Some rough luck for me, the GT build thread you don't want to have to make
#21
Cobra R Member
Join Date: June 24, 2011
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,568
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dam man, sorry to hear about this. It too makes me think twice about modding my car or at least waiting till the warranty is up/almost up.
Are the internals going to be beefed up!? Forged! Lol
Are the internals going to be beefed up!? Forged! Lol
#22
This has me scared now about voiding the warranty. I'm installing mufflers, and may have to leave it at that. Guess I'll go talk to my service manager and see what they consider to be un-warrantyable mods.
#23
GT Member
Join Date: June 1, 2012
Location: Heidenheimer, TX
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cory, I'm with you inasmuch as I don't want to void my warranty. No tuner business, no nothing drivetrain related until this bugger is almost paid off. Like you, I want to talk to my service manager to find out what I can do, and what I can't. For instance, I've thought about some suspension mods, but I'm not sure what that will affect as per the warranty. (Thinking of a coil over system, lowering about 1-1/2 - 1-3/4 inch, etc...) I don't know about that just yet. Still looking and researching.
Mark
Mark
#24
I am putting in a MGW shifter -- and hoping that doesn't void the warranty. The one regret that I have on my purchase is that I bought the extended warranty. Obviously a waste of cash! However the base warranty seemed so short...
#25
#29
Don't give it back to the bank. The first thing they're going to do is auction it to try to recover losses, and then sue you for deficiency if it doesn't cover what you still owe. How much less do you think they'll auction it for with a blown motor.
Better to pay for this out of your pocket and still have your car than to have no car, damaged credit, and a deficiency judgement.
Better to pay for this out of your pocket and still have your car than to have no car, damaged credit, and a deficiency judgement.
#30
GT Member
Join Date: February 11, 2012
Location: San Antonio Texas
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sucks Chris, been following your threads on Mustangworld. Your reviews helped push me into the 2012. Good Luck, I wish I could help with the warranty thing.
#31
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Johnny5alive
Don't give it back to the bank. The first thing they're going to do is auction it to try to recover losses, and then sue you for deficiency if it doesn't cover what you still owe. How much less do you think they'll auction it for with a blown motor.
Better to pay for this out of your pocket and still have your car than to have no car, damaged credit, and a deficiency judgement.
Better to pay for this out of your pocket and still have your car than to have no car, damaged credit, and a deficiency judgement.
#32
Like Father...
I ♥ Sausage
I ♥ Sausage
#35
#36
GT Member
Join Date: April 10, 2010
Location: LaPlace, LA
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's threads like these that have made me not even consider putting a tune on my car. I realize that not everyone who puts a tune of their car has problems, but for the ones that do, it's a mess.
Curious to see what the piston/connecting rod looks like on #7.
Curious to see what the piston/connecting rod looks like on #7.
#37
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
spent all day yesterday tearing the motor out of the car and apart, and what we found raised more questions than answers. I'm processing the pictures now and hopefully will have them posted before I fall asleep.
Basically, neither head is worth repairing. Crank is ok, pistons not. Block appears to be a good candidate for a 0.010" overbore, hopefully not all the way to 0.02". Not sure what these blocks can take.
From my reading I thought at first it was valve float (the head of a valve was gone and was found in the catalytic converter on the driver's side of all **** things). There's transferred metal/material from the pistons in 6 of the cylinders and you can find the material in the aluminum portion of the heads.
I think detonation caused this, including the valve failure. (after reading modes of failure for a exhaust valve in regards to detonation - melting or chipping or combination). The consumed valve's stem is still in the head.
This is just the weirdest thing I've ever seen.
material bonded to head aluminum
wasted head
Basically, neither head is worth repairing. Crank is ok, pistons not. Block appears to be a good candidate for a 0.010" overbore, hopefully not all the way to 0.02". Not sure what these blocks can take.
From my reading I thought at first it was valve float (the head of a valve was gone and was found in the catalytic converter on the driver's side of all **** things). There's transferred metal/material from the pistons in 6 of the cylinders and you can find the material in the aluminum portion of the heads.
I think detonation caused this, including the valve failure. (after reading modes of failure for a exhaust valve in regards to detonation - melting or chipping or combination). The consumed valve's stem is still in the head.
This is just the weirdest thing I've ever seen.
material bonded to head aluminum
wasted head
#38
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: August 14, 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 720
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
gotta pay to play bud.
now that you burned your engine, why not buy one of these....
http://www.fordracingparts.com/crateengine/main.asp#bb
now that you burned your engine, why not buy one of these....
http://www.fordracingparts.com/crateengine/main.asp#bb
#39
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
gotta pay to play bud.
now that you burned your engine, why not buy one of these....
http://www.fordracingparts.com/crateengine/main.asp#bb
now that you burned your engine, why not buy one of these....
http://www.fordracingparts.com/crateengine/main.asp#bb
I understand the pay to play concept, its why this thread exists.
I'm still doing cost/cap on two heads (or repairing the one which looks like a waste of time). May still do a shortblock rebuild at 2k, plus 2 boss heads, changing kit, misc gaskets and probably a new oil pump to play it safe. Pay for some pro assistance in checking and testing the rebuilt motor, and retune. Would be just a tick over 5k, right in the stock coyote replacement costs but with much more stout hardware (probably a bit more after cams and replacement of the cats now that I think about it).
#40
Like Father...
I ♥ Sausage
I ♥ Sausage
WOW! That head took a freaking beating!! Hopefully you can come up with a solution and salvage enough parts to come out in good shape rebuilding.