Louver replacement for quarter window glass
7/16/06, 05:37 PM
#222
legacy Tms Member
ahh...smoked- that would make it easier I think. for some reason I thought I'd read clear lexan somewhere...so simply masking the inside, painting black, masking outside, shooting color and its done (still think some expanded metal(plastic) dropins would be cool- on the smoked, perhaps silver or even the 'woven stainless' appearing stuff(saw a 67 at a show a couple days ago- looked like woven wire screening...very cool to provide masks- Ive scrapped a couple heli canopies over the years from paint boo-boos...youre right about safer to paint on the outside. btw- anyone out there know if anything 'special' required to paint lexan? I ve always used 'polycarbonate' paint- it melts right into the surface- but have never seen a primer designed to go between lexan and auto paint- perhaps just scuff and epoxy primer???just curious...keep up the good work!
ps- looking at your fuel doors-ever thought about locking versions? perhaps with hidden magnetic lock so no keyhole- weve got some coded magnetic locks at work that you unlock by holding a 'key' next to it- with gas how it is, wont be long some folks will be driving cars worth less than the gas in thier tanks...
ps- looking at your fuel doors-ever thought about locking versions? perhaps with hidden magnetic lock so no keyhole- weve got some coded magnetic locks at work that you unlock by holding a 'key' next to it- with gas how it is, wont be long some folks will be driving cars worth less than the gas in thier tanks...
7/16/06, 05:46 PM
#223
No special requirements on the paint, just don't soak the parts in thinner...
The reason you have special paints on R/C stuff (and I had to research this too) is because of the flexing of the parts from being so thin. With our piece, it is the same thickness as the OEM glass, so flexing had better not be an issue (if it is, I'm guessing you are trying to set a land-speed record...)
As to magnetic locks - if you have some info on them, I'd love to look into them, but I don't want to muck up our doors with an external lock right now. As to cars less than their gas - those are the ones we need to siphon from then!
The reason you have special paints on R/C stuff (and I had to research this too) is because of the flexing of the parts from being so thin. With our piece, it is the same thickness as the OEM glass, so flexing had better not be an issue (if it is, I'm guessing you are trying to set a land-speed record...)
As to magnetic locks - if you have some info on them, I'd love to look into them, but I don't want to muck up our doors with an external lock right now. As to cars less than their gas - those are the ones we need to siphon from then!
7/16/06, 06:20 PM
#224
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I used to work in an auto glass shop. Hopefully the glass will come out the same way the side glass in an x-cab Ranger does. Unbolts from the inside with a rope seal. If so, the glass can be removed without damage. If it is set in urathane and has to be cut out, it will be very difficult and time consuming.
On your quarter panel that you used for a test fit, are there bolt holes for the glass?
On your quarter panel that you used for a test fit, are there bolt holes for the glass?
7/16/06, 06:56 PM
#225
We have both the OEM fender and glass - there are no bolts, ala the 79-93 Mustang quarter windows. It is a urethane set-in piece, and we'll need to work on that part of it a bit for the DIY guys. (me being one of them...)
7/16/06, 09:11 PM
#227
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Originally Posted by SilverHorseRacing
We have both the OEM fender and glass - there are no bolts, ala the 79-93 Mustang quarter windows. It is a urethane set-in piece, and we'll need to work on that part of it a bit for the DIY guys. (me being one of them...)
7/16/06, 09:23 PM
#228
legacy Tms Member
Originally Posted by BurntPony
That sucks. I have cut out that type of glass. I did it from the inside first with a regular cutout blade, then with a small sharp pocket knife. It takes 2 people, one on the inside doing the cutting, one on the outside watching that the blade doesnt come through and damage the paint. A very tricky job.
7/16/06, 09:53 PM
#229
legacy Tms Member
Originally Posted by SilverHorseRacing
No special requirements on the paint, just don't soak the parts in thinner...
The reason you have special paints on R/C stuff (and I had to research this too) is because of the flexing of the parts from being so thin. With our piece, it is the same thickness as the OEM glass, so flexing had better not be an issue (if it is, I'm guessing you are trying to set a land-speed record...)
As to magnetic locks - if you have some info on them, I'd love to look into them, but I don't want to muck up our doors with an external lock right now. As to cars less than their gas - those are the ones we need to siphon from then!
