My local adam's products guru came by today for my annual stock up on detailing goodies. Some new stuff for me this year. A new brilliant glaze and a spray on quick sealant, especially good at repelling brake dust on my baby's new snake wheels as well as new wheel woolies to get in between the spokes better.

 

Alright....bring that stuff on over!!!

 

Get those things on Darren!!!

 

awaiting the arrival of rubber. the suspense...

 

Looks like you're all stocked up in the event of a carpocalypse. It pays to be prepared.

Question though Darren....why the need for a clay bar? I thought you garaged your car...or is that for the truck?

I broke out my Meguiars pro stuff....swirl remover, polish, and yellow liquid wax and used my Porter Cable DA for the first time yesterday. Started later in the day, got 3/4 done and I'll finish it up today. The results are very encouraging. I want to see how it looks in direct sunlight, but it seems like I'm achieving the elusive wet look. I'll post pics later.

 

Are those the super snake replica wheels?

 

Adam's headquarters is about 50 miles away from me and I have been using their stuff for a few years now and they just keep getting better! I love the quick sealant! And the glass sealant (works great in the shower too!)...

 

Claying is ALWAYS needed. Its purpose is to remove contaminants from the paint surface. It is inevitable that these contaminants, mostly metal particles from brake dust, get embedded onto the paint due to moisture mixing with it, turning it into "rust" particles. Any car will have this. Grab a sandwich baggie and feel your paint through it.

I clay during every wash. The more you clay, the less particles stick on your car. Claying is needed to ensure you have a clean canvas for you to paint on. (applying glaze, sealant, or wax). A smooth flat surface means enhanced reflectivity and maximizes gloss.

Do you "have" to clay? no. But if you're an artist, would you want to paint on a dirty canvas? Not I. Btw, you'll also want to remove these particles because if you don't, it will eat away through the clear coat and through your paint.

Anyways, just thought I'd clear this misnomer.

p.s. I don't use clay bars anymore. Clay pads work 50x faster than a clay bar, with no kneading.

Nice Darren! I have a few Adam's stuff. They're ok. There's a ton of superior products for equal cost, and easier to use. I can go over them with you sometime. I've spent close to 15k on detailing products for my biz over the years... I have some experience

 

Yep those are my BMC Black Mamba wheels (supersnake style). The clay bar is primarily for the truck which spends alot more time outside and is only 6 months old. I feel some roughness on it so it needs a good clay before waxing again. Even though my car is covered, it does get exposed out there and may need a clay bar treatment as well.

One reason i like Adam's is that most of the products are non-petroleum based which is better for my vinyl stripes. My partial devotion to Adam's products is based primarily on my friendship with Glen the distributor who also provides me with knowledge and occasional help when i'm in a time crunch. You should see the cars he details on a regular basis. Rolls royces, bentley's, porsche spyders, classics, etc etc. He details for some serious collectors in the area. one of whom as more than 30 cars in a garage under his house LOL!

 

That makes sense then Darren...as far as your loyalty to Adam's. Understandable. I am not loyal to any brand, I use them all! Well, I use the best products of them all

As to your car needing claying.... well, put it this way. You guys know how much I take care of mine, how little I drive mine, and "how" I drive mine = no rain, ever. I still have to clay. My guess is that if I have to clay? You all have to clay.

 

Wow every wash? That's devotion!


I've never heard of a clay pad? Link to the ones that you use?

 

I'm far from an expert, and that's why I'm always seeking advice from professional on a variety of issues, including detailing. Like body repairs, the least amount of work necessary to get the desired results is the most prudent way to proceed. In other words, don't over-repair and likewise, don't over-detail/clean if it's not required.

The consensus among the pros I've spoken with is that since my car is always garage kept, never driven in any kind of moisture, and wiped down after every drive, it's unlikely that I'll never need to clay it. In that regard, I defer to the experts. The only issue I have is since the car is black, surface defects are always occuring.

The other piece of advice was to get a DA buffer which I've done, and I've just finished a swirl and hologram correction, followed by polishing and a final coat of Meguiars pro yellow liquid wax. From what I can tell, the results are amazing so far. I'm actually hoping for bright direct sunlight today so I can fully inspect the results and look for missed spots.

 

 

For those that asked...use this while you wash and clay barring becomes a thing of the past.

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Surface_...p/cly_303b.htm

 

I'm here for the detailing flame war that is brewing!! lol

 

If you've ever used a clay pad, you'll understand why it's soooooo easy. I threw away all my clay bars (the ones you knead). Actually, I take that back. I use clay bars for wheels and exhaust tips now only.

The clay pads I use I leave in my soap bucket. After I do a panel, I simply follow on with swipes of the clay pad. No incessant rubbing like you do a bar.

Man, I can't believe I'm divulging my secrets. LOL.

It's actually called a clay "block"... among many things.

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Clay_Blo...clay_block.htm

Yep, everyone has their own wants and needs... so if folks want to continue doing something the way they've always wanted, that's fine. If they want to use the same products they want to use because they're familiar with it, that's fine.

I'm always evolving mine, to get the best/fastest results possible. Time is money in any biz. If it takes 6 hours to do, I'll do it, as long as it's the best way. If there's a way to get the SAME if not better results in literally 15 minutes, I'll do that too. I used to take 5 hours to completely clay 1 car after a harsh winter. Now I've done it in as fast as 15 minutes.

Yep. I have this and tried it. It's decent. I prefer the block. Just preference. Does a better job imo.

No detailing flame war. I'm just divulging info. People can do whatever they want. I'll just be there to point out swirls and scratches at EVERY car show. It cracks me up actually. I look at paint at every show, then slowly shake my head then move on. These guys spent thousands of dollars on their car, but yet don't even know how to wash their cars properly. They spend money to get it detailed (500 bucks or so) so it's swirl free, then the next day wash it by hand incorrectly, and swirls are back on the car. HILARIOUS.

 

Wow, I never knew these things existed!! I'm going to have to buy one. I learned something today!!

 

I have the clay block from CG and didn't care for it. Maybe I got a defective one. It seemed to deposit clay on my clear bra'd surfaces, but worked just fine on the paint. The clay mitt worked fine on all the surfaces and did require a little more effort, but with the higher surface area, there was less actual rubbing. YMMV obviously. I just think my clear bra didn't like the clay block. It seemed to be a bit too rough, even with it being their "fine" version.

 

Man, you owe me now!!! I'll take your car as deposit!

Patrick... the only time it will leave clay-like material is if you hit an edge/sharp, etc. And if you're claying your film material, it will be at the edge where the film meets the paint. Do not go horizontal on the edge. Meaning, the edge acts like a "blade". Just treat the edge as a KEEP OUT zone. Clay the paint up to and STOP at the edge. Then clay the film and STOP at the edge. Never go over. You risk damaging the block, and also peeling your film. Once your block clay surface has a "cut" in it, it will never work the same, because now you may leave residue because there's loose material in there.

Now if you are leaving residue on the film itself on a smooth surface (not edge), then you most definitely have a defective block. I have 10 of those things and have been using them a long time. Not once did I leave residue (except on the edges as described above).

 

Maybe I need to take some detailing videos for all of you and divulge more of my secrets... lol. How to wash, how to clay, how to buff, how to glaze, seal, and wax, how to use ONR (no rinse bucket wash), how to detail spray without scratching... LOL.

If only I had the time I once did.