BoogieNights

Is the front of the bumper rolled under?? Or is it basically just a sharp edge so to speak?

cntchds

Sharp edge. There is no part that goes back under the car.

BoogieNights

Yeah with that sharp edge everytime that you hit it on the ground it will more than likely chip or crack due to it "grabbing" the ground. You can try and modify it by making it roll under it will be a lot better. Then it will just sldie on top of the ground and not try ot dig in.

cntchds

Thanks, I'll have to have Arin look at it when he tries to repair the rest of it.

BoogieNights

Not a prob. I had to reapair a front bumper before. it can be a challenge at times.

cntchds

Just out of curiosity, did you do the fiberglass work while the bumper was still on the car? I want Arin to try to do it on the car, so that we don't just re-crack it when we put it back on.

BoogieNights

The front bumper I had to redo basically I had to take it off due to the type of molding I had to do to it. The center section was completely missing and I had to remake it. Thast the only reason why I took it off. Just out of curiousity, How thick is the bumper?? Is it 1/8"-1/4"- etc etc??

Here is a pic of that bumper after primer. I have more but I got to find them.

cntchds

That is far more impressive than I am expecting out of Arin.

I would love to see a before and after picture if you have it. That is some great work you've done.

BoogieNights

Well if you can picture this.......

The big opening in the middle. That part was completely gone from side to side on that part. That bumper was thin. The repair that I did was thicker than the rest of the bumper. I looked and they are not on this computer. They are on the computer at the house which I wont be there till Jan.


The only thing I did after this pic was get some automotive spray paint form Wally World and paint it black again.

hi5.0

+1 on removing for repair. Will be easier to work on. IMO, bevel the edges of the area to be repaired and if you can get a vacuum bag type set up, even better. Personally sick of fiberglass repairs - hate fixing my surfboards these days. Not even that good at it either.

GT5088

very true, removing it makes it easier to work on, for sure.

cntchds

Easier to work on, no doubt, but I'm afraid since most of the damaged areas are were damaged during installation (somewhat obvious due to where it flexed to be put on) I just feel like taking it off is just going to make it break when we put it back on again.

BoogieNights

Well If you take it off again to roll the bottom under again you will be able to reinforce those spots that are weak and can see flex when you put it on.

cntchds

I've been starting to look into a 96-98 Cobra. I think that they are in a price range so comparable to GT's that it doesn't even make sense not to buy a Cobra if you are going 96-01... I'm not really looking too hard, I just got a real good itch today.

future9er24

he wont shut up about em

GT5088

hahaha...well, they do look good.

cntchds

Agreed...

305 horse, 300 tq... How much more can a boy ask for?

future9er24

put up an ad tonight and say its a "feeler" that way you can get an idea of what kind of offers you're going to be getting for it and you can do cobra planning accordingly

hi5.0

Don't worry like Tim "The Toolman" Taylor, you'll want "more power."

cntchds

Well the one I had my eyes set on today said no go for my car+cash since it'll take me two weeks to get said cash.

So I'm thinking about maybe putting my car back to stock ish to fund the Cobra. I think I could get more for parts for the intake/heads/exhaust/gauges/springs/dampers than I could from selling the car with them on, so I might as well sell those off as parts.

Then I'll buy stock 94-98 seats for the front. Sell it for 2,500 plus the money I get for the parts minus the gasket set and money for the seats. Then when I buy the car I can just put my seats in and basically have "my car" just with a little less this and that, and a little more :tire squeal: :Accelerationnnnnnnn!!!!!: