Eduardo's 94 Mustang GT thread
Joined: August 23, 2004
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 3
From: Bay Area, California
I think that you pretty much have to go with aluminum heads. If you don't shipping's going to cost an arm and a leg. It was 60 bucks to get my GT40s shipped to me state to state ground. So obviously you need aluminum simply for shipping prices to be reasonable. 

Water through the intake + me forcing it to start with the cylinders with liquid inside = bent valves

But I don't think my budget would allow me to get them, even cast iron ones. My budget would be about $600 if I use the whole bonus to fix the car, but I doubt it.

I once saw an article on porting the E7TE heads and the stock intake to get some decent ponies. Tons of work due to the fact that they're iron heads, but if I find the proper grinding stones, I should be able to do it
I'm seriously considering to slap a #19 Steeda cam w roller rockers, 1.7's if possible Joined: August 23, 2004
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 3
From: Bay Area, California
Look for a set of GT40s. They only run about 300 bucks and shipping and a gasket set will still put you under your budget I think. I would not try to mess with the E7s. They really are worthless.
GT40> E7s but they arent worthless. If no other option presents itself, see if you can find a real machinist who knows engines and could port the E7s for you. They really aren't bad as far as stock heads go, especially when you consider you're not going to have massive power jumps with the GT40s. If you can save up and wait longer, though, I would spring for AFRs. Definitely the best choice available

Also I will need new head bolts or upgrade to ARP grade studs since factory ones aren't reusable.GT40> E7s but they arent worthless. If no other option presents itself, see if you can find a real machinist who knows engines and could port the E7s for you. They really aren't bad as far as stock heads go, especially when you consider you're not going to have massive power jumps with the GT40s. If you can save up and wait longer, though, I would spring for AFRs. Definitely the best choice available
It's just one of the options I have considering my really tight budget. I know a place that can pull out the work. They're pretty well known around here and have done for me & my dad some work before. If I can port them and put some bigger valves, they can put out some decent numbers, but nothing like aftermarket heads. I also will need at a minimum an Cobra intake assembly too. The current one IS the biggest choke on the engine following the heads. Most probably I'll just acid clean, sandblast & rebuild them w new valves & seals. There's some other stuff that has priority, like new glasses

AFR's are on my dream list



Thanks for your feedback guys.
Last edited by edumspeed; Nov 19, 2009 at 01:27 PM.
Joined: August 23, 2004
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 3
From: Bay Area, California
Nope, GT40s off the Cobras and 96 Explorers go for around that price. I've seen them go for as low as 250. P heads are going for even cheaper. I got mine off of Corral a couple months for a lot more, but they were very low mileage (250 miles) so I thought it was still a good deal. I would say just keep your eyes peeled and if you see a good deal ask them about shipping to PR. It never hurts to ask.
Linking this for future reference.
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...t_1/index.html
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...k_build_part_2
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...k_build_part_3
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...t_1/index.html
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...k_build_part_2
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...k_build_part_3
Last edited by edumspeed; Nov 22, 2009 at 11:26 PM.
I've seen some gt40 heads on various places, and they can ship them here for $100 more. Not bad, considering they're gt40p's.
I'll keep looking untill I actuallu take the engine apart. On corral someone said that maybe it was a connecting rod that bent. That would suck tenfold
I'll keep looking untill I actuallu take the engine apart. On corral someone said that maybe it was a connecting rod that bent. That would suck tenfold
I've seen some gt40 heads on various places, and they can ship them here for $100 more. Not bad, considering they're gt40p's.
I'll keep looking untill I actuallu take the engine apart. On corral someone said that maybe it was a connecting rod that bent. That would suck tenfold 
I'll keep looking untill I actuallu take the engine apart. On corral someone said that maybe it was a connecting rod that bent. That would suck tenfold 
GT40Ps need special exhaust manifolds, and I think theres an issue getting to the spark plugs; theres just not as much clearance.
I would avoid P heads at pretty much all cost
I would avoid P heads at pretty much all cost
There are some aftermarket headers that fit them quite well and leave enough access to the plugs, like BBK shorties for example. I've done some googling and looked for info on other forums as well. They're the best flowing factory heads, according to what I've read so far. They can be found on 97-01 Explorers if I remember correctly.
And the classified for the $500 460 is still there
But that will need some extra parts, and I don't think it will bolt on to my transmission bellhousing
But a 385 series engine on a sn95 should be a ton of fun
And the classified for the $500 460 is still there
But that will need some extra parts, and I don't think it will bolt on to my transmission bellhousing
But a 385 series engine on a sn95 should be a ton of fun
I saw once on a Mustang magazine a neat spider style intake manifold swap to clean up some of the clutter on teh engine bay and I liked the looks of it. Although it was an Anderson piece, I've found similar parts for less $.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/PP-54039

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/EDL-3849
or this http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/EDL-3851


and of course, the mandatory elbow adapter
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/PP-54151

Depending on how much I spend on the engine, I may buy those.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/PP-54039

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/EDL-3849
or this http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/EDL-3851

and of course, the mandatory elbow adapter
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/PP-54151

Depending on how much I spend on the engine, I may buy those.
Last edited by edumspeed; Nov 28, 2009 at 11:22 PM.
Joined: August 23, 2004
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 3
From: Bay Area, California
Would getting something like this be easier? Then you wouldn't have to drill out the injector bungs.



