The 'ask any detailing question' thread
#121
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Need advise on stripes. My car is due for its first wax job. It is race red with the factory matte black stripes. I have read not to get wax on the stripes so I was planning on using blue painters masking tape on the stripes so I dont hit them by accident while waxing. I am not sure though if the tape will leave residue behind.
Also, if I wax the paint and not the stripes, seems like the stripes will degrade over time. Is there something I can apply to the stripes that will protect them and not discolor over time? Thanks.
Also, if I wax the paint and not the stripes, seems like the stripes will degrade over time. Is there something I can apply to the stripes that will protect them and not discolor over time? Thanks.
#122
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Need advise on stripes. My car is due for its first wax job. It is race red with the factory matte black stripes. I have read not to get wax on the stripes so I was planning on using blue painters masking tape on the stripes so I dont hit them by accident while waxing. I am not sure though if the tape will leave residue behind.
Also, if I wax the paint and not the stripes, seems like the stripes will degrade over time. Is there something I can apply to the stripes that will protect them and not discolor over time? Thanks.
Also, if I wax the paint and not the stripes, seems like the stripes will degrade over time. Is there something I can apply to the stripes that will protect them and not discolor over time? Thanks.
Color combo is no doubt killer, but how you choose to take care of the vinyl stripes will depend on what you're using.
Use a wax with abrasives or cleaning agents in it, and you need to avoid the stripes. Use something more specialized like you can purchase online, and you can put it on everything to include the stripes.
Some people will recommend a product like 303 Aerospace Protectant for your stripes, and that'll work well. However, if you want something killer that I believe is your best bet, look into the spray product Optimum Car Wax. http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum...P280/17-oz-S1/
While awesome for stripes, I don't recommend it as much for the rest of the car's paint. Hope this helps.
#123
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Have any of you tried this?
http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-swirl-removers.html
http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-swirl-removers.html
#124
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Poor poor AG. What shady marketing. Works on all clear-coats? Ssssssuuuurrrreeee it does.
I especially love their photo proof in which they use a more intense whitish-blue light for the before, and then use a standard 2300k halogen for the after. In addition to using two different lights, more yellowish light will make red paint look more warm/orange. They then say the products "intensified the color" of the paint.
Does anyone else need proof of why I say to stay away from AG?
I especially love their photo proof in which they use a more intense whitish-blue light for the before, and then use a standard 2300k halogen for the after. In addition to using two different lights, more yellowish light will make red paint look more warm/orange. They then say the products "intensified the color" of the paint.
Does anyone else need proof of why I say to stay away from AG?
#125
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Poor poor AG. What shady marketing. Works on all clear-coats? Ssssssuuuurrrreeee it does.
I especially love their photo proof in which they use a more intense whitish-blue light for the before, and then use a standard 2300k halogen for the after. In addition to using two different lights, more yellowish light will make red paint look more warm/orange. They then say the products "intensified the color" of the paint.
Does anyone else need proof of why I say to stay away from AG?
I especially love their photo proof in which they use a more intense whitish-blue light for the before, and then use a standard 2300k halogen for the after. In addition to using two different lights, more yellowish light will make red paint look more warm/orange. They then say the products "intensified the color" of the paint.
Does anyone else need proof of why I say to stay away from AG?
Just gotta be able to decide for yourself if different products are worth it. As long as you know more than the average joe schmoe detailer then AG isnt all that bad IMHO
#127
GTR Member
OK gents, time for me to jump in at the deep end!
I've considered getting my '05 professionally detailed and have a quote for 50 hours/£500. This is the sort of figure I was expecting, BUT, I'd really like to do this myself, so I'm looking to buy a DA and appropriate polish/wax/sealant.
I'm looking at this DA that comes with Meguiars 105 and 205
Obviously I'll be reading instructions VERY carefully (and I'll be practicing on my e46 BMW 330i!!) however.......this is my assumption so far on the process I'll follow:
Wash and dry car
Clay bar car
Megs 105 for the initial cutting
Megs 205 for a high quality finish.
