Midwest TMS'ers General Communication Thread
3/17/08, 02:35 PM
#2981
Legacy TMS Member
Join Date: January 9, 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Posts: 6,982
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Hey everyone! I'll be doing some more work to my car tomorrow, oil change for sure, might be able to put the under-drive pulleys on. I'll have to see how things go. I need to stop by the dealer on the way to work today and get a new crank bolt, the pulleys only came with the install bolt and new alternator bolt. Not a big deal to me though, I need to go get a new cabin air filter anyway, and set up a time when they can change out my fuel pump.
Justin,
Sounds good. I didn't know our cars had cabin air filters in them...Where are they located at and how often are you supposed to change them. I just learned something.
Scott
3/17/08, 02:52 PM
#2982
Today, 4:08 PM #
3/18/08, 04:00 AM
#2988
Legacy TMS Member
Join Date: January 9, 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Posts: 6,982
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Morning Guys,
Got to run out of the shop early. Hey STD..is that your new adjustable upper control arm you have on order in your avatar??
Get-r-done with the shaft already!!
Got to run out of the shop early. Hey STD..is that your new adjustable upper control arm you have on order in your avatar??
Get-r-done with the shaft already!!
3/18/08, 06:55 AM
#2991
Shelby GT500 Member
Join Date: October 9, 2006
Location: It's tough in the jungle !
Posts: 2,758
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Ok! 70STONEDMACH1OWNER, Here is the correct formula for setting the pinion angle on a 1 piece drive shaft lowered or not ! As posted by ''cherod.com'' and verified by Joe Heck Racing ! you where half right as usual..... leave it to me to get to the truth!!...as usual Ok, here is the pinion angle procedure for a ONE PIECE DRIVESHAFT. This procedure is not correct for the OEM 2-pc shaft. This works for lowered cars or for stock-height cars, but this is for 1-pc shafts only.
Jack up both the front and the rear of the car so you can get under both the transmission area of the car and the rear-end area. The rear suspension must be loaded. This means the rear tires must be sitting on ramps, or the rear axle tube must be supported by a lift or jackstands. The front end can be lifted however you like.
It is good if you can get the car level, but it is not required.
Get under the car and remove your 1-pc driveshaft. (or if you are installing the driveshaft for the first time, you can do this after you've got the OEM one out, and before you put the new one in).
Get your angle finder and measure the angle of the transmission output flange. Write this number down. Refer to the sketch for taking this measurement.
Move over to the rear end of the car and measure the angle of the pinion flange. Write this number down. Note that this can be tricky if you have a "triangle" shaped angle gage. If you flip the triangle over, you are now measuring angles from a different reference point--don't do that, it will mess up your results. Use a carpenter's square as shown in my sketch, so the angle gage is held in the same orientation as it was for the trans flange. If you have a "square" type of gage then just use the side of the square opposite the one you used for the trans flange.
Now adjust the LCAs so that the two angles are the same. Keep adjusting and checking until the angle at the pinion (#2) matches what you recorded for the transmission flange.
At this point the two flanges are parallel. If you are running a full racing suspension then you're done here, skip to putting the driveshaft back in.
On a typical car with minor mods, you now need to add a little negative angle. Adjust the LCAs so that they lengthen (if you are using an adjustable UCA, then shorten it instead), making the nose rear end housing dip down a little bit. Go about 2 degrees beyond the trans flange measurement. Again, this is called a negative angle but depending on how your angle gage is marked, it might not actually be a negative number by your measurements. The same thing I wrote above applies here. If you have a fully aftermarket rear end, you could run about 1 to 1.5 degrees. If you are running a common street setup with one set of control arms only, then 2 degrees or so is more appropriate.
Once your angle is set where you want it, loctite your jam nuts and torque them down. Re-install your driveshaft, and go for a test drive.
leave it to me to get to the truth!!...as usual Ok, here is the pinion angle procedure for a ONE PIECE DRIVESHAFT. This procedure is not correct for the OEM 2-pc shaft. This works for lowered cars or for stock-height cars, but this is for 1-pc shafts only. Jack up both the front and the rear of the car so you can get under both the transmission area of the car and the rear-end area. The rear suspension must be loaded. This means the rear tires must be sitting on ramps, or the rear axle tube must be supported by a lift or jackstands. The front end can be lifted however you like.
