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'13-14 Cluster into '10-12 car (with TrackApps) retrofit

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Old 8/26/13, 07:47 PM
  #541  
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Thanks Matt. I was trying to forget how much this mod cost me.
Old 8/26/13, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dmhines
Thanks Matt. I was trying to forget how much this mod cost me.
So am I, but man I love that LCD and the new gauge face!
Old 8/26/13, 09:30 PM
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OK, so I hear that using 2013 PCM and ABS might be easier. Did I hear right that you will be testing this theory out? Wouldn't this route be about the same$$?
Old 8/27/13, 05:06 AM
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The PCM and ABS module will be an additional $700.
Old 8/27/13, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by dmhines
The PCM and ABS module will be an additional $700.
In addition to the below or would it replace some of the below? Cluster I know is a given but what about the rest? Is the install comlicated? What's the step by step process? Sorry for all the questions but I want to make sure I don't take on a job I can't do myself.

2013 Cluster from Tousley = $500
2013 Info Switch from Tousley = $20
2013 Info Switch Cruise Mod = $25 (includes parts)
Black Box = $180
Pats Relearn & ASBUILT = $110 varies by dealer.
Odometer I think is $100ish?
Old 8/27/13, 08:33 AM
  #546  
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Originally Posted by zeroaviation
2013 Cluster from Tousley = $500
2013 Info Switch from Tousley = $20
2013 Info Switch Cruise Mod = $25 (includes parts)
Black Box = $180
Pats Relearn & ASBUILT = $110 varies by dealer.
Odometer I think is $100ish?

Agreed on the 2013 ABS module, but i'm concerned about AdvanceTRAC working correctly. I'm going to get this module next month, then pull the EEPROM and see if i can do some... well in plain terms.. Hacking



When I trade mine in (For a GT500 w00t!) I'm going to return everything back to stock, cluster, nav, everything.



I agree. Let me take the plunge first with the ABS module, and i'm working on coming up with a PCM. More than likely will have to get creative with EEPROM images and AS built on certain modules. I have aquired a new piece of software that will help alot in this department. Just need a good J2534 Interface (also getting next month I hope)



Ditto!



Humm.. If the plug fits I'm sure that the Speedo, RPM, and Water temp will work as they use can data that was derived as a Ford standard in 2003.

-Matt
DIBS ON NAVI!
Old 8/27/13, 08:41 AM
  #547  
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Originally Posted by devildog1679
OK, so I hear that using 2013 PCM and ABS might be easier. Did I hear right that you will be testing this theory out? Wouldn't this route be about the same$$?
This would be harder, much harder. Not only would have to pay the extra for the PCM & ABS module, you would have to pay a ford technician to experiment. Plus, I'm fairly confident that the PCM/ABS would not be plug and play even with a VCM and ASBUILT data, i think different calibrations (or even modified ones) would be required.

Originally Posted by devildog1679
In addition to the below or would it replace some of the below? Cluster I know is a given but what about the rest? Is the install comlicated? What's the step by step process? Sorry for all the questions but I want to make sure I don't take on a job I can't do myself.

2013 Cluster from Tousley = $500
2013 Info Switch from Tousley = $20
2013 Info Switch Cruise Mod = $25 (includes parts)
Black Box = $180
Pats Relearn & ASBUILT = $110 varies by dealer.
Odometer I think is $100ish?
For the stuff listed there, is without the ABS & PCM. The install is really simple.

I would be more than happy to answer any questions you may have. If you but all the parts in one go, could be a 1-2 hour job plus Techtime.

Originally Posted by jim010
So am I, but man I love that LCD and the new gauge face!
So do I! It looks soo sick at night for sure.

Originally Posted by Matt's 95 Stang
DIBS ON NAVI!
I'll keep that in mind!

-Matt
Old 8/31/13, 11:04 PM
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I have a 2013 base V6, it looks to me like I can upgrade to the 2013 cluster with the LCD in the middle, track apps, my color, and all I would need to do is change out the switches on the left side of the steering wheel, and then have the dealer program the cluster to the car's PATS system and such, and it should all work, track apps, mycolor, everything should work, correct?
Old 9/1/13, 12:29 PM
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I have a 2013 base V6, it looks to me like I can upgrade to the 2013 cluster with the LCD in the middle, track apps, my color, and all I would need to do is change out the switches on the left side of the steering wheel, and then have the dealer program the cluster to the car's PATS system and such, and it should all work, track apps, mycolor, everything should work, correct?
Theoretically, yes.
Old 9/1/13, 12:42 PM
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When this is completed and exact parts list is written down, please PM me, Im very interested. I just want a 2013 cluster with the gauges. I have a 2011 6MT
Old 9/1/13, 12:55 PM
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If cruise and track apps is not important to you, then get it now. Zero has the guages working.

