Granatelli Intake w/new MAF???
Please........pretty please!!!
10/3/06, 04:00 PM
#464
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JR, did you all figure out any time frame on the shiney stuff. Like I said before the guy really didnt have a date for me when I may get it. I understand you had some issues with a new chromer etc. If possible could you see when you may be caught up? Thank you for any info JR. Looking forward to your products. I like what I see.
10/3/06, 10:24 PM
#465
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Well after waiting a month for My Cold air and TB in red I might add, I had mine installed today. I got the unit with the adapter for the MAF. That works great on a stock tune or slightly modified tune. My major issue came from the TB unit. we fought with it for most of the day. Turns out the blades were not adjusted correctly. I made a call when Granatelli opened this morning and got a response to "disconnect the battery for a hour" (not in the instructions), My Tuner laughed and said that ain't gonna fix it. My tuner was right. After installing and pulling it apart at least 6 times we found a sticking sensation. Now at first install this thing was throwing codes like crazy and the throttle was locked, pushing the gas had no effect at all. code was a 2112 I believe but I may be wrong but it was close to this. Anyway after testing it a friend of mine showed up at the shop and he has a Granatelli TB as well. we swapped his on and it worked like a champ. This at least let my tuner work some magic on the car while we tried to fix the TB. we pulled it apart for the 7th time and put it on my buddies car. Low and behold it worked.
So we swap stuff back and he leaves and darned if the codes went flying again after a 2 minute run. The sticking was back. Looking in the TB we noticed that there were marks from the plates hitting the bore. we adjusted the stop screw out just a hair and I haven't had any more trouble so far. Here is what we think the real issue is. No where in the instructions does it mention adjusting the screw nor did tech support offer that idea, the factory unit had a spring loaded stop screw and now we understand why. when the motor and the return spring closes the throttle it wedges in the bore, on the stock unit that secondary spring in the stop screw pops it open just a hair to unstick it.
Please don't take this as a knock on Granatelli's stuff it is a awesome piece of equipment and I am very satisfied with the results but in the time it took us to get this working my tuners worker did a gear swap and put on a set of painted valve covers on a 07 Roush. OUCH.
The actual swap and install of the throttle body took 15 minutes the frustration lasted for 4 hours. If I could change anything it would be in the instructions to check that when pressed closed the flaps don't stick and if they do to adjust the set screw. and get rid of the last line that says "now go have fun"....lol
Back to the cold air kit. To get the unit to give us correct numbers when tuning we had to remove the jumper from the new maf. after that we got down to some real tuning and ended up making and additional 9 ft lbs of tq and 15 hp with the cold air and TB.
the real gains wern t so much in peaks but the duration was extended much farther over the RPM range than before.
I was peaking the Torque over 300 from 3800 to 5300 rpm. that was around a 700 rpm increase before we only tripped 300 from 4100 to just at 4900rpm.
The low end tq went up as well the torque just jumps almost straight up at 2000 rpm and then levels out somewhat with a slow steady clime to 3800 then a little leap till 4500 with a slow drop from there to 6200.
I know my increases don't match some of what you have seen but The real improvements to the new stangs come from the tune. once a car has a tune the mods wont cause the big leaps you see unless it is a power adder like NOS or a turbo and the like.
The main thing is that I have put just under 1k in the motor with mods and have jumped it up over 60 ft lbs of TQ and almost the same in HP. I am very satisfied with what I have and it looks awesome.
Here are the Pros
The Cold air kit with the Maf can be run safely on a car with a factory tune. You don't need to tune it but it does run a little fat or Rich than stock so that keeps it safe. Removing the jumper and getting a tune and people will flip at the difference.
Same with the Granatelli TB it made our mild-tune run fat and by tweaking it we saw the numbers rise and the improvements became noticeable.
The throttle body could also be run with out a tune but I highly recommend getting a Dyno and Tune to get the best bang for the buck.
JR thanks for some great items I think I will be ordering the coil pack connectors next.
With problems come knowledge and I hope my little experience will help the next guy save time on his project.
