akdoggie

I had another email today, and never considered his question before. He asked what version software was I using. He said his head was out of an 06, and wanted to know if the SYNC kit system would work. I don't remember if I wrote about it or not in the SYNC install, but you must run a 4.00 version or higher, for SYNC to work with your navigation head. Mine is 4.03 so I was good from the start.

It's funny, but when you decide to make one of these write ups up, just how much you can forget to write down. It is always the little things that get overlooked, or things that you don't have to modify yourself, and others may need to. Being an old auto partsman, I'm very careful to get the right part the first time (if possible when modding something that doesn't like to be). Being in Alaska, we need to get the part right the first time, or the freight will kill us shipping parts back and forth.

In his case, he had version 3.05 and SYNC will not work with that head. I hope that this little piece of info, will help anyone out there trying this mod. You need a JOB 2 head, or a late enough Job 1 (carrying the 4.00 +) to make things work right. Best advise I can give is make sure you have a 4.00 or better version of installed software in the head you are going to install. If you have less than 4.00, it will not work. You will need a newer head. (Any before 8---, will not have SYNC/Navigation capabilities. Some 8's have less than 4.00 so be careful when you buy a used radio head. The versions can NOT be upgraded.

jim010

I am going to jump into the fray here.

Picked up a nav from a 2010 F350 and will be looking to install it into my 05. I already have a sync module from a 2010 Mustang. Also am in the midst of trying the LCD cluster from a 2013 Mustang.

This will take me a while as I am quite busy through this summer, but I am hoping to have this figured out and installed over the next couple of months.

I will be going over this thread carefully to get the Sync module working.

VGMStudios

I thought you said youd have to change the whole dash to fit the 2010+ Nav units!??
This is why I went with a 2008 version...originally I wanted the 2010 one cause its a lot nicer.

jim010

I am going with a unit out of a 2010 F350. It isn't the same unit as the one in the 2010 and up Mustangs. This one looks like the normal Mustang nav unit for the 07 - 09 cars, but has similar functions as the newer ones. I don't think it will be plug and play, as I will need an amp. I noticed a thread on here where someone else tried putting that unit in. I will have to give it a read.

akdoggie

That is funny Jim. Friedman is the guy who was trying to go ahead and use the newer style head in his S197. He was having problems with wiring and the amp of course. For some reason I was thinking it VGM, but he did SYNC> I'll keep everything in focus, later. lol

There is a complete head with wiring out there, for sale, that is a direct bold into the F350 that I believe you are describing? It comes with the additional wiring etc.

If you look at the wiring on an 11 Mustang and up and ours, there is very little difference between them. Hmmm. Back to the schematics to verify what VGM and others have said about the problems of this install.

VGMStudios

The things I can think of as to problems were, Unit needed reprogramming. Needed the correct SWC. The VSS wasnt working till I wired it to the front of the car.

Other than that it was pretty straight forward. SYNC was a cinch to install, AKs instructions helped.

Oh and figuring out what wires to use. The pin 16/17 JT1 and 4/5 JT3 was a bit confusing. I had a hard time understand that part for some reason.

Thats all I can think of ATM.

akdoggie

Yes I'm sure that the J3 4/5 messed you up. I forgot to change that in the write up and once it is pdf form, it's not easy to change with my computer's programs. Anyways, that is for the Shaker heads only. Navigation heads use the J1 only, and uses 16, 17, 18 and 19. Shaker's use both plugs for some internal programming.

I am doing a rewrite, for a sticky, that starts with the steering wheel, goes to the clock spring wiring, wiring to the ACM, SYNC install, and the whole thing. I'm going to have to double proofread it this time for errors. One problem I'm running into is that it is so **** long. I'm at 9 pages right now (with lots of pictures this time), and I've only gotten to the ACM wiring plugs. It will make it easier for the next guy, thanks to everyone who added items and helped along the way. Recognition is added, of course. I appreciated the help from everyone, and was glad that I could help some out with the upgrade.

At the speed I get things accomplished, then, Slow is me. lol.

VGMStudios

AK if you want me to proofread it, Id be more than happy to. Maybe I can condense a few things (with your approval of course) so it isnt so long. haha.

VGMStudios

HELP!
I am having a huge problem here.
One of the LEDs werent working properly so I took out the Nav Unit to open it up and fix the LED. After struggling with it putting to back together I plug it back into the car and now there is no image on the screen. Completely black. The LEDs light up and the touch on the screen works, just no image.
I dont know what to do. I reopened it many times to check all the wiring and everything is plugging as it should be.
I am at a lost. Is the screen gone? Do I need a whole new unit?
HELP!

akdoggie

Now that is a hard way to find out that something simple, can become a nightmare. It's strange that one LED would burn out, but of course we've all seen something weird with our cars, one time or another. Sorry to hear of your problem VGM.

I'm guessing that the item (s) that you fixed originally, LED (?), must have shorted the board or maybe over heated (soldered ?) the connections and lost your circuit. I've never had more than the fascia off one, so I won't be of much help in this case. I also forgot, which head did you use? Job 1 or 2? Good luck. Bill

VGMStudios

drat thanks anyways.
I was hoping you'd know of some things I could try.
What do you mean Job 1 or Job 2?
Brad suggest for me to check the ribbon cable. So ill do that. Im also going to try and buy a whole new (used) unit and see if I can fix it..sigh.. what a waste.

akdoggie

Job 1 is with all black around the upper *****. Job 2 is the same with the chrome rings on the top. It will say "load" and have an "arrow" in white. Later yet heads have all the wording in white.

