long tube headers $253.47
#81
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#83
2 ton hydraulic jack and some jack stands
5mm end wrench
8mm end wrench
13mm end wrench
15mm end wrench
17mm end wrench
19mm end wrench
21mm end wrench
3/8 drive ratchet with 3 long extensions, and a swivel
Sockets (shallow and deep) for all sizes of wrenches mentioned above
1/2 inch ratcheting box end craftsman wrench (someone had suggested it and i am including it because i wished i had taken that advice...)
- Jack up the car, set the E-brake and put her on jack stands.
- Remove the battery and the battery tray
- unplug all O2 sensors, but did not remove them from manifolds or h-pipe
- unbolt the hpipe from the exhaust manifolds
- remove the driveshaft loop type thing
- remove the tranny crossmember bolts
- loosen the pipe clamps on the H-pipe and wrestle it out from the car.
- Remove the starter
- remove the motor mount nuts on the K-member.
- place a wood block ( I used a 2x6 about 8 inches long) under the oil pan and jack the motor up enough to get the mounts loose.
- remove the motor mount brackets
- Remove all nuts from exhaust manifolds (some guys like to just loosen the manifold nuts a bit and then remove the studs, but i only remove the studs that I could not get the headers over easily. this way the gaskets will hang on without trouble)
- remove the exhaust manifolds.
- Place gaskets on heads. I re-used the stock gaskets because they were nice and thin and in great shape.
- remove old 02 sensors from old h-pipe
- Install headers.
- I extended the o2 sensors myself with a soldering iron and some high temp gasoline resistant wire and heat shrink tubing, otherwise install o2 sensor extensions.
- install 02 sensors ans zip tie away from heat sources.
- install h-pipe
- re-install tranny crossmember.
- re-install driveshaft loop thingy
- get her off the jack and go for a drive! listen for leaks, and make sure you get the car up to operating temp.
- let the car cool down and then re-torque everything.
This job took me about 8 hours start to finish.
#85
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oh definitely KenB and tillman are rock solid from all my experiences and talking with them.
its not them making the killing...its AR and KOOKS and such. i know retail mark up is usually very small margin.
i feel if these are good perhaps, kenb and tillman may consider selling them
i would rather buy from them if they include a tune for it
its not them making the killing...its AR and KOOKS and such. i know retail mark up is usually very small margin.
i feel if these are good perhaps, kenb and tillman may consider selling them
i would rather buy from them if they include a tune for it
#86
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Faber, wow, thanks for that great synopsis of the install. Given all this positive feedback and a feasible self-installation, I'm really interested.
Can anyone who has these headers please get a dyno test? Ideally somebody who already had their car dynoed before the headers were installed..
Can anyone who has these headers please get a dyno test? Ideally somebody who already had their car dynoed before the headers were installed..
#88
http://www.mustangforums.com/m_1355445/tm.htm
check out the ARH long tubes again...just a few welds:
check out the ARH long tubes again...just a few welds:
#89
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Matt is right guys. Any longtube header is worth maybe 20-25 hp max. And half of that comes from losing the cats and not the headers at all. So since I am already running an offroad mid pipe I may only net 10-15 hp max with any longtube header. But $500 bucks for 10 hp is alot more reasonable than $1,500. And it sounds like Faber's install was pretty clean.
Scott
#90
For those that have actually done the OBX header install, how is the fitment of the collector/H-pipe in terms of ground clearance? Does it hang down below the frame rail, even the slightest bit? I know the ARH setup does not, and ground clearance is pretty critical in a lowered application. If the OBX headers don't, then they become contenders...
Honestly, the headers look like extremely nice pieces. The "tinker-toy" H-pipe, though, looks kind of cheesy, and leak-prone. Are there rear O2 bosses either in or after the cats? And can anybody verify that those are actually catlytic converters, and not resonators or bullet mufflers?
Honestly, the headers look like extremely nice pieces. The "tinker-toy" H-pipe, though, looks kind of cheesy, and leak-prone. Are there rear O2 bosses either in or after the cats? And can anybody verify that those are actually catlytic converters, and not resonators or bullet mufflers?
#91
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Faber, I hope your not impling that I'm "made of money" because I bought a set of headers that cost around $1,400 ? If you want to say someone is "made of money" then say it to anyone who purchases a blower for their car (priced from $5,000 for parts, upwards over $7,000 for total with install and dyno tune). I saved my money and wanted something that sounded BAD. I now have that. If these other headers work out, that great. I'm glad some are saving some money. If the performance gains are close to the "name brands", then these are an excellent alternative.
