Engine Start Button
#261
it was actually really easy. did it in about an hour and a half.
i tried to cut the holes just right and it lined up great until the last 1/8". then it just kicked a little crooked at the last push. i tried to straighten it but she wont budge at all. i guess im glad its snug and a little off rather than perfectly straight and loose...
im very happy with it, i dont think too many people will notice its off a little.
i tried to cut the holes just right and it lined up great until the last 1/8". then it just kicked a little crooked at the last push. i tried to straighten it but she wont budge at all. i guess im glad its snug and a little off rather than perfectly straight and loose...
im very happy with it, i dont think too many people will notice its off a little.
#265
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Got one of the Honda start switches for Christmas. It will be a little while before I do the install, but here are a couple pics of the wiring I will use.
The cable is from an external USB port from a donor computer. It fits perfectly.
You can see in the first pic that the ends of this particular cable are different - one is a 5 pin and the other is a 4 pin. Either end will work. I decided to use the 4 pin end. In the second pic you will see the 4 pin plug installed. The red, blue and white wires correspond with the first 3 pins of the switch. This works out well since only the first three pins of the Honda switch are used. The fourth wire in the pic (heavy dark insulation) is not used.
I will cut the other end of the cable off and splice the wires as required.
The cable is from an external USB port from a donor computer. It fits perfectly.
You can see in the first pic that the ends of this particular cable are different - one is a 5 pin and the other is a 4 pin. Either end will work. I decided to use the 4 pin end. In the second pic you will see the 4 pin plug installed. The red, blue and white wires correspond with the first 3 pins of the switch. This works out well since only the first three pins of the Honda switch are used. The fourth wire in the pic (heavy dark insulation) is not used.
I will cut the other end of the cable off and splice the wires as required.
#267
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Well, I disassembled the Honda switch. As you can see, only the first 3 pins are used; the 4th and 5th go to nothing.
And for anyone wondering, the tiny light bulb / socket comes out easily with a small flat blade screwdriver. You can remove the light bulb without disassembling the switch.
There is a thin rubber cover (diffuser) over the bulb. The bulb cover is removed in the second pic.
And for anyone wondering, the tiny light bulb / socket comes out easily with a small flat blade screwdriver. You can remove the light bulb without disassembling the switch.
There is a thin rubber cover (diffuser) over the bulb. The bulb cover is removed in the second pic.
#269
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Here is a shot showing the top of the switch - you can see the round cut out in the chrome switch body. That is where the light bulb it located. You can see some of the green circuit board too.
I have not installed my switch yet, but it looks like you would have to partially disassemble the dash to gain access to the panel that the switch is mounted to...
I have not installed my switch yet, but it looks like you would have to partially disassemble the dash to gain access to the panel that the switch is mounted to...
#270
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Hey everyone - back in post 255, Nate (n8rfastback) brings up a good point. He may have stumbled onto something. He menitioned that when he pushed the start button with no key, weird things would happen. Has anyone else noticed these things?
I suspect that when you push the button (with no key), you are supplying power to a circuit that would not normally see power without the key. So it is, for lack of a better term, confused. Can anything be damaged? Not sure.
Well, the way around it is to supply the power to the switch directly from the ignition rather than the hot wire at the cig. lighter. That way the start switch would only be active when the key is in the "on" position. The trick is to figure out which wire to tap into on the ignition. That should be fairly easy...
I suspect that when you push the button (with no key), you are supplying power to a circuit that would not normally see power without the key. So it is, for lack of a better term, confused. Can anything be damaged? Not sure.
Well, the way around it is to supply the power to the switch directly from the ignition rather than the hot wire at the cig. lighter. That way the start switch would only be active when the key is in the "on" position. The trick is to figure out which wire to tap into on the ignition. That should be fairly easy...
#271
excellent observation.
i wont go fixing mine (laziness)
but for future installs its a great tip.
i also make sure no one uses the button without the key in and in the ON position.
hmmmmm
i wont go fixing mine (laziness)
but for future installs its a great tip.
i also make sure no one uses the button without the key in and in the ON position.
hmmmmm
#272
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On Post 197 (by LEO_06GT) there is a document link that confirms it:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...LRS-11572K.pdf
This documnet does refer to using the power from the white ignition wire (from the ignition harness) in Step 9. They are using a relay, but the idea is the same.
I am not sure why they use a relay - perhaps the contacts in the ignition switch are heavier than the ones in the aftermarket Start switch. But the signal from the ignition (when you turn the key) should go to a starter relay anyway. The aftermarket start switch is sending the same signal to the starter relay...
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...LRS-11572K.pdf
This documnet does refer to using the power from the white ignition wire (from the ignition harness) in Step 9. They are using a relay, but the idea is the same.
I am not sure why they use a relay - perhaps the contacts in the ignition switch are heavier than the ones in the aftermarket Start switch. But the signal from the ignition (when you turn the key) should go to a starter relay anyway. The aftermarket start switch is sending the same signal to the starter relay...
#276
i ordered it online from pep boys. really cheap it was like $40 shipped and its really easy to install an they have green, red, yellow blue and i think another color but i cant remember.
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If someone pushed the button with the engine running it won't do anything. Even if you have a 5 sp and you happen to have the clutch in to allow the starter circut to operate, it won't do anything. The car's computer knows when the engine is running and won't allow the starter to engage no matter what you do. Truely idiot proof.
I had to try this out because I though as well, what if someone in the passenger seat pushed the button?
Having said all that, I noticed my stereo will shut off as long as the button is depressed. As soon as you let the button back out, the radio comes back on. Just like when you start the car, a few things turn off to limit the drain on the battery when starting. Just an observation of mine.
I had to try this out because I though as well, what if someone in the passenger seat pushed the button?
Having said all that, I noticed my stereo will shut off as long as the button is depressed. As soon as you let the button back out, the radio comes back on. Just like when you start the car, a few things turn off to limit the drain on the battery when starting. Just an observation of mine.
#278
2008 Saleen SA-25 Sterling Edition Mustang
Any one know how the push button start on this car is set up
http://www.autoblog.com/photos/2008-...ustang/596241/
http://www.autoblog.com/photos/2008-...ustang/596241/
#280
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Geez every time I look at your avatar it totally creeps me out....................
I can't take it anymore please change it...........
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