Now, a few detailed questions. Does 205 act as a sealant?
I've heard good things about Poor Boys products, and Black Hole sounds like it could be ideal for my black Stang!
Then there's EX-P sealant, which I'm guessing is the final step!
So, does Black Hole do the same as 205? If not, would you advise all 4 products?
I've considered getting my '05 professionally detailed and have a quote for 50 hours/£500. This is the sort of figure I was expecting, BUT, I'd really like to do this myself, so I'm looking to buy a DA and appropriate polish/wax/sealant.
I'm looking at this DA that comes with Meguiars 105 and 205
Obviously I'll be reading instructions VERY carefully (and I'll be practicing on my e46 BMW 330i!!) however.......this is my assumption so far on the process I'll follow:
Wash and dry car
Clay bar car
Megs 105 for the initial cutting
Megs 205 for a high quality finish.
Now, a few detailed questions. Does 205 act as a sealant?
I've heard good things about Poor Boys products, and Black Hole sounds like it could be ideal for my black Stang!
Then there's EX-P sealant, which I'm guessing is the final step!
So, does Black Hole do the same as 205? If not, would you advise all 4 products?
#128
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Hey there Joe.
Color combo is no doubt killer, but how you choose to take care of the vinyl stripes will depend on what you're using.
Use a wax with abrasives or cleaning agents in it, and you need to avoid the stripes. Use something more specialized like you can purchase online, and you can put it on everything to include the stripes.
Some people will recommend a product like 303 Aerospace Protectant for your stripes, and that'll work well. However, if you want something killer that I believe is your best bet, look into the spray product Optimum Car Wax. http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum...P280/17-oz-S1/
While awesome for stripes, I don't recommend it as much for the rest of the car's paint. Hope this helps.
Color combo is no doubt killer, but how you choose to take care of the vinyl stripes will depend on what you're using.
Use a wax with abrasives or cleaning agents in it, and you need to avoid the stripes. Use something more specialized like you can purchase online, and you can put it on everything to include the stripes.
Some people will recommend a product like 303 Aerospace Protectant for your stripes, and that'll work well. However, if you want something killer that I believe is your best bet, look into the spray product Optimum Car Wax. http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum...P280/17-oz-S1/
While awesome for stripes, I don't recommend it as much for the rest of the car's paint. Hope this helps.
1. Meguiars GoldClass Carnauba Plus
2. Meguiars Ultimate Quik Detalier
3. Aerospace Protectant 303
I am hoping what this stuff I sould have all I need although I am not sure what the detailer does.
JC
#131
OK gents, time for me to jump in at the deep end!
I've considered getting my '05 professionally detailed and have a quote for 50 hours/£500. This is the sort of figure I was expecting, BUT, I'd really like to do this myself, so I'm looking to buy a DA and appropriate polish/wax/sealant.
I'm looking at this DA that comes with Meguiars 105 and 205
Obviously I'll be reading instructions VERY carefully (and I'll be practicing on my e46 BMW 330i!!) however.......this is my assumption so far on the process I'll follow:
Wash and dry car
Clay bar car
Megs 105 for the initial cutting
Megs 205 for a high quality finish.
Now, a few detailed questions. Does 205 act as a sealant?
I've heard good things about Poor Boys products, and Black Hole sounds like it could be ideal for my black Stang!
Then there's EX-P sealant, which I'm guessing is the final step!
So, does Black Hole do the same as 205? If not, would you advise all 4 products?
I've considered getting my '05 professionally detailed and have a quote for 50 hours/£500. This is the sort of figure I was expecting, BUT, I'd really like to do this myself, so I'm looking to buy a DA and appropriate polish/wax/sealant.
I'm looking at this DA that comes with Meguiars 105 and 205
Obviously I'll be reading instructions VERY carefully (and I'll be practicing on my e46 BMW 330i!!) however.......this is my assumption so far on the process I'll follow:
Wash and dry car
Clay bar car
Megs 105 for the initial cutting
Megs 205 for a high quality finish.
