Steering wheel audio mods 2010 Wheel on 2005-2009
#281
The 10 pin connections are only used at the switches left and right not the clock spring,but I don't know what to do with the wires that I had mentioned to AK,hopefully he will shed some light.
Also I called 4dTech and he said that he doesn't deal with shaker units but only navigation. Also VGM look for those pins please.
Also I called 4dTech and he said that he doesn't deal with shaker units but only navigation. Also VGM look for those pins please.
#282
Mach 1 Member
Hi Wild Tang,
As far as I understand, you don't have to (and probably shouldn't) mess with any of the wiring for the left side switch... just plug & play. Cut the other end off (where the whole harness plugs into the car) and follow the instructions in this thread.
As far as I understand, you don't have to (and probably shouldn't) mess with any of the wiring for the left side switch... just plug & play. Cut the other end off (where the whole harness plugs into the car) and follow the instructions in this thread.
#283
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Do NOT cut the red or black wires that go to both sides. They are common power (red) and (black) ground for both sides switches. There is no reason to cut them as they just go back together in the end.
For this reference below, I'll call the 2013 the old plug and the replacement 5 pin as the new plug to keep confusion to a minimum. We need the 5 pin for our clocksprings, so that's my logic. lol
New Harness (5 pin)-- Old (2013) Plug (10 pin) for the left side switches (upper 5 pin connector for the clockspring), then solder the 10 pin wires to the 5 pin connector as shown below
5 pin to 10 pin
Gray to White
Brown to Blue
Black to Green (Ground)
Red to Red (Power)
Right side switches (using the WPT1242 fitting inside the steering wheel)
J1/ACM --- wire color inside strg wheel
#16 -- blue
#17 -- yellow
#18 -- green
#19 -- purple
Make your second WPT1242 next, wiring it exactly like the one in the steering wheel. Leave the two extra wires taped up on both WPT's, both lower and upper.
These wires from the lower WPT1242, go into the back of the J1 connector (24 pin connector ACM). Insert them into the connector, then you should have everything hooked up correctly, and ready for your head for programming. If you have access to someone's CD6 from another Ford, you could try it to see if your controls are working correctly. Most of those have the controls turned on already and make great Shaker replacements or testers. lol
This is the first that I saw, saying you were going to the Shaker head. Most people do the navigation. The only real difference is the switch on the right side of the steering wheel, otherwise the wiring is exactly the same. Hope this helps you out.
For this reference below, I'll call the 2013 the old plug and the replacement 5 pin as the new plug to keep confusion to a minimum. We need the 5 pin for our clocksprings, so that's my logic. lol
New Harness (5 pin)-- Old (2013) Plug (10 pin) for the left side switches (upper 5 pin connector for the clockspring), then solder the 10 pin wires to the 5 pin connector as shown below
5 pin to 10 pin
Gray to White
Brown to Blue
Black to Green (Ground)
Red to Red (Power)
Right side switches (using the WPT1242 fitting inside the steering wheel)
J1/ACM --- wire color inside strg wheel
#16 -- blue
#17 -- yellow
#18 -- green
#19 -- purple
Make your second WPT1242 next, wiring it exactly like the one in the steering wheel. Leave the two extra wires taped up on both WPT's, both lower and upper.
These wires from the lower WPT1242, go into the back of the J1 connector (24 pin connector ACM). Insert them into the connector, then you should have everything hooked up correctly, and ready for your head for programming. If you have access to someone's CD6 from another Ford, you could try it to see if your controls are working correctly. Most of those have the controls turned on already and make great Shaker replacements or testers. lol
This is the first that I saw, saying you were going to the Shaker head. Most people do the navigation. The only real difference is the switch on the right side of the steering wheel, otherwise the wiring is exactly the same. Hope this helps you out.
Last edited by akdoggie; 3/4/15 at 01:35 AM.
#284
AK your guide says that for shaker I got to use J1:18,19 and J3:4,5 but you just said to use all in J1 also so the wires from the cruise control the ones I don't need I should just cut them off because I want to eliminate some of the clutter around the steering wheel so I won't have any problems with rubbing or god knows what afterwards.The black and red wires from the cruise control I am not touching those,those will remain there.
Also for the positive and negative wires,how should I figure that out I'm a bit baffled.
Also for the positive and negative wires,how should I figure that out I'm a bit baffled.
#285
Tms Mustang Member ------ The Customizer!
You got it!
I think there is some confusion.. Isn't J3 plug for the Shaker 500 AK?
As for polarity correct me if I am wrong but I dont think it matters.
There is no harm in plugging it in one way to see if it works or not. You dont destroy anything. Try plugging them in one way or another and see if it works.
I think there is some confusion.. Isn't J3 plug for the Shaker 500 AK?
As for polarity correct me if I am wrong but I dont think it matters.
There is no harm in plugging it in one way to see if it works or not. You dont destroy anything. Try plugging them in one way or another and see if it works.
#286
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
You got it!
I think there is some confusion.. Isn't J3 plug for the Shaker 500 AK?
As for polarity correct me if I am wrong but I dont think it matters.
There is no harm in plugging it in one way to see if it works or not. You dont destroy anything. Try plugging them in one way or another and see if it works.
I think there is some confusion.. Isn't J3 plug for the Shaker 500 AK?
As for polarity correct me if I am wrong but I dont think it matters.