So we swap stuff back and he leaves and darned if the codes went flying again after a 2 minute run. The sticking was back. Looking in the TB we noticed that there were marks from the plates hitting the bore. we adjusted the stop screw out just a hair and I haven't had any more trouble so far. Here is what we think the real issue is. No where in the instructions does it mention adjusting the screw nor did tech support offer that idea, the factory unit had a spring loaded stop screw and now we understand why. when the motor and the return spring closes the throttle it wedges in the bore, on the stock unit that secondary spring in the stop screw pops it open just a hair to unstick it.
Please don't take this as a knock on Granatelli's stuff it is a awesome piece of equipment and I am very satisfied with the results but in the time it took us to get this working my tuners worker did a gear swap and put on a set of painted valve covers on a 07 Roush. OUCH.
The actual swap and install of the throttle body took 15 minutes the frustration lasted for 4 hours. If I could change anything it would be in the instructions to check that when pressed closed the flaps don't stick and if they do to adjust the set screw. and get rid of the last line that says "now go have fun"....lol
Back to the cold air kit. To get the unit to give us correct numbers when tuning we had to remove the jumper from the new maf. after that we got down to some real tuning and ended up making and additional 9 ft lbs of tq and 15 hp with the cold air and TB.
the real gains wern t so much in peaks but the duration was extended much farther over the RPM range than before.
I was peaking the Torque over 300 from 3800 to 5300 rpm. that was around a 700 rpm increase before we only tripped 300 from 4100 to just at 4900rpm.
The low end tq went up as well the torque just jumps almost straight up at 2000 rpm and then levels out somewhat with a slow steady clime to 3800 then a little leap till 4500 with a slow drop from there to 6200.
I know my increases don't match some of what you have seen but The real improvements to the new stangs come from the tune. once a car has a tune the mods wont cause the big leaps you see unless it is a power adder like NOS or a turbo and the like.
The main thing is that I have put just under 1k in the motor with mods and have jumped it up over 60 ft lbs of TQ and almost the same in HP. I am very satisfied with what I have and it looks awesome.
Here are the Pros
The Cold air kit with the Maf can be run safely on a car with a factory tune. You don't need to tune it but it does run a little fat or Rich than stock so that keeps it safe. Removing the jumper and getting a tune and people will flip at the difference.
Same with the Granatelli TB it made our mild-tune run fat and by tweaking it we saw the numbers rise and the improvements became noticeable.
The throttle body could also be run with out a tune but I highly recommend getting a Dyno and Tune to get the best bang for the buck.
JR thanks for some great items I think I will be ordering the coil pack connectors next.
With problems come knowledge and I hope my little experience will help the next guy save time on his project.
10/4/06, 07:10 PM
#466
Former Vendor
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This CAI looks great and all, and when I saw the price earlier on in the thread that was about $350, and after calling Granatelli a few min ago, they gave me a price of $450, said the $350 was a special around 2 months ago. Anyone know how I can get a better price? They also quoted me $500 for the 2.5" exhaust. Thanks
CAI - $375 polished
2.5” Exhaust is $375 as well
So figure $825.00 shipped – these parts are big and come with tons of packing material. Hence the shipping charges
05-07 Mustang GT RADIATORS
- Made in the USA.
- 2 ¼” thick two row (1” per row) all aluminum construction.
- 100% Tig welded construction –not mig welded
- Serrated fin design – multiple micro louvers on each fin to turbulate the air as it passes through the core to absorb more heat.
- Optimal 14 FPI(Fins Per Inch)
- Higher fin counts as seen in competitor radiators cause high pressure across the fontal core area and limit air volume, particularly at low speeds which creates higher idle temps with no noticeable gains at high speed vs. the GMS 14 FPI serrated fin design.
- Fin per inch selection is a function of managing air volume, velocity, cooling fin surface area, cooling fin type, and row construction. It is not simply more is better. (Have you ever installed a cam that was too big?) Some brands on the market have packed their radiators with 18+ fins per inch without understanding the implications of the higher density. The higher the density of the fins makes for higher pressure across the frontal area of the core and limits the volume of air that can pass through the radiator. This higher pressure will also strain electric fans. As the pressure goes up the efficiency of the fan goes down. This problem generates higher idle temperatures with no noticeable gains at cruising speeds.
