Ecostang

Well I got the new speed sensor and plugged it in, speedo still shows 60mph as it did before. We were really hoping it dropped to 0mph

LEXiiON

I think we need to check the wiring. It showed 60 before we wired the OSS sensor up, so I guess we will look straight at the wires at the PCM connector. Something is messed up here.

LEXiiON

Ecostang

Another mustang running a 3.5 ecoboost! I beat him by just a few weeks...

Ecostang

GatorV6

That is awesome! Do you have any info about this guy? I would love to pick his brain a bit about getting it going with the control pack.

Great news on my project though! I think I just got a great deal on a '14 motor with 34k miles on it for my project! After shipping it was only 2700 and it comes with literally everything, even the AC compressor and alternator that I don't need. I was expecting to spend closer to 3500 (which is what most of the '13+ engines seem to be priced at) so I'm really happy with the deal if it all works out. It's supposed to get here Friday! I think I'll have to go ahead and start a build thread when it gets here

Ecostang

I've been chatting with him on his YouTube page, you might try that.

What a steal! I paid $500 more for mine and I got a good deal . Amazing you can buy a motor with TT with only 34k miles for less than $3k. Times are changing

Oh and link your build thread here when you get it started, I'll be subscribing!

GatorV6

Thanks man, will do!

walt460

Doing some wiring harnesses for a 2015 F150 Ecoboost with 6R80 into a 1966 F100 and I have noticed that the 2015 PCM pin-out is completely different than 2011-2014. Not sure how to contact HP Tuners (no phone number) but I would sure like to know if they can remove PATS from the 2015 F150 Ecoboost PCM. (Or I might have to keep the PATS system in the wiring.)

LEXiiON

Contact ZeroAviation here in the forum.

LEXiiON

davenport3500@googlemail.

Hey,
What fitting size did you use for the fuel rail i dicked my little clip that holds the rail. Now this is a swap that im considering although turboing a 3.7 seems easier.

GatorV6

As somebody who has done a turbo 3.7 and is now doing this swap I'll tell you it is much easier to turbo the 3.7. Don't do this swap on your daily driver, it will take months unless you work on it a lot and very quickly. A turbo on the other hand can be done in a weekend easily and will cost you less. A complete kit for the 3.7 will cost around 3-6 grand, but you can go more expensive if you start ticking option boxes. The control pack and ecoboost motor alone will cost you around 5 grand or a bit more and there's a lot more you will need. This swap is more for the uniqueness in my opinion. Arguments can be made either way for which is the better performance option but it's definitely much harder to do the swap. The initial investment is greater, and the long term financials of it (assuming you are trying to do a 600+whp build and not just a badass daily) appear to be similar if maybe a bit more expensive. If what you're looking for is a badass daily, I would suggest a procharger. If that doesn't float your boat, bolt on turbo kit, low boost, and a quality tune.

Ecostang

It's a 3/8" quick connect fuel line if that's what you were asking.

Ecostang

Frustrating day....

I started this morning changing the fuel pumps from dual 2013/14 gt500 to single 2014 GT. Like I mentioned before this was because the gt500 pumps are electronically regulated for pressure and the ecoboost fuel system is mechanically regulated, just like the 2014 GT. I tried to take this pump out in the past and could get the ring through the hole in the body. I assumed that the hole in the body must have gotten bigger between 2010 and 2014 so I ordered a 2014 GT pump cover and planned to cut a larger hole in the body and use the new cover. Well the new cover arrived and it's the same cover as my old one, so that was a waste of money. I had to cut a couple notches in the floor to get the fuel pump ring out, I'm still uncertain how this was supposed to work from the factory.

I also ordered a fuel pump plug and had it 2 day shipped so I would have it for this weekend, cost me $55 total....turns out the used pump came with a plug so that was a waste of money.

Moving on I swapped out the pumps and turns out the fuel supply line is a different size. The 2010 v6 and the 2014 gt500 have the same size fuel supply line connection but for whatever reason the 2014 GT pump has a smaller connection on the pump. Autozone had the right connector but not in a 90, had to rig it up for a test today using that fitting and some home depot brass fitting to temporarily make it work, spent $50 on that. I'll still need to order the right part and replace all that later. Waste of time and money.

