Steering wheel audio mods 2010 Wheel on 2005-2009
3/21/15, 11:43 AM
#301
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Vgm I have received the wires yesterday but I had no time to install it yet cause I been working late shifts first break I get I ll do it.Honestly I want to thank you again!!!Hopefully everything will be ok If I have any problems I will pm you.Thank again
3/24/15, 02:53 PM
#302
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Are these the correct colours and numbers that should go into the J1 connector?Shaker500
#16 -- blue
#17 -- yellow
#18 -- green
#19 -- purple
Also do I need to remove the whole radio in order to get to the connectors behind or I will be able to see them once I remove the wheel?
#16 -- blue
#17 -- yellow
#18 -- green
#19 -- purple
Also do I need to remove the whole radio in order to get to the connectors behind or I will be able to see them once I remove the wheel?
4/4/15, 02:24 PM
#303
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VGM I have finally put the new steering wheel. But I connected the old ground and the new ground on the same screw,now I don't have cruise control do you think this is why the cruise control is not working?
4/4/15, 05:56 PM
#304
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I'll answer for VGM. The answer is quite possibly. We had another person do this and his did not work. You have the single pin for the horn on the plate and the screw mount for the other ground.
4/4/15, 06:28 PM
#305
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I have the red single pin for the horn and 2 ground wires eyelids (One from the old harness colour Green ; and another one from the new harness colour Black).
Could there be any other reason why the cruise control ain't working??
Also I just crimped the wires from the old harness to the new one, all the other ones I soldered.
Could there be any other reason why the cruise control ain't working??
Also I just crimped the wires from the old harness to the new one, all the other ones I soldered.
4/5/15, 03:09 AM
#306
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The red wire grounding is your reason for no cruise control is all I can figure.
Why do you have a red wire to the ground? That is the cruise control power and right side switch power lead. Your black goes to the horn and the green to the screw mount (or vise versa--it depends on which has the round eye). The one with the push on terminal goes to the horn plate and the other with the hole, to the base with the phillips screw.
Why do you have a red wire to the ground? That is the cruise control power and right side switch power lead. Your black goes to the horn and the green to the screw mount (or vise versa--it depends on which has the round eye). The one with the push on terminal goes to the horn plate and the other with the hole, to the base with the phillips screw.
4/5/15, 07:01 AM
#307
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The red wire goes to the horn plate and the green and black both have the eyelid hole that go in the hole with the phillips screw.Sorry if you misunderstood.I have to wires that have the eyelid hole(black and green ) and I don't know if I should cut one of them or what.Thanks
4/5/15, 01:48 PM
#308
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The red wire goes to the horn plate and the green and black both have the eyelid hole that go in the hole with the phillips screw.Sorry if you misunderstood.I have to wires that have the eyelid hole(black and green ) and I don't know if I should cut one of them or what.Thanks
4/9/15, 11:47 AM
#310
Tms Mustang Member ------ The Customizer!
Crap. Sorry, I havent been here in a while. Yes show us a picture. We are here to help.
4/9/15, 02:54 PM
#312
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My other head arrived today and surprisingly it had a DVD function turned on. It must of come out of a very high end Edge. Anyways, I put this into my 06 Fusion SEL and it worked perfectly. I did find that the DVD doesn't show on the main screen but does on a secondary screen. Must be to keep the driver from watching. Interesting idea though.
I added a SYNC style mirror for the speaker and it works great. This is what I am going to put into my Mustang also. I found a SYNC mirror from a MKS and am going to use it with back up camera. It will complete the interior.
The SYNC mirror is much clearer than the add on microphone and is real easy to attach to the radio J1 plug. I hope others, who decide to go with SYNC look into finding the factory style mirror and going that way. You can, if you don't want to add wires etc, just cut the microphone off the SYNC kit mic, and run those wires to the mirror. It works the same function, but uses the SYNC box for power instead of the mirror head.
Here are some pics of the autodim mirror with SYNC microphone. This is the one I put in the Mustang originally. This makes the system work great. The newer 16 pin mirror will have the back up camera, temp, compass, and autodim features as well as the SYNC microphone. This set up can be used with about any head that uses an external microphone also.
I added a SYNC style mirror for the speaker and it works great. This is what I am going to put into my Mustang also. I found a SYNC mirror from a MKS and am going to use it with back up camera. It will complete the interior.
The SYNC mirror is much clearer than the add on microphone and is real easy to attach to the radio J1 plug. I hope others, who decide to go with SYNC look into finding the factory style mirror and going that way. You can, if you don't want to add wires etc, just cut the microphone off the SYNC kit mic, and run those wires to the mirror. It works the same function, but uses the SYNC box for power instead of the mirror head.
Here are some pics of the autodim mirror with SYNC microphone. This is the one I put in the Mustang originally. This makes the system work great. The newer 16 pin mirror will have the back up camera, temp, compass, and autodim features as well as the SYNC microphone. This set up can be used with about any head that uses an external microphone also.
4/9/15, 05:42 PM
#313
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http://i59.tinypic.com/df94qw.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/14wehxc.jpg
http://i59.tinypic.com/4jqfyv.jpg
I uploaded 3 pictures,hopefully someone will be able to shed some light.thanks
http://i62.tinypic.com/14wehxc.jpg
http://i59.tinypic.com/4jqfyv.jpg
I uploaded 3 pictures,hopefully someone will be able to shed some light.thanks
4/9/15, 09:41 PM
#314
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On picture 1 I see a major problem. You ran your wires under the horn plate. That is a no no. You will lose use of the horn this way. You take the wires and run then at the bottom behind the plate , not out the top. Do you understand what I'm describing? The wires need to be run the opposite way of the way you have them lying right now. I can't see anything much in the other photos. Is the bottom WPT connector made identical to the upper one? It seems that you may have them in different slots. Do the controls do ANYTHING at all, even if it is wrong for what it is suppose to do.
