GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

long tube headers $253.47

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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 12:14 AM
  #141  
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1 3/4 primaries on the obx headers. just measured.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 12:16 AM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by Faber
I installed bullet engine mounts, but i think the stockers would have cleared just fine. the motor mounts were easy as hell to replace while i was doing the long tube install. I will go measure those primaries right now and post the specs.
thanks faber for providing this information and future specs!
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 12:36 AM
  #143  
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no sweat man! thats what this site is all about
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 12:42 AM
  #144  
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So my Bassani wont work with this then?
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 01:55 AM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by 06StangSC
So my Bassani wont work with this then?
if your bassani mid pipe is made to mate up to stock exhaust manifolds then you will need to cut it and mate it up to the headers. if it is made for long tubes then you are good to go.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 02:49 AM
  #146  
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Thanks for the info Faber.
Scott
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 12:31 PM
  #147  
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Thanks Faber. I have the modular Bassani X that came in like 6 pieces. Does it matter what long tubes I go with? Or do they have to be Bassani.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 12:37 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by 06StangSC
Thanks Faber. I have the modular Bassani X that came in like 6 pieces. Does it matter what long tubes I go with? Or do they have to be Bassani.
Not sure. I looked on bassani's site and it looks like their x pipes will work fine. I did not see a 6 piece pipe though. The OBX headers come with 2 different h-pipes included so you should be good to go!
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 05:20 PM
  #149  
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Faber,
Thanks for the info, I'll have a go with my stock mounts & see how it turns out. Will post after I get mine installed.

Did you get your tune revised for the headers?
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 06:49 PM
  #150  
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Anyone have a sound clip yet? Man I'd love to hear them.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 08:09 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by Jimp
Anyone have a sound clip yet? Man I'd love to hear them.
Honestly, a ton of companies are using the same basic design for longtube headers so the sound difference between them is going to be very subtle

...However the big difference will come into play when you consider which midpipe they are running, X or H, resonators?, cats?, Both?, None?, Mufflers, muffler placement...well you get the idea
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 10:08 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by SlamMan02
Honestly, a ton of companies are using the same basic design for longtube headers so the sound difference between them is going to be very subtle

...However the big difference will come into play when you consider which midpipe they are running, X or H, resonators?, cats?, Both?, None?, Mufflers, muffler placement...well you get the idea
This is true but usually it's either a high flow cat or an o/r pipe. The race mufflers in the mid pipe might make a different sound. Does it sound more like an o/r pipe or a catted h-pipe? That's what I'm curious about.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 11:46 PM
  #153  
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I would say it sounds like an offroad H-pipe. And with my non-muffler equipped car it sounded like a dumptruck. The thing that sealed the deal for me to put my mufflers back on was the super high decibel chatter demonic roar that was blowing out of my pipes while just taking off from a light at normal speed. My mufflers are vortex straight through design with a few small baffles which don't block the flow really but absorb some of the shrill top end. they work great.....too great. Now i gotta find a tradeoff that i can live with. maybe electric cutouts
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 04:23 PM
  #154  
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Faber,
Another question for you. Have you had any check engine lights since you installed the OBX? Or have you had the check engine light turned off? I've already got my rear O2 sensors turned off.
Reason I'm asking is Brent has mentioned that with the front O2 sensor being further downstream from it's original location,it tends too cool off too rapidly & throws out a code. He suggested I might want to turn off the check engine light completly.
Thanks
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 04:34 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by aircare84
Faber,
Another question for you. Have you had any check engine lights since you installed the OBX? Or have you had the check engine light turned off? I've already got my rear O2 sensors turned off.
Reason I'm asking is Brent has mentioned that with the front O2 sensor being further downstream from it's original location,it tends too cool off too rapidly & throws out a code. He suggested I might want to turn off the check engine light completly.
Thanks


Hey Larry,
I have seen this being a possible problem with all longtubes. Check with Brent if they have this problem with the Kooks and Mac headers they sale and install. Also, if you have them ceramic coated which I think might cost about $200 bucks it will keep the heat in the headers and not cause the problem I believe. Also, after you get the headers later this week and find out where the O2 sensor bungs are we might be able to move it upstream some if needed. I just happen to know someone the works in a toolshop that can get that done for you.
Scott
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 04:38 PM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by aircare84
Faber,
Another question for you. Have you had any check engine lights since you installed the OBX? Or have you had the check engine light turned off? I've already got my rear O2 sensors turned off.
Reason I'm asking is Brent has mentioned that with the front O2 sensor being further downstream from it's original location,it tends too cool off too rapidly & throws out a code. He suggested I might want to turn off the check engine light completly.
Thanks
Got 02 sensor errors from the rears because they were not turned off in the tune yet. The front sensors have not thrown any codes at all. I extended the wires myself as professionally as I could with solder and heat shrink tubing, and so far so good.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 04:46 PM
  #157  
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Faber,
Thanks for the quick reply. I'll probably run where is & see how it goes.

Scott,
Brent said the Kooks & Macs have the bungs up higher & have not been an issue. Thats why he sells them.
The OBX bung is lower in the collector.
Wonder where I might find a experienced metal worker!!

Larry
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 05:01 PM
  #158  
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And remember, I can get these babies ceramic-coated here in my town if you or anyone wishes.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 05:14 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by aircare84
Faber,
Scott,
Brent said the Kooks & Macs have the bungs up higher & have not been an issue.
Larry
I have not had an issue with the front o2 sensors at all either. it is the non existant rears that seem to cause the issue, but that is the same will all long tubes if i am not mistaken.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 05:25 PM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by Faber
I have not had an issue with the front o2 sensors at all either. it is the non existant rears that seem to cause the issue, but that is the same will all long tubes if i am not mistaken.
Faber,
You are correct. The front O2 sensors are the one the computer really needs. That whole open loop verses closed loop computer thingy. You just need to get the rears turned off in you tune.
Scott
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