It is good if you can get the car level, but it is not required.
Get under the car and remove your 1-pc driveshaft. (or if you are installing the driveshaft for the first time, you can do this after you've got the OEM one out, and before you put the new one in).
Get your angle finder and measure the angle of the transmission output flange. Write this number down. Refer to the sketch for taking this measurement.
Move over to the rear end of the car and measure the angle of the pinion flange. Write this number down. Note that this can be tricky if you have a "triangle" shaped angle gage. If you flip the triangle over, you are now measuring angles from a different reference point--don't do that, it will mess up your results. Use a carpenter's square as shown in my sketch, so the angle gage is held in the same orientation as it was for the trans flange. If you have a "square" type of gage then just use the side of the square opposite the one you used for the trans flange.
Now adjust the LCAs so that the two angles are the same. Keep adjusting and checking until the angle at the pinion (#2) matches what you recorded for the transmission flange.
At this point the two flanges are parallel. If you are running a full racing suspension then you're done here, skip to putting the driveshaft back in.
On a typical car with minor mods, you now need to add a little negative angle. Adjust the LCAs so that they lengthen (if you are using an adjustable UCA, then shorten it instead), making the nose rear end housing dip down a little bit. Go about 2 degrees beyond the trans flange measurement. Again, this is called a negative angle but depending on how your angle gage is marked, it might not actually be a negative number by your measurements. The same thing I wrote above applies here. If you have a fully aftermarket rear end, you could run about 1 to 1.5 degrees. If you are running a common street setup with one set of control arms only, then 2 degrees or so is more appropriate.
Once your angle is set where you want it, loctite your jam nuts and torque them down. Re-install your driveshaft, and go for a test drive.
3/18/08, 08:17 AM
#2992
Banned
Join Date: November 30, 2007
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Scott,
Here is yet another example of the condition you and Robert discussed yesterday. This shaft is from a '95 F150 4X4 and has almost been cut in half by the exhaust. It just came in this morning.
Here is yet another example of the condition you and Robert discussed yesterday. This shaft is from a '95 F150 4X4 and has almost been cut in half by the exhaust. It just came in this morning.
3/18/08, 08:36 AM
#2993
Cobra Member
Join Date: February 2, 2005
Location: Aurora, IL
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had to have the guy order the bolt and the filter for me, it'll be there from the Chicago warehouse sometime this morning.
3/18/08, 10:18 AM
#2994
Ok! 70STONEDMACH1OWNER, Here is the correct formula for setting the pinion angle on a 1 piece drive shaft lowered or not ! As posted by ''cherod.com'' and verified by Joe Heck Racing ! you where half right as usual..... leave it to me to get to the truth!!...as usual Ok, here is the pinion angle procedure for a ONE PIECE DRIVESHAFT. This procedure is not correct for the OEM 2-pc shaft. This works for lowered cars or for stock-height cars, but this is for 1-pc shafts only.
Jack up both the front and the rear of the car so you can get under both the transmission area of the car and the rear-end area. The rear suspension must be loaded. This means the rear tires must be sitting on ramps, or the rear axle tube must be supported by a lift or jackstands. The front end can be lifted however you like.
It is good if you can get the car level, but it is not required.
Get under the car and remove your 1-pc driveshaft. (or if you are installing the driveshaft for the first time, you can do this after you've got the OEM one out, and before you put the new one in).
Get your angle finder and measure the angle of the transmission output flange. Write this number down. Refer to the sketch for taking this measurement.
Move over to the rear end of the car and measure the angle of the pinion flange. Write this number down. Note that this can be tricky if you have a "triangle" shaped angle gage. If you flip the triangle over, you are now measuring angles from a different reference point--don't do that, it will mess up your results. Use a carpenter's square as shown in my sketch, so the angle gage is held in the same orientation as it was for the trans flange. If you have a "square" type of gage then just use the side of the square opposite the one you used for the trans flange.