4/10/15, 03:07 PM
#315
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I still got the horn working tho.Once its gets warmer I will remove the harness and shorten it because its too long.Yesterday I grounded only the black wire and its still not working but tmrw I wanna remove the airbag and take out the black wire and connect the green wire instead maybe it will work this way.I got to give it a try.Controls don't do anything yet because I haven't reflashed my ACM yet.
4/10/15, 03:18 PM
#316
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Wild T. Have you checked the wiring on the other end going to the radio for power to each wire you added? If not, then you should do this to make sure that things are correct to your head. What number head did you use to do this mod? Do you know what it cameout of? If so, did that vehicle have steering wheel controls? If so, you may not have to have to do a reflash.
I say this because yesterday my new (used actually) head for my Fusion came in. It was a 7F4T AG unit out of an Edge. It had everything turned on. It had DVD availability. Why I am saying this is because the Fusion had factory steering wheel controls for a regular CD6 head. Basic in most ways. The new navigation head plugged right in and got immediate signal. Everything worked, including the steering wheel controls. I was sure I was going to have to give up the automatic air conditioning controls, but low and behold it all worked perfectly. No changes needed. That is why I was saying, you need to know what they come out of and if they are open to SWC's. You can check your head by turning it on and holding the 3 & 6 buttons. You will get a screen that you can see what is on your head, and then you can go thru the next and so forth. If your SWC is on, you won't need to have your ACM reflashed. Post some pics of the screens so we can see what you have etc.
I say this because yesterday my new (used actually) head for my Fusion came in. It was a 7F4T AG unit out of an Edge. It had everything turned on. It had DVD availability. Why I am saying this is because the Fusion had factory steering wheel controls for a regular CD6 head. Basic in most ways. The new navigation head plugged right in and got immediate signal. Everything worked, including the steering wheel controls. I was sure I was going to have to give up the automatic air conditioning controls, but low and behold it all worked perfectly. No changes needed. That is why I was saying, you need to know what they come out of and if they are open to SWC's. You can check your head by turning it on and holding the 3 & 6 buttons. You will get a screen that you can see what is on your head, and then you can go thru the next and so forth. If your SWC is on, you won't need to have your ACM reflashed. Post some pics of the screens so we can see what you have etc.
Last edited by akdoggie; 4/11/15 at 04:16 PM.
4/11/15, 09:11 AM
#317
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Do you think that I need to re-pin my cruise control bc I had a 2013 steering wheel and I switched the D-Pad according to your notes.
Here is how to re-pin the cruise control.
1.First you need to get the correct cruise control. Ford p/n AR3Z-9C888-BA $33.94
2.Take apart the wheel to the point that you can get to the connector to the cruise control
3.Now to take the wires out of the connector...
First open the flap on both side of the connector. I just stuck a push pin in the side of connector, under the flap, and pried it open. The first time it might seem like you are breaking it, but you probably won't break it and it definitely isn't used from anything beside dressing up the connector.
4.Both sides have a flap, so this needs to be repeated from the other side of the connector.
5.Next you are going to pull the wires out.
Take the push pin and press on the silver pin (you are pressing on a little release tab) in the front of the connector while gently tugging on the wire that it corresponds to.
6.The wire will move maybe a millimeter back before you have to push on the silver pin again and tug on the wire which will allow it to completely come out of the connector.
7.Repeat this step for all of the wires in the cruise control connector.
8.Now it is time to put them into the correct positions for the '11/12 cruise control module.
9.Simply press the pin into the correct position of the connector with the little tab that you pushed in to remove it facing towards the outside of the connector (the same way that it came out).
10.On the bottom of the connector in the above picture the wires go Red, Brown, Black.
Credits go to executive hydra for this guide.
Here is how to re-pin the cruise control.
1.First you need to get the correct cruise control. Ford p/n AR3Z-9C888-BA $33.94
2.Take apart the wheel to the point that you can get to the connector to the cruise control
3.Now to take the wires out of the connector...
First open the flap on both side of the connector. I just stuck a push pin in the side of connector, under the flap, and pried it open. The first time it might seem like you are breaking it, but you probably won't break it and it definitely isn't used from anything beside dressing up the connector.
4.Both sides have a flap, so this needs to be repeated from the other side of the connector.
5.Next you are going to pull the wires out.
Take the push pin and press on the silver pin (you are pressing on a little release tab) in the front of the connector while gently tugging on the wire that it corresponds to.
6.The wire will move maybe a millimeter back before you have to push on the silver pin again and tug on the wire which will allow it to completely come out of the connector.
7.Repeat this step for all of the wires in the cruise control connector.
8.Now it is time to put them into the correct positions for the '11/12 cruise control module.
9.Simply press the pin into the correct position of the connector with the little tab that you pushed in to remove it facing towards the outside of the connector (the same way that it came out).
10.On the bottom of the connector in the above picture the wires go Red, Brown, Black.
Credits go to executive hydra for this guide.
4/11/15, 09:13 AM
#318
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I haven't changed my head Is a regular shaker 500 with non-nav and no sync and no swc.
I can't figure why the CC won't work today I changed the ground wire to green and still nothing offff
I can't figure why the CC won't work today I changed the ground wire to green and still nothing offff
4/13/15, 10:57 AM
#320
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I have to tell you I tried re-pin it and It worked but I first checked the fuse everything was ok.I have to say after I repined it worked immediately.Thanks for all the help AK,VGM and all others!!!