long tube headers $253.47
9/30/07, 06:21 PM
#21
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awesome! dyno!
Well I installed the headers today. Total install time took about 6 hours. I did it over a buddies house on a lift. Install basically went great. I forgot my camera so, unfortunetly I didn't do a TacoBill style write-up.
The headers lined up great with no issues. The H-pipe took a little bit of "massaging" to go on, but nothing really to bad. I also installed Prothane motor mounts in there while I was at it. I think without those the headers would have most likely hit the steering shaft. I used their version of a catted H-pipe, but there version of a cat is basically a bullet style muffler. You could look right through it. I reused the stock gaskets and most of the stock studs. 3 of the top studs on the drivers side I had replace with bolts. I also had to use a set of O2 extenders. I was really surprised at how well these headers fit for the price.
So are these headers worth 480.00?? HELL YES! The car now has much deeper rumble to it, and screams at WOT. It pulls MUCH harder at the top end than it did before. I do notice that with Prothane mounts in there you can feel a lot more vibration in the car. Nothing thats too over the top though, and the benefits far outweigh this.
So in MY experience the OBX longtube headers are a great bang for the buck mod.
The headers lined up great with no issues. The H-pipe took a little bit of "massaging" to go on, but nothing really to bad. I also installed Prothane motor mounts in there while I was at it. I think without those the headers would have most likely hit the steering shaft. I used their version of a catted H-pipe, but there version of a cat is basically a bullet style muffler. You could look right through it. I reused the stock gaskets and most of the stock studs. 3 of the top studs on the drivers side I had replace with bolts. I also had to use a set of O2 extenders. I was really surprised at how well these headers fit for the price.
So are these headers worth 480.00?? HELL YES! The car now has much deeper rumble to it, and screams at WOT. It pulls MUCH harder at the top end than it did before. I do notice that with Prothane mounts in there you can feel a lot more vibration in the car. Nothing thats too over the top though, and the benefits far outweigh this.
So in MY experience the OBX longtube headers are a great bang for the buck mod.
thanks tragik. this sounds very promising! you saved a ton of money! a AR or KOOKs set up would cost around $1300-1400. more than 3x the cost!
Please post DYNO results if possible. Do you think u need a tune?
no issues with check engine light? thanks tragik!
10/1/07, 01:37 AM
#22
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Well I installed the headers today. Total install time took about 6 hours. I did it over a buddies house on a lift. Install basically went great. I forgot my camera so, unfortunetly I didn't do a TacoBill style write-up.
The headers lined up great with no issues. The H-pipe took a little bit of "massaging" to go on, but nothing really to bad. I also installed Prothane motor mounts in there while I was at it. I think without those the headers would have most likely hit the steering shaft. I used their version of a catted H-pipe, but there version of a cat is basically a bullet style muffler. You could look right through it. I reused the stock gaskets and most of the stock studs. 3 of the top studs on the drivers side I had replace with bolts. I also had to use a set of O2 extenders. I was really surprised at how well these headers fit for the price.
So are these headers worth 480.00?? HELL YES! The car now has much deeper rumble to it, and screams at WOT. It pulls MUCH harder at the top end than it did before. I do notice that with Prothane mounts in there you can feel a lot more vibration in the car. Nothing thats too over the top though, and the benefits far outweigh this.
So in MY experience the OBX longtube headers are a great bang for the buck mod.
The headers lined up great with no issues. The H-pipe took a little bit of "massaging" to go on, but nothing really to bad. I also installed Prothane motor mounts in there while I was at it. I think without those the headers would have most likely hit the steering shaft. I used their version of a catted H-pipe, but there version of a cat is basically a bullet style muffler. You could look right through it. I reused the stock gaskets and most of the stock studs. 3 of the top studs on the drivers side I had replace with bolts. I also had to use a set of O2 extenders. I was really surprised at how well these headers fit for the price.
