Oh, I'm sure it's okay doing it the way you describe. Heck, mechanics have been installing crank pulleys like that for years! Not to mention the ol' piece of 2x4 and mallet method.

Even getting a new crank bolt was probably overkill, but for $7, why not.

I'm actually going to attempt to install the Steeda crank pulley without the use of the balancer install tool.

 

Ya know when I read that you got the tools I guess I blocked out the part about a balancer Installation tool.... I was wondering what in the heck Tom was talking about

Anywho, I've always just went over the crank snout with some emory cloth, all my motors had Waaaay more than a couple thousand miles when I had to take off and put on the balancer, and generously applied WD-40. I always used the existing crank bolt. And when none of that worked a deadblow hammer and a healthy piece of wood works too.
But you probably won't have to worry about it too much on yours.

 

The harmonic balancer (crank pulley) installation tool is the bolt.

Hey with a name like that just think of how much more one could charge some-one.

 

It's still a good idea to PULL it on versus HAMMERING it on, but I have always laughed at the "installation tool".

 

Why? There's several pieces that make up this kit, it's just not a 'bolt'.

You have the long threaded stud, a shorter specific stud that threads into the crank, a lock ring, bearing washer, and the crank down nut.

Not that I plan on taking this pulley on and off several times, but like Tom mentioned, it's always better to pull it on with a tool like this. Anytime you avoid stress into the threaded part of the crank, the better.

 

Just an update from Dynojet...

 

Yep... all the parts of a bolt.

 

Well, hopefully I won't need that 'bolt' tomorrow.

 

You'll be fine... use your old bolt and the thick washer to pull the pulley on... then remove the bolt and install your new bolt. If you can't torque it, hit it with the air ratchet for little bit. You should be able to torque it with the engine in gear, though.

 

I heard that putting the gear in R will help keep the engine from turning while loosening/tightening the crank bolt. True?

 

Tracking Detail:

Your package has been delivered.

Type: Package Status: Delivered Delivered on: 05/25/2007 12:27 P.M.

 

You don't have to worry about taking it off. The air tool will get it off even if you are in neutral. But with the rear tires on the ground, you should be able to torque it in any gear. Put the emergency brake on, too, if you want. I don't think you'll be able to move it.

 

Actually, my plan of attack is to do it the easiest way by not removing more than I have to (the fan shroud and fluid tanks). If I can break loose the crank bolt using a 1/2" breaker and able to fit the gear puller in there without interference from the fan, I'll do it.
But, if the working clearance is too tight, then I'll remove the above for more space.

I just picked up a can of brake cleaner and a small tube of black hi-temp RTV sealant. I had the red, but it would clash too much.

I've read a few posts today where after this mod, some have experienced oil leaks coming from the key way (Woodruff) from insufficient RTV. Guess I'll have to fill the key way of the pulley and put a small bead on both ends. One guy even layed down a faying surface seal between the large crank bolt washer and pulley face. Not too sure about this, I think it'll affect obtaining accurate torque on that bolt.


On the subject, I'm thinking ahead for Leo's car on this mod. Being an Auto tranny, how's he going to lock the engine up when it comes time to torque down the crank bolt?

 

Actually, my plan of attack is to do it the easiest way by not removing more than I have to (the fan shroud and fluid tanks). If I can break loose the crank bolt using a 1/2" breaker and able to fit the gear puller in there without interference from the fan, I'll do it.
But, if the working clearance is too tight, then I'll remove the above for more space.
Good idea.

I just picked up a can of brake cleaner and a small tube of black hi-temp RTV sealant. I had the red, but it would clash too much.
I've read a few posts today where after this mod, some have experienced oil leaks coming from the key way (Woodruff) from insufficient RTV. Guess I'll have to fill the key way of the pulley and put a small bead on both ends. One guy even layed down a faying surface seal between the large crank bolt washer and pulley face. Not too sure about this, I think it'll affect obtaining accurate torque on that bolt.
They must have barely put on any RTV. If you fill the key way you will be fine. After the pulley is on all the way, there should be a gap before the woodruff key. In other words, the woodruff key won't come all the way out to the edge of the pulley. You can force extra RTV into that opening for good measure. If there is some under the washer, it won't affect the torque rating that much, if at all. It will squish it out and make a nice seal.

On the subject, I'm thinking ahead for Leo's car on this mod. Being an Auto tranny, how's he going to lock the engine up when it comes time to torque down the crank bolt?
For him (and on my '03 auto), I would just tighten the bolt until it starts to turn over the engine. The compression may let you get it a little tighter. I then tighten it with the impact gun for 5 to 10 seconds to make sure it was tight. I'm big on torque values, and that satisfied me - and I never had any problems.

 

Well... Still no tracking number... Maybe I'll get so bored this weekend that I'll clean the backside of my rims... NAAAAHHHH!!! Oh... Hi Bill!



Has anyone raised their Rev Limiter after installing their tune?

 

None of us have messed with any of the user adjustable settings. I don't think any of us have even been in that part of the programmer.

We're ascared...

 

My tuner set mine to 6500rpm, now I almost never hit it.

 

Thanks for the RTV tip.

I opened up my package today and everything is there and accounted for.
Included were some Steeda instructions for both the U/D Pulleys and Delete Plates. On the pulleys, it addressed how to torque the crank bolt on Auto trans cars. It says to access and hold the torque converter with a 14mm wrench while someone torques the bolt.


Here's some pics of the stuff to be installed tomorrow.



(not thrilled about the scratches, but guess I'll live with it since it's 'semi' non-appearance)

 

Yeah John, clean the backside of your wheels! While you're at it, spiff up your engine bay too. It'll be a shame to install a shiny new JLT intake in a dirty bay.



Nope. That last thing I need to hear is some whiz, whine, then a bang!!

 

Yup... Keeping up with the Jones's on the "Ponies on the Run" thread is hard work!