Bold Moves Mustang Club of Tulsa
#601
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Also... interesting info on the windage tray. I didn't know that. Can you just send it back???
#602
No, the sending unit is down by the oil filter. Everything that I have read suggests that you should install the new sending unit when you change the oil to prevent oil from leaking out. See, to use both the aftermarket and the factory sending units you have to install a line out from the old location of the sending unit then tee the line for the new sending unit and the old sending unit. You then zip tie the line to something (seems most do it to their CAI shields). This apparently is the only way to be able to use both units. Don't worry, I have the entire write up on it.
As to the water temp, we need to tap the freeze plug on the driver's side of the engine. I have to buy a metric adapter for the sending unit to do that.
Overall it doesn't sound too bad, but I have never done much wiring on new cars, just classic mustangs.
I am trying to send the windage tray back and exchange it for something else. I don't have a receipt since it was a gift.
The engine comes from the factory with a windage tray. It looks similar to the one I bought, although the new one is probably more efficient but not what was paid for it.
#603
Interesting on the windage tray.....
I have a little experience with gauge wiring but like you Jeff it was on some older fox mustangs. I remember having done a couple that had to be wired to take the mechanical signal and turn it into an electrical current by way of a new sending type unit that could measure the mechanical pressure or temperature and convert that pressure or temp to voltage. But as I recall the setup was pretty simple. as long as your gauges are electric and not mechanical which requires running lines into your passenger compartment rather than just wires.
I have a little experience with gauge wiring but like you Jeff it was on some older fox mustangs. I remember having done a couple that had to be wired to take the mechanical signal and turn it into an electrical current by way of a new sending type unit that could measure the mechanical pressure or temperature and convert that pressure or temp to voltage. But as I recall the setup was pretty simple. as long as your gauges are electric and not mechanical which requires running lines into your passenger compartment rather than just wires.
#604
So about this BHF mechanic issue.......
#605
#606
Yeah I would think there should be someone there that could do the work. I know most mechanics don't make a huge amount of income so a an extra hundred or two should be good.
#607
I finally got my vanity tag from the OTC. I will be forever know as DBLDARE.
#608
I guess all the other cool ones that I submitted were already taken.
#609
#610
So after much debate, I have decided to wait on headers. I am instead going to cut the cans off and go with either the FRPP x-pipe or Brenspeed's h-pipe. I am also going to install an aluminum driveshaft. The one Tillman is talking about in the forums is the one I am going to order. Should be easy install. I decided I would lighten the load and let the engine run more efficiently. What do you all think?
#611
Well many many years back I was going to get a tag that read IDAREU but as soon as I was going to send it in here it is on the back of a MM&FF on the new at the time 93 GT. So I figure Ill do a double dare instead. My motto has sortov been "i'll try anything once and twice if it hurt" So in short I guess it's about double daring someone to try me. Of course I had several others that I would perhaps liked more but you get what you get.
I have also been thinking about the aluminum driveshaft. How much is the one that you are thinking about?
I have also been thinking about the aluminum driveshaft. How much is the one that you are thinking about?
#612
Well many many years back I was going to get a tag that read IDAREU but as soon as I was going to send it in here it is on the back of a MM&FF on the new at the time 93 GT. So I figure Ill do a double dare instead. My motto has sortov been "i'll try anything once and twice if it hurt" So in short I guess it's about double daring someone to try me. Of course I had several others that I would perhaps liked more but you get what you get.
I have also been thinking about the aluminum driveshaft. How much is the one that you are thinking about?
I have also been thinking about the aluminum driveshaft. How much is the one that you are thinking about?
$589 shipped. Not a bad deal for a 17lbs. aluminum driveshaft. Cheaper than the Powerhouse units at any rate by about $100.
#613
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I'd be interested to hear what others have said about switching to the one piece Alum Shaft. The main reason Ford went with the two piece with a pilot bearing was to combat vibration. If there's no issues, I'd love tp swap mine.
#614
I have been doing some searching on the forums and it seems as though there is a new shaft being offered from tillman speed for a prety good price. Beware though and I think Jeff can attest that if you have a saleen shifter you can't use it or many other aftermarket driveshafts. It looks like any other shifter including hurst, Pro5.0, or Steeda will work fine with the 4" diameter of the aluminum shaft.
#615
Jeff what is it about the Saleen shifter that makes it impossible to use the larger driveshaft? Is it the rear portion of the shifter near the bushing or what?
#616
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Jeff has a stock shifter... he did get the Saleen bushing kit. Which is about the best $35 one can spend.
Have you read anything on vibration David?
Have you read anything on vibration David?
#617
Well I think (and I am sure Jeff could verify) that the shifter bushing block on the Saleen shifters and adaptor kits (which is what I believe Jeff has) is the culprit for the shafts not fitting.
Paul I have seen NO issues with any vibration being discussed for manual transmission cars. The only cars with concern for vibration seem to be automatics.
I guess beware the shifter you buy if you plan to use an aluminum shaft. I am thinking about getting LCA's and a shifter before i get gears as I feel these two items will be more necessary once gears are placed in the car. So I guess I will be doing more research as I am planning on using an aluminum shaft but I also believe that in a few months the prices will begin to drop a little as more parts become available from more vendors. In short I will be buying LCA's and a shifter that will work with a 4" aluminum drive shaft. Either Steeda tri-Ax or Pro 5.0 .
Paul I have seen NO issues with any vibration being discussed for manual transmission cars. The only cars with concern for vibration seem to be automatics.
I guess beware the shifter you buy if you plan to use an aluminum shaft. I am thinking about getting LCA's and a shifter before i get gears as I feel these two items will be more necessary once gears are placed in the car. So I guess I will be doing more research as I am planning on using an aluminum shaft but I also believe that in a few months the prices will begin to drop a little as more parts become available from more vendors. In short I will be buying LCA's and a shifter that will work with a 4" aluminum drive shaft. Either Steeda tri-Ax or Pro 5.0 .
#618
Has anyone price compared the Steeda shifter to the Pro 5.0?
#619
From what I was reading on the forums most people prefer the Pro5.0 shifter above all the rest.
#620
Yes I have the Saleen short thorw shifter adapter. Yes it is preventing me from ordering that particular driveshaft. Problem is, the adapter sticks down and clear becomes an issue is you get a driveshaft of larger than 3 inches. I guess I'll wait and see if anyone makes one that fits or maybe I will have a custom one made down the road.
I ordered my FRPP 410 gears last night. Spoke with the place I ordered them from and they should be here in a week or two. Apparently they are back ordered.
LCAs are next and then about April the drag slicks. By then I should be ready for Mid America. I went with the gears before the LCAs because I wanted to wake the car up since I daily drive it. The LCAs won't help the daily driving much if at all.
I ordered my FRPP 410 gears last night. Spoke with the place I ordered them from and they should be here in a week or two. Apparently they are back ordered.
LCAs are next and then about April the drag slicks. By then I should be ready for Mid America. I went with the gears before the LCAs because I wanted to wake the car up since I daily drive it. The LCAs won't help the daily driving much if at all.