Ronin38

Ah, got it. Thanks!

copracer288

**Sigh**.....Another mod to save up for.....

Ok, the Torsen is better than the Trac-Lock LSD but not ideal.

So what do I want??

jsnyng

I'm guessing Sam's answer is going to be this --> Eaton http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=186&ModelID=5

sam strano

That's one option which is similar to a T-Lok, but has a much better spring setup and carbon clutches to start with. Truetrac is another. Rebuilding the stock diff with carbon clutches is another. Torsen T2R is another (but I pretty much quit selling those as they are hard to get and don't last like they used too). The lesser Torsens just don't have as much bias ratio as we'd really want (Truetrac is in the same area as a Boss Torsen).

FastRedPonyCar

I had a 28 spline Auburn pro in the rear of my 97 GT. Worlds better than the stock unit but i don't know how well it would be suited for the track.

copracer288

So would the Eaton unit be the best choice for a DD/Drag/AutoX/RR car?

sam strano

The thing with Auburn is the best unit, the Racer's, comes only in 28 spline--not 31.

sam strano

Until I can test two units slated to be done (but not yet done), then I'd have to say it's between the Eaton and the Truetrac (also an Eaton product).

Ivan 5.0

Can we sticky this thread mods?

The Sheriff

I'm not a track day guy or autocrosser, just a red light dash kind of guy & I was sold on the 3.73 gears because of the performance numbers I've been seeing in Motor Trend, Car & Driver and Road & Track. All of their 0-60 numbers have been between 4.3 to 4.6 seconds & were achieved with 3.73 gears. The only performance numbers that I've read with the 3.55 gears was in Consumer Reports & they show a 0-60 time of 5.1 seconds, however they were using 87 octane in the car at the time, so it was only producing a reported 402 hp. So my question is how much slower are the 3.55 gears than the 3.73 gears 0-60 mph?

sam strano

If you run the numbers, a 3.73 car can't make 60 in 2nd gear but the other can. And they test what they are given... Also test methods vary, surfaces vary, and if CR wasn't in a Brembo car the tires aren't as sticky either and of course if they were on 87 they were down on power and torque too.

There are a ton of variables and it's my opinion that 3.73's aren't really any quicker 0-60 on a street car on street tires.... and force an unshift to 5th in the 1/4 mile (which if you watch the video is when the M3 pulled back a bit).

JAJ

As a road-course guy, I spend most of my track time in 3rd gear, with the occasional drop into 2nd and the occasional bump to 4th, maybe 5th on a long straight. The 3.73 is a reasonable choice for that duty cycle.

CO_VaporGT_09

Hey Sam, how do you know when you need to upgrade the differential on the track? Is it just a matter or wheelspin?

sam strano

Stock differentials are pretty weak, they are one of the first upgrades I make to a car that is seeing track or autox duty.

CO_VaporGT_09

Hmmmm....

I might be looking into this at some point.

Exactly what do you mean by weak, though, like they burn up then start slipping, allowing too much wheelspin? What's a typical shop cost to get one of these installed (I think it's beyond my meager skills).

Thanks Sam

sam strano

Exactly, they are not prone to breaking... just wearing out quickly and causing handling issues. The car will not only get out of corners as fast, but will also become more power on loose.

Labor I can't tell you, every shop wants to do it differently. Take me about 3 or 4 hours not killing myself for a swap (no gear change).

jcodestang

Anyone here with the Steeda Sport springs have any issues with ground clearance. I would love to improve the suspension on my car but my car is going to be an 80% street car and the roads around her suck.

Any bottoming out on speed bumps or potholes with the lowering springs?
If there are issues, are there any performance springs that do not lower the car that much that are better than the Steeda's?

Would my car benefit from just changing the shocks and struts and leave the stock Brembo springs?

THanks!

JCC07

I had the Steeda Ultralites, which lower the car as much, if not more than, the Steeda Sports. I didn't really have any ground clearance issues, unless there was a really, really high speedbump, or a high parking berm. At the same time, I wasn't that impressed with the Ultralites. I'm more of the belief that unless you're racing professionally, most of these aftermarket parts are not that great in comparison to what Ford already puts on these cars, and even then, you're going to create problems which will cost even more money to fix. Just my two cents.

sam strano

JCC07 I do feel you are in minority there. Parts work in combination and sometimes there are variables that certain things work better for. Soft ride, stock shocks and springs are the softest. But as stock shocks age they lack control and tend to ride impacts more and more poorly. If you want a stock type replacement damper then you can go back to stock...most want to upgrade.

And I make this point a lot. Everyone has a opinion, everyone... and they are never exactly the same. It's what makes the world go 'round. However, when you find a great majority of folks liking something and a few that don't with details about why they feel that way, there's a good bet that the majority opinion will apply to more people. And frankly your in the minority on this one. That's not making you wrong, not at all.. just of a different opinion. And for what it's worth, your list of parts has a lot of FRPP stuff on it. FRPP relabels stuff all the time. On your list, you don't have much that is like that, but just something to bear in mind when you say that ford parts are better in general.

white__stallion

Subd'.... Sam...I'm learning a ton from this thread...I'll be looking to purchase parts from your store for my suspension upgrades. (and recommend you to others in the Mustang and Camaro world) I like many others have a street car that is well...strictly street for daily driving and the occasional back road romp. 2011 Mustang GT non-brembo 3.73. Might auto x road race or drag the car to get some 'data' for my own satisfaction but nothing heavy.

Looks like the Steeda sports are the way to go for street comfort. I appreciate your view on progressive vs. linear springs. I would've gone after the progressive springs thinking I am getting ride comfort and handling improvement when it sounds like the ride is worse on the street vs the linear. Mainly due to the spring rate...

In any case sounds like I want/need the following to have a 'complete kit'

1.0 springs
2.0 shocks/struts (Koni Yellow or ST)
3.0 camber bolts (Do I need Trailing arm/pro alignment kit?)
4.0 adjustable pan hard bar.
5.0 Upper Strut Mounts
6.0 Upper Strut Mount bolts

Anything else needs to be adjusted to compensate for the 1 to 1.5 inch drop on the suspension?

Looks like sway bars would be considered if I wanted to reduce body roll further? Would it be safe that adding bigger front and rear sway bars could make the ride a little too stiff for the street? Also I don't know that a rear bar would be that great for the street anyway as I don't want to end up backwards or spinning out with some 'spiritied' driving.

If this is something that requires a phone conversation that's cool too as I'm unsure of the adjustable yellow koni vs non adjustable. I've read the 'better to have options' piece, and 'rather set it up for what I am doing with the car or roads I am driving on'...however there is something to be said for getting balance in the valving by somebody in R&D from the factory. I presume the Koni line matches the steeda sport and the stock springs as necessary.

What's your take on the folks at 'other' shops encouraging GT500 take off shocks/struts with Steeda Sport springs and GT500 sway bars? Seems like the shocks/struts would be valved for a little heavier car, with more weight on the nose. Or would something like that be solid for a street car and comfortable?