- Fin count(FPI) is only one variable of the cooling system. Fin angle, fin depth, and fin height all contribute to the heat exchange in the core. Granatelli optimizes these designs to the application.
- Fin height plays a key role in determining the desirable low pressure area and is also the determining factor in how many rows can be constructed into the core.
- Fin depth is the arrangement of the leading edge of the fin to the core. If the fin is overhung there is great risk of damage to the fin from road debris which will quickly diminish cooling by decreasing the volume of air that will pass through the core.
- The degree at which the micro louvered serrations are angled to the air passing through the radiator is fin angle. Increasing the angle captures more incoming air but will also raise the pressure of the core and require.
- Interlocking front and rear accessory attachment points ensures exact fitment every time.
- Jig fixtured using laser cut components to ensure the highest quality every time.
http://www.granatellimotorsports.com/GM-AR0507.jpg
$355.00
JR, did you all figure out any time frame on the shiny stuff. Like I said before the guy really didn’t have a date for me when I may get it. I understand you had some issues with a new chromer etc. If possible could you see when you may be caught up? Thank you for any info JR. Looking forward to your products. I like what I see.
I hate to say it but we have only been able to ship like 80 of the shinny stuff. Chromer failed us so we are back on the polished versions and we have 50 more coming in Thursday.
Well after waiting a month for My Cold air and TB in red I might add, I had mine installed today. I got the unit with the adapter for the MAF. That works great on a stock tune or slightly modified tune. My major issue came from the TB unit. we fought with it for most of the day. Turns out the blades were not adjusted correctly. .
There should have been a big sticker on the outside of the box that says the blades need to be indexed before install
1. Your new GMS throttle body did not come with the blades indexed. Therefore it is important that you index the blades. All too often customers call to state the car is fast idling or surging this is because they forgot to index the blades before installing the drive-by-wire stepper motor.
2. Indexing the blades is easy, using the proper Allen head tool, simply turn the idle screw counter clockwise until it is not touching the inter gear that moves the blades – As shown in the image directly below.
3. With the blades fully shut, turn the adjustment screw in (clock-wise) until the tip of the plunger just begins to tap on the inner gear. (shown above) Now turn the screw in an additional ¼ turn clockwise. – The blades are adjusted! NOTE – You should barely see air between the blades and the bore of the throttle body.
Sorry – They should have asked more questions – you must have got a NEWBY
Again the blades need to be indexed properly
Here is what we think the real issue is. No where in the instructions does it mention adjusting the screw nor did tech support offer that idea, the factory unit had a spring loaded stop screw and now we understand why. when the motor and the return spring closes the throttle it wedges in the bore, on the stock unit that secondary spring in the stop screw pops it open just a hair to unstick it. .
The actual swap and install of the throttle body took 15 minutes the frustration lasted for 4 hours. If I could change anything it would be in the instructions to check that when pressed closed the flaps don't stick and if they do to adjust the set screw. and get rid of the last line that says "now go have fun"....lol .
4. Your new GMS throttle body did not come with the blades indexed. Therefore it is important that you index the blades. All too often customers call to state the car is fast idling or surging this is because they forgot to index the blades before installing the drive-by-wire stepper motor.
5. Indexing the blades is easy, using the proper Allen head tool, simply turn the idle screw counter clockwise until it is not touching the inter gear that moves the blades – As shown in the image directly below.
6. With the blades fully shut, turn the adjustment screw in (clock-wise) until the tip of the plunger just begins to tap on the inner gear. (shown above) Now turn the screw in an additional ¼ turn clockwise. – The blades are adjusted! NOTE – You should barely see air between the blades and the bore of the throttle body.
The Cold air kit with the MAF can be run safely on a car with a factory tune. You don't need to tune it but it does run a little fat or Rich than stock so that keeps it safe. Removing the jumper and getting a tune and people will flip at the difference.
