The 'ask any detailing question' thread
#261
Super Boss Lawman Member
haha Roger that, Ron...
A lot of misconception in the post above, that detailing is only for "professionals" and that "it takes too much time". Reading comprehension, and a desire to learn and a sincere effort in caring for a vehicle is all one needs to keep it looking 90% or better than other cars on the road.
Once it's swirl-free, just keep it swirl-free.... that's my favorite saying
A lot of misconception in the post above, that detailing is only for "professionals" and that "it takes too much time". Reading comprehension, and a desire to learn and a sincere effort in caring for a vehicle is all one needs to keep it looking 90% or better than other cars on the road.
Once it's swirl-free, just keep it swirl-free.... that's my favorite saying
My F150, which is my snow driver, is another story. I need to invest in a polisher that has enough rpm to be effective.
#262
I Have No Life
Best to check under proper lighting to verify if surface is swirl free.... If it is, great!!! If not, polish time! Easy....
#263
Super Boss Lawman Member
Time of ownership is not a guarantee of being swirl free, as is use of a wash brush. Swirls can already be there from the dealer, or from your regular washing with a mitt bucket. Reasons can all stem from improper washing, drying, or detailing techniques.
Best to check under proper lighting to verify if surface is swirl free.... If it is, great!!! If not, polish time! Easy....
Best to check under proper lighting to verify if surface is swirl free.... If it is, great!!! If not, polish time! Easy....
#265
FR500 Member
Join Date: December 9, 2011
Location: Corpus Christi, TX
Posts: 3,513
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Everytime i ask my dealer not to wash my car after service checkups they always do and it ends being a swirly mess of dirt.... I seriously wanna grab the water gun and chammy from the porters hands and throw em in the trash sometimes
#266
Mach 1 Member
When I owned my Jeep Grand Cherokee.. the Jeep dealership did. I made signs in English and Spanish and taped them to all of the windows inside and out and attached one to the steering wheel that said "DO NOT WASH THIS VEHICLE" I also had the service writer write "DO NOT WASH THIS VEHICLE" on the service order. They respected my wishes.
#268
FR500 Member
Join Date: December 9, 2011
Location: Corpus Christi, TX
Posts: 3,513
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Oh i showed em, and asked for a proper swirl free detail and they had the audacity to say ithey would charge me 120 bucks! Needless to say i walked away from that deal, spent 20 bucks on some microfibers from a detail shop in town and took care of it myself with IMO breathtaking results
#269
Ok. After watching autogeek it looks like I need a power tool to get the swirls out. My Stang is an '06. Paint is "ok" with lots is swirls.
1. How many times can you unswirl your paint?
2. Can I get a recommendation on a "kit" that will have all I need?
3. There is a spot of super swirls on my paint I'm worried about. It's lighter than the rest of the car.
Picture of spot attached.
Thanks for any help/recommendations.
1. How many times can you unswirl your paint?
2. Can I get a recommendation on a "kit" that will have all I need?
3. There is a spot of super swirls on my paint I'm worried about. It's lighter than the rest of the car.
Picture of spot attached.
Thanks for any help/recommendations.
#270
Bullitt Member
Ok. After watching autogeek it looks like I need a power tool to get the swirls out. My Stang is an '06. Paint is "ok" with lots is swirls.
1. How many times can you unswirl your paint?
2. Can I get a recommendation on a "kit" that will have all I need?
3. There is a spot of super swirls on my paint I'm worried about. It's lighter than the rest of the car.
Picture of spot attached.
Thanks for any help/recommendations.
1. How many times can you unswirl your paint?
2. Can I get a recommendation on a "kit" that will have all I need?
3. There is a spot of super swirls on my paint I'm worried about. It's lighter than the rest of the car.
Picture of spot attached.
Thanks for any help/recommendations.