#92
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Matt, Mustang Enthusiast installed Longtube headers on a new Mustang. With a catted X-Pipe I believe (have to find the issue so I can post pics of the dyno graph), their peak gain was just under 30hp to the rear, with a tune. These were pretty good numbers IMO. I don't know what your definition of "huge improvements" are, but almost 30 hp isn't too bad, at least to me they are.
#93
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According to Faber, no, there is only one set of bungs in the header collectors.
They're not advertised as cats (at least what I read) and the lack of a second set of O2 bungs leades me to believe they're not. If they have what looks a screen inside them obstructing the flow them they're a catalytic converter. Whether they are hi-flow ceramic or hi-flow metal matrix I wouldn't know. See Random Technologies is you want to know more about current catalytic converter technology.
Faber, what does the inside of those bullets look like?.
And can anybody verify that those are actually catlytic converters, and not resonators or bullet mufflers?
Faber, what does the inside of those bullets look like?.
#94
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Matt, Mustang Enthusiast installed Longtube headers on a new Mustang. With a catted X-Pipe I believe (have to find the issue so I can post pics of the dyno graph), their peak gain was just under 30hp to the rear, with a tune. These were pretty good numbers IMO. I don't know what your definition of "huge improvements" are, but almost 30 hp isn't too bad, at least to me they are.
I saw the car dyno in person, and all of us were surprised how low the reading was/is...That seems to be slightly lower then most S197 GT owners have been seeing on the dyno but never the less most are within 10-15rwhp. Personally, I have yet to see a personal claim of anyone gaining 30rwhp from Headers, catless mid, and tune.
#95
Matt speaketh the truth. Last time I got dyno'd I was even with not 1 but 2 other guys with the same bolt ons except I had ARH LT headers w/ catted H, and they both had o/r x-pipes with stock exhaust manifolds. However, since that time, Tillman found a critical flaw in my tune (don't know what it was), corrected it, and now the car seems stronger than before, and the bugs have been worked out. So I'd expect something closer to at least 310 rwhp now.
#97
Team Mustang Source
Seriously Chuck, if you're considering this and want a shop to do it, drop me a PM and I'll give you the number to my buddy in Plant City. He has a shop and did my 4.10 gears 2 years ago. He's the only person I'd ever trust my car with over night
#98
The headers dont hang lower than the frame rails at all. The h-pipe has bullet mufflers in it, no cats. I took a picture of the inside of one which clearly shows the lack of any screen or obstruction. The only O2 bungs are on the headers. The h-pipe is actually very sturdy, but I will be having it welded at the H instead of using a clamp. tinker toy...lol
I was not saying anybody that bought $1500.00 headers was made of money. I was saying if I was made of money I would not hesitate to buy $1500.00 headers. I wont pay $7000.00 for a supercharger either..but I will buy one for $3000.00
I was not saying anybody that bought $1500.00 headers was made of money. I was saying if I was made of money I would not hesitate to buy $1500.00 headers. I wont pay $7000.00 for a supercharger either..but I will buy one for $3000.00
#99
Legacy TMS Member
The headers dont hang lower than the frame rails at all. The h-pipe has bullet mufflers in it, no cats. I took a picture of the inside of one which clearly shows the lack of any screen or obstruction. The only O2 bungs are on the headers. The h-pipe is actually very sturdy, but I will be having it welded at the H instead of using a clamp. tinker toy...lol
I was not saying anybody that bought $1500.00 headers was made of money. I was saying if I was made of money I would not hesitate to buy $1500.00 headers. I wont pay $7000.00 for a supercharger either..but I will buy one for $3000.00
I was not saying anybody that bought $1500.00 headers was made of money. I was saying if I was made of money I would not hesitate to buy $1500.00 headers. I wont pay $7000.00 for a supercharger either..but I will buy one for $3000.00
#100
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People seem to be comparing these to $1,400~1,500 headers and I don't think that's accurate, especially since the OBX's aren't catted.
JBA 6675S long tubes can be had for $580.00 and their 6675SH offroad H for $165.00. That's $745.00. And I think those race mufflers/resonators are only worth about $150?
JBA 6675S long tubes can be had for $580.00 and their 6675SH offroad H for $165.00. That's $745.00. And I think those race mufflers/resonators are only worth about $150?