hi5.0

Dang, tough break there. Part of the reason to go with a all-aluminum radiator. Also don't like the idea of the plastic being stressed when securing the hose clamps. Maybe it would be a good time to flush the cooling system at some point and add something like RMI-25 or No-rosion to the antifreeze mix.

cntchds

Well amazingly enough the coolant that came out looked brand new. So I don't think there was really a corrosion problem.

edumspeed

It's just tired from age. If it was just the end tank, it can be replaced. But if you find a used radiator for less, that will work. At least yours will be back on the road soon

cntchds

Not trying to fix this one or find a used one. I just bought one for 130 with a lifetime warranty, so I think that's a good deal. The guy I talked to said "there are basically two choices when it comes to radiators. Buy cheap and it could either last the rest of your life, or the rest of the week. Buy expensive and it doesn't matter how long it lasts, cause I'll just keep giving you new ones if it breaks."

I decided the latter was a better deal since there was only a 30 dollar difference between the two.

edumspeed

Lifetime warranty FTW!!!

cntchds

Very true, and I scared I was going to have to use it on its first day out tonight...

I drove to the grocery store and home maybe 3 minutes each way with a 15 minute break in the middle and the car was in the midrange of the gauge by the time I got home. I thought that was really quick for how my car usually warms up...

I then realize that I had forgotten something at the store, so back in the car I go and low and behold by the time I get home the car is on the warmer side of the spectrum... like usual...

This still doesn't surprise me because there was nothing that was really impeding performance from the old one. It was structural failure at an insignificant (cooling wise) place. So getting the same result isn't really that surprising.

I then decide that I wanted to go to see my girlfriend, so I hop in the still warm car and start driving. About half-way there I look at my temp gauge. Pegged at hot. This is frightening. It's the same thing that happened just before the last one broke. So I pull into the closest parking lot which happens to have a CarQuest in it. Just as I'm getting close, though, I notice the closed sign on the door.

At this point I'm thinking "it must be the thermostat stuck closed," but then I think... Doesn't the coolant go into the engine at the bottom and come out at the top? If that is true, then the upper rad hose should be colt while the bottom one should be super hot. I touch the upper hose, and it's pretty toasty, making me think the thermostat must be open...

Now the weirder thing happens. My rad cap has a release pressure valve that can be manually lifted, so I lifted it to relieve pressure if there was any. Coolant started gushing out of the overflow and it lost probably just over a quart of coolant/water before it stopped. I didn't check the radiator afterward to see how much fluid it still had in it because it was hot, and I've seen what radiators can do to people when they are still hot, but it can't be lower than the fill level, since the tube to the overflow is pretty high on the neck of it.

Anyway, the car got home safely after a few hours of cooling down in the parking lot, but I just thought that I should share because I have no idea what's going on. I bought a new thermostat and gasket on my way home, so hopefully that may do something. If not, then I don't know what could be wrong. Water pump? "/

hi5.0

question: did you "burp" the system? could be an air pocket. thermostat and gasket worth a try - make sure it has a bypass hole to let air escape. if not, you can drill one. if the water pump is original, given your mileage, it may need to be replaced. IMO, still advocate the use of RMI-25 or No-rosion or a similar product for a little extra cooling system protection, used to use "water wetter" but it didn't really help much with operating temp. reduction.

cntchds

I did not know it was called burping, but yes.

I filled the rad. Ran the car until the level dropped, added more, repeated until it didn't drop anymore.

I may try the RMI-25 or No-Rosion stuff, but it really seems like it must be something blatantly wrong with the system. I've always thought of that stuff as band-aids, not real solutions to the problems.

hi5.0

Those aren't meant for temp. reduction - that was what I tried with the "water wetting" stuff. Meant to provide more anti-corrosion protection/ water pump lubrication - especially for the aluminum components in the system. Is your thermostat set to open at 192/195 degrees (factory) or at a lower temp (180)? Not familiar with SN95-later EEC V, but can you alter the fan activation temp with a tuner?

cntchds

The t-stat I have in now I want to say is a 195 unit. The one I bought today was a 185 which Kragen told me was listed at stock temp, so that got me kind of curious. As for the fan, I don't know. I know you can set it to a manual switch, but I don't have never noticed the fan to not be on anyway, so that isn't really a worry of mine.

edumspeed

Mine has a 180deg superstat from Pep Boys with a 1/8" hole drilled on it, so the burping is done faster. Have you checked the hoses on the water pump bypass and the ones on the heater tubes? They tend to get swollen and cause a blockage. Also if your ignition timing is too advanced it can cause overheating, but since you're telling it's an intermitent problem, I don't think that's causing it. I ran through two different thermostats figuring out wtf was going on with mine, until I found the coolant leaking from the timing cover gasket. I eventually put back the 180 and tossed away the 195. Also, it isn't a bad idea to replace that water pump since it's too old.

cntchds

Well I replaced the vacuum hose mess to the PCV valve and the intake with some fuel line (FREE!) and now the hanging idle and the RPM jump that happened everytime the clutch was depressed went away.

edumspeed

That deserves a

cntchds

True, but my fan is acting up, and I don't know why. It comes on sporadically, and it turns on high while the A/C is on, but it doesn't stay on. I don't know what's up with that.

hi5.0

May want to check the condition of the fan motor. Something could be up with the CCRM since it is responsible for A/C and fan control among other things. Then again, it could be something really simple. Electrical problems always get a thumbs-down. Good luck.

edumspeed

It's supposed to turn on & off with the A/C compressor cycling and when the engine reaches certain temp. Let's say it will turn on at 210 deg, then stay on until 195 deg. That's the way it should operate. But if during the cool down period it functions itermitently, there's definitively a problem. On the heater tube that goes into the lower intake, there's the coolant sensor. With the ignition in the ON position, disconnect the plug and the fan should come on at high speed. If it doesn't, check the fuses. Also, the wires that go to the fan motor don't look too sturdy from what I've seen on my car, so maybe one of them could be burnt or broken.
I hate electrical troubleshooting myself. It's a PITA.

cntchds

We have... heat? Hopefully the heater core doesn't spring a leak, but I plugged the hoses into it today since it is pretty chilly...

hi5.0

Hope it doesn't leak too. Major PITA to replace.

cntchds

So far so good. I think that a full day is a fairly good indication that there must have been some other reason it was disconnected other than the core being bad. Keeps me plenty toasty, and does a much better job than just the fan to defrost the windshield.

I want to recharge my A/C now, just to see how it's doing, but I don't think that they sell R12 recharge kits as much as R134A. Regardless I'm starting to want to spoil myself.

I've also got a bit of a rejuvenation itch. I realize now why parts I look at are so expensive... Because I want to buy "performance" parts when I should be looking at replacement parts. I found motor mounts for a grand total of 24 dollars on RockAuto.com which I'm purchasing soon. A transmission mount for 20 more. Stock replacement shocks/struts for 24/40 bucks respectively. All of which should make the car a lot more pleasant. I also saw a timing chain and sprockets for a bit over 30, which is kind of tempting. I guess time will tell what is going to be replaced and what will be left alone, but I'm really hoping I can make the car a bit easier to live with on a day to day basis.

hi5.0

Just monitor the smell - if you smell coolant inside the car or notice a film on the inner windshield, disconnect the heater core. Also watch for signs of leakage in the passenger foot well or out of the A/C drain hole on the firewall. As for AC, your car should use R134 already. Would be a good idea to thoroughly test where the leaks, if any, are located before attempting to recharge the system. IMO, if your car is lowered or has higher spring rates, go for something other than stock-type direct replacement struts and shocks. Something a little "sportier" to match your new spring rates.