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Jim do you remember exactly what is needed? I have been talking to the guy on FB from where that photo is from. He mentioned that the unit requires an amplifier, which powers up the HU & without it it won't even turn on.
Well, mine did power up and functioned, just the sound was completely muted without an amplifier.
He also mentioned that a Sat antenna off a newer model F150 is needed as it is a dual band Sat antenna Sirius radio and Nav data. A Sync unit is needed as well as well as a special wire harness for the radio, Amp, Sync, and USB port.
A steering wheel off the newer Stang that have sync controls will need some rewiring to get everything to work, wiper delay, turn signals and sync controls.
Never got that far, but a Sync module shouldn't be an issue to hook up. I have an extra from a 2010 Mustang.
Now my question is since I already have things like Sync, a newer steering wheel (plus proper buttons), microphone and whatnot for the one I currently have, couldn't I just reuse everything for the newer one?
As long as the sync is of the same vintage, I don't see why not.
Oh before I forget, he also mentioned that his Nav unit did not require reprogramming of the radio.
Btw why did you sell it? Was it not worth it or it didnt work out for you?
When I discovered I needed an amp, I just shelved it, and then I sold teh car to my brother. He never had any interest in upgrading, so I sold the unit. I went on to do similar types of mods to my newer Mustang.
Bob I look forward to what 4dTech says.
I do remember that they said they no longer supprt the S197, but let's see.
Brad simply said they do not make the electronics for this conversion anymore.
I got too say I'm surprised, I figured once I bought a Mustang the aftermarket would have absolutely everything for it.
I actually just finished my install of a 2010 Lincoln mkx navi unit into my 2007 mustang. I've had the parts bought for a couple years now but just rebuilt the car from being wrecked. The newer style units need a external amp and harness to make it work. I used an external amp from an expedition and part of the wiring harness to make a t-harness to make it all work. I reprogrammed the Lincoln radio to a Ford radio myself. I will be installing the newer steering wheel with controls this weekend after the airbag recall is taking care of, and will be adding sync and turning backup camera feature on the radio on. Sorry for the long post.
I actually just finished my install of a 2010 Lincoln mkx navi unit into my 2007 mustang. I've had the parts bought for a couple years now but just rebuilt the car from being wrecked. The newer style units need a external amp and harness to make it work. I used an external amp from an expedition and part of the wiring harness to make a t-harness to make it all work. I reprogrammed the Lincoln radio to a Ford radio myself. I will be installing the newer steering wheel with controls this weekend after the airbag recall is taking care of, and will be adding sync and turning backup camera feature on the radio on. Sorry for the long post.
wow this is awesome. would you happen to have pics? or numbers? I managed to get a nav unit from an 2011 expedition myself but not sure what amp I need.
How did you reprogram it yourself? Do you have pics of the t-harness?
To reprogram I used a program called Forscan. Works almost like the vcm program. You can change built as data on most items that the system can read. The issue I had was that it could not read the ACM(radio) in my 2007 GT. So I had to program it while in a vehicle that would have came with the Clarion unit. I looked up the as built data for a 2009 or 2010 expedition and changed the ACM values. This fixed the max volume issue I was having. On the wiring and the amp, I will get the numbers this week when I install and wire up my ambient console since the amp and working runs under it.
To reprogram I used a program called Forscan. Works almost like the vcm program. You can change built as data on most items that the system can read. The issue I had was that it could not read the ACM(radio) in my 2007 GT. So I had to program it while in a vehicle that would have came with the Clarion unit. I looked up the as built data for a 2009 or 2010 expedition and changed the ACM values. This fixed the max volume issue I was having. On the wiring and the amp, I will get the numbers this week when I install and wire up my ambient console since the amp and working runs under it.
Thanks so much Farris, I look forward to seeing your reply and getting this working in my car. Ill have to look up this Forscan program you mentioned. Sounds very interesting.
I'm sorry if I skipped past the answer(s) in this forum, I just got tired of reading all of the trials and failures over the years and skipped to the end. I read over 100 posts and realized it was from way back in 2007 still so I skipped to the end. Anyway, I'm currently fighting this Navigation swap issues from the top of the post, not sure if they have been resolved anywhere along the way. The people that are doing my programming just can't get everything to work at the same time. Right now, it's the closest they gotten it where I have limited volume and bass and an error about bringing my vehicle in for Nav errors but the Navigation works fine (other than the nuisance message).
My car is a 2006 V6 Mustang Pony Coupe that came with a Shaker 500 system in it. I bought a Nav system from a 2006 Mustang. I've sent it in 4 times now for programming with a 2 week turn around each time shipping across the country. The place has since given up and refunded my money. I kind of feel bad, they gave me a complete refund but have spend $100 in shippoing charges. They've never got rid of the Nav error message, honestly I could live with that if I have to. They've had it set up as a Convertible w/subwoofer 2X in which case it has volume and decent sound except the driver door rattles from extreme base even when the bass is turned as low as it can go. Once they had it with no external amps or subwoofer turned in the config and then it was quieter than if I were to listen to the radio on my phone...and about the same amount of base. Currently is sounds about like an 80's factory 4 speaker stereo which is depressing because I know it can sound better. It's OK to listen to, but it's a coin toss to if I'd prefer this and Navigation or just put the old Shaker 6 disc back in so the radio sound better?
