'13-14 Cluster into '10-12 car (with TrackApps) retrofit
4/9/13, 07:59 AM
#122
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I did mention before that Cruise did work with the 2013 cluster .. but the Cruise indicator did not illumincate on the cluster. If the wires are moved.. perhaps what light will illuminate on the cluster but the Cruise won't work.
4/9/13, 08:50 AM
#123
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We'll see. There are still only 2 wires that deal with cruise control as before, they are just in different spots now on the connectors.
Makes sense that cruise worked before as the old switch is still wired in properly.
I'm more concerned about PATS.
Makes sense that cruise worked before as the old switch is still wired in properly.
I'm more concerned about PATS.
Last edited by jim010; 4/9/13 at 09:02 AM.
4/9/13, 08:50 AM
#124
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Here is a thread on another forum discussing the cruise control issue.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...king-11-a.html
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...king-11-a.html
4/9/13, 09:06 AM
#125
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Here is a thread on another forum discussing the cruise control issue.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...king-11-a.html
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...king-11-a.html
4/9/13, 09:12 AM
#126
Legacy TMS Member
Thanks Greg. I figured all it was was just repinning. Looks like they saved me the trouble of figuring out how to repin. Although we want to keep the 2013 switch. He's talking about resoldering resisters to keep the 2013, but I am not sure why that would need be? Repinning should work I would think. I don't need to wait for my cluster to test, though. I have teh button, so I can try this today. I'm getting the diagrams after work.
Here is how to re-pin the cruise control.
First you need to get the correct cruise control. Ford p/n AR3Z-9C888-BA $33.94
Looks like this:
Take apart the wheel to the point that you can get to the connector to the cruise control that looks like this:
Now to take the wires out of the connector...
First open the flap on both side of the connector. I just stuck a push pin in the side of connector, under the flap, and pried it open. The first time it might seem like you are breaking it, but you probably won't break it and it definitely isn't used from anything beside dressing up the connector.
Here is the place I stuck the push-pin into:
Here is a picture of the opened flap:
Both sides have a flap, so this needs to be repeated from the other side of the connector.
Next you are going to pull the wires out.
Take the push pin and press on the silver pin (you are pressing on a little release tab) in the front of the connector while gently tugging on the wire that it corresponds to.
The wire will move maybe a millimeter back before you have to push on the silver pin again and tug on the wire which will allow it to completely come out of the connector.
Repeat this step for all of the wires in the cruise control connector.
Now it is time to put them into the correct positions for the '11/12 cruise control module.
Simply press the pin into the correct position of the connector with the little tab that you pushed in to remove it facing towards the outside of the connector (the same way that it came out).
The correct pinout for the '11/12 cruise control module looks like this:
On the bottom of the connector in the above picture the wires go Red, Brown, Black. It was kind of hard to tell from the picture.
Attached Thumbnails
First you need to get the correct cruise control. Ford p/n AR3Z-9C888-BA $33.94
Looks like this:
Take apart the wheel to the point that you can get to the connector to the cruise control that looks like this:
Now to take the wires out of the connector...
First open the flap on both side of the connector. I just stuck a push pin in the side of connector, under the flap, and pried it open. The first time it might seem like you are breaking it, but you probably won't break it and it definitely isn't used from anything beside dressing up the connector.
Here is the place I stuck the push-pin into:
Here is a picture of the opened flap:
Both sides have a flap, so this needs to be repeated from the other side of the connector.
Next you are going to pull the wires out.
Take the push pin and press on the silver pin (you are pressing on a little release tab) in the front of the connector while gently tugging on the wire that it corresponds to.
The wire will move maybe a millimeter back before you have to push on the silver pin again and tug on the wire which will allow it to completely come out of the connector.
Repeat this step for all of the wires in the cruise control connector.
Now it is time to put them into the correct positions for the '11/12 cruise control module.
Simply press the pin into the correct position of the connector with the little tab that you pushed in to remove it facing towards the outside of the connector (the same way that it came out).
The correct pinout for the '11/12 cruise control module looks like this:
On the bottom of the connector in the above picture the wires go Red, Brown, Black. It was kind of hard to tell from the picture.
Attached Thumbnails
Last edited by jim010; 4/9/13 at 09:20 AM.
4/9/13, 09:17 AM
#127
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What sucks is that the 2012 Setup buttons on the headlight function fine as the arrow keys. The ONLY problem is there is no OK button. Too bad there is no combination of keys that simulate the OK button being pressed then everything would work with the 2012 Steering wheel and 2012 Buttons.
Anybody know how to read the schematics and figure out how to wire in an OK button?
I'm thinking adding a small momentary switch spliced into the bus and installed underneath the setup buttons with the correct resistance would simulate the OK button.
Anybody know how to read the schematics and figure out how to wire in an OK button?
I'm thinking adding a small momentary switch spliced into the bus and installed underneath the setup buttons with the correct resistance would simulate the OK button.
Last edited by dmhines; 4/9/13 at 09:28 AM.
4/9/13, 09:42 AM
#128
Legacy TMS Member
Testing the buttons should not be tough.
