Is there any special thing we need to know when we install these springs?
or is is it a no brainer install? for those of you who have done it already, please chime in. thanks

 

Pretty easy. Make sure the new spring cups are on the new springs and that the old spring cups are removed with the old springs. The new spring cups go down against the pivot points. Get you a container or some newspaper to place parts in/on because they're covered in grease.

 

Yeah, they come with instructions that are pretty detailed.

 

So all new shifters come loaded with the progressive springs?

My MGW shifter should be here any day now... can't wait to do the install.

Please chime in shifter users! How many turns do YOU like? I hear the gamut, am curious to know what the consensus is (and YES I know it's a personal thing, but I'd like a starting point)

 

I like 9, where I'm at, but might go to 12 for a while, when I try out the progressive springs, just to see how that is.

 

I'm in the sweet spot... 6 turns out.

 

I started out with 11 turns then went to 6 turns. 11 was a little notchy, 6 is the sweet spot for me. I have also adjusted the the shifter shank bracket in many different configurations and found my sweet spot. I moved it a little to the passenger side, and now I seem to have a little more leverage with the heavy springs. when I had the bracket in a straight manner, it was hard to move it over to the left, if that makes any sense.

 

OK, I just installed the new springs, and now this thing is a breeze to shift.
It was smooth before, but now it's just a little more relaxing to shift.

question here for the people that installed the weaker springs:
while in neutral moving the shifter side to side, do you get a clicking noise (kind of like theres something loose)? I didnt have it when the stronger springs were in.
I just want to make sure this is normal. It doesnt make the noise when you move the shifter slow side to side in neutral, it's when you shake it side to side in a fast motion in neutral. It doesnt affect the shifting in any way nor does it rattle while driving.
I checked to make sure everything was tight two times and everything was fine. drove it, and shifted it hard, no problems.
I'm thinking it's just the weaker springs not making it as tight....It's not a big deal and I don't want to seem like I'm nit picking but just want to make sure.

 

I just checked mine, no clicking. Did you remove the old spring cups?

 

MGW Shifter Review




INTRODUCTION

I installed my MGW shifter today. Install time was about 2.5 hours doing all of the work by myself.

I did not bother taking any pictures because TacoBill has already done an excellent job of it. You can see it here;

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=63236



OPENING THE BOX


When the DHL man drops off your shifter and you open the box, the first two things that will impress you are;

1. The quality of the machine work. Everything you look at is extreamly well made. Any machinist would be proud to put his name on this shifter.

2. The completness of the kit. MGW has included everything that you could possibly need to do a professional installation.



INSTALLATION

Even though the installation manual did not include any pictures, it was easy to follow the directions. If you want pictures you can look at the TacoBill link shown above or go to the MGW web site to watch a video.

http://www.mgwltd.com/mustang2005_shifter.shtml



Removing the factory shifter is not very difficult. From inside the car you remove part of the center console, the shifter boot and the shifter dust seal.

From under the car you only have to remove 1 bolt and 3 nuts.

Installation of the new shifter is nearly as easy, There are just a few additional bolts to install and the application of the sound deadening material (included in the kit).

Unlike the factory shifter, the MGW shifter is completely adjustable. There is an adjustable block on the bottom of the shifter to adjust the length of throw. The maximum adjustment is 12 turns, counterclockwise. This setting will give you a 50% reduction in throw as compared to the factory shifter. I installed my shifter with the block turned out 9 revolutions.

The shaft that the shift **** mounts to is adjustable up and down and side to side. This allows you to center the shaft within the console opening and to set the height of the **** to your liking. Because I liked the height of the factory shifter, I set the MGW shifter to the same height.


DRIVING IMPRESSIONS

The original shifter is pretty good as factory shifters go, but it feels like a dead fish compared to the MGW. The factory shifter is very smooth and quiet, but it is also sloppy. In comparison, the MGW shifter feels very firm and precise. There is no slop or wasted motion.

As you row through the gears you notice the throws are very short and positive. There is a solid feeling as you choose each gear. There is no question if you are in a gear or not. You can feel each one engage in a very positive manner.

The 2-3 shift is perfect. Just push the shift **** forward out of second and it will hit 3rd all by itself. If you had problems with third gear with the factory shifter then the MGW is your answer.

In my experience, the effort required to operate the shifter is not much greater that the force required on the factory shifter. The exception is 1st and 5th. Those two gears require a little extra effort but not in an objectionalble way.

After a day of driving I only want to make one change. I think I will adjust the throw from 9 to 11 or 12. When you first operate the shifter with 9 turns out the throws feel very short. But once you get used to it you might want it to be even shorter. I like 9 but I'm gonna give 12 a try.

