is it wide open at the carb when you have it floored like John asked?

 

i've always thought so, though I guess it would be good to check. It has no problems reving to the end of the tach in first and second gear.

I'll check that again this weekend. I really don't think the throttle linkage is the issue here though. Its definitely important to check, but theres got to be more thats causing it

 

Ok. I'll weigh in. I have a 69 Coupe with the original 302-2v setup with a C4 tranny running 2.79 gears with an open rear end. I have 15" steel wheels with 225/60/15 tires. I was able to bury the speedometer past 120 on the freeway with a LITTLE bit of pedal left. My tire diameter is a little bit off from stock so perhaps putting the speedo past 120 was more like being equal to 120. My motor always seemed strong to me based on the fact of 2-barrel carb and 2.79 gears. This was about 15 years ago.

I have since rebuilt the motor with a stock 351W cam, slightly higher compression, roller rockers, a duraspark distributor and MSD 6A box. I still run the original 2-barrel carburetor, cast iron intake and 2.79 gears. I don't know if I'd be as willing to try and run the car at 120+ these days with a family at home etc. but it still pulls strong up to 100 easily enough.

I would think you could get the C4 rebuilt for under $500 if you think that that is the culprit. I had my tranny rebuilt when I did the motor just to have everything fresh and it cost around $300 back in the early 90s.

 

Grr, I hope its not the trans. I was told it had very low (2500) miles on it when I bought it. It had just been rebuilt by the shop I bought it from, and I got it at a good price because the shop was closing down

My 2 barrel V6 was right up there until 120, but I'm just repeating myself now. Its more than a little annoying. Maybe a pre-EFI distributor is the way to go? Assuming the distributor is the limiting factor right now. I've got to figure this out

 

got a little bored the other night, heres some pics from my phone at the community college after my ill fated "speed run"

 

Yea, I'd start with the distributor, if its from a EFI car. You can pick up an electronic distributor at any parts store , just make sure your cam-drive gears are the same type or swap out the one on the distributor that you have.

 

Sorry if I sound dumb here, but what exactly am I looking for in a distributor?

I just glanced over summitracing.com and I see things like electronic vs mechanical vs vacuum advance and a bunch of words I'm not quite sure I understand. I supposed electronic advance would be the choice, since thats what you said (If I assumed correctly that thats what you mean)

But what do I need to know about cam gears? Are they going to be vastly different?

Thanks a bunch, I'm totally lost on all of this.

 

I got a Ford Duraspark from a salvage yard and had a shop do a "custom" rebuild of it specific for my application. The duraspark has centrifugal and vacuum advance. You need to use it in conjunction with an electronic ignition box (in my case MSD). I also stepped up to a MSD Blaster coil which replaced the stock unit in the stock location (same shape). You never have to mess with points again and my timing is always spot on. Even if this doesn't solve your problem it is a good enhancement to your ignition system. This is going to cost you a good $300-$400 I'd guess or more depending on what the distributor rebuild costs. I saw some place online charging $270 just for the custom distributor rebuild!!

 

thats a little of a terrifying number. I just plain haven't got the cash. I'm paying my own tuition next year, and saving up to move out of my house. I guess I'll have to live with a 90mph cap

such is life

 

Just get a regular Ford Duraspark distributor from a parts store (Advance Auto, $50-55) before you start throwing big bucks into a problem that your not sure about how to fix. John

 

That's not nearly as bad, but I still probably wont be doing it right away.

I googled duraspark upgrades just to see, and I also found this which I thought was interesting. Its a pretty budget minded upgrade to the entire ignition system
http://www.bronco.com/cms/node/25

I got a bunch of help from the guys over at mustangii.net

I haven't yet tested the top speed again, but with their help, I identified a vacuum leak, got the secondaries to work again, re-tuned the carb and retimed the car (with some great advice on what not to do)

In short I have learned a TON about tuning and carbs especially thanks to those guys.

The car now idles at 800rpm, starts faster, runs better (even in the cold!!! the cold!!!!!!) and I even think it got faster. I've still got a bit more work to do on the car (gonna replace plug wires, air filter, few other odds and ends)

heres the thread if anyone else is interested
http://mustangii.net/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9471

 

The horrible spot of striping that was peeling off has been pissing me off for a long time. I decided to Burningman my hood

 

Very nice Arin. Looks pretty cool blacked out. Now to paint the rest of the car...

 

Hardy har har

 

 

Actually in other news, I AM thinking of finishing off the car in flat black, with a few twists. Stay tuned

 

Im not a big fan of the cobra II but ill like to see it when its done
Go with a jet black always a nice touch

 

It'll probably be flat or semi gloss. I've got a few other surprises planned for this car to really wake it up

 

sweet ill be paying attenion to this diary lol love that movie super troopers i am all that is man

 

Got some updates for you guys

Started sanding down part of the car. I'm hoping to just scuff the old paint up enough so that the new paint will stick pretty well. I'm using this semi flat black anti rust stuff that looks pretty good when applied. Take a look at Peter's (cntchds) 1994 Mustang GT thread and look at the new pics of the spoiler to see how the finish is.

Anyhow, heres the body as it is now, bumpers and lights off, and mostly sanded. The left side is almost entirely done, the right still needs the rear 1/4 and door sanded.






The bumpers i gigantically heavy btw. The metal bumper also needs to removed just to get the urethane off, otherwise id have just taken the light parts off



And in case anyone was curious, here is how that god dang tow hitch is attached. Please note the numerous welds....


I'll be smoothing out and doing all the bodywork I can this week. I really hope I can get this to come out nice