Now adjust the LCAs so that the two angles are the same. Keep adjusting and checking until the angle at the pinion (#2) matches what you recorded for the transmission flange.
At this point the two flanges are parallel. If you are running a full racing suspension then you're done here, skip to putting the driveshaft back in.
On a typical car with minor mods, you now need to add a little negative angle. Adjust the LCAs so that they lengthen (if you are using an adjustable UCA, then shorten it instead), making the nose rear end housing dip down a little bit. Go about 2 degrees beyond the trans flange measurement. Again, this is called a negative angle but depending on how your angle gage is marked, it might not actually be a negative number by your measurements. The same thing I wrote above applies here. If you have a fully aftermarket rear end, you could run about 1 to 1.5 degrees. If you are running a common street setup with one set of control arms only, then 2 degrees or so is more appropriate.
Once your angle is set where you want it, loctite your jam nuts and torque them down. Re-install your driveshaft, and go for a test drive.
leave it to me to get to the truth!!...as usual Ok, here is the pinion angle procedure for a ONE PIECE DRIVESHAFT. This procedure is not correct for the OEM 2-pc shaft. This works for lowered cars or for stock-height cars, but this is for 1-pc shafts only. Jack up both the front and the rear of the car so you can get under both the transmission area of the car and the rear-end area. The rear suspension must be loaded. This means the rear tires must be sitting on ramps, or the rear axle tube must be supported by a lift or jackstands. The front end can be lifted however you like.
It is good if you can get the car level, but it is not required.
Get under the car and remove your 1-pc driveshaft. (or if you are installing the driveshaft for the first time, you can do this after you've got the OEM one out, and before you put the new one in).
Get your angle finder and measure the angle of the transmission output flange. Write this number down. Refer to the sketch for taking this measurement.
Move over to the rear end of the car and measure the angle of the pinion flange. Write this number down. Note that this can be tricky if you have a "triangle" shaped angle gage. If you flip the triangle over, you are now measuring angles from a different reference point--don't do that, it will mess up your results. Use a carpenter's square as shown in my sketch, so the angle gage is held in the same orientation as it was for the trans flange. If you have a "square" type of gage then just use the side of the square opposite the one you used for the trans flange.
Now adjust the LCAs so that the two angles are the same. Keep adjusting and checking until the angle at the pinion (#2) matches what you recorded for the transmission flange.
At this point the two flanges are parallel. If you are running a full racing suspension then you're done here, skip to putting the driveshaft back in.
On a typical car with minor mods, you now need to add a little negative angle. Adjust the LCAs so that they lengthen (if you are using an adjustable UCA, then shorten it instead), making the nose rear end housing dip down a little bit. Go about 2 degrees beyond the trans flange measurement. Again, this is called a negative angle but depending on how your angle gage is marked, it might not actually be a negative number by your measurements. The same thing I wrote above applies here. If you have a fully aftermarket rear end, you could run about 1 to 1.5 degrees. If you are running a common street setup with one set of control arms only, then 2 degrees or so is more appropriate.
Once your angle is set where you want it, loctite your jam nuts and torque them down. Re-install your driveshaft, and go for a test drive.
Hey STD
If your still afraid to install that shaft I know of a couple of Girl Scouts that need a Merit badge that could install it for you.
3/18/08, 11:12 AM
#2995
Cobra R Member
Join Date: October 10, 2004
Location: Location: Indy
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
The cabin filter is located under the pass. side cowl screen. Turn on the wipers and shut the ignition off when they are toward the driver's side, it'll make it much easier to remove the screen. Remove some push-pins under the hood at the front edge of the screen, and then pop the piece loose carefully, it's held in with metal clips. I think Ford says change the filter every 15k or so.
I had to have the guy order the bolt and the filter for me, it'll be there from the Chicago warehouse sometime this morning.
I had to have the guy order the bolt and the filter for me, it'll be there from the Chicago warehouse sometime this morning.
Cabin Air Filter location picture...
Cool ! will they work in the nude ?.....
3/18/08, 12:24 PM
#2998