VGMStudios

The first Nav unit I bought is a Job 2. The 2nd one which I will use for parts is a Job 1 (its grey not black)

I am hoping that all I have to do is swap the bloody screen.
Having to spending extra for no reason, there is no reason why the screen had to die, is really maddening. I really hope this works.

akdoggie

Sorry VGM. When it comes to the internals, then I am at a loss. My only real contact is the wiring and making things work that weren't there in the first place.

I pulled one face off a Job 2 Shaker, and was surprised how it was put together. I was able to remove most of the metal and clips, without damaging the contents. I had no real problems with anything not working when I did get finished. It worked as well as before, and now had the Blue screen instead of the green. That's the extent of my internal knowledge. I believe that you can switch the left side **** with your chrome one, to at least get it somewhat like it was. Sorry for your bad luck. I hope it works out for you. Bill

data174

VGM
Sorry to hear that your acm has a problem. I understand fully on spending for no reason.
I have never removed the head on my acm so I can't offer any assistance.But be careful when you are handling circuit boards,a slight static discharge can damage the board. They always tell you to wear a ground strap to avoid static discharge. Good luck on your repair.
Al

akdoggie

I found this on one of the sites that do repairs and gives information on the 2005-08 heads

MAKE SURE the negative battery terminal is disconnected and remains disconnected for at least 60 minutes BEFORE you attempt to remove or re-install the face. Failure to do so can result in a short in the face and/or radio and cause your radio not to function properly. We have seen it MANY times. MAKE SURE to have the negative battery terminal disconnected for AT LEAST 60 minutes BEFORE removing OR re-installing the face.

Seems pretty basic, but it could be that this was your problem.

VGMStudios

Thanks guys I appreciate it!

Update:
Bought a new AMC yesterday. It came out of a fusion I think though the Diagnostic screens said Lincoln. Had THX come up when I installed it instead of Ford. Some interesting settings on that one. Also the face was grey and had white lights and around the vol ****. Pretty cool. Though the lights didnt turn on for some reason. Anyways...

Knowing that it works, I took it apart and swapped screens and tested it. No joy.
I tried the screen on the newer one. Works. Humm so its not the screen then.

Took both apart almost completely (Ive done it before) and swapped motherboards figuring that since the ribbon clip on the original one was damaged this SHOULD work. I was worried that if I do swap mobos that I would get all the settings of the newer one. So after about an hour or so working on it swapping them, (lots and lots of screws) installed it and BAM Worked! Had all my previous settings. Looks like that mobo was just for the screen! VGM is happy again....Now on to seeing what the hell is wrong with my PC... Another headache.
Im just glad I was able to get it working again. Now to figure out what to do with this spare. Maybe sell it as is or something. Everything works on it, just no picture.

AK. I've never unplugged the battery when installing the unit head. Never had a problem. Waiting 60min. before installing it sounds a little unproductive if you ask me. I need to test quickly and waiting 60 before would kill the time I have in the evening. But it makes a little sense about the power surge.

I really hope this is the last of it. Im not going to open or unplug it again after I install it today. Bonus thing is though. I now have 2 6p DVD disks. YAY! I also burned an 8 or 9p DVD and it works as well!

Cheers!

data174

VGM
That is great news. How many boards inside the ACM?. I'm curious of the location where the settings are stored, if not on the main board.

Al

akdoggie

VGM. That was directly from a repair center for these radios. They hold excessive amounts of energy inside them, thus the 60 minutes to let it dissipate. I called a friend today who works on them, and he said that the shops that get them in the mail don't have to worry, as they have been unplugged for some time before they work on them. He did say, that they will short out if they aren't grounded or if they are worked on right after removal. He also said that they have a lot of stored energy that takes time to release. He said his shop will not work without a static strap and not on a fresh removal. That summed it up, so no internal playing without a strap and without waiting for me. Hell, the strap is cheap on eBay and with all the computer stuff I play with, probably a good idea. lol

I'm glad you got it going. That probably came from the Lincoln top of line car, as it had THX. You did great with the repair.

If you say the screen is good, then save it. It costs about 230 or so to get a refurbished one, so someone who needs a screen would probably pay you a decent price.

VGMStudios

AK - Thanks and for the info. Wouldn't you think that is being a little over cautious? I do agree though, they do hold quite amount of power. I've been lucky so far.
Im going to install it back in the car and put my car back together...again.
I think I should get one of those wrist thingys. Its a good idea. I do work on a lot of electronics.

Hold on to it humm? I'm not sure. I do need to recover the extra $250 + tax I paid for it.

Al - Thanks!
There are 2 main boards. The bottom one is where the power is and which I am assuming is the main mobo (settings are stored). The connectors are also attached to this board. The one above that is what the screen connects to, so I am assuming it controls the screen/touch and lights. Above that is the DVD player. And the top layer is the 6 CD disk changer. Its pretty compact if you think all the things in it. Its like a 4 tier cake!
But man, unscrewing that thing, what a pain. haha!

What is interesting is when I plugged in the THX one it had some of my settings (like all my attached phones). So I was really puzzled until it hit me, those settings are stored within the SYNC box! DUH! Silly me! haha!

Wish I took pics to show you Al.

VGM