What did you do to your '10-'14 today?
#1301
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My local adam's products guru came by today for my annual stock up on detailing goodies. Some new stuff for me this year. A new brilliant glaze and a spray on quick sealant, especially good at repelling brake dust on my baby's new snake wheels
as well as new wheel woolies to get in between the spokes better.
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Last edited by DarrenGT; 5/4/15 at 09:17 PM.
#1302
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My local adam's products guru came by today for my annual stock up on detailing goodies. Some new stuff for me this year. A new brilliant glaze and a spray on quick sealant, especially good at repelling brake dust on my baby's new snake wheels
as well as new wheel woolies to get in between the spokes better.
![Smile](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#1305
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My local adam's products guru came by today for my annual stock up on detailing goodies. Some new stuff for me this year. A new brilliant glaze and a spray on quick sealant, especially good at repelling brake dust on my baby's new snake wheels
as well as new wheel woolies to get in between the spokes better.
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![Smile](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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Question though Darren....why the need for a clay bar? I thought you garaged your car...or is that for the truck?
I broke out my Meguiars pro stuff....swirl remover, polish, and yellow liquid wax and used my Porter Cable DA for the first time yesterday. Started later in the day, got 3/4 done and I'll finish it up today. The results are very encouraging. I want to see how it looks in direct sunlight, but it seems like I'm achieving the elusive wet look. I'll post pics later.
Last edited by TripleBlack14; 5/5/15 at 03:38 AM.
#1306
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My local adam's products guru came by today for my annual stock up on detailing goodies. Some new stuff for me this year. A new brilliant glaze and a spray on quick sealant, especially good at repelling brake dust on my baby's new snake wheels
as well as new wheel woolies to get in between the spokes better.
![Smile](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#1307
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My local adam's products guru came by today for my annual stock up on detailing goodies. Some new stuff for me this year. A new brilliant glaze and a spray on quick sealant, especially good at repelling brake dust on my baby's new snake wheels
as well as new wheel woolies to get in between the spokes better.
![](http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff428/ductape3/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-05/20150504_194527_zpsh8ughtwx.jpg)
![](http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff428/ductape3/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-05/20150504_194538_zpsi3im7ue6.jpg)
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#1308
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Looks like you're all stocked up in the event of a carpocalypse. It pays to be prepared.
Question though Darren....why the need for a clay bar? I thought you garaged your car...or is that for the truck?
I broke out my Meguiars pro stuff....swirl remover, polish, and yellow liquid wax and used my Porter Cable DA for the first time yesterday. Started later in the day, got 3/4 done and I'll finish it up today. The results are very encouraging. I want to see how it looks in direct sunlight, but it seems like I'm achieving the elusive wet look. I'll post pics later.
Question though Darren....why the need for a clay bar? I thought you garaged your car...or is that for the truck?
I broke out my Meguiars pro stuff....swirl remover, polish, and yellow liquid wax and used my Porter Cable DA for the first time yesterday. Started later in the day, got 3/4 done and I'll finish it up today. The results are very encouraging. I want to see how it looks in direct sunlight, but it seems like I'm achieving the elusive wet look. I'll post pics later.
I clay during every wash. The more you clay, the less particles stick on your car. Claying is needed to ensure you have a clean canvas for you to paint on. (applying glaze, sealant, or wax). A smooth flat surface means enhanced reflectivity and maximizes gloss.
Do you "have" to clay? no. But if you're an artist, would you want to paint on a dirty canvas? Not I. Btw, you'll also want to remove these particles because if you don't, it will eat away through the clear coat and through your paint.
Anyways, just thought I'd clear this misnomer.
p.s. I don't use clay bars anymore. Clay pads work 50x faster than a clay bar, with no kneading.
My local adam's products guru came by today for my annual stock up on detailing goodies. Some new stuff for me this year. A new brilliant glaze and a spray on quick sealant, especially good at repelling brake dust on my baby's new snake wheels
as well as new wheel woolies to get in between the spokes better.
![Smile](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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Last edited by FromZto5; 5/5/15 at 09:30 AM.
#1309
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Yep those are my BMC Black Mamba wheels (supersnake style). The clay bar is primarily for the truck which spends alot more time outside and is only 6 months old. I feel some roughness on it so it needs a good clay before waxing again. Even though my car is covered, it does get exposed out there and may need a clay bar treatment as well.