The only negative I have is noise. The original shifter and dust boot did a very good job of keeping noise out of the cabin. Despite the application of the Dynamat and the other sound deadner provided with the MGW, I did notice the intrusion of transmission noise into the cabin. Mind you, in my opinion it is not excessive. In fact, I kind of like the racy sound but some people might be bothered so I felt obligated to report it. If it begins to bother me then I will just go back with a second layer of Dynamat to take care of it.

Since I have no experience with the Hurst or Pro5.0 I cannot provide a comparisson. I can however give my highest reccomendation to the MGW. With its state-of-the-art engineering, quality of construction and full adjustability, this is the last shifter you will ever need for the S197 Mustang.

Mark

 

Safarisun, great review. You're the only other one, besides me, to mention the added noise from the MGW shifter. You're right it's not an issue but it does exist.

Which springs are you using? I noticed when I installed the progressive springs I wanted to shorten the shift throw. I went from 2 turns to 8 turns and I might try a shorter throw.

 

For those curious how these new springs get installed...

Progressive Springs Install (for beta group only)

 

Dude, the minimum recommendation is 6 turns. Good thing that you went to 8.

 

I am using the regular springs. I have not yet tried to progressives.

Mark

 

actually there really is not a minumum as i am currently only out about 4 turns and i think that is my preference. the only limit is the MAX turns which is 12.

also, converninig the noise, you really need to look at taco bills install and see how he sealed the shifter from the bottom with the extra dynamat. it really eliminates the air/noise from coming up.


the left to right metallic noise from the new springs will actually lessen when they get some grease packed into them from usage. it is perfectly normal.


regards
george

 

I installed my new MGW shifter today- I got to use my buddys lift. The lift made what would have been a tough job laying on my back (Hey, I'm 61- give me a break) pretty easy.
I set the throw adjustment to 6 turns out, I may go back to 4. Hey, does this think "loosen up" any with a little use? It seems a bit tight to me. I tightened the locknut on the linkage pretty tight per TacoBill's instructions. I wonder if I need to loosen is just a tad?? Sometimes when I go for first, I end up in third. Mine is supposed to have come with the progressive springs loaded. The hardest part for me was tightening the two bolts on the saddle clamp holding the front rod support. Would have been a lot easier if I had dropped the front part of the driveshaft- but I finally got it.
Like I said, I am at 6 turns out- this is almost too short for an old dude. Gonna drive it for a while before I make a decesion to lenghten it just a bit. I want to play around a bit with the shifter **** rod and clamp to see if I can dial it in.
My buddy is an aerospace engineer and a Chevy guy to boot, and he was very impressed with the quality George built into this shifter. I drove home with the top down, so I can't make any judgements about noise, but I used a lot of DynaMat so I expect it will be quiet. No harshness or vibration whatsoever.
Thank you George, you gave us one hell of a fine shifter. Anybody that thinks the price is too stiff should just continue using the stock shifter. I don't mind paying a little more for something that delivers more. This shifter delivers! I'm proud to be a "Beta tester"

 

Yeah, the bolts on the saddle clamp were tiring on my arms. I had to stop a few times, lower my arms, let them rest a few seconds, back to work again.
Im just not use to wrenching thats for sure.

 

I agree, those saddle clamp bolts were the hardest for me. My ratchet would only go 1 click at a time on one of them.

I swapped the springs out this weekend, and the 1-2 shift is much nicer for me now, but the 2-3 is still pretty smooth. Seems a little less notchy too, although I didn't change the throw adjustment, it's still at 9 turns out.

I might play with that a little more later on, but I am very happy with it the way it is right now.

 

Talked to George today, he said most likely the shifter is fine, not to lossen that locknut on the linkage-it's supposed to be tight. He thinks most likely I just need to get used to the new feel of a precesion shifter over the sloppy stock unit. I think am agreeing. Plus, I think it is freeing up with some use. I'm getting happier by the mile.
I did notice that I was getting a hole in my outer shift boot from the sharp edge of the top lock nut on the black clamp that attaches the shifter **** shaft to the shifter body. I read about this in another post. The problem is solved by turning the black clamp over so the locknuts are on the right side and away from the boot. You guys need to check yours to see if you have a hole developing. I also re adjusted the "sound plate" so it fit a little better.
I also ordered the other shifter shaft-I also have a white Hurst shifter ball so not I will be able to use which ever one I want to. I like the ball, but I also like the black/metal **** that comes with the IUP.
Unless I miss my guess, MGW will sell a ton of these shifters. I love mine!

 

I got my MGW shifter today!!!

Quick question: Isn't this shifter supposed to have the "progressive" springs included in the kit?

I don't have any sets of springs at all (other than the set I presume are in the unit already) so how do I know which springs I have?

Also, were there supposed to be bushings included with the kit?