The update worked fine, no issues at all. I downloaded the file from Ford Owner for my car and it did install with no error. I just can't confirm the update with Ford due to the different VIN.

LEXiiON

 

hmm wonder why mine wont take

 

Did you have Sync in your car from the factory? Maybe that could be the issue. I did, it is still the original module in there, despite all the changes I did.

LEXiiON

 

I had a sync kit in my base car. that took updates just fine, I replaced everything with the nav kit I got on ebay. Im going to retry the update when my new shaker headunit comes in.

 

Mine just won't recognize the install file on the drive for some reason. Have tried 2 drives so far.

 

JIM - what am I missing???!!!

I replaced the entire shifter box with a 2013 one - and pinned a C307 Male to match the pins on the 2013 shifter female - and then connected the wires to the mapped pins on the 2012 harness in the car - except for the 3 wires that are listed above - for that I ran a flat 3 line trailer wire up to the front via the wheel well and spliced the signal return into pin 56 and added pins 23 and 24.

So - everything is done - today (because it's warm) - I started the car and put it in D... All good... put it in S all good - EXCEPT - I don't get the "SportShift" message in the gauge cluster when I put it in "S" - and sitting with my foot on the brake pushing the shifter + or - does not change anything in the LCD either...

Now - granted I didn't drive it - but I would have expected the "Sport Shift" alert in the Gauge Cluster...

So here's the question - and I know this is real reach back into your memory banks... Attached is the 2012 schematic - I circled the wires I have mapped to the 2013 - obviously the one in the lower left (old pin 6) is "dead" because that's hill assist... what about 2015 pin 5... that's not going anywhere now.

Then on the 2013 schematic - you can see the red numbers that I wrote in - those are the pins from 2012...

In my mind - this should be working... what did I miss?!?! Does the old pin 5 on the 2012 schematic need to be feed by something too?

Everything works - no wrenches - just no "SportShift" popup... and when foot on the brake and pushing the buttons - nothing seems to happen in the gauge cluster either.

 

I have triple checked my pinout, my PCM pins and my splice at the PCM... I even had another set of eyes on it...

Can ANYONE who has done the 2013/2014 cluster upgrade in a 2012 AUTOMATIC tell me - when you SHIFT the shifter to "S" - do you see the popup in the cluster that says "Sprot Shift Mode" or whatever the actual verbiage is - or not... maybe I'm chasing something here that's "too stock" for this modification...

 

It may be that the as built data for the cluster is for a manual, and it needs to be changed to that of an automatic?

My cluster came from an automatic car, so I did not not need to do anything, but I remember that I did have to change the as built in order to get the parking warning to work.

This may be your problem. Look for as built data on an automatic, and then change accordingly. Hopefully this solves your problem.

 

In the IPC itself? That has AS-BUILT too?!? OMG... it's never ending!

 

Yes, in the IPC.

There are things you can turn on and off in there.

Now I did NOT have to do anything to turn on the sport select shift, as my cluster came from an automatic car already, but I think this may be your problem assuming everything else is good.

 

What do you currently see when you put the car in to 1 2 3 or drive?

 

Again - that was it Jim!

I took a 2013 VIN for Vert Auto with the LCD ICP, got the AS-BUILT's, plugged in the VCM2 and changed them with IDS...

Started the car, put it in "S" - and - popup about sport mode... Yellow "S" on the display - and by thumbing through the gears that number changes - up and down!

I'm DONE!

Only thing I don't like is how the VIN in the PCM and ABS (which have to match) are the 2014 VIN's not my 2012... Ohh well... small price to pay!

 

Now you need the paddle shifters!

 

I'm just thrilled I'm done! I don't know I want to start again! Besides - in 2 weeks I tear the front off to do OPGs and a Whipple 2.9 on top!

 

I got my vins working with the 2013 gear.

 

I have the LCD cluster installed, PATS relearn done, and I have been driving the car with no issues. Since I am a 2012, I need to re flash the PCM to a 2013 to get all the functions working and cruise control, but I am stuck on that step. I have a 2013 VIN I can use.

I tried leaving my VIN, and entering the PCM part number as DR3A-ACD, but i get an error about no matching "as-built". I tried the 2013 VIN with no luck. IDS now says my PCM is blank.

Could one of the folks that have successfully done the 2012 to 2013 re-flash please outline the required steps? I have been through this and several threads, but I seem to be missing something.

Using IDS V86.

 

@awoychosky123 : I saw your post - https://themustangsource.com/forums/...1/#post7006777
But haven't tried it - mainly because one of the key parts of your process is where you talk about manually downloading an .ab file and editing the file. My IDS version is 101.3 and it did everything automatically when I flashed the PCM and the new ABS module - pulling things right from Ford - I never saw a single file...
HOW? And where do you put them so IDS sees them? And what exactly are "so I had to go download every file individually"? With that information I'd give your instructions a try and report back!!!
I can get the [2013/14 VIN as built].ab file easily and save that locally and change the VIN on the file and in the file to my 2012... but what then about the ABS software that IDS would download for the ABS AND the PCM code that IDS wants to download as well... if you are not connected to the internet - you must have to get those files somehow as well... or is the only file you are saving locally the single as-buil .ab file and changing the VIN there?

 

Danny Brija - I have IDS 101.3 - so maybe this isn't useful... BUT - I got to the "PCM is blank" step - and then just followed the next steps in IDS - it asked something about "do you want to flash the PCM" and then downloaded the software from for the model year of the "donor" VIN I used from the internet... Then there were several times that it asked me to turn the key on and off as part of the flash process.
I will admit that at this point in the process when "your PCM is blank" my adrenaline was flowing a bit (nervous) and I don't remember the EXACT screen after this - but the process does continue right from the "is blank" screen into the reprogramming of it... at least in the 101.3 IDS version.

 

Disconnect your computer from the internet while you program and you will get a pop up saying ford has to connect to the internet to obtain files but it cant so it will the pop a screen up with the names of the files you need to get like : DR3A-14C204-CG.vbf But this should not matter. I just had to do this for the PCM because I cant download through ids. but you put .ab files in the same spot. Should be in C:\Program Files\Ford Motor Company\IDS\Calibration Files Plop your modified .ab in there as well as any manual files the ids needs to download if you are offline.

I cant tell you where to download the .vbf files (Wouldnt want ford removing the link from public use) but some searching and you might be able to find a access point.

 

OK - so - let me see if I understand the steps...

1. Edit the .AB file from the 2014, change the name and the data in the file to be the VIN of my 2012.
2. Place the edited .AB file somewhere under C:\Program Files\Ford Motor Company\Calibration Files (my directory structure is different - different IDS version)
3. Start your earlier directions except make sure the IDS is disconnected from internet and when IDS tells me I need files - go manually pull them and toss them into the above directory...
4. All of this following your earlier writeup steps - ABS, then PCM, then ABS again...

If you say "you have it" - I'll give this a go and let you know how it turns out... worst case - my IDS version won't let me do this - OR - I get something screwed up - I will just go back to the 2014 VIN I used to get everything working now!
And - THANK YOU!