One reason i like Adam's is that most of the products are non-petroleum based which is better for my vinyl stripes. My partial devotion to Adam's products is based primarily on my friendship with Glen the distributor who also provides me with knowledge and occasional help when i'm in a time crunch. You should see the cars he details on a regular basis. Rolls royces, bentley's, porsche spyders, classics, etc etc. He details for some serious collectors in the area. one of whom as more than 30 cars in a garage under his house LOL!
One reason i like Adam's is that most of the products are non-petroleum based which is better for my vinyl stripes. My partial devotion to Adam's products is based primarily on my friendship with Glen the distributor who also provides me with knowledge and occasional help when i'm in a time crunch. You should see the cars he details on a regular basis. Rolls royces, bentley's, porsche spyders, classics, etc etc. He details for some serious collectors in the area. one of whom as more than 30 cars in a garage under his house LOL!
#1310
I Have No Life
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Yep those are my BMC Black Mamba wheels (supersnake style). The clay bar is primarily for the truck which spends alot more time outside and is only 6 months old. I feel some roughness on it so it needs a good clay before waxing again. Even though my car is covered, it does get exposed out there and may need a clay bar treatment as well.
One reason i like Adam's is that most of the products are non-petroleum based which is better for my vinyl stripes. My partial devotion to Adam's products is based primarily on my friendship with Glen the distributor who also provides me with knowledge and occasional help when i'm in a time crunch. You should see the cars he details on a regular basis. Rolls royces, bentley's, porsche spyders, classics, etc etc. He details for some serious collectors in the area. one of whom as more than 30 cars in a garage under his house LOL!
One reason i like Adam's is that most of the products are non-petroleum based which is better for my vinyl stripes. My partial devotion to Adam's products is based primarily on my friendship with Glen the distributor who also provides me with knowledge and occasional help when i'm in a time crunch. You should see the cars he details on a regular basis. Rolls royces, bentley's, porsche spyders, classics, etc etc. He details for some serious collectors in the area. one of whom as more than 30 cars in a garage under his house LOL!
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As to your car needing claying.... well, put it this way. You guys know how much I take care of mine, how little I drive mine, and "how" I drive mine = no rain, ever. I still have to clay. My guess is that if I have to clay? You all have to clay.
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#1311
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Claying is ALWAYS needed. Its purpose is to remove contaminants from the paint surface. It is inevitable that these contaminants, mostly metal particles from brake dust, get embedded onto the paint due to moisture mixing with it, turning it into "rust" particles. Any car will have this. Grab a sandwich baggie and feel your paint through it.
I clay during every wash. The more you clay, the less particles stick on your car. Claying is needed to ensure you have a clean canvas for you to paint on. (applying glaze, sealant, or wax). A smooth flat surface means enhanced reflectivity and maximizes gloss.
Do you "have" to clay? no. But if you're an artist, would you want to paint on a dirty canvas? Not I. Btw, you'll also want to remove these particles because if you don't, it will eat away through the clear coat and through your paint.
Anyways, just thought I'd clear this misnomer.
p.s. I don't use clay bars anymore. Clay pads work 50x faster than a clay bar, with no kneading.
I clay during every wash. The more you clay, the less particles stick on your car. Claying is needed to ensure you have a clean canvas for you to paint on. (applying glaze, sealant, or wax). A smooth flat surface means enhanced reflectivity and maximizes gloss.
Do you "have" to clay? no. But if you're an artist, would you want to paint on a dirty canvas? Not I. Btw, you'll also want to remove these particles because if you don't, it will eat away through the clear coat and through your paint.
Anyways, just thought I'd clear this misnomer.
p.s. I don't use clay bars anymore. Clay pads work 50x faster than a clay bar, with no kneading.
Wow every wash? That's devotion!
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I've never heard of a clay pad? Link to the ones that you use?
#1312
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I'm far from an expert, and that's why I'm always seeking advice from professional on a variety of issues, including detailing. Like body repairs, the least amount of work necessary to get the desired results is the most prudent way to proceed. In other words, don't over-repair and likewise, don't over-detail/clean if it's not required.
The consensus among the pros I've spoken with is that since my car is always garage kept, never driven in any kind of moisture, and wiped down after every drive, it's unlikely that I'll never need to clay it. In that regard, I defer to the experts. The only issue I have is since the car is black, surface defects are always occuring.
The other piece of advice was to get a DA buffer which I've done, and I've just finished a swirl and hologram correction, followed by polishing and a final coat of Meguiars pro yellow liquid wax. From what I can tell, the results are amazing so far. I'm actually hoping for bright direct sunlight today so I can fully inspect the results and look for missed spots.