There is no harm in plugging it in one way to see if it works or not. You dont destroy anything. Try plugging them in one way or another and see if it works.
Like I posted originally, if it doesn't work one way it will the other. lol. That is why I was saying I would like to do a rewrite and have it a sticky with the correct info into about 3-4 good pages and be done. Mods????
Last edited by akdoggie; 3/11/15 at 04:54 PM.
#287
Tms Mustang Member ------ The Customizer!
Oh ok. Thanks for the clarification. I agree, a rewrite would be a good idea & have it as a sticky. I'm in to help if you need it.
WT I found the 4 wire plugs that you need and will send them out tomorrow. Ill PM you about costs.
WT I found the 4 wire plugs that you need and will send them out tomorrow. Ill PM you about costs.
#288
Tms Mustang Member ------ The Customizer!
WT. I found and sent you the wires that you needed.
Ive PMed you about payment. thanks.
If you need any more help LMK.
Ive PMed you about payment. thanks.
If you need any more help LMK.
#289
I did the 11-14 gt500 wheel swap on an 08. Looks awesome by the way. I am using a kenwood aftermarket dvd receiver that is steering wheel remote capable and a PAC-SWI. Do I just use the purple wire on right side switches or do I have to use multiple wires ?? I have cruise side wired fine , but my SWI for audio controls will power up but will not program(for now just using purple wire connected to PAC white). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Would love to have volume buttons working , not really in need of any other buttons at this time.
#290
Forgot I am also using the WPT connectors (2) one in the bottom plug inside the wheel to purple (audio switches). The other WPT from plug in bottom left clock spring to white on pac-swi. I also wired in a 100 resistor from purple on pac-swi to white on pac-swi. Thx !
#291
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
You would have to use at least 2 wires. The purple and green would be the pair. The purple is negative and the green is positive. That should give you up and down volume. How about channels? I may have that backwards but it is the same idea. Wouldn't that be the other pair? I don't know your head per se, but it seems that that would be the correct way. That is the way the original wiring is. Hope that helps you out some. Akdoggie
Last edited by akdoggie; 3/8/15 at 04:51 PM.
#293
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Wayne. When you get done, post up some pictures of the back wiring and your head installed if you would. It will help someone else down the road. That's what we are trying to do here, help the guys get their steering wheels and radio heads in tune with each other. Good luck with your install.
#294
Wayne. When you get done, post up some pictures of the back wiring and your head installed if you would. It will help someone else down the road. That's what we are trying to do here, help the guys get their steering wheels and radio heads in tune with each other. Good luck with your install.
Will do ! Will be a couple days before I can get out in the garage.
#295
Ok so I got the gt500 wheel installed(thanks to akdoggie and the guys of this forum)and got most of the buttons to work, 08 GT (haven't got the phone buttons to work yet). Vol.+-, track, Mode works and that's all I really wanted. The wiring on the cruise control side is posted earlier in this thread which works great(plugged into the top WPT receptacle behind horn), for the stereo side I used the purple wire (coming from the buttons)and cut it and soldered it to the outer wire on purchased WPT connector and then plugged that into the bottom WPT recepticle(under the horn). I also cut the green wire (coming from the buttons)and grounded that to the same ground screw that is used at the top of the wheel. The other WPT receptacle on the bottom left side of the clockspring gets another purchased WPT connector and I used the same outer wire as the first and connected that to my PAC-SWI (white wire) then wired PAC-SWI together and ran to the remote wire from head unit (kewood DDX). I will try and post a picture of the final wiring inside wheel.
Last edited by Wayne Chmura; 3/16/15 at 07:36 PM.
#296
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Ok so I got the gt500 wheel installed(thanks to akdoggie and the guys of this forum)and got most of the buttons to work, 08 GT (haven't got the phone buttons to work yet). Vol.+-, track, Mode works and that's all I really wanted. The wiring on the cruise control side is posted earlier in this thread which works great(plugged into the top WPT receptacle behind horn), for the stereo side I used the purple wire (coming from the buttons)and cut it and soldered it to the outer wire on purchased WPT connector and then plugged that into the bottom WPT recepticle(under the horn). I also cut the green wire (coming from the buttons)and grounded that to the same ground screw that is used at the top of the wheel. The other WPT receptacle on the bottom left side of the clockspring gets another purchased WPT connector and I used the same outer wire as the first and connected that to my PAC-SWI (white wire) then wired PAC-SWI together and ran to the remote wire from head unit (kewood DDX). I will try and post a picture of the final wiring inside wheel.
Last edited by akdoggie; 3/17/15 at 09:36 PM.
#297
Wayne.....let me say this once again. You will NOT get the radio controls to work on a Shaker 500 head without going to the dealer or an authorized audio repair center to program the swc's to work. They are NOT turned on by Ford, because the Mustang's never used them in those years (05-09). You have to use a CD6 head (same **** thing basically, just in other cars than Mustangs). They are 90% turned on for swc's. You might find one here and there that aren't swc capable from Ford. The Shaker does not function without programming. Sorry.
#298
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
#299
Yes everything is working great ! I am using a kewood DDX770 dvd head unit. Couldn't have done it without your help, these forums are the bomb !!!! Thanks again !👍👍😄😄
#300
Tms Mustang Member ------ The Customizer!
So WT did the wires arrive? We're you able to install everything okay?