As stated previously, you need the cluster, switches, and the module from Zero. BEFORE you get PATS done, have United Radio do the odometer.
Old 9/1/13, 02:40 PM
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I used cruise last night for 30 miles. Works good enough for me. :$)

As far as retrofitting a base 13/14 that is unknown. The PCM and ABS module run the guages and track apps. Are they the same parts with same firmware. Also need to determine if wiring harness in base supports the control switch on the steering wheel.
Old 9/2/13, 12:08 PM
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Zero, dmhines and Gregg,

Just wanted you to make sure I was understanding this right? Could you check over?

I have the 2013 switch in there now. Looking into the cruise, at 2100 ohms turns cruise on. The new switch with nothing pressed has a resistance of 2114 ohms.

When nothing is pressed, resistance should be 4323ohms, but it is 2114 ohms making the PCM think that I am holding the 'on' button down. So cruise is always on right from start up?

Replacing the 120 ohm resisitor in the switch for the 'Set -' and changing it to 301 ohm will fix set -.

Replacing the 180 ohm resistor for 'Set +' with 301 ohm will now fix the set + (301 + 301 will give the 602 ohm needed).

For 'Resume/Cancel', replace the 301 ohm resistor with 511 ohms to make that work (301 + 301 + 511 will give the 1113 ohms needed for this).

'On/Off is the trickiest as it sends the same signal at almost no resistance, but should be 2 different signals (off should be almost no resistance and on should be 2100 ohms). So cruise can be turned off, but it turns right back on when the on/off button is released as explained above.

The other buttons can be fixed with replacing the resistors, but a module is needed for the 'on' button and to increase the resistance of the circuit when nothing is depressed to 4323 ohms.

EDIT:

Also, to make the 'no button pressed' resistance right, the 511 ohm resistor in there now needs to be replaced with a 2.21 ohm resistor. If everything above is done, then cruise will not automatically turn on, but there is no way to actually turn it on either?

Last edited by jim010; 9/2/13 at 12:28 PM.
Old 9/2/13, 12:40 PM
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To add:

The resistors in the 2013 switch now are:

set - 120
set + 180
resume/cancel - 301
no buttons pressed - 1000 and 511

Switching those out with 301, 301, 511, 1000 and 2210 respectively is not a problem I assume.

If a module were built, then it would have to detect when the 'on/off' button is pressed.

That would give a resistance of ~0.5 ohms. When it detects a changes from 4323 ohms to 0.5 ohms, it needs to change the signal by increasing the resistance to 2100 ohms so the PCM understands that it must turn cruise on.

Then when the module recieves a second signal at 0.5 ohms, it leaves that signal alone so the PCM recognizes that cruise is to be turned off.

So the complications are:

- module must recognize every first, third, fifth, seventh etc, signal at 0.5 ohms as 'turn on' and change it to 2100 ohms.
- module must recognize every second signal at 0.5 ohms as 'turn off' and leave signal alone.
- how do you build something that leaves every second 0.5 signal alone, as well as leaving all the other signals alone?

Last edited by jim010; 9/2/13 at 01:21 PM.
Old 9/3/13, 09:51 AM
  #555  
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Jim,

I'll work out the number is the first post later this evening.

I've done some research I think a separate module is doable. I'm trying to come up with a method of polling if the Cruise is active. The ON/OFF button is the biggest problem.

-Matt
Old 9/8/13, 03:06 PM
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Matt,

Any updates?
Old 9/8/13, 05:12 PM
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I just read this entire thread, and am amazed how far it's come. Nice work you guys! I think I'll wait until this is all figured out, but it might be a spring '14 mod to the car, once the nav is in, of course.
Old 9/8/13, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Overboost
I just read this entire thread, and am amazed how far it's come. Nice work you guys! I think I'll wait until this is all figured out, but it might be a spring '14 mod to the car, once the nav is in, of course.
I started this thread thinking it would if been a simple swap or a simple it can't be done. I'm amazed at the hard work that has been out into this project. This forum is full of talent and smart people. I am truly impressed. Since the start of this thread though I have gotten rid if my 2011.
Old 9/9/13, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jim010
Matt,

Any updates?
Sorry, none yet. I finally got to take some vacation I'm going to start investigating this further. I'm awaiting parts. (Opto couplers to be exact).


Originally Posted by Overboost
I just read this entire thread, and am amazed how far it's come. Nice work you guys! I think I'll wait until this is all figured out, but it might be a spring '14 mod to the car, once the nav is in, of course.
This, by far, is the BEST mod I have done. Having the Trip gauges, fuel economy, and all of the gauges (like AFR) is amazing.


-Matt
Old 9/15/13, 05:13 PM
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Just checking in


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