The consensus among the pros I've spoken with is that since my car is always garage kept, never driven in any kind of moisture, and wiped down after every drive, it's unlikely that I'll never need to clay it. In that regard, I defer to the experts. The only issue I have is since the car is black, surface defects are always occuring.
The other piece of advice was to get a DA buffer which I've done, and I've just finished a swirl and hologram correction, followed by polishing and a final coat of Meguiars pro yellow liquid wax. From what I can tell, the results are amazing so far. I'm actually hoping for bright direct sunlight today so I can fully inspect the results and look for missed spots.
Last edited by TripleBlack14; 5/5/15 at 10:37 AM.
#1314
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For those that asked...use this while you wash and clay barring becomes a thing of the past.
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Surface_...p/cly_303b.htm
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Surface_...p/cly_303b.htm
#1316
I Have No Life
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The clay pads I use I leave in my soap bucket. After I do a panel, I simply follow on with swipes of the clay pad. No incessant rubbing like you do a bar.
Man, I can't believe I'm divulging my secrets. LOL.
It's actually called a clay "block"... among many things.
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Clay_Blo...clay_block.htm
I'm far from an expert, and that's why I'm always seeking advice from professional on a variety of issues, including detailing. Like body repairs, the least amount of work necessary to get the desired results is the most prudent way to proceed. In other words, don't over-repair and likewise, don't over-detail/clean if it's not required.
The consensus among the pros I've spoken with is that since my car is always garage kept, never driven in any kind of moisture, and wiped down after every drive, it's unlikely that I'll never need to clay it. In that regard, I defer to the experts. The only issue I have is since the car is black, surface defects are always occuring.
The other piece of advice was to get a DA buffer which I've done, and I've just finished a swirl and hologram correction, followed by polishing and a final coat of Meguiars pro yellow liquid wax. From what I can tell, the results are amazing so far. I'm actually hoping for bright direct sunlight today so I can fully inspect the results and look for missed spots.
The consensus among the pros I've spoken with is that since my car is always garage kept, never driven in any kind of moisture, and wiped down after every drive, it's unlikely that I'll never need to clay it. In that regard, I defer to the experts. The only issue I have is since the car is black, surface defects are always occuring.
The other piece of advice was to get a DA buffer which I've done, and I've just finished a swirl and hologram correction, followed by polishing and a final coat of Meguiars pro yellow liquid wax. From what I can tell, the results are amazing so far. I'm actually hoping for bright direct sunlight today so I can fully inspect the results and look for missed spots.
I'm always evolving mine, to get the best/fastest results possible. Time is money in any biz. If it takes 6 hours to do, I'll do it, as long as it's the best way. If there's a way to get the SAME if not better results in literally 15 minutes, I'll do that too. I used to take 5 hours to completely clay 1 car after a harsh winter. Now I've done it in as fast as 15 minutes.
For those that asked...use this while you wash and clay barring becomes a thing of the past.
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Surface_...p/cly_303b.htm
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Surface_...p/cly_303b.htm
No detailing flame war. I'm just divulging info. People can do whatever they want. I'll just be there to point out swirls and scratches at EVERY car show.
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#1317
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Man, I can't believe I'm divulging my secrets. LOL.
It's actually called a clay "block"... among many things.
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Clay_Blo...clay_block.htm
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#1318
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I have the clay block from CG and didn't care for it. Maybe I got a defective one. It seemed to deposit clay on my clear bra'd surfaces, but worked just fine on the paint. The clay mitt worked fine on all the surfaces and did require a little more effort, but with the higher surface area, there was less actual rubbing. YMMV obviously. I just think my clear bra didn't like the clay block. It seemed to be a bit too rough, even with it being their "fine" version.
#1319
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I have the clay block from CG and didn't care for it. Maybe I got a defective one. It seemed to deposit clay on my clear bra'd surfaces, but worked just fine on the paint. The clay mitt worked fine on all the surfaces and did require a little more effort, but with the higher surface area, there was less actual rubbing. YMMV obviously. I just think my clear bra didn't like the clay block. It seemed to be a bit too rough, even with it being their "fine" version.
Now if you are leaving residue on the film itself on a smooth surface (not edge), then you most definitely have a defective block. I have 10 of those things and have been using them a long time. Not once did I leave residue (except on the edges as described above).
Last edited by FromZto5; 5/5/15 at 12:20 PM.
#1320
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Maybe I need to take some detailing videos for all of you and divulge more of my secrets... lol. How to wash, how to clay, how to buff, how to glaze, seal, and wax, how to use ONR (no rinse bucket wash), how to detail spray without scratching... LOL.
If only I had the time I once did.
If only I had the time I once did.
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