long tube headers $253.47
#142
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thanks faber for providing this information and future specs!
#145
#148
Not sure. I looked on bassani's site and it looks like their x pipes will work fine. I did not see a 6 piece pipe though. The OBX headers come with 2 different h-pipes included so you should be good to go!
#149
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Faber,
Thanks for the info, I'll have a go with my stock mounts & see how it turns out. Will post after I get mine installed.
Did you get your tune revised for the headers?
Thanks for the info, I'll have a go with my stock mounts & see how it turns out. Will post after I get mine installed.
Did you get your tune revised for the headers?
#151
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Honestly, a ton of companies are using the same basic design for longtube headers so the sound difference between them is going to be very subtle
...However the big difference will come into play when you consider which midpipe they are running, X or H, resonators?, cats?, Both?, None?, Mufflers, muffler placement...well you get the idea
...However the big difference will come into play when you consider which midpipe they are running, X or H, resonators?, cats?, Both?, None?, Mufflers, muffler placement...well you get the idea
#152
Honestly, a ton of companies are using the same basic design for longtube headers so the sound difference between them is going to be very subtle
...However the big difference will come into play when you consider which midpipe they are running, X or H, resonators?, cats?, Both?, None?, Mufflers, muffler placement...well you get the idea
...However the big difference will come into play when you consider which midpipe they are running, X or H, resonators?, cats?, Both?, None?, Mufflers, muffler placement...well you get the idea
#153
I would say it sounds like an offroad H-pipe. And with my non-muffler equipped car it sounded like a dumptruck. The thing that sealed the deal for me to put my mufflers back on was the super high decibel chatter demonic roar that was blowing out of my pipes while just taking off from a light at normal speed. My mufflers are vortex straight through design with a few small baffles which don't block the flow really but absorb some of the shrill top end. they work great.....too great. Now i gotta find a tradeoff that i can live with. maybe electric cutouts
#154
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Faber,
Another question for you. Have you had any check engine lights since you installed the OBX? Or have you had the check engine light turned off? I've already got my rear O2 sensors turned off.
Reason I'm asking is Brent has mentioned that with the front O2 sensor being further downstream from it's original location,it tends too cool off too rapidly & throws out a code. He suggested I might want to turn off the check engine light completly.
Thanks
Another question for you. Have you had any check engine lights since you installed the OBX? Or have you had the check engine light turned off? I've already got my rear O2 sensors turned off.
Reason I'm asking is Brent has mentioned that with the front O2 sensor being further downstream from it's original location,it tends too cool off too rapidly & throws out a code. He suggested I might want to turn off the check engine light completly.
Thanks
#155
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Faber,
Another question for you. Have you had any check engine lights since you installed the OBX? Or have you had the check engine light turned off? I've already got my rear O2 sensors turned off.
Reason I'm asking is Brent has mentioned that with the front O2 sensor being further downstream from it's original location,it tends too cool off too rapidly & throws out a code. He suggested I might want to turn off the check engine light completly.
Thanks
Another question for you. Have you had any check engine lights since you installed the OBX? Or have you had the check engine light turned off? I've already got my rear O2 sensors turned off.
Reason I'm asking is Brent has mentioned that with the front O2 sensor being further downstream from it's original location,it tends too cool off too rapidly & throws out a code. He suggested I might want to turn off the check engine light completly.
Thanks
Hey Larry,
I have seen this being a possible problem with all longtubes. Check with Brent if they have this problem with the Kooks and Mac headers they sale and install. Also, if you have them ceramic coated which I think might cost about $200 bucks it will keep the heat in the headers and not cause the problem I believe. Also, after you get the headers later this week and find out where the O2 sensor bungs are we might be able to move it upstream some if needed. I just happen to know someone the works in a toolshop that can get that done for you.
Scott
#156
Faber,
Another question for you. Have you had any check engine lights since you installed the OBX? Or have you had the check engine light turned off? I've already got my rear O2 sensors turned off.
Reason I'm asking is Brent has mentioned that with the front O2 sensor being further downstream from it's original location,it tends too cool off too rapidly & throws out a code. He suggested I might want to turn off the check engine light completly.
Thanks
Another question for you. Have you had any check engine lights since you installed the OBX? Or have you had the check engine light turned off? I've already got my rear O2 sensors turned off.
Reason I'm asking is Brent has mentioned that with the front O2 sensor being further downstream from it's original location,it tends too cool off too rapidly & throws out a code. He suggested I might want to turn off the check engine light completly.
Thanks
#157
Cobra Member
Faber,
Thanks for the quick reply. I'll probably run where is & see how it goes.
Scott,
Brent said the Kooks & Macs have the bungs up higher & have not been an issue. Thats why he sells them.
The OBX bung is lower in the collector.
Wonder where I might find a experienced metal worker!!
Larry
Thanks for the quick reply. I'll probably run where is & see how it goes.
Scott,
Brent said the Kooks & Macs have the bungs up higher & have not been an issue. Thats why he sells them.
The OBX bung is lower in the collector.
Wonder where I might find a experienced metal worker!!
Larry
#159
I have not had an issue with the front o2 sensors at all either. it is the non existant rears that seem to cause the issue, but that is the same will all long tubes if i am not mistaken.
#160
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You are correct. The front O2 sensors are the one the computer really needs. That whole open loop verses closed loop computer thingy. You just need to get the rears turned off in you tune.
Scott