Same with the Granatelli TB it made our mild-tune run fat and by tweaking it we saw the numbers rise and the improvements became noticeable.
The throttle body could also be run with out a tune but I highly recommend getting a Dyno and Tune to get the best bang for the buck.
JR thanks for some great items I think I will be ordering the coil pack connectors next.
With problems come knowledge and I hope my little experience will help the next guy save time on his project.
Same with the Granatelli TB it made our mild-tune run fat and by tweaking it we saw the numbers rise and the improvements became noticeable.
The throttle body could also be run with out a tune but I highly recommend getting a Dyno and Tune to get the best bang for the buck.
JR thanks for some great items I think I will be ordering the coil pack connectors next.
With problems come knowledge and I hope my little experience will help the next guy save time on his project.
To all the guys on the boards – please take a note from MY06STANG.
To all the guys on the boards – please take a note from MY06STANG
He could have and should have been much harder on us for all the crap he went through but like a gentleman he talked about the positives and still made it clear there were a few issues that needed fixing. As I vender I respond to this type of feed back rather then…..
Got the Granatelli stuff – looked great but the t-body worked like junk - blah blah….
My hat is off to you sir and for the 3rd time I humbly hate to hear stuff like this because we do pride ourselves on out of the box perfection.
10/5/06, 07:27 AM
#467
Legacy TMS Member
Well after waiting a month for My Cold air and TB in red I might add, I had mine installed today. I got the unit with the adapter for the MAF. That works great on a stock tune or slightly modified tune. My major issue came from the TB unit. we fought with it for most of the day. Turns out the blades were not adjusted correctly. I made a call when Granatelli opened this morning and got a response to "disconnect the battery for a hour" (not in the instructions), My Tuner laughed and said that ain't gonna fix it. My tuner was right. After installing and pulling it apart at least 6 times we found a sticking sensation. Now at first install this thing was throwing codes like crazy and the throttle was locked, pushing the gas had no effect at all. code was a 2112 I believe but I may be wrong but it was close to this. Anyway after testing it a friend of mine showed up at the shop and he has a Granatelli TB as well. we swapped his on and it worked like a champ. This at least let my tuner work some magic on the car while we tried to fix the TB. we pulled it apart for the 7th time and put it on my buddies car. Low and behold it worked.
So we swap stuff back and he leaves and darned if the codes went flying again after a 2 minute run. The sticking was back. Looking in the TB we noticed that there were marks from the plates hitting the bore. we adjusted the stop screw out just a hair and I haven't had any more trouble so far. Here is what we think the real issue is. No where in the instructions does it mention adjusting the screw nor did tech support offer that idea, the factory unit had a spring loaded stop screw and now we understand why. when the motor and the return spring closes the throttle it wedges in the bore, on the stock unit that secondary spring in the stop screw pops it open just a hair to unstick it.
Please don't take this as a knock on Granatelli's stuff it is a awesome piece of equipment and I am very satisfied with the results but in the time it took us to get this working my tuners worker did a gear swap and put on a set of painted valve covers on a 07 Roush. OUCH.
The actual swap and install of the throttle body took 15 minutes the frustration lasted for 4 hours. If I could change anything it would be in the instructions to check that when pressed closed the flaps don't stick and if they do to adjust the set screw. and get rid of the last line that says "now go have fun"....lol
Back to the cold air kit. To get the unit to give us correct numbers when tuning we had to remove the jumper from the new maf. after that we got down to some real tuning and ended up making and additional 9 ft lbs of tq and 15 hp with the cold air and TB.
the real gains wern t so much in peaks but the duration was extended much farther over the RPM range than before.
I was peaking the Torque over 300 from 3800 to 5300 rpm. that was around a 700 rpm increase before we only tripped 300 from 4100 to just at 4900rpm.
The low end tq went up as well the torque just jumps almost straight up at 2000 rpm and then levels out somewhat with a slow steady clime to 3800 then a little leap till 4500 with a slow drop from there to 6200.