Now to the worst part, car cranks but doesn't run. I hadn't mentioned this but it started not running a week ago with the gt500 pumps. We decided to check the plugs and they were black and wet with fuel, we thought they may have been fouled due to too much fuel on startup from the gt500 pumps. So I went back to auto parts store and spent another $60 on plugs and changed those out. Car still doesn't run for more than a few seconds at a time, and only while the starter is engaged, as soon as you let off the car dies.

Lexiion came over and data logged the starting and brief running of the engine. Turns out we are losing fuel pressure on the high pressure side of the fuel system. We tried various experiments to prove the low pressure side is running properly, plus we see that in the data logs, and it is running properly. Although I will say something seems odd with the priming of the pump when you turn the key on, it doesn't prime every time you turn the key on. To see if this was the problem we hooked the low pressure pump directly to the battery and tried to start the car, this didn't work.

We thought the fuel lines could be a problem but we unhooked from the high pressure pump and it shot gas out 4' so that's not the problem.

We thought maybe the high pressure pump might be clogged so I removed it from the car to inspect it, it's clean. I happen to have an extra high pressure pump at work that I'm going to swap out tomorrow to see if that's possibly the problem.

The data logs show the low pressure side maintaining 55 psi but the high pressure side starts around 1500 psi and then drops to 0 psi and the car dies. Very confusing since the car ran in the past.

What a frustrating day.

Ecostang

I bought some weld wheels, 18" skinnies for up front and some 17 x 10.5" for the back for the race in June. I bought the set off a 2013 gt500 with 5 passes on them for a good price. Comes with drag radials that I'll use to practice with, then switch to slicks before the race.

I need to hurry up and get this car running, I have lots to do with only 90 days to do it!

Here's what the wheels look like.

DJ2014

Good luck to you. Keep at it. From what I've read, there's nothing that you and Lexiion can't do.

Ecostang

Thanks, we will definitely stay at it but its baffling us at this time.

Ecostang

I changed the HPFP today and basically acts the same. It will run and sound normal as long as you have the starter engaged, as soon as you let the key go it dies.

I did figure out the fuel pump priming is working properly. It has a delay that starts after the key is turned off and won't prime till it's off for 3 seconds, then turned back on. This is different than my truck which is 1 year newer than the engine I used, it primes every time you turn the key off and back on, no delay. That was confusing us too but seems ok now.

All I can guess is that the PCM isn't commanding the HPFP to run once the engine is started. Maybe it's got commands for fuel while the starter is engaged and different commands when the starter is disengaged. That would explain why the car won't run after the starter is disengaged except to burn off the fuel its got left. I'm just guessing.....

I'll post a video shortly, we are open to any suggestions!

Ecostang

Here it is, I also should mention it smokes like crazy on startup. White smoke and it smells like fuel, some smoke even comes out of the tailpipes for a few minutes after the motor dies.

I'm really hoping this isn't damaging cats.

Slowb00st

Sounds like an injector is stuck opened.

Isnt the hpfp supposed to be run by the cam? So always on with the engine on.

Could have been damaged from to high of a base pressure from the gt500 fuel pumps running at full blast. If the hpfp's operation is linear at 120-150psi base pressure you could have been running double the fuel pressure or from 1500 psi normal to 3000 psi.

Edit: I see they are electronically controlling the hpfp piston.

Ecostang

I don't think it's a stuck injector. The issue is the high pressure fuel rail drops to 0 psi as soon as your let off the key according to the data logs. For whatever reason the PCM is not commanding the HPFP after the car starts.

The HPFP is powered by the cam but I believe it's pressure is electronically controlled by the PCM. There is an electrical connection to the pump from the wiring harness.

EDIT: from full-race website
Mechanical, cam-driven high pressure direct injection fuel pump delivers fuel pressures up to 2150 PSI, injecting fuel at any point in the combustion cycle.Depending on the needs of the engine, an electronically operated piston on the pump can reduce rail pressure down to 200 psi.