'13-14 Cluster into '10-12 car (with TrackApps) retrofit
#1982
I'll wait till the CEL issues are ironed out before I try it again
Last edited by gregc; 7/3/14 at 10:19 PM.
#1985
#1987
#1989
GT Member
Qq.....if a ABS control module is bought from a salvage yard, it should not need to be programmed or anything, correct? I am pretty sure of the answer but just wanted to make sure. I am getting ready to do this swap on a friends car and he bought one from a wreck.
#1992
Legacy TMS Member
Kona, the select shift is good now?
Also, I am thinking seriously about adding the paddle shifters. These are the only ones on the market i have found.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221403524077...84.m1423.l2649
Also, I am thinking seriously about adding the paddle shifters. These are the only ones on the market i have found.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221403524077...84.m1423.l2649
#1993
Mach 1 Member
Kona, the select shift is good now? Also, I am thinking seriously about adding the paddle shifters. These are the only ones on the market i have found. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221403524077...84.m1423.l2649
#1994
Legacy TMS Member
I want to, but I don't like the clip on look those have. I would have to cut off the clips, sand and wet sand where the clips were, and find a different way to secure the shifters to the wheel.
Seriously thinking about it. Mind you, after playing with the select shift, the shifts aren't exactly lightening quick.
Seriously thinking about it. Mind you, after playing with the select shift, the shifts aren't exactly lightening quick.
#1995
GT Member
Kona, the select shift is good now?
Also, I am thinking seriously about adding the paddle shifters. These are the only ones on the market i have found.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221403524077...84.m1423.l2649
Also, I am thinking seriously about adding the paddle shifters. These are the only ones on the market i have found.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221403524077...84.m1423.l2649
When I first put the shifter in "S", it does not show on the dash. When I hit the "+" it goes to "2" and I have to hit the "-" to get it to 1st gear. After that, everything works as it should. I have to do this every time I go to select shift.
Do you think it would have something to do with being a GT500 cluster? I did put a GT asbuilt in it to get rid of the launch control and shock symbols.
#1996
Legacy TMS Member
When you first put it in Select shift, tap - to get to 1 when stopped. You don't need to tap + to get to 2 and then tap - to get to one. You can go into select shift while driving as well. Tap - always to start in a lower gear.
As to why you didn't get the select shift message, I can't say.
As to why you didn't get the select shift message, I can't say.
Last edited by jim010; 7/14/14 at 11:45 AM.
#1997
This is a repost from another board that I had made. Was just hoping to get some input here as I wasn't sure if the problem I am I having would be related because of this mod or not.
Hey fellas need some opinions on what to do.
I had a tune done by Jon Lund and everything seems to be working great except for when I go WOT. Jon is telling me based on.my data logs that when at Idle or cruising speed, everything is great, but going WOT shows the computer pulling 6 degrees of timing. (I used a PCM Code for a '13 GT that Hines suggested and had Jon adjust his tune to accommodate for my '12)
Jon told me it's most likely bad gas or loose exhaust. I found a station that sold 100 Octane Sunoco (unleaded and oxygenated) so I ran a tank of that and had the same issue. I also had an exhaust shop cut put my resonators and make sure the exhaust and axle backs (borla s type) were all good and tight.
Jon is telling me to look at Spark Plugs or Knock Sensors now. I currently have 26k miles on the car and just thought it would be weird the plugs could be bad.
Anyway I am all about second opinions and just wanted to see what y'all thought.
*edit* Sorry Matt this post was about my issue and I didn't make that very clear to start with.
Hey fellas need some opinions on what to do.
I had a tune done by Jon Lund and everything seems to be working great except for when I go WOT. Jon is telling me based on.my data logs that when at Idle or cruising speed, everything is great, but going WOT shows the computer pulling 6 degrees of timing. (I used a PCM Code for a '13 GT that Hines suggested and had Jon adjust his tune to accommodate for my '12)
Jon told me it's most likely bad gas or loose exhaust. I found a station that sold 100 Octane Sunoco (unleaded and oxygenated) so I ran a tank of that and had the same issue. I also had an exhaust shop cut put my resonators and make sure the exhaust and axle backs (borla s type) were all good and tight.
Jon is telling me to look at Spark Plugs or Knock Sensors now. I currently have 26k miles on the car and just thought it would be weird the plugs could be bad.
Anyway I am all about second opinions and just wanted to see what y'all thought.
*edit* Sorry Matt this post was about my issue and I didn't make that very clear to start with.
Last edited by McLovin; 7/15/14 at 02:32 PM. Reason: Clairification
#1998
Mach 1 Member
This is a repost from another board. Was just hoping to get some input here as I wasn't sure if it would be related because of this mod or not.
Hey fellas need some opinions on what to do.
I had a tune done by Jon Lund and everything seems to be working great except for when I go WOT. Jon is telling me based on.my data logs that when at Idle or cruising speed, everything is great, but going WOT shows the computer pulling 6 degrees of timing. (I used a PCM Code for a '13 GT that Hines suggested and had Jon adjust his tune to accommodate for my '12)
Jon told me it's most likely bad gas or loose exhaust. I found a station that sold 100 Octane Sunoco (unleaded and oxygenated) so I ran a tank of that and had the same issue. I also had an exhaust shop cut put my resonators and make sure the exhaust and axle backs (borla s type) were all good and tight.
Jon is telling me to look at Spark Plugs or Knock Sensors now. I currently have 26k miles on the car and just thought it would be weird the plugs could be bad.
Anyway I am all about second opinions and just wanted to see what y'all thought.
Hey fellas need some opinions on what to do.
I had a tune done by Jon Lund and everything seems to be working great except for when I go WOT. Jon is telling me based on.my data logs that when at Idle or cruising speed, everything is great, but going WOT shows the computer pulling 6 degrees of timing. (I used a PCM Code for a '13 GT that Hines suggested and had Jon adjust his tune to accommodate for my '12)
Jon told me it's most likely bad gas or loose exhaust. I found a station that sold 100 Octane Sunoco (unleaded and oxygenated) so I ran a tank of that and had the same issue. I also had an exhaust shop cut put my resonators and make sure the exhaust and axle backs (borla s type) were all good and tight.
Jon is telling me to look at Spark Plugs or Knock Sensors now. I currently have 26k miles on the car and just thought it would be weird the plugs could be bad.
Anyway I am all about second opinions and just wanted to see what y'all thought.
I covered this earlier in the thread. The SCT software does not have access to all the required parameter changes between the two calibrations. (To my recollection, its been a few weeks since I've looked at them)
This is the likely cause.
Both Jim010 and Dhmines are running custom non SCT calibrations written by myself for these changes. I do not have a great way to deliver these yet though :/ (However, i'm currently in contact with Diablosport, and they seem willing to add all the parameters to a custom template. Therefore these calibrations could be delivered over diablosport tuners)
Have this member contact me and I can assist further.
Cheers,
-Matt
Last edited by zeroaviation; 7/15/14 at 01:51 PM.