Brake upgrades for the track after reviews
2/25/11, 12:04 PM
#21
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I think ya'll are getting cabin fever, lol, buying all this stuff before you even drive the car and spending money on something based on the opinion of a magazine editor...
Here's my opinion, take it with a grain of salt. Drive the car on track first THEN decide what to get and what it needs! Not only will you then know EXACTLY where the weak points are, but you all also have a better appreciation for the mods you install to fix the issue than you would just slapping them on as soon as you buy the car based on a complaint you read in a magazine article.
Here's my opinion, take it with a grain of salt. Drive the car on track first THEN decide what to get and what it needs! Not only will you then know EXACTLY where the weak points are, but you all also have a better appreciation for the mods you install to fix the issue than you would just slapping them on as soon as you buy the car based on a complaint you read in a magazine article.
2/25/11, 12:32 PM
#22
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2/25/11, 04:17 PM
#24
It takes 10 mins per side to swap the front pads out (I'd even run with the stock rears) at the track. Anyone that wants a combo that would work well on the street and on the track is going to be dissapointed somewhere.
2/25/11, 04:18 PM
#25
2/25/11, 04:20 PM
#26
Guys--just swap the pads out at the track! If you're changing to a set of wheels and tires for the track, it's a minimal additional burden. If you're running street tires on the track, you could probably get away with a dual-purpose pad since you won't be going as fast anyways.
Last edited by 06GT; 2/25/11 at 04:23 PM.
2/25/11, 05:50 PM
#27
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I've run DTC70s on the street in the front as I was too lazy to remove them after the end of the track weekend, but they did score up my rotors a little from using them for 3 days well under their temp range. There was no loss of street stopping power when they were cold. I'd not recommend them for dual-purpose due to the rotor wear characteristics when they are cold.
Guys--just swap the pads out at the track! If you're changing to a set of wheels and tires for the track, it's a minimal additional burden. If you're running street tires on the track, you could probably get away with a dual-purpose pad since you won't be going as fast anyways.
Guys--just swap the pads out at the track! If you're changing to a set of wheels and tires for the track, it's a minimal additional burden. If you're running street tires on the track, you could probably get away with a dual-purpose pad since you won't be going as fast anyways.
I think the ds2500's will be perfect for autox and, ahem...backroads
then switch to the DTC70s for hardcore track use. thanks 06GT!
2/25/11, 05:54 PM
#28
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Not to confuse things further, but generally using same manufacturer pads for track and street minimizes the pad incompatibility problems, so often it's recommended to use say Hawk HPS street, and their DTCs, unless swapping out rotors (that's a bit of a bigger job than just the pads) as well. Different manufacturers for each tends to lead more to brake judder problems.
2/25/11, 06:01 PM
#29
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Not to confuse things further, but generally using same manufacturer pads for track and street minimizes the pad incompatibility problems, so often it's recommended to use say Hawk HPS street, and their DTCs, unless swapping out rotors (that's a bit of a bigger job than just the pads) as well. Different manufacturers for each tends to lead more to brake judder problems.
I FINALLY found a forum like http://www.IWSTI.com that has great people and intelligent info!!! I'm glad I'm here
2/26/11, 05:37 AM
#30
IMO, a set of PFC01 pads, DOT4 fluid, and the cooling ducts should be a substantial improvement over the stock system.
Give the guys at Rehagen a call, I know they've played with brakes a bit and might have more insight than I do on the subject.
Give the guys at Rehagen a call, I know they've played with brakes a bit and might have more insight than I do on the subject.
2/26/11, 05:54 AM
#31
I am Shauny Clause
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I'm moving to my new house today. I have a lot to add here much from 2011 trial and error. Will post later, can't right now
2/26/11, 08:41 AM
#33
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Haven't tried them. I've heard nothing but good things about the Motul fluid, but I run the Brembo 600 and haven't had a good reason to change. I've been very happy with the DTC 70/60 combo and have brand new pads in the garage already. They're not cheap and will eat rotors but they stop the car! You can't run any track pads on the street unless as stated you want to sound like a Burlington Northern and unnecessarily wear your rotors. They also don't work well in panic stops when cold. I run the DBA two-piece rotors for weight savings. The stock rotors will work fine and you'll probably replace them more often, but there's more rotating mass. The difference is 8 lbs per rotor.
2/26/11, 08:43 AM
#34
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+1 that's why I want to be ready. We know we have to change pads and fluid. The rotors can be changed to save weight but aren't necessary. The steel lines are $200 so not a big deal one way or the other, but based on the reviews, it certainly implies they will improve the feel/responsivenes. That's less than half the cost of one set of pads.
Someone hire a mover for him! 
