DaGonz

I clean the inside barrels, too. I use Sonax Full Effect and Daytona speed brushes to clean my wheels.

MarcHarris

Bingo. And when you do this from day one, they stay mint and easy to take care of.

"The inside of my wheels is cleaner than the outside of yours."

wheelman

What's the best way to spiffy up exhaust tips? I've used clay and some chrome polish, but they need more love, I'm guessing a buffing of some kind.

Glenn

http://autogeek.commerce-search.net/...hes+&x=39&y=11


nice stuff and with the forum discount = gotta have that stuff

FromZto5

Amen to this Ron. Although, I actually stopped using sonax because I just smelled so potent plus I had to use gloves. It was almost toxic. So if I was concerned for my breathing safety, I started worrying about what it was doing to my nice clearcoated wheels!!!

I use amazing roll off (ARO) instead. Wonderful product. Does what sonax does without the toxicity.

MarcHarris

Understandable concerns. You'll be happy to know that products like Sonax Full Effect don't work by using harsh chemicals, but rather a certain type of chemical reaction. The solution hits ferrous metal particles and reacts, causing the metal to break down and turn into a salt, which can then easily be rinsed away from the finish. By using a certain solution that reacts this way with certain type of metal particles, you can easily and quickly dissolve otherwise tough to remove brake dust in it's entirety. I think you'll find that using such a product will leave your wheels fully cleaner (especially on a micro level) than other wheel cleaners, which will help to preserve their finish over time much better.

On the flip side, I fully support not using anything you're nervous or concerned about.

MustangDude

Thanks for the information, looks like the way to go. I can handle the smell to get the barrels clean.

Any recommendations about using a sealant once you get them clean? Thanks.

CCTking

I used to use klasse high gloss sealant or any collinite wax. That collinite stuff is almost like a sealant but in a wax form, very very durable. I recommend using one or the other (two thin coats for either one) to help keep wheels cleaner longer, and making cleanup easier as time goes on

MustangDude

Thanks for the info. Is there a forum discount code or is that done at the time of checkout?

DaGonz

Anyone who has detailed a BMW or Mercedes with a crapload of brake dust encrusted on the wheels would understand. FYI... I use Sonax on my Mustang's wheels only once or twice a year. I use regular car wash and soap and water to maintain them. When you follow the regimen at each wash, it is relatively easy to keep them clean.

wheelman

Didn't know about forum discount for them but you can use code AUCOUPON right now for 10% in conjunction with their sale.

R33F

Hello. I'm expecting to finally take delivery of my 2014 GT next week. I've read through 95% of this thread but did not see an exact answer to a question I have. I want to take care of !y Mustang correctly from the get go.

Based off of thread recommendations and my budget, I have purchased Meguire's Ultimate Liquid Wax... I have a matte black super snake stripe... Is my wax safe for the stripe or would it be better to avoid wax on it and then rub some Meguire's Quick Detailer (or something of the like) on the stripes to avoid wax residue and build-up on my vinyl stripes while still putting some kind of protectant on them? I also bought the Meguir's Ultimate Wash and Wax... I'm assuming there is no problem washing the stripes with this but If so, please let me know.

Marc, or any of you detailer experts, I would greatly appreciate your advice; thanks!

MarcHarris

Wax will only potentially be a problem when you get on the edge of the stripes, where residue isn't easy to wipe away. A higher end wax will be fine on the matte stripes as it shouldn't have cleaners or abrasives that would leave a white chalky finish.

The most important thing from the get-go is good habits. Two-bucket wash. Quality microfiber towels. Regular waxing/sealing prior to protection failing. There are a lot of things you can use: how much to do you want to spend/invest?