The reason you have special paints on R/C stuff (and I had to research this too) is because of the flexing of the parts from being so thin. With our piece, it is the same thickness as the OEM glass, so flexing had better not be an issue (if it is, I'm guessing you are trying to set a land-speed record...)
As to magnetic locks - if you have some info on them, I'd love to look into them, but I don't want to muck up our doors with an external lock right now. As to cars less than their gas - those are the ones we need to siphon from then!
http://adstrategiesandproducts.com/M...oduct_Code=KMP
I have no idea what makes them tick...just thinking a cool 'magnetic pony' keyring to pop a smooth gas filler door would be kinda neat...too bad ford didnt put a inside release...
expecting to see 4 bucks a gallon soon if the mideast stuff keeps on(unlikely to end), and bet thieves with a hose will be sucking gas more and more often...just thought perhaps a mag key might be a neat option instead of a keyhole.
7/17/06, 04:47 PM
#230
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Marcello, I'm in for a set!!! That is EXACTLY what I was wishing for, when I started this thread back after SEMA! I just hope the process to get the glass out isn't too hard and costly.
7/17/06, 08:00 PM
#232
Why yes, but then you still have to deal with the glue....
Actually, I don't think it will be all that bad - I might even try to cut one out this weekend to see how it goes, depending on my schedule. Obviously I'll need to work on this a bit to get the directions right, and there might be some good tools on the market already that become part of a DIY kit that becomes a companion to this kit.
Why can't everyone just go buy new quarter panels like I did? I swear that I have most of a second Mustang running around here in bits and pieces now - how did this happen again!? (It seems for every Mustang I get, I end up with 2-3 cars worth of parts to support them...)
Actually, I don't think it will be all that bad - I might even try to cut one out this weekend to see how it goes, depending on my schedule. Obviously I'll need to work on this a bit to get the directions right, and there might be some good tools on the market already that become part of a DIY kit that becomes a companion to this kit.
Why can't everyone just go buy new quarter panels like I did?
I swear that I have most of a second Mustang running around here in bits and pieces now - how did this happen again!? (It seems for every Mustang I get, I end up with 2-3 cars worth of parts to support them...)
7/18/06, 10:06 AM
#235
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Removing auto glas set in with the goop....make slit between glass and metal frame.....slide guitar string or piano wire through and then hold onto both ends and gently slide back and forth and work your way around the glass. You may want a second person to help as its kinda hard to be inside and outside at he same time.
Lexan is enamal receptive and doesnt need anything to get paint to stick. Provided you use the proper paint. As someone mentioned the flexing creates a problem when you dont use the right stuff. Dont use windex on Lexan ever. It causes what is called crazing. Use a cleaner designed for it. You can buy it at auto parts places or boat places like Boaters World or NAPA.
Lexan is enamal receptive and doesnt need anything to get paint to stick. Provided you use the proper paint. As someone mentioned the flexing creates a problem when you dont use the right stuff. Dont use windex on Lexan ever. It causes what is called crazing. Use a cleaner designed for it. You can buy it at auto parts places or boat places like Boaters World or NAPA.
7/18/06, 12:41 PM
#237
Click on the big blurry blob above for the picture of the prototype in a quarter panel. More will be forthcoming as we get closer with things. We are producing them, so it's not a pipe dream, just need to get a little closer than where we are before we start all kinds of photo ops for it.
7/18/06, 06:57 PM
#238
Marcello - off topic!
Check the regional threads - I wasn't able to make the MEET this past Saturday - MTAS and I are putting together another one in August (As sept travel time will be taken up by the Birtmingham MCA show trip) - see if you are free on one of the two dates. Would love to see your ride and meet ya.
DAVE
Check the regional threads - I wasn't able to make the MEET this past Saturday - MTAS and I are putting together another one in August (As sept travel time will be taken up by the Birtmingham MCA show trip) - see if you are free on one of the two dates. Would love to see your ride and meet ya.
DAVE
7/18/06, 08:37 PM
#239
I'd love to, but I can tell you now that every waking moment I have will be dedicated to the September show in August (other than our products, answering phones, etc...) so I don't think I can do another one in August. Make it October when it cools down some, and we could probably make a day of it - or just come to the PRI show in December - we'll have our car in our sponsor's booths.
7/19/06, 07:21 AM
#240
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Yeah, I couldn't make it either, something came up at the moment that I was leaving to RR... I can probably do August, or October. I was so mad after I saw the pics of the meet, I really wanted to be there