I'll take a stab at answering your questions:
1) This really depends on several things, including how thick your clear coat is to start, how deep the swirls/scratches are you are trying to remove, and how aggressive you are in removing them in the first place. The key is to do it properly ONCE, then maintain the paint over time. I'd like a pro to chime in and give you an idea of how thick your car's clear coat was to start - my '14 is somewhere in the 120-160mil range (if I recall correctly). Fairly thick compared to some other cars.
2) Kits are never a great idea, as they tend to be the "meh" of most products. Instead, piece together the proper tools. For instance, a great starter Random-Orbit Polisher is the Porter Cable XP7424xp. Street price should be around $120 give or take. If you're on a budget Harbor Freight has one that gets decent (but not great) reviews for about $60 on sale (less if you have one of their 20% off coupons). Flex is another well-respected brand, but it tends to be more expensive.
With the polisher you will need a few things - pads and a backing plate. For beginners, you should invest in a 5" backing plate and 5 1/2" pads as they are easier to work with. The pads themselves come in various materials: foam, microfiber, wool. Each has it's intended purpose. I chose to use foam as it's the most popular for swirl removal, others may have other opinions. The foam pads come in different colors - these determine how much 'cut' they have. For a VERY BADLY scratched/swirled car, you should work with either Yellow (VERY AGGRESSIVE) or Orange (AGGRESSIVE) pads. You work you way up to less and less aggressive pads as you fix your paint.
On the pads, you will need polish. There are MANY manufacturers of polish out there and about just as many suggestions as to which one is "best". Fact of the matter is, it's easier to list which products to stay away from. Many users on the forums will recommend Meguiars m105 and m205, others (like me) prefer Chemical Guys V32 - v38, while still others prefer Menzerna products. Pick one (or one of the other quality brands) and go with it. There are plenty of tutorials here to teach you the technique. I recommend watching Junkman's video - he's a wealth of knowledge for the beginner.
3) As for the lighter spot - that's most likely light reflecting through a severly scuffed clear coat. It could also be wax or soap caked in the swirls. Take some Isopropyl Alcohol (91%, diluted 1:3 with water) and wipe the area down and see if that helps. Once you're done correcting the paint, it'll most likely go away. It may require more effort than other parts of the car.
Some final thoughts:
I am NOT a professional, nor do I claim to be any kind of expert. In fact, I just bought my car 2 months ago after driving a beater pickup truck for 12 years. I DO do my homework though and I spent HOURS researching, reading, and watching videos to learn how to do this properly.
One of the most common denominators is that "technique trumps product". Don't get as hung up on WHAT BRAND to buy as WHAT TYPE OF PRODUCT you need to get the job done. Coca Cola and Pepsi taste different, but both are multi-billion dollar companies. It's not because one is better than the other - it's that each appeals to a different audience. Some of the product 'hype' out there is exactly that - marketing ($800 Carnauba Wax, for example). Some of it is product quality vs. cheaper products. Some of it is using the RIGHT product for it's intended purpose (Lexol is NOT the right leather care product for your car's interior).
Another thought is this - take your time! If you are in a rush, you CANNOT do a proper job. There are threads here where folks have taken DAYS to de-swirl a vehicle. If you're getting tired/if your equipment is overheating...STOP. Take a break. Grab your favorite refreshing beverage and relax for a bit. You should ENJOY your time with your vehicle. Inspect your progress. Go back and re-do an area if you're not happy with the results.
Final thought - once you've corrected your paint, learn proper car washing techniques to prevent them from coming back. Watch
I've taken up more than enough time here - I'll let others chime in. Hopefully this helps. Good luck - you'll do fine!
Last edited by ColSaulTigh; 8/2/13 at 06:09 AM.
#271
Hi Mike,
I'll take a stab at answering your questions:
1) This really depends on several things, including how thick your clear coat is to start, how deep the swirls/scratches are you are trying to remove, and how aggressive you are in removing them in the first place. The key is to do it properly ONCE, then maintain the paint over time. I'd like a pro to chime in and give you an idea of how thick your car's clear coat was to start - my '14 is somewhere in the 120-160mil range (if I recall correctly). Fairly thick compared to some other cars.
