Louver replacement for quarter window glass
2/4/07, 09:59 AM
#741
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Email sent. One question thou, Is that black on the non visibility areas on 2, and 3. or is that the same body color and just looks black because of the angles. I am hoping that it is all the same body color except for the visibility areas, and hopefully looks black from the inside except visibility I guess. OH yah you mention #4 but there are only 3 showing. Thanks for all your hardwork Marcello.
2/4/07, 11:19 AM
#742
I lust for a M24
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One question thou, Is that black on the non visibility areas on 2, and 3. or is that the same body color and just looks black because of the angles. I am hoping that it is all the same body color except for the visibility areas, and hopefully looks black from the inside except visibility I guess.
Think of it as a layering system. The first coat of paint (primer) goes on the outside and is black. Therefore, when you look from the inside you see that black layer. Then, the bodycolor and clear are applied to the outside also.
No paint actually goes on the 'inside' of the louver. It's just that you see black from the inside, because the undermost layer of paint (primer from the outside) is black.
At least that's the way I'm thinking he's going to do it.
2/4/07, 03:25 PM
#743
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Wow they look amazing and the price for paint is more than reasonable. I'm still going to wait untill I see some install pics before pulling the trigger. Even though everyday that goes by I lean more towards pulling the trigger.
2/4/07, 09:03 PM
#744
05GT has hit is right on the head - there was an issue if we tried to just paint the body color on the part, inside the tint of the piece would make some "interesting" color shifts - Screamin Yellow became burnt sunflower, Windevil became flat dark blue, etc... so the system we chose to go with is:
Black primer - so that no matter the color, from the inside the color is black - this tends to look good whether the car has a black, grey, or tan interior.
Sealer (if required) on some colors, like Screamin Yellow, the color does not cover well, and since you don't want too much film build to get good coverage, you need to seal out between the black primer and the bright yellow - hence a neutral to light color sealer. Otherwise you'd have 5-6 color coats, which would then make the paint want to chip too easily.
Color coat - here, we are applying whatever color is required for your car - the painter has already done other parts for Legend Lime, Redfire, Torch Red, Screamin Yellow, and Windevil cars, and has had good results using the good paint and supplying the VIN to the paint supply shop to insure a good match.
Clearcoat - just like the OEM finish, we're doing a basecoat / clearcoat system, which should give the part a nice long service life without needing to be repainted.
FYI - paint has not gotten cheaper through the years, and some of this stuff is over 60.00 a pint! Even in gallons, it is not cheap, and doesn't make much sense to buy it that way unless we get deluged with one color, which has not happened yet, although Tungsten currently seems to be the #1 request. Please have patience as we sort through this - there are a lot of emails coming in rather quickly to line up for the color matching. Either myself or my beautiful assistant will be calling within the next few days to confirm the email requests.
Thanks !!
Now we just need some installed customer photos for the website!!
Black primer - so that no matter the color, from the inside the color is black - this tends to look good whether the car has a black, grey, or tan interior.
Sealer (if required) on some colors, like Screamin Yellow, the color does not cover well, and since you don't want too much film build to get good coverage, you need to seal out between the black primer and the bright yellow - hence a neutral to light color sealer. Otherwise you'd have 5-6 color coats, which would then make the paint want to chip too easily.
Color coat - here, we are applying whatever color is required for your car - the painter has already done other parts for Legend Lime, Redfire, Torch Red, Screamin Yellow, and Windevil cars, and has had good results using the good paint and supplying the VIN to the paint supply shop to insure a good match.
Clearcoat - just like the OEM finish, we're doing a basecoat / clearcoat system, which should give the part a nice long service life without needing to be repainted.
FYI - paint has not gotten cheaper through the years, and some of this stuff is over 60.00 a pint! Even in gallons, it is not cheap, and doesn't make much sense to buy it that way unless we get deluged with one color, which has not happened yet, although Tungsten currently seems to be the #1 request. Please have patience as we sort through this - there are a lot of emails coming in rather quickly to line up for the color matching. Either myself or my beautiful assistant will be calling within the next few days to confirm the email requests.
Thanks !!
Now we just need some installed customer photos for the website!!
2/4/07, 09:08 PM
#745
I lust for a M24
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2/4/07, 09:12 PM
#746
Yeah, the wire is the deal to do this I think.
I am eagerly awaiting the kits though, as I've always had to use pliers on both ends of the wire, and never really liked doing it that way. The kits we are getting have the T-handles on both ends, which may make for a very easy job of it, since most of the time is spent watching you don't whack the glass with the pliers or lose your grip on the wire...
I'll get them out just as soon as we have "pairs" of them to ship! Driver's sides alone don't do anyone much good
I am eagerly awaiting the kits though, as I've always had to use pliers on both ends of the wire, and never really liked doing it that way. The kits we are getting have the T-handles on both ends, which may make for a very easy job of it, since most of the time is spent watching you don't whack the glass with the pliers or lose your grip on the wire...
I'll get them out just as soon as we have "pairs" of them to ship! Driver's sides alone don't do anyone much good
2/5/07, 06:17 PM
#751
Yes - the email for Unique Automotive is only if you want to do something really "custom" that we aren't. So please stop filling the inbox for them with "normal" paint option - they are being nice and forwarding the emails for now.
Cutting wire, T-handles that the wire attaches to. It is not a common tool, hence why we are carrying it.
You'd still need the urethane sealer as well to finish the job, but with the three items and a normal set of sockets, you'd be all set.
Cutting wire, T-handles that the wire attaches to. It is not a common tool, hence why we are carrying it.
You'd still need the urethane sealer as well to finish the job, but with the three items and a normal set of sockets, you'd be all set.
