Well it's Tuesday, where's the pics?

 

 

Wow, very nice JR. I guess you got the MAF calibration down on the 2007's eh?

 

Final testing is this Saturday

 

gotta tighten up those straps for the hood pins a little!

 

Well the cai/mas finally arrived and I immediately tore it out of the box....Unfortunately, the plastic box holding the air filter was broken in 2 places...In my opinion, it is a very thin piece of plastic and should probably have been made from a different grade of plastic, less likely to crack. I ordered the polished unit and this also had a few blemishes that I would have liked not to have seen. There is a little pitting on the unit and the finish around the logo was rough and looked as if it was hit by a grinder. Though this sounds like I'm trashing it, I'm really not. The plastic is being replaced and I can live with the pitting (I will attempt to buff it out myself).
The install went reasonably well. Instructions are not perfect but luckily it's not that difficult. There is a tube that is provided by GMS that they don't show/explain in the instructions and it will replace the shorter unit that goes between the valve cover and the CAI. I mention this because I didn't see that tube when I took everything out and when I tried to use the stock one I freaked since it's about 4" short. First thing to do is put the sleeve over the CAI and then clamp it...This was not an easy task so you want to do it when you can maneuver it. Once that's on, you want to screw the MAS into the CAI. Your almost done...Now just put the Air box on with the 1 10MM stock bolt (instructions say 2 8MM bolts???) but don't tighten it yet. Finally attach the CAI to the T-body and tighten down, not your final tighten yet. You will have to adjust it through the plastic box at this time as well. Once you do that, put the air cleaner on. I found it easiest to put the air filter on, totally undo the hose clamp, slide it around and then tighten....Now do your final tightening of everything, put the hose on between the CAI and valve cover vent and your done, oh, don't forget to attach the MAS wires, and now that's it. Easy install in about 35 to 45 minutes (faster if you follow these instructions...I didn't and it took me a little while longer than it should). Overall I give the unit a 7out of 10. The only low spot is the plastic box. I am still up on blocks since I am doing the exhaust when it arrives so I haven't started it up yet. I will do that tomorrow and let you know if any lights pop on. Below are some of the pictures I took, showing the cracked plastic, the short stock part (remember to use the tubing) , a final shot of the install and even the tubing that I at first missed and a close look at the logo frame.

 

Bill - you are killing me

I told you I would replace the box in the morning. Your picture don;t clearly show pits and I also said I would replace that if you wanted us to . There is a clear film over the GMS logo that needs to be removed that is why it looks dull.

You show a picture of the factory vent tube as if it were too short but that is replaced by the hose we supplied

 

my c&l has a cheapo airbox thing also, who cares though, if it works?! im not a hood popper, i dont care how my engine looks, just how it works!

 

We want everyone happy - And I like hood poppers

 

what i want, is someone who is already tuned with an intake to try yours with the MAF, re tune and see if they get any more! if so, my c&L will go right onto ebay, and ill buy one of yours. i live in NYC, and drive like 100 miles a day, you wouldnt wanna see under my hood lol.

 

It does look like I'm killing you but that's not what I am trying to do. I just have to report what happened and what my opinions are. I truly like the unit's overall looks, yes the plastic was broken but you are replacing it, not a big deal. There are some pitting in the polished unit (little black specs on the picture) and I can hopefully buff them out...Not worth sending back for. The finish around the emblem is not smooth and looks very rough. It's the frame around the emblem and not the emblem...Yes, I did take the plastic off of that. I will post more pictures shortly of the finished unit. Below are pictures of the full side shot of the system, filter and box, shot of the "hose" that replaces the stock piece and the scuffing around the frame of the logo. Like the man said, it's the results that really count.

 

Well I just picked mine up from the UPS place, they couldn't find my house apparently. I'm on my way to my friend's house now and we're going to be installing CAI and t-body.

Meh, I lied. After thinking about it for a second, I didn't want to be trying to rush through an install in the middle of the night, so I'm going over his house tomorrow (Wed) after work and we'll do the install, anyways, first impressions:

Like harleybill above me, my plastic heat shield came cracked where the hole is for the intake/filter connection. It is a very stiff plastic, and in my opinion is in itself a well made design. JR, whatever process you're using to press or cut the hole is causing it to crack. I was able to bend the plastic sides back and forth, and was able to realign the cracks in the plastic. You can't even see it anymore, and plus, on mine the crack was underneath where the intake/filter connection is, so it will be beneath everything and out of sight anyways. Not a biggie for me, but understandably noted.

Second, the intake assembly itself. Uhm, wow. Even if the heat shield is plastic, the intake tube is a monster. It is a heavy piece of aluminum, like 1/4 inch thick, not at all what I expected, I thought it would be flimsier. You could literally use the intake tube as a club, it is that solid. The polish on the tube on mine, like harleybills, is pitted toward the ends. However, if you can picture the process, you can see why. As the tubes come naturally in the satin finish, the polished look comes from someone manually moving the tube around a polisher, so yes, there will be some spots that are not buffed out as much as others, particularly around areas that aren't just flat, making it harder to get to. If you are expecting something like a chrome look, where the product is dipped and every possible area is covered, then you might be disappointed, but if you take it for what it is, then you won't be. I myself like the look, as I said, it is very sturdy, if anything, just tell the guy who is doing the polishing to take his time. The Filter itself is huge, and appears well made.

Third, the t-body. Again, OMG, Wow I got mine anodized red, I figure it should look good with the color inside the engine compartment. Well from the pics on the granatelli site, I expected it to be a bright red, but it was in fact almost like a maroon color, and should match almost perfectly. I can't convey how impressed I was with this unit, read through harleybill's description of his install. I can't wait to see this bad boy on. If you are looking to dress up your engine compartment at all, look into these t-body's in anodized colors.

My Ford plenum cover also is supposed to arrive tomorrow, so I'll swing by here after work, pick it up, and head on over to my friends house for the complete install. Of course I'll work on pics. Wish me luck.

 

You might have to modify the Ford Plenum Cover to fit with the Granatelli Throttle Body. From what I recall, the plenum cover dips down on the front of the mounting plate where the bolts hold the tb to the intake plenum, and with the bigger tb openings and the design being smooth across the top, there's no dip between the two throttle bodies. So you'll have to cut that little dip off. Does that make sense?

I thought about that the first time I saw the pics of the new Ford plenum cover. I've got the Midwest plenum cover, which doesn't have that same front detail, so I won't have to worry about that when I get my tb to install on my '07.

Anyway, can't wait to see the pics, and read your impressions of the whole package.

 

Great reviews guys!!! I'm glad your happy with yours. In the end, I just didn't want to take a chance on something like this. So I went with the JLT/xcal combo from bama. Cost me a bit more, but the peace of mind was worth it......

 

Well I took it out for a ride this morning and boy what a difference...The sound when you press the pedal down is just awesome and you can really feel the difference (and no, there were no engine lights or anything). I truly think this is the best TRIO that you can add to your motor without a power adder like a turbo or SC. A tune might add something (what I don't know) cuz the response is better, gas mileage might be better and the sound is for sure more beefier. Lets just say I am most happy. GMS did say that they are trying to upgrade the plastic boxes and should yours be broken in transit, GMS will gladly replace it...I would imagine if too many of these get broken that they will quickly change moldings and then there won't be a bloody thing to crab about. Just sit back and Enjoy the ride guys cuz your gonna like this, believe me.

 

I am sure you will enjoy what you have but the words "should a waited" are first to come to my mind. THis is why I waited a couple of years before I jumped into getting one of these type of units. I wanted to let the engineers come up with a good design that works with the electronics. I believe this is the unit and I highly recommend it. (NO GMS is not paying me.... )....Oh, go with the T-Body, even with your combo....You won't be dissapointed.

 

I hear ya but we never said our part would make more power then the next guys kit - We believe it does though. Our dyno tests have shown our product make as much as any other part tested. If you have a C&L be happy

 

Lastly, you alwasy have the option of purchasing our part without the electronics. I spoke with Bamachips today and we are now on the same page.

 

Things are being misquoted, and numbers are not adding up in the above.

(1) In the 1st 2 quotes, Granatelli states that an additional 23.7 hp was generated by the his CAI/MAF/TB, while in the 3rd quote Granatelli states that the 23.7 hp was generated by just his CAI/MAF.

(2) In the 3rd quote Granatelli states that his CAI/MAF/TB/2.5" catback exhaust generates a total additional 48.3 hp vs. bone stock. Assuming the correct fact in (1) is that his CAI/MAF/TB add 23.7 hp, then an additional 24.6 hp is generated(48.3 - 23.7) by just installing his 2.5" catback exhaust system.
That's a lot of extra hp being generated by just a catback exhaust. In fact, it adds approx. as much hp as a combined long tube header/catless X or H pipe system. And that's unheard of.

Would you please explain these discrepancies, Granatelli?

 

I am obviously not JR but I think even I can answer this to some extent just from what I was reading in his answers. Your correct in that he says he got 23HP and 9ft.lbs with the CAI & Calibrated MAS WITHOUT the t-body. Now, you add the T-body (another 8 HP and maybe more since it has the other combo) and your up to 31 hp. Add the exhaust (rated at 15 on a STOCK unit) and you have about 46 HP (48.3 to quote the dyno). I don't see any problem with how things add up? Remember, each piece adds a little more to the mix and all 4 items are up in the high 40 hp range...DANG GOOD if you ask me (and not exagerated).