I know my increases don't match some of what you have seen but The real improvements to the new stangs come from the tune. once a car has a tune the mods wont cause the big leaps you see unless it is a power adder like NOS or a turbo and the like.
The main thing is that I have put just under 1k in the motor with mods and have jumped it up over 60 ft lbs of TQ and almost the same in HP. I am very satisfied with what I have and it looks awesome.
Here are the Pros
The Cold air kit with the Maf can be run safely on a car with a factory tune. You don't need to tune it but it does run a little fat or Rich than stock so that keeps it safe. Removing the jumper and getting a tune and people will flip at the difference.
Same with the Granatelli TB it made our mild-tune run fat and by tweaking it we saw the numbers rise and the improvements became noticeable.
The throttle body could also be run with out a tune but I highly recommend getting a Dyno and Tune to get the best bang for the buck.
JR thanks for some great items I think I will be ordering the coil pack connectors next.
With problems come knowledge and I hope my little experience will help the next guy save time on his project.
So we swap stuff back and he leaves and darned if the codes went flying again after a 2 minute run. The sticking was back. Looking in the TB we noticed that there were marks from the plates hitting the bore. we adjusted the stop screw out just a hair and I haven't had any more trouble so far. Here is what we think the real issue is. No where in the instructions does it mention adjusting the screw nor did tech support offer that idea, the factory unit had a spring loaded stop screw and now we understand why. when the motor and the return spring closes the throttle it wedges in the bore, on the stock unit that secondary spring in the stop screw pops it open just a hair to unstick it.
Please don't take this as a knock on Granatelli's stuff it is a awesome piece of equipment and I am very satisfied with the results but in the time it took us to get this working my tuners worker did a gear swap and put on a set of painted valve covers on a 07 Roush. OUCH.
The actual swap and install of the throttle body took 15 minutes the frustration lasted for 4 hours. If I could change anything it would be in the instructions to check that when pressed closed the flaps don't stick and if they do to adjust the set screw. and get rid of the last line that says "now go have fun"....lol
Back to the cold air kit. To get the unit to give us correct numbers when tuning we had to remove the jumper from the new maf. after that we got down to some real tuning and ended up making and additional 9 ft lbs of tq and 15 hp with the cold air and TB.
the real gains wern t so much in peaks but the duration was extended much farther over the RPM range than before.
I was peaking the Torque over 300 from 3800 to 5300 rpm. that was around a 700 rpm increase before we only tripped 300 from 4100 to just at 4900rpm.
The low end tq went up as well the torque just jumps almost straight up at 2000 rpm and then levels out somewhat with a slow steady clime to 3800 then a little leap till 4500 with a slow drop from there to 6200.
I know my increases don't match some of what you have seen but The real improvements to the new stangs come from the tune. once a car has a tune the mods wont cause the big leaps you see unless it is a power adder like NOS or a turbo and the like.
The main thing is that I have put just under 1k in the motor with mods and have jumped it up over 60 ft lbs of TQ and almost the same in HP. I am very satisfied with what I have and it looks awesome.
Here are the Pros
The Cold air kit with the Maf can be run safely on a car with a factory tune. You don't need to tune it but it does run a little fat or Rich than stock so that keeps it safe. Removing the jumper and getting a tune and people will flip at the difference.
Same with the Granatelli TB it made our mild-tune run fat and by tweaking it we saw the numbers rise and the improvements became noticeable.
The throttle body could also be run with out a tune but I highly recommend getting a Dyno and Tune to get the best bang for the buck.
JR thanks for some great items I think I will be ordering the coil pack connectors next.
With problems come knowledge and I hope my little experience will help the next guy save time on his project.
10/5/06, 08:19 AM
#468
THrottle Body ?
Hey JR, I do have one question on the TB....I did follow the instructions to the T on the install, indexing and all. When you start the car it still goes up to about 1200 RPM's before it finally settles back down to around 800. Does this mean that it could use a little adjustment opening the valves a little more or is it just what to expect with the TB upgrade. Just curious. I know that these things don't always come out exact (1/4 turn and such) so maybe it should have been 1/2 turn, etc on mine and maybe others.... What are your thoughts on this. Other than that I still love the whole setup. OH, never an engine code.....Gotta love that.