You ran the wires from pins 4 and 6 to the wheel. Run them all the way to the switch (bypass the clockspring) to pins 3 and 2. Disconnect pin 2 that is already there. If hooking up those 2 wires doesn't enable the ok and arrow buttons, then I don't know what to do.
You ran the wires from pins 4 and 6 to the wheel. Run them all the way to the switch (bypass the clockspring) to pins 3 and 2. Disconnect pin 2 that is already there. If hooking up those 2 wires doesn't enable the ok and arrow buttons, then I don't know what to do.
4/9/13, 09:50 AM
#129
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I was thinking about just plugging the two wires I moved out of the 2012 setup buttons and plugging them right into the arrow switch pin 2 and 3. I don't even need the switch install in steering wheel to test that. That should work right? Do I need a ground too or is that just for the illumination?
4/9/13, 10:01 AM
#131
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The PCM controls the cruise functions based on the voltage signal it receives.
2011
Off: Short
On: 2.11 K
Set -: 300
Set +: 600
Res: 1.11 K
Cncl: N/A
2013
Off: Short
On: Short
Set -: 120
Set +: 300
Res: 600
Cncl: 600
That only leaves 3 options:
1) Modify the switch to give the correct signals.
2) Modify the PCM programming to accept the signals you send.
3) Swap in a 2013 PCM, harness, and clock spring.
2011
Off: Short
On: 2.11 K
Set -: 300
Set +: 600
Res: 1.11 K
Cncl: N/A
2013
Off: Short
On: Short
Set -: 120
Set +: 300
Res: 600
Cncl: 600
That only leaves 3 options:
1) Modify the switch to give the correct signals.
2) Modify the PCM programming to accept the signals you send.
3) Swap in a 2013 PCM, harness, and clock spring.
4/9/13, 10:04 AM
#132
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Do you have information that the 2013 CLockSpring is wired differently?
The PCM controls the cruise functions based on the voltage signal it receives.
2011
Off: Short
On: 2.11 K
Set -: 300
Set +: 600
Res: 1.11 K
Cncl: N/A
2013
Off: Short
On: Short
Set -: 120
Set +: 300
Res: 600
Cncl: 600
That only leaves 3 options:
1) Modify the switch to give the correct signals.
2) Modify the PCM programming to accept the signals you send.
3) Swap in a 2013 PCM, harness, and clock spring.
2011
Off: Short
On: 2.11 K
Set -: 300
Set +: 600
Res: 1.11 K
Cncl: N/A
2013
Off: Short
On: Short
Set -: 120
Set +: 300
Res: 600
Cncl: 600
That only leaves 3 options:
1) Modify the switch to give the correct signals.
2) Modify the PCM programming to accept the signals you send.
3) Swap in a 2013 PCM, harness, and clock spring.
4/9/13, 10:12 AM
#133
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It has to be if you need to switch wires around. If you are asking if the 2012 clockspring has a sufficient number of wires available to make the modification, that I do not know.
Last edited by Greg2011; 4/9/13 at 10:13 AM. Reason: Spelling
4/9/13, 10:20 AM
#135
Legacy TMS Member
We need to add 2 pins (for the arrow and ok buttons) to the clockspring connectors while the rest are shuffled around. I know where all the pins need to go except for the 2 wires for the cruise control. It doesn't really matter where they pass through, as long as they match up with the correct wires. Which is where I'm at. I don't know which cruise control wire from the switch matches up with which cruise control wire from the PCM. But I'll know this afternoon.
Where did you get the info for the voltage Greg? My schematics don't show anything. Or did you measure it yourself?
Cheers
Where did you get the info for the voltage Greg? My schematics don't show anything. Or did you measure it yourself?
Cheers
Last edited by jim010; 4/9/13 at 10:23 AM.
4/9/13, 10:29 AM
#136
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That makes life easier!
I'm frustrated by the need to get into the PCM programming to pull this off. Is it possible to download the PCM programming to a laptop, copy and paste some 2013 code for the cruise and cluster, and load it all back up? Aren't the tuners able to do just that for the engine and transmission controls?
It has to be easier to do than jailbreaking your iPhone. Let's face it, there isn't that much of a cost difference between a PCM and an iPhone.
I'm frustrated by the need to get into the PCM programming to pull this off. Is it possible to download the PCM programming to a laptop, copy and paste some 2013 code for the cruise and cluster, and load it all back up? Aren't the tuners able to do just that for the engine and transmission controls?
It has to be easier to do than jailbreaking your iPhone. Let's face it, there isn't that much of a cost difference between a PCM and an iPhone.
4/9/13, 10:40 AM
#137
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On the 2011, the cruise control is 2 wires, SCCS (white wire) and SCCS Return (Green w/brown). The switches have different resistor values which change the voltage signal sent back to the PCM.
4/9/13, 10:58 AM
#139
Legacy TMS Member
Thanks Greg.
Then the last option would be to keep the current cruise switch, and just use the directional switch/OK buttons, but locate them somewhere else.
In either case, I'll test out the cruise tonight.
Then the last option would be to keep the current cruise switch, and just use the directional switch/OK buttons, but locate them somewhere else.
In either case, I'll test out the cruise tonight.