Guess my questions are as follows:
1) What should and should not be enabled in the config screen (pressing and holding 3 and 6). Currently they have External Amp on, Sub off and Convertible is not selected. The THX and Center amp are off as well.
2) Is there a subwoofer in the Shaker 500? I assumed no because there is no subs in the trunk as there are in the Shaker 1000, but I'm reading yes in other forums. After speaking with them when the door rattled they shut that off assuming no sub as well. So should the subwoofer be enabled in the config?
3) Does the "Convertible" option mess up the subwoofer functions in a coupe configuration?
4) Can the Nav error message ever be "programmed out"?
5) Can I access this configuration myself with read/write access? If so, how?
6) Who can I send it to to have it programmed and expect it to work the first time? I'd probably give the place I've been sending it to another chance if I knew for sure how everything should be set...they do not.
The rant is next, skip if you don't want to read. This simple radio swap had turned into a nightmare. I need to park my car for the winter and would like to have this resolved before I do so. I started this project the first week of August when all of my parts were delivered; the Nav system, Nav antenna, Nav disk and Radio Antenna adapter. The first radio I bought from ebay was broken, would not power up, sent back. The second one had a bent pin in the Snap lock antenna jack that bent over completely when I pushed the adapter in. I straightened it but it came out with the Adapter when I removed it to send in for Programming the second time. I took it to a local repair shop and had them install a Motorola type plug, paid $50 but I liked that better than the adapter and snap lock connector. When I sent it in the next time for programming, they thought the connector came apart because the center of the snap lock connector wasn't present and thought they would do me a favor since it had been sent in a couple of times and reinstalled a new snap lock jack...lol. Now I'm just dealing with the programming issues. I've gotten very efficient at swapping radios in this car though. I even put the other one back in "Temporarily" while I send it in now.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Frustrated,
Mike
After reading a bunch of this thread I went and checked it again. Kind of thinking now if they turned the Subwoofer and and didn't change anything else it may be correct? There is no sound coming from the woofer in the doors, only the top speakers. Here are all of the config pages.
Guess my questions are as follows:
1) What should and should not be enabled in the config screen (pressing and holding 3 and 6). Currently they have External Amp on, Sub off and Convertible is not selected. The THX and Center amp are off as well.
2) Is there a subwoofer in the Shaker 500? I assumed no because there is no subs in the trunk as there are in the Shaker 1000, but I'm reading yes in other forums. After speaking with them when the door rattled they shut that off assuming no sub as well. So should the subwoofer be enabled in the config?
3) Does the "Convertible" option mess up the subwoofer functions in a coupe configuration?
4) Can the Nav error message ever be "programmed out"?
5) Can I access this configuration myself with read/write access? If so, how?
6) Who can I send it to to have it programmed and expect it to work the first time? I'd probably give the place I've been sending it to another chance if I knew for sure how everything should be set...they do not.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Frustrated,
Mike
Hi Mike.
I know this cant be a frustrating install. I went through a lot getting mine to work. Though I am seriously thinking of selling it after I upgrade it.
Anyways to answer your questions. Take a look at my post here: https://themustangsource.com/forums/...8/#post6801982
It has images of what it is suppose to look like.
To answer your questions:
1) Check my link. I show what it use to look like and what it was after it was programmed.
2) The subs are in the doors. I have the Shaker 500 as well. My doors use to rattle too until I put in sound-deading in them. But most of the rattling came from the window buttons. Try holding them gently when the bass hits and see if there is still a rattling noise.
3) Not to sure but I believe it would if your car isnt a covertible.
4) Which Nav error message? Did you show it?
5) Unfortunately not. Unless you have the proper program for that kind of stuff. I wish we could do this ourselves. Would save a ton of $$$!!!
6) I got mine programed by 4dtech but they dont program that radio anymore. sorry.
If you need anything else LMK I hope this was some help.
Good luck.
Het VGM Studios,
As the weather is getting nicer, snow melting I'm starting to think about getting this stereo/nav thing going in my summer daily Mustang again. I believe all I need to do now is have the Sub turned back on??? Do you (or anyone else on here) know if it matters if the external amp is enabled if it does not need to be enabled? I'm thinking the amp is internal after reading all of this stuff, but if this function just turns on some preamp outputs it shouldn't hurt anything to have it on if not necessary, correct? Or does this disable the internal amp as well when it is turned on? Any help would be appreciated. I'm sure the place that I sent this back and forth to last summer will not be so easy about paying the shipping back and forth 4 times after they already gave me a full refund.
My only two concerns right now are; 1) the 'subwoofer enabled' needs to be switched to enabled...I know that for sure, and 2) I'm not sure if 'external amp' should be enabled or disabled. The external amp is enabled now, it works but seems quite (compared to the stock Shaker 500 CD Changer). I'm not sure if that is due to the external amp being enabled when it shouldn't be, or if it just sounds quite because there is no low end (sub is disabled). Or maybe the amp in the stock Radio is just louder?