So are these headers worth 480.00?? HELL YES! The car now has much deeper rumble to it, and screams at WOT. It pulls MUCH harder at the top end than it did before. I do notice that with Prothane mounts in there you can feel a lot more vibration in the car. Nothing thats too over the top though, and the benefits far outweigh this.
So in MY experience the OBX longtube headers are a great bang for the buck mod.
now we need pics...
10/1/07, 04:10 PM
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10/1/07, 05:26 PM
#26
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Mine weren't knock offs. We thought they were at first, but I contacted JBA and they have been having a lot of problems with knock offs. They agreed to send me brand new ceramic coated LT's with an H-pipe if I sent them the ones I had received. They wanted them as evidence to build a case against what appears to be an inside thief. JBA rocks and I can't thank them enough for helping me out of a bad deal. They did end up being JBA's, just not a finished product. Someone evidently stole them from JBA in mid production.
10/1/07, 05:41 PM
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10/1/07, 07:39 PM
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10/2/07, 07:40 AM
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I'm not here to rain on anyone's parade. Those headers might look nice to initial inspection.... though there are some issues.
The thin wall metal will take forever to keep heat in order to warm up the upstream 02 sensors. You need those for idle stability, short term fuel trim accuracy, and for safe air fuel levels while cruising or part throttle before you switch to open loop and WOT.
The other thing I would do is measure the thickness of the flange that bolts to the head. If it's not 3/8" thick... I wouldn't even mess with it.
They use T409 stainless, which is still stainless no doubt. However they're using over-seas stainless and arent using merge-collectors or firecone collectors. They are going to create less horsepower no matter what way you slice it.
I'm not trying to discredit this product, this is just some of the potential problems with going with a cheap header.
You do get what you pay for, and there are many people who will attest to that. Everyone WANTS the cheaper part to work just as good, and sometimes you can get away with it. This may or may not be one of them. From my initial inspection, it's not one of them.
Good luck to those who bought them... with the proper tune you should be able to still get some okay numbers from them. Just make sure you datalog your STFT's... make sure they come on in a reasonable amount of time. If you have to sit there with your foot on the gas to warm them up and make them come alive, do yourself a favor... new headers.
CR
Tillman Speed
610-497-3711
The thin wall metal will take forever to keep heat in order to warm up the upstream 02 sensors. You need those for idle stability, short term fuel trim accuracy, and for safe air fuel levels while cruising or part throttle before you switch to open loop and WOT.
The other thing I would do is measure the thickness of the flange that bolts to the head. If it's not 3/8" thick... I wouldn't even mess with it.
They use T409 stainless, which is still stainless no doubt. However they're using over-seas stainless and arent using merge-collectors or firecone collectors. They are going to create less horsepower no matter what way you slice it.
I'm not trying to discredit this product, this is just some of the potential problems with going with a cheap header.
You do get what you pay for, and there are many people who will attest to that. Everyone WANTS the cheaper part to work just as good, and sometimes you can get away with it. This may or may not be one of them. From my initial inspection, it's not one of them.
Good luck to those who bought them... with the proper tune you should be able to still get some okay numbers from them. Just make sure you datalog your STFT's... make sure they come on in a reasonable amount of time. If you have to sit there with your foot on the gas to warm them up and make them come alive, do yourself a favor... new headers.
CR
Tillman Speed
610-497-3711
10/2/07, 08:20 AM
#32
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I'm not here to rain on anyone's parade. Those headers might look nice to initial inspection.... though there are some issues.
The thin wall metal will take forever to keep heat in order to warm up the upstream 02 sensors. You need those for idle stability, short term fuel trim accuracy, and for safe air fuel levels while cruising or part throttle before you switch to open loop and WOT.
The other thing I would do is measure the thickness of the flange that bolts to the head. If it's not 3/8" thick... I wouldn't even mess with it.
They use T409 stainless, which is still stainless no doubt. However they're using over-seas stainless and arent using merge-collectors or firecone collectors. They are going to create less horsepower no matter what way you slice it.