GMS LCA's
GMS 2 1/2" exhaust (very nice) no drone.
GMS TB, CAI/MAS---Gets a lot of compliments and runs great.
GMS LCA's
GMS 2 1/2" exhaust (very nice) no drone.
GMS TB, CAI/MAS---Gets a lot of compliments and runs great.
10/5/06, 08:27 AM
#469
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Same here, even though I never got any codes, I never understood the "1/4" turn adjustment. After being in the military for 20 years, one thing you learn is not everyone has the same 1/4 turn parameters, and me personally, I did end up leaving mine more towards half then quarter turn.
10/6/06, 10:23 AM
#470
Same here, even though I never got any codes, I never understood the "1/4" turn adjustment. After being in the military for 20 years, one thing you learn is not everyone has the same 1/4 turn parameters, and me personally, I did end up leaving mine more towards half then quarter turn.
10/9/06, 12:18 PM
#471
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Yes, mine does that as well. Mine will also do this, while driving say on the freeway, if I take my foot off the accelerator, instead of the RPM's falling immediately as it would normally, it stays at that higher idle RPM for like a second, and then it will drop down to normal idle. That is starting to bother me. It's almost as if the stock spring isn't strong enough to immediately close the bigger blades, not sure. Mine is an auto, not sure if thats why.
10/10/06, 05:48 AM
#473
Team Mustang Source
It is for emissions. When you let off the gas, if the throttle is immediately let to an idle, a major rich condition results, raw fuel gets dumped into the exhaust and emissions go to hell. The computer feathers it down when you let off the throttle so there is no rich condition.
10/10/06, 07:13 AM
#474
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Same here, even though I never got any codes, I never understood the "1/4" turn adjustment. After being in the military for 20 years, one thing you learn is not everyone has the same 1/4 turn parameters, and me personally, I did end up leaving mine more towards half then quarter turn.
10/10/06, 11:11 AM
#475
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OK, I have a 2007 GT/CS that I want to add the CAI. I have a Vist Blue color and I seen some sites where the Throttle Bodies come in Blue. I want to get the Polished CAI w/MAF and also the Throttle Body as well. Can this be ordered by calling Granatelli Motor Sports? Also I have read that I have to make sure I get the 2007 version f calibration.
10/10/06, 11:38 AM
#476
Team Mustang Source Legacy Member
NJJoe, you should be able to just call GMS (805-486-6644))and ask for Morgan or JR. Tell them you're from TMS and that you have an '07. I have the CAI and MAF in my '07, works great and no problems.
10/10/06, 11:44 AM
#477
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Thanks Jay, I will give them a call. I am just wondering if the upgrading the Throttle Body is worth the cost. It says that it adds an additional 12HP. But if I am not racing, do I really need it. With the CAI and MAF it should improve the HP enough to make a differnence. Maybe I will try that and then upgrade the Throttle Body later. Thoughts?
10/10/06, 11:47 AM
#478
Team Mustang Source Legacy Member
Just the CAI and MAF makes a difference, definitely. I don't know how much the throttle body really makes a difference, other than looks. But Just on looks alone, I'm tempted to get it, and there might even be a performance increase.
10/10/06, 12:19 PM
#479
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The small issue you guys are asking baout has to do with the increased amount of air tha gets past the blades at idle. Sense the blade are larger they allow a small amount of extra air to pass at idle. They cars have no IAC (idle Air Control) so it takes the the ecm that extra ew seconds to adjust. We are working on a solution
10/10/06, 12:54 PM
#480
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Just ordered the CAI w/MAF from Granatelli's and should be shipped within two weeks. I spoke to Chris at the parts department and made sure that he knew that I had the '07. He was not aware that the calibration on the MAF may be different. Hmmm.....has me wondering now if I am going to have a problem. Hope not.