Now, a few detailed questions. Does 205 act as a sealant?
I've heard good things about Poor Boys products, and Black Hole sounds like it could be ideal for my black Stang!
Then there's EX-P sealant, which I'm guessing is the final step!
So, does Black Hole do the same as 205? If not, would you advise all 4 products?
#132
#133
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While i agree the marketing isnt the greatest, ive had nothing but good things to say about their availability and decent prices. Theres just about eerything you need to care for every inch of your vehicle.
Just gotta be able to decide for yourself if different products are worth it. As long as you know more than the average joe schmoe detailer then AG isnt all that bad IMHO
Just gotta be able to decide for yourself if different products are worth it. As long as you know more than the average joe schmoe detailer then AG isnt all that bad IMHO
Detailersdomain.com out of New Jersey which sponsors a TON of forums across the internet. Phil and his crew have been bringing hard to find products to the NA market since before I got into this.
BuffDaddy.com from California run be the famous Kevin Brown: the guy responsible for getting pro's to switch from rotary polishers to DAs to do the majority of their correction work. He's not just experienced; he's a scientist to the community that has done more to expand knowledge of how things work than anyone.
There are more, but this is who I mainly use now. I've also used AutoDetailingSolutions, Pakshak, and some others in the past. And yes, I've used AG/Palm Beach Motoring in the past just as many others. That stopped as soon as I began to learn more about their company.
#134
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There are two extremes: a polish that doesn't cause a lot of build-up on pads and is therefore very dusty, or a polish that doesn't dust, but causes a lot of build up on pads.
Body-shops tend to like things that dust more. Product build up means you have to clean your pads more often or switch pads more often. They can therefore get by with less pads.
OEMs like no dust. Dust near a paint booth can cause horrible problems in paint jobs. They tend to like products that are a bit more oily which is why Menzerna polishes have been used in OEM facilities. These products don't cause dreadful dust, but do require users to swap out for fresh pads much more often.
Lots of products are somewhere between, but as you can imagine, there's always a trade-off.
#135
They are very easy to work with, with the main downside being dusting.
There are two extremes: a polish that doesn't cause a lot of build-up on pads and is therefore very dusty, or a polish that doesn't dust, but causes a lot of build up on pads.
Body-shops tend to like things that dust more. Product build up means you have to clean your pads more often or switch pads more often. They can therefore get by with less pads.
OEMs like no dust. Dust near a paint booth can cause horrible problems in paint jobs. They tend to like products that are a bit more oily which is why Menzerna polishes have been used in OEM facilities. These products don't cause dreadful dust, but do require users to swap out for fresh pads much more often.
Lots of products are somewhere between, but as you can imagine, there's always a trade-off.
There are two extremes: a polish that doesn't cause a lot of build-up on pads and is therefore very dusty, or a polish that doesn't dust, but causes a lot of build up on pads.
Body-shops tend to like things that dust more. Product build up means you have to clean your pads more often or switch pads more often. They can therefore get by with less pads.
OEMs like no dust. Dust near a paint booth can cause horrible problems in paint jobs. They tend to like products that are a bit more oily which is why Menzerna polishes have been used in OEM facilities. These products don't cause dreadful dust, but do require users to swap out for fresh pads much more often.
Lots of products are somewhere between, but as you can imagine, there's always a trade-off.
I've got the Meg's MF kit on order. Should be here on Thursday. I'm very much looking forward to giving it a go on my wife's daily driver.
#136
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If you'd like to do a little research/reading on polishing: Kevin Brown is the man: http://www.buffdaddy.com/kevinbrownmethod
#139
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Spray, agitate, thoroughly rinse clean. Enjoy CLEAN wheels.
#140
Also, still curious on the correct ratio of Simple Green to water for cleaning wax/polishing foam pads.
Last edited by Steven; 5/2/13 at 09:22 AM.