R33F

Marc, thanks for the reply. I'm assuming you didn't mean my Meguires Ultimate when you were talking about the higher end waxes, or did you? As far as budget, I'd prefer to be able to stick with products I can grab at the store for 20 bucks or less. I may go to a painted stripe years down the road but would like to make the vinyl one last as long as it can with the budget I mentioned above. Any OTC recommends other than what I've got?:
Meguires Ultimate Liquid Wax, Meguires Ultimate Wash and Wax, Meguires Quick Detailer.
Thanks again, this is a great thread and you're a great resource for car care advice!

MarcHarris

The Meg's Ultimate line has been very well received, but I have limited experience with it. I'm thinking you should be good to go using it, but I can't say for 100% sure.

I know the Ultimate Quick Wax (black spray bottle, yellow GT-R on the front) is awesome stuff: it's a very nice spray sealant that I'd recommend using after every wash (once you've dried your baby off) for added protection and slickness.

I know you want to stay OTC, which honestly is fine except you'll have a few missing links in your arsenal. In your situation, I'm thinking a product you might want to honestly consider would be something like Dodo Juice Lime Prime (NOT Lime Prime LITE) pre-wax cleanser. Here's why:

You're going to be mostly working by hand, so ease of use and quick results are a must. This means most polishes should be crossed off the list as they need to be properly worked in a smooth and even manner. It's hard to be even when you're using hand pressure. Still, having something with a little bit of cut could provide you with great use. Two situations come to my mind of when you'd use this product.
1. Directly after you clay bar your car. Claying is wonderful to remove contamination that doesn't come loose with normal washing, but it'll likely mar the finish (very shallow damage that looks like a hazy spot). You don't need hardcore polishing to remove this type of damage because it is so shallow, but you WILL need something lightly abrasive.
2. Once every few seasons. Over time, your baby is going to get some light marks in it even with the best care. If you've been good to her, then the damage you inflict will be very shallow. Just as above, very shallow damage doesn't need aggressive polishing, but will need something lightly abrasive to fix.

In addition to fixing light damage, the nature of Lime Prime is to be used directly before a wax. Of course Dodo Juice will want you to use one of their nice carnauba's, but in honesty, you can use whatever you'd like. Aside from lightly polishing out damage, Lime Prime will leave the finish slicker with a silky feel that adds gloss and makes wax go on easier. I must warn you that while this all might sound good, it will be somewhat time consuming and tiring (especially by hand in light circular motions), hence why you'd only likely use it 2 or so times a year.

For those interested in such a product but without the need for the abrasives, they also make Lime Prime Lite, a product I made an article about here: http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...cleaner-glaze/

MarcHarris

While Lime Prime is certainly an OPTIONAL purchase, there are some thing that should not be considered optional.

Grit Guards:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Grit-Gu...d-Insert-P119/

Microfiber:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Microfiber-C24/


Word of advice with microfiber: care is super important as the towel costs add up. You can purchase cheaper bulk towels, and they're usually good for a wash or two, but adding a few paint-only towels to your collection will help to better pamper your baby and will last much longer. Something thick and made well will be better to remove wax or to use with a spray wax. Having 4 of these should be awesome: http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...05/16-x-16-S1/


Drying microfiber towels are large and soak up a lot of water. Treat them well and they're only used to remove clean water after a wash. I have drying towels that still work great and are 4+ years old. They're an investment that pays for themselves. http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...00/36-x-24-S1/

R33F

Awesome, thanks! This all ties in with older posts I remember reading... I think I've got a good handle on how to proceed.

Now I did plan to clay bar to help with the rail dust and contaminates from transport, but would you say I need to go ahead and do the polish as you mentioned before the wax on the first go? Or hold off on that until the next deep clean in a few months?

Sorry for the rolling questions... Thanks for the responses!

R33F

I didn't mean polish, I meant the Dodo Juice press wax...

2011 Kona Blue

The best way to clean the exhaust tip inside and out is fully wetting a piece of aluminum foil. The water creates a chemical reaction with the aluminium foil too remove any rust or discoloration from the exhaust.

MarcHarris

Whether or not you clay your car and polish your car when you first get it is completely up to you. How do you feel about how it looks? How much work are you willing to put in?