Last edited by ManyMustangsMike; 3/9/20 at 07:55 PM.
Het VGM Studios,
As the weather is getting nicer, snow melting I'm starting to think about getting this stereo/nav thing going in my summer daily Mustang again. I believe all I need to do now is have the Sub turned back on??? Do you (or anyone else on here) know if it matters if the external amp is turned on if it does not need to be? I'm thinking the amp is internal after reading all of this stuff, but it this function just turns on some preamp outputs it shouldn't hurt anything to have it on, correct? Or doe this disable the internal amp as well when it is turned on? Any help would be appreciated. I'm sure the place that I sent this back and forth to last summer will not be so easy about paying the shipping back and forth 4 times after they already gave me a full refund.
My only two concerns right now are; 1) the 'subwoofer enabled' needs to be switched to enabled, and 2) I'm not sure if 'external amp' should be enabled or disabled. The external amp is enabled now, it works but seems very quite. I'm not sure if that is due to the external amp being enabled when it shouldn't be, or if it just sounds quite because there is no low end (sub is disabled).
Look at the link I provided you. There it shows:
External Amp needs to be DISABLED
Subwoofer needs to be ENABLED
Give me a few weeks. I bought a ForScan tool and if I can get into the radio and change the values, Ill let you know. That way you wont have to send it in anymore and change it yourself.
That sounds cool. I previously saw the External Amp was disabled on your images. The only reason I questioned that for mine was because the first time I got it from the place that programmed it, it was Subwoofer Enabled, External Disabled and it sounded awful. Just distorted bass and no highs. Maybe that was because they also had it set up as a convertible, mine is a coupe? Haven't picked up the car from storage yet so I have some time.
I have to wait until the borders are open again to pick up the bluetooth adapter I bought. I'm dying to try out the program but can't until I get the adapter. Sorry man. Once I do I'll update this post.
VGMStudios,
Guess I'm confused on this Forscan tool idea. So you bought a scan tool that you can hopefully get in to your radio to change setup parameters? I'm waiting to see if you can get it to work? Is that the plan? I'm not trying to be a smart a$$, just not quite sure where we are going with this. If so, how much is this tool and what type of a blue tooth adaptor do I need to buy and how much is that? I hopefully will only ever have to do this once, so I don't want to spend a bunch of money to do it myself...at least not more than it costs to have someone else do it. I think I know enough now that one more time sent in will get me what I need,. But then I've thought that before...lol.
VGMStudios,
Guess I'm confused on this Forscan tool idea. So you bought a scan tool that you can hopefully get in to your radio to change setup parameters? I'm waiting to see if you can get it to work? Is that the plan? I'm not trying to be a smart a$$, just not quite sure where we are going with this. If so, how much is this tool and what type of a blue tooth adaptor do I need to buy and how much is that? I hopefully will only ever have to do this once, so I don't want to spend a bunch of money to do it myself...at least not more than it costs to have someone else do it. I think I know enough now that one more time sent in will get me what I need,. But then I've thought that before...lol.
Sorry man. I must have confused you. I tend to do that.. unthoughout sentences.
The ForScan tool is software that reads everything about your car. You need an OBDII reader in order to use ForScan. There is a Pro version of the software that has the option of changing software paramerters in the cars system. You are able to read the radio and I beleive are able to change options and save. The sofware needs a windows laptop or PC to run.
I need a bluetooth adaper for my laptop since it doesnt have it built in. My OBDII adapter uses bluetooth to read the cars data. I can use my phone to read the car (and clear error codes) but it cannot reprogram the system, which you need a windows machine for.
Since I live in Canada, I bought a bluetooth adapter online and shipped it to the USA because it was the cheaper option and I have a few other packages to pick up in the states.
SO once I gather everything I need to read the data of the car, I am hoping to be able to reprogram my radio and if that is possible, I will let you know so you can save 100s of dollars and not have to ship it anywhere.
Hope this clears up the confusion.
VGMStudios,
I figured ForScan was something like that, just wanted clarification. Does it require a special or particular Bluetooth ODBCII device or will any of the cheap eBay ones work? I've got a cheapo, just use it for pulling codes and clearing errors. Sounds like you need a pc version of software, the phone version won't work? If it's Bluetooth my Surface Pro should work fine for that. Where do I get that software and approximately how much is it? I hate investing too much in that type of stuff because it becomes obsolete pretty quickly. I used to have the AutoTap setup on my old XP pc, I kept it (old pc) around for years just to use that software. Hard to drive around with that big old bulky plug sticking in your leg so eventually just got a cheap Bluetooth one and ditched the old XP pc and Autotap.
Maybe getting ahead of myself here, guess I'd like to know it works before buying anything. Like I said, from what I've learned from sending it back and forth so many times I think the only thing I need to do to make it work is turn the Subwoofer on. I'll probably have them turn the External Amp off as well since you and someone else in the thread show it to be off, although it seems to work fine with it turned on. It's a little quite, but I don't know that part will change as I am probably still using the internal Amp? I just have no subs, or really hardly any base.
4/5/19, 02:10 PM