2/6/07, 07:45 AM
#754
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Wow, How did I miss this thread?!
Spent last night and this morning getting caught up and I love these louvers!
I think I'll wait for the smoke to clear then order them this spring and get them unpainted and get them and some new spoilers installed at the same time.
Awesome product!
Spent last night and this morning getting caught up and I love these louvers!
I think I'll wait for the smoke to clear then order them this spring and get them unpainted and get them and some new spoilers installed at the same time.
Awesome product!
2/6/07, 07:41 PM
#755
E mail sent to you Marcello with all the info that you requested, never got a reply, hope you got it. I want visible paint, 1 tube of the caulking, and NO toolkit
CANT WAIT!
CANT WAIT!
2/7/07, 12:59 AM
#757
No, we're getting the emails, but it's normally up to me to respond to everyone, and we're just too busy at the moment to do it - rest assured the calls will be coming in the coming days. The inbox is backing up pretty quick, but everyone is doing a pretty good job of getting us the information required, so thanks!
BTW - passenger side started production at a little after 9 pm tonight. I was there from 2-3 this afternoon, and we at one point had 5 guys working to tear down and re-assemble the mold to modify it as required to get it running right.
Let's just say that the passenger side is now "right" in more ways than just being on the right side of the car. I am very impressed. I didn't take any photos tonight, although I wish I had - it was really something
A forklift, 5 guys, two tons of steel and aluminum 3 layers each, 300 tons of pressure at a little over 500 degrees Farenheit, 4,000 pounds of resin pellets and you guys get louvers after what - 9 months of work?
Anyway, it's late again as usual, but I just wanted everyone to know we are ON SCHEDULE to start shipping next week - obviously pre-paint is going to slow us down a little to start, because we're not doing every color, just what is ordered for now to get everyone taken care of. After we're caught up, then we will start to inventory the colors as well as the unpainted ones for our normal same or next day turnaround.
RedDragon - you still need to paint the outside edge at a minimum to hide the glue line. The only downside to molding a transparent part is that the glue line shows through if there is no paint on it whatsoever. But you can just paint the outer edge black, and call it a day - and that could be done from the inside even, although I'd recommend you probably go from the outside as there are "flow" marks in that area of the part sometimes that we consider a normal feature and not a flaw (big flow marks in the transparent slats are what turns a piece into shredded chips...) As to the tint % - we targeted 30%, but the initial test run came out a little lighter - but when it goes in the car it tends to darken up a bit, so 30% is a good start point. You really need to mount them first and then do the tint to match depending on how they come out. I have 30% on my car, and it is darker than the louvers if you just put it next to one another, but you've seen the photos - when it goes in it is almost black, and there is only paint on the edge of the one pictured on our car currently - although that will be changing here shortly
BTW - passenger side started production at a little after 9 pm tonight. I was there from 2-3 this afternoon, and we at one point had 5 guys working to tear down and re-assemble the mold to modify it as required to get it running right.
Let's just say that the passenger side is now "right" in more ways than just being on the right side of the car. I am very impressed. I didn't take any photos tonight, although I wish I had - it was really something
A forklift, 5 guys, two tons of steel and aluminum 3 layers each, 300 tons of pressure at a little over 500 degrees Farenheit, 4,000 pounds of resin pellets and you guys get louvers after what - 9 months of work?
Anyway, it's late again as usual, but I just wanted everyone to know we are ON SCHEDULE to start shipping next week - obviously pre-paint is going to slow us down a little to start, because we're not doing every color, just what is ordered for now to get everyone taken care of. After we're caught up, then we will start to inventory the colors as well as the unpainted ones for our normal same or next day turnaround.
RedDragon - you still need to paint the outside edge at a minimum to hide the glue line. The only downside to molding a transparent part is that the glue line shows through if there is no paint on it whatsoever. But you can just paint the outer edge black, and call it a day - and that could be done from the inside even, although I'd recommend you probably go from the outside as there are "flow" marks in that area of the part sometimes that we consider a normal feature and not a flaw (big flow marks in the transparent slats are what turns a piece into shredded chips...) As to the tint % - we targeted 30%, but the initial test run came out a little lighter - but when it goes in the car it tends to darken up a bit, so 30% is a good start point. You really need to mount them first and then do the tint to match depending on how they come out. I have 30% on my car, and it is darker than the louvers if you just put it next to one another, but you've seen the photos - when it goes in it is almost black, and there is only paint on the edge of the one pictured on our car currently - although that will be changing here shortly
2/7/07, 06:30 AM
#758
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Great news as always Marcello. BTW, I sent my email to the paint place by mistake (I clicked on the address that was sent to me in the newsletter). Did they forward my reply? I only want the louvers, NO paint, and NO tools. Can't wait for these in a few weeks. 
BTW, I sent my email to the paint place by mistake (I clicked on the address that was sent to me in the newsletter). Did they forward my reply? I only want the louvers, NO paint, and NO tools. Can't wait for these in a few weeks.
2/7/07, 03:02 PM
#759
legacy Tms Member
A forklift, 5 guys, two tons of steel and aluminum 3 layers each, 300 tons of pressure at a little over 500 degrees Farenheit, 4,000 pounds of resin pellets and you guys get louvers after what - 9 months of work?
congrats! Hope you guys sell tons of these
While we're all patiently(or impatiently) waiting, its easy to forget just how big an undertaking this is for someone to dive into- hats off to all the guys and gals at silverhorse- maybe you can even supply FoMoCo, they should consider offering these as a factory option... definitely the best looking setup to date by far!
Think I'll go wash my car tonight, pop the interior panels and start getting ready to knock them windows out
with all the snow I'm going thru mustang withdrawl...
2/7/07, 04:23 PM
#760
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