2) Kits are never a great idea, as they tend to be the "meh" of most products. Instead, piece together the proper tools. For instance, a great starter Random-Orbit Polisher is the Porter Cable XP7424xp. Street price should be around $120 give or take. If you're on a budget Harbor Freight has one that gets decent (but not great) reviews for about $60 on sale (less if you have one of their 20% off coupons). Flex is another well-respected brand, but it tends to be more expensive.
With the polisher you will need a few things - pads and a backing plate. For beginners, you should invest in a 5" backing plate and 5 1/2" pads as they are easier to work with. The pads themselves come in various materials: foam, microfiber, wool. Each has it's intended purpose. I chose to use foam as it's the most popular for swirl removal, others may have other opinions. The foam pads come in different colors - these determine how much 'cut' they have. For a VERY BADLY scratched/swirled car, you should work with either Yellow (VERY AGGRESSIVE) or Orange (AGGRESSIVE) pads. You work you way up to less and less aggressive pads as you fix your paint.
On the pads, you will need polish. There are MANY manufacturers of polish out there and about just as many suggestions as to which one is "best". Fact of the matter is, it's easier to list which products to stay away from. Many users on the forums will recommend Meguiars m105 and m205, others (like me) prefer Chemical Guys V32 - v38, while still others prefer Menzerna products. Pick one (or one of the other quality brands) and go with it. There are plenty of tutorials here to teach you the technique. I recommend watching Junkman's video - he's a wealth of knowledge for the beginner.
3) As for the lighter spot - that's most likely light reflecting through a severly scuffed clear coat. It could also be wax or soap caked in the swirls. Take some Isopropyl Alcohol (91%, diluted 1:3 with water) and wipe the area down and see if that helps. Once you're done correcting the paint, it'll most likely go away. It may require more effort than other parts of the car.
Some final thoughts:
I am NOT a professional, nor do I claim to be any kind of expert. In fact, I just bought my car 2 months ago after driving a beater pickup truck for 12 years. I DO do my homework though and I spent HOURS researching, reading, and watching videos to learn how to do this properly.
One of the most common denominators is that "technique trumps product". Don't get as hung up on WHAT BRAND to buy as WHAT TYPE OF PRODUCT you need to get the job done. Coca Cola and Pepsi taste different, but both are multi-billion dollar companies. It's not because one is better than the other - it's that each appeals to a different audience. Some of the product 'hype' out there is exactly that - marketing ($800 Carnauba Wax, for example). Some of it is product quality vs. cheaper products. Some of it is using the RIGHT product for it's intended purpose (Lexol is NOT the right leather care product for your car's interior).
Another thought is this - take your time! If you are in a rush, you CANNOT do a proper job. There are threads here where folks have taken DAYS to de-swirl a vehicle. If you're getting tired/if your equipment is overheating...STOP. Take a break. Grab your favorite refreshing beverage and relax for a bit. You should ENJOY your time with your vehicle. Inspect your progress. Go back and re-do an area if you're not happy with the results.
Final thought - once you've corrected your paint, learn proper car washing techniques to prevent them from coming back. Watch Video Link: http://youtu.be/w09r6m6sRCA to get an idea of the proper way to clean your car without putting more swirls in it.
I've taken up more than enough time here - I'll let others chime in. Hopefully this helps. Good luck - you'll do fine!
Griots has a swirl kit with orbital, two polishes. Three pads and some microfiber a for $225
Autogeek has the one you recommended with the 3" adapter plus 3"pads plus pad cleaners for the same price.
I'm just worried the paint is damaged with the bad place and maybe all the clear is gone. I don't want to ruin it.
#272
Bullitt Member
Thanks for your help.
Griots has a swirl kit with orbital, two polishes. Three pads and some microfiber a for $225
Autogeek has the one you recommended with the 3" adapter plus 3"pads plus pad cleaners for the same price.
