing will happen. The rear end will rotate from is original angle to a new angle. This I am sure of. And I am also sure that in a stock stang the pinion angle negative at rest. Meaning the pinion flange is pointing down and under hard acceleration it will rotate upward. So if you set your pinion angle to 1-2 degrees to the negative side at rest it will rotate to the postive side when you are getting on it. Basically you will be swinging the pinion angle evenly on each side of horizontal under all possible conditions. How can you make it any better than that?? I was surprised no one had any response to my post about the angle change on lowered cars. But I know it has to change. So bottomline I would suggest you get a adjustable upper control arm, and magnetic angle finder and set your pinion angle to 2 degrees negative and put in that new shaft. This will set your car up as close to the way it came out of the factory as you can get. And for all the problems I had with my pinion flange install for the Spyershaft I can say that I have no vibrations up to 100 mph. Best of luck!!Scott
I understand the math ! I don't think you can find a post where I SAID the pinion angle didn't change to some degree! As to my my drop of 7/8 of an inch the change was minimal ! yes you are correct I do need to measure my pinion angle as it sits now ! What is your rear ride hight and currant pinion Angle ? It seems to me the verts ride lower in the rear than the coupes do at factory settings! My rear ends sets at 28 5/8'' from floor the the apex of the fender .I realize tire size and pressure will effect the hight to some extent but a over all measurement from you would be interesting! Do you think your still sober enough to find your car and make this mesurement.....
3/16/08, 01:48 PM
#2957
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Gee, brain!.... I understand the math ! I don't think you can find a post where I SAID the pinion angle didn't change to some degree! As to my my drop of 7/8 of an inch the change was minimal ! yes you are correct I do need to measure my pinion angle as it sits now ! What is your rear ride hight and currant pinion Angle ? It seems to me the verts ride lower in the rear than the coupes do at factory settings! My rear ends sets at 28 5/8'' from floor the the apex of the fender .I realize tire size and pressure will effect the hight to some extent but a over all measurement from you would be interesting! Do you think your still sober enough to find your car and make this mesurement.....
I understand the math ! I don't think you can find a post where I SAID the pinion angle didn't change to some degree! As to my my drop of 7/8 of an inch the change was minimal ! yes you are correct I do need to measure my pinion angle as it sits now ! What is your rear ride hight and currant pinion Angle ? It seems to me the verts ride lower in the rear than the coupes do at factory settings! My rear ends sets at 28 5/8'' from floor the the apex of the fender .I realize tire size and pressure will effect the hight to some extent but a over all measurement from you would be interesting! Do you think your still sober enough to find your car and make this mesurement.....Okay when you used the word APEX I could have forgot about the Viagra....
I will go and take a measurement for you. I just went out and measured my car for you and it sits at 29 inches at the APEX of the rear wheel opening. This is with the stock tires and wheels on her...I don't know if this will help you get some nads but I hope so!!! I do not know my current pinion angle but I know it is to the negative side meaning it is pointing down and everything I have read seems to agree with this being the norm out of the factory!! Grow some kawhona's!!!Scott
Last edited by 70MACH1OWNER; 3/16/08 at 02:10 PM.
3/16/08, 03:15 PM
#2958
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Join Date: October 9, 2006
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Okay when you used the word APEX I could have forgot about the Viagra.... I will go and take a measurement for you. I just went out and measured my car for you and it sits at 29 inches at the APEX of the rear wheel opening. This is with the stock tires and wheels on her...I don't know if this will help you get some nads but I hope so!!! I do not know my current pinion angle but I know it is to the negative side meaning it is pointing down and everything I have read seems to agree with this being the norm out of the factory!! Grow some kawhona's!!!
Scott
I will go and take a measurement for you. I just went out and measured my car for you and it sits at 29 inches at the APEX of the rear wheel opening. This is with the stock tires and wheels on her...I don't know if this will help you get some nads but I hope so!!! I do not know my current pinion angle but I know it is to the negative side meaning it is pointing down and everything I have read seems to agree with this being the norm out of the factory!! Grow some kawhona's!!!Scott
............I am going to BORROW a magnetic angle finder from work and check!.....
3/16/08, 03:45 PM
#2960
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Thread Starter