I'm not trying to discredit this product, this is just some of the potential problems with going with a cheap header.
You do get what you pay for, and there are many people who will attest to that. Everyone WANTS the cheaper part to work just as good, and sometimes you can get away with it. This may or may not be one of them. From my initial inspection, it's not one of them.
Good luck to those who bought them... with the proper tune you should be able to still get some okay numbers from them. Just make sure you datalog your STFT's... make sure they come on in a reasonable amount of time. If you have to sit there with your foot on the gas to warm them up and make them come alive, do yourself a favor... new headers.
CR
Tillman Speed
610-497-3711
The thin wall metal will take forever to keep heat in order to warm up the upstream 02 sensors. You need those for idle stability, short term fuel trim accuracy, and for safe air fuel levels while cruising or part throttle before you switch to open loop and WOT.
The other thing I would do is measure the thickness of the flange that bolts to the head. If it's not 3/8" thick... I wouldn't even mess with it.
They use T409 stainless, which is still stainless no doubt. However they're using over-seas stainless and arent using merge-collectors or firecone collectors. They are going to create less horsepower no matter what way you slice it.
I'm not trying to discredit this product, this is just some of the potential problems with going with a cheap header.
You do get what you pay for, and there are many people who will attest to that. Everyone WANTS the cheaper part to work just as good, and sometimes you can get away with it. This may or may not be one of them. From my initial inspection, it's not one of them.
Good luck to those who bought them... with the proper tune you should be able to still get some okay numbers from them. Just make sure you datalog your STFT's... make sure they come on in a reasonable amount of time. If you have to sit there with your foot on the gas to warm them up and make them come alive, do yourself a favor... new headers.
CR
Tillman Speed
610-497-3711
All I can suggest is that you take a look at these first. They are not thin wall metal, they are 3/8 inch at the flange, and the collector is identical to the slip fit style ones that JBA, Kooks, and the like are using. As far as them being T409, I am only going by what I was told by the seller with 21,000+ Positive feedbacks on Ebay had in his add. I could be wrong on that. Isn't there a way to test with a magnet? Magnets will stick to 409 and not to 304? Either way I'm still happy.
I'm not the kind of guy who is Mr. El Cheapo when it comes to my car. I Just personally thought that the prices coming from ARH, Kooks, and so on were just out of line. I wasn't going pay 1200.00 to 1400.00 for headers. I have nothing against people who do. Please don't suggest that mine are vastly inferior just because of the price without actually looking at them first.
10/2/07, 10:36 AM
#33
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All I can suggest is that you take a look at these first. They are not thin wall metal, they are 3/8 inch at the flange, and the collector is identical to the slip fit style ones that JBA, Kooks, and the like are using. As far as them being T409, I am only going by what I was told by the seller with 21,000+ Positive feedbacks on Ebay had in his add. I could be wrong on that. Isn't there a way to test with a magnet? Magnets will stick to 409 and not to 304? Either way I'm still happy.
I'm not the kind of guy who is Mr. El Cheapo when it comes to my car. I Just personally thought that the prices coming from ARH, Kooks, and so on were just out of line. I wasn't going pay 1200.00 to 1400.00 for headers. I have nothing against people who do. Please don't suggest that mine are vastly inferior just because of the price without actually looking at them first.
I'm not the kind of guy who is Mr. El Cheapo when it comes to my car. I Just personally thought that the prices coming from ARH, Kooks, and so on were just out of line. I wasn't going pay 1200.00 to 1400.00 for headers. I have nothing against people who do. Please don't suggest that mine are vastly inferior just because of the price without actually looking at them first.
Those collectors are different than ARH/Kooks, I would like a good picture of the inside of them.
Where is the placement of the o2 sensors?
Also, if you were going to hand craft a set of headers, what would you want for your time? I can mass produce headers from overseas to cut costs as well. I can still have them nicely crafted out of some grade of stainless, and they'd be just fine.