I'm just worried the paint is damaged with the bad place and maybe all the clear is gone. I don't want to ruin it.
Griots has a swirl kit with orbital, two polishes. Three pads and some microfiber a for $225
Autogeek has the one you recommended with the 3" adapter plus 3"pads plus pad cleaners for the same price.
I'm just worried the paint is damaged with the bad place and maybe all the clear is gone. I don't want to ruin it.
#274
Detailing Guru
Join Date: May 16, 2011
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 348
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok. After watching autogeek it looks like I need a power tool to get the swirls out. My Stang is an '06. Paint is "ok" with lots is swirls.
1. How many times can you unswirl your paint?
2. Can I get a recommendation on a "kit" that will have all I need?
3. There is a spot of super swirls on my paint I'm worried about. It's lighter than the rest of the car.
Picture of spot attached.
Thanks for any help/recommendations.
1. How many times can you unswirl your paint?
2. Can I get a recommendation on a "kit" that will have all I need?
3. There is a spot of super swirls on my paint I'm worried about. It's lighter than the rest of the car.
Picture of spot attached.
Thanks for any help/recommendations.
From the pic, it looks like everything shown is fixable. Where about do you live?
#276
2013 RR Boss 302 #2342
Join Date: March 6, 2012
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 11,734
Likes: 0
Received 2,253 Likes
on
1,679 Posts
Without going through this thread what product(s) do you guys recommend for the interiors? I have the cloth Recaros and interior with Alcantra steering wheel. Was never much of an Armoral fan it left a greasy film. :-)
Last edited by Mustang Freak; 8/4/13 at 04:58 AM.
#277
Mach 1 Member
I clean my interior with Meguiars' Ultimate quick interior detailer. I recently got some Sonus dashboard cleaner and will be trying that when I prep Lauren Renee for the next Mustang Car Club of New England show.
#278
I Have No Life
#279
NTTAWWT
The Col had it mostly right. I do want to point out that you should always do a test panel, and go with the least aggressive method to get the swirls out. Think of it being like sand paper - on your test panel, you want to start with say a 4500, if it doesn't work, then try 3500, 2500, etc until you get the desired results. Then when you figure out what works, on the rest of the car, working 2x2 sections, start with the 2500 (if that's what it took), then the 3500, then the 4500.
This video (and several from /driveclean, and AMMONYCdotcom) is excellent for instructional purposes. The AMMONYC channel also has a video where he works on the Alcantara from a Bugatti to show you how to clean that as well.
This video (and several from /driveclean, and AMMONYCdotcom) is excellent for instructional purposes. The AMMONYC channel also has a video where he works on the Alcantara from a Bugatti to show you how to clean that as well.
Last edited by StangMahn; 8/4/13 at 10:04 AM.
#280
Bullitt Member
The Col had it mostly right. I do want to point out that you should always do a test panel, and go with the least aggressive method to get the swirls out. Think of it being like sand paper - on your test panel, you want to start with say a 4500, if it doesn't work, then try 3500, 2500, etc until you get the desired results. Then when you figure out what works, on the rest of the car, working 2x2 sections, start with the 2500 (if that's what it took), then the 3500, then the 4500.
This video (and several from /driveclean, and AMMONYCdotcom) is excellent for instructional purposes. The AMMONYC channel also has a video where he works on the Alcantara from a Bugatti to show you how to clean that as well.
Paint Correction on 1958 Porsche Speedster - /DRIVE CLEAN - YouTube
This video (and several from /driveclean, and AMMONYCdotcom) is excellent for instructional purposes. The AMMONYC channel also has a video where he works on the Alcantara from a Bugatti to show you how to clean that as well.
Paint Correction on 1958 Porsche Speedster - /DRIVE CLEAN - YouTube
Good point. I was making my recommendation based on what I saw on his picture, but as a general practice, going for lighter to more aggressive polish makes sense.