Gotta love the mild winter so far, been able to get mine out for 3 days this week

 

Your car looks sweet as ever, Gary.-----Bill

 

Jaywoo, now that you lowered it check the your rear LCA's

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater

mine were not level after lowered springs. New LCAs & Reloc brackets fixed it.
rear end feels even more planted and brake dive dramatically reduced like 99%

 

Hmmm, LCA and relocation brackets may be in my very near future

 

I had the MGW installed today.

Initial impressions:

1. I can tell that this shifter is and will be much better than stock.
2. I'm sure that as others have testified that there is a "break-in" period. It's real notch, but I can tell that
the 2-3 is already totally different.
3. The Stock unit was really broken-in and smooth after 4800 miles. However, under high loads, it was
completely unpredictable, which is why I upgraded to the MGW.
4. Noise level? Way more noise in the cabin. Sounds like I can hear the gears in the Tranny???
5. Noise fix should be the Rear Bracket that George is coming out with soon. The noise is
not unbearable, but it's definitely a distraction.
6. Power/Speed Shift? Completely different. Worth the $$$ alone for this. Really changes the car. No slop or misses.
7. 3-2 Downshift? Difficult; have to find it and shove it. Does this change after breaking in or does it need adjustment?

 

Did you use all the provided Dynamat?

 

I'll have to ask my installer. Thanks for input.

I'll guess a yes; they have installed MGW's prior to mine.

 

I would check yourself, it looks really easy to remove the center console and check under the stock sound deadening.

 

The other thing is making sure the MGW dust boot is completely sealed around the body opening and also 100% around the lower shift body. Your thumbs get a real workout stretching it to fit, and it's not easy. I had to work it 3 times to get the section closest to the dash snug, and if there is even a small gap, the sound of gears will come right through the opening.

For the first 1k miles while it's breaking in, let the car warm up a good 3-4 mins, and then before you drive off, row through the shift pattern a few times. This will reduce the new notchiness under load.

 

Thanks for the kind words Bill!!!

 

Ace72Ace,

Thanks for advice.

I added points 6 and 7 tonight after further driving.
Check out my ??? on 3-2 Downshift. Thanks again.

Steve

 

7. 3-2 Downshift? Difficult; have to find it and shove it. Does this change after breaking in or does it need adjustment?

This will change on break in. When sitting in the car on warm up, or waiting at a light in neutral I would regularly slap the shifter from side to side to loosen up those return springs. Yeah, they are overly stiff when brand new, but after the springs loosen up, it's fine.

Part of the experience with the MGW is also learning a new shift technique that requires more effort, and a different grip. Here's a vid rowing the gears (yes I know the **** pattern isn't straight, will fix that later).

 

Ace,

Thanks so much for video and feedback.

Steve

 

I want this!!! thanks for posting.

 

Thanks Steve and Rich for the feedback on the MGW. My OEM shifter obviously sucks and has a nasty crunch feel going into first and second when it's cold. I've been debating taking it to the dealer and making them tell me what the problem is. I'm sure they would claim that they were "unable to replicate the problem" anyway.

I'd really like to keep the car stock, but this is something that needs to be dealt with to increase my enjoyment of the car.

 

Though I will be getting an MGW, hopefully for Christmas fingers crossed, I find that if you baby it into gears while cold there is little if any "crunch" that comes with shifting, The trans just needs a little time to warm up before hard shifting, IMO.

 

Hate Xmas shopping but Miss Scarlett made it all better today! She got looks everywhere she went!

 

The parts........



After install...........





Here's the parts;


1 each - Peterson Fluid Systems 08-0400 Breather Can with -12 AN Ports - $90.00 on Amazon ($130 -140 everywhere else)


10 feet - Gates LOL Plus 12LOLB 3/4 inch


2 each - Earls's 700113ERL - 3/4 ID Super Stock Hose Ends


2 each - JEGS 100205 - Flare Union Male Threads -12 AN to -12 AN Blue


2 each - Spectre 3262 Hose End Clamp (5/8 Hose)


2 each - Socket Hd Cap Screws 1/4 inch with washers


1 box - 02253 - Bypass Cap Assortmnet (Auto Zone)


Tools

Drill, nutsert gun, wrenchs, screwdrivers


Position the Breather can on the fire wall, mark the holes.


Drill the holes.


Insert a couple of 1/4 inch nutserts


Mount the breather can put the hoses on from can to crankcase vents, cut hose to fit.


Remove the crackcase vents, remove the vent guts.


Finish installing the hoses.


Cap off intake manifold ports.


Go to fridge get beer, open and enjoy.

 

That's the best, is that a kit you put together yourself or did you get that from FRPP?

 

I finally got my car back after having it at the body shop for a few weeks and got my new hood and hood pins installed.

Without the pins.