All I'm saying is be careful, as you will not find anyone who has tested these headers and gone as far as datalogging, etc. I'm not knocking the headers, but I'm saying there's a good reason you pay extra for Kooks or ARH.
ARH and Kooks pay on average over $50 dollars more PER CAT than any other company on the market. They use T304 stainless made in America and top quality firecone and merge collectors (call them what you will). Their flanges are that thick to prevent warping, and allow a better seal. 3/8" and nickel plated. Look at how they finish the inside of the primaries at the flange as well.
Once again... someone should provide us with good quality photos of the insides of the collector, the placement of the o2's, the flanges, and the ports. This will give us all a better idea whether or not this is going to save money for a good quality part, or have potential issues that could be avoided.
I'm not just posting because I push the ARH and Kooks headers. We have countless people calling to have us push their driveshafts, pulleys, headers, intakes, etc. I had a chinese made intake sent to us the other day made by a VERY large company who is trying to break into the performance world. The thing was horrible. I could sell them for 150 dollars, and make over 80 dollars a kit, but the quality and fitment is junk. We carry OBX, and I buy those things for less than 350 dollars. Could make quick money there, too. I just want to get some results on how these things actually are.
If it seems too good to be true, it probably is. Let's get some pictures and datalogs up here before we steer people in either direction.
CR
10/2/07, 10:49 AM
#34
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Once again... someone should provide us with good quality photos of the insides of the collector, the placement of the o2's, the flanges, and the ports. This will give us all a better idea whether or not this is going to save money for a good quality part, or have potential issues that could be avoided.
CR
CR
If you carry OBX, why can't you look them over and do some datalogging for all of us?
10/2/07, 10:59 AM
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Until then, if anyone can even just get good pictures of them, that would be great. If not, I'll take care of it first available chance.
CR
Tillman Speed
610-497-3711
10/2/07, 11:00 AM
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My dyno guy just got a set of OBX for his Mustang. They're off getting ceramic coated right now, to keep the heat in. They look great, though. Especially for the price. The welds look nice, and they're nice and thick. As soon as he gets them in, I'll have some dyno numbers. If they come out good, I'll be ordering a set.
10/3/07, 07:08 PM
#38
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I went to the track last night. First time with the new longtubes and no other changes. Weather was the same as 2 weeks ago when I went. I haven't changed the tune for the longtubes yet either.
Tha bad:
I didn't really gain any ET, actually ran exactly the same ET as before.
The good:
I picked up 2.6 mph over 2 weeks ago. I ran consistent 103.0 on all four runs 2 weeks ago. Ran 105.6 on both runs last night. In gaining more MPH I know there was HP made with the longtubes, so I am pretty happy.
My 60' were also a .1 slower last night. So really I lost a .1 at the 60' mark, but ran the same ET. I'm hoping after I get the tune changed I'll pick up some ET..
Here was my run:
60' 2.1
1/8 8.69
1/4 13.37
MPH 105.65
Tha bad:
I didn't really gain any ET, actually ran exactly the same ET as before.
The good:
I picked up 2.6 mph over 2 weeks ago. I ran consistent 103.0 on all four runs 2 weeks ago. Ran 105.6 on both runs last night. In gaining more MPH I know there was HP made with the longtubes, so I am pretty happy.
My 60' were also a .1 slower last night. So really I lost a .1 at the 60' mark, but ran the same ET. I'm hoping after I get the tune changed I'll pick up some ET..
Here was my run:
60' 2.1
1/8 8.69
1/4 13.37
MPH 105.65
10/3/07, 08:28 PM
#39
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My dyno guy just got a set of OBX for his Mustang. They're off getting ceramic coated right now, to keep the heat in. They look great, though. Especially for the price. The welds look nice, and they're nice and thick. As soon as he gets them in, I'll have some dyno numbers. If they come out good, I'll be ordering a set.
hi darkfireGT,
keep us informed!
