View Poll Results: I am interested in a....
Black Powdercoat Finish



58
49.15%
Clear Powdercoat over Polished



33
27.97%
Paint Matched



27
22.88%
Voters: 118. You may not vote on this poll
Heat Shields for you 05-07 Mustang Intakes
I know the majority of us use JLT/C&L/Steeda...
I have talked about this in another thread. I want to get a count of how many would be interested in purchasing a high quality polished aluminum or black powdercoated aluminum heat shield with grommets for maximum radiant heat protection.
They would do away with the flimsy heatshields from the manufacturer, and offer much cooler air temps to the filter. I would start by offering a unit very similar to the ones now, only in sturdy aluminum with a rubber seal for the hood, and where the heat shield sits to eliminate rattle.
If they were good quality, fit, and finish I want to get an idea of how many would be interested in buying them if the price was right.
Let me know, and I can get a prototype done up, with detailed pictures to post. From there I could get an exact price per unit. Should only take a few weeks.
Let me know! Thanks
C.R.
Tillman Speed
********************EDIT*********************
Just to clear things up, I am not trying to steer business away from any of the air intakes listed above. Those companies make AWESOME kits, and you still need to buy the air intake kit from the manufacturer. I am just going to make an improvement heat shield that looks nicer, and eliminates radiant heat and rattles. I do not want to start any troubles with JLT, C&L, or Steeda because they are
I have talked about this in another thread. I want to get a count of how many would be interested in purchasing a high quality polished aluminum or black powdercoated aluminum heat shield with grommets for maximum radiant heat protection.
They would do away with the flimsy heatshields from the manufacturer, and offer much cooler air temps to the filter. I would start by offering a unit very similar to the ones now, only in sturdy aluminum with a rubber seal for the hood, and where the heat shield sits to eliminate rattle.
If they were good quality, fit, and finish I want to get an idea of how many would be interested in buying them if the price was right.
Let me know, and I can get a prototype done up, with detailed pictures to post. From there I could get an exact price per unit. Should only take a few weeks.
Let me know! Thanks
C.R.
Tillman Speed
********************EDIT*********************
Just to clear things up, I am not trying to steer business away from any of the air intakes listed above. Those companies make AWESOME kits, and you still need to buy the air intake kit from the manufacturer. I am just going to make an improvement heat shield that looks nicer, and eliminates radiant heat and rattles. I do not want to start any troubles with JLT, C&L, or Steeda because they are
That's why Steeda uses them. To keep the air only 5 degrees above ambient temperature. That's why K&N uses them. Plastic intake tubing, however they use metallic materials on their heat shields. Take a look at MAC and BBK.
I actually spoke to a representative at ThermoTec today when I was designing the prototype. Metal does act as a heat conductor, however with the cold air rushing in from underneath the box, it will keep heatsoak away from the filter/inlet.
Also, the black powdercoating will help just a little for those who select that option.
Additionally, the reason we switched to aluminum was because stainless steel WOULD hold more heat.
I'm not offended, some will love it, some wont.
I actually spoke to a representative at ThermoTec today when I was designing the prototype. Metal does act as a heat conductor, however with the cold air rushing in from underneath the box, it will keep heatsoak away from the filter/inlet.
Also, the black powdercoating will help just a little for those who select that option.
Additionally, the reason we switched to aluminum was because stainless steel WOULD hold more heat.
I'm not offended, some will love it, some wont.
As stated in the other thread, I'm in for polished. Will your design be using the same bottom mounting rubber gromet that the stock airbox uses? I think that would help keep the box off the fender. I took my shield off recently and noticed that some paint had rubbed off, I'm going to put some touch-up paint on it to make sure it doesn't rust.
That's why Steeda uses them. To keep the air only 5 degrees above ambient temperature. That's why K&N uses them. Plastic intake tubing, however they use metallic materials on their heat shields. Take a look at MAC and BBK.
I actually spoke to a representative at ThermoTec today when I was designing the prototype. Metal does act as a heat conductor, however with the cold air rushing in from underneath the box, it will keep heatsoak away from the filter/inlet.
Also, the black powdercoating will help just a little for those who select that option.
Additionally, the reason we switched to aluminum was because stainless steel WOULD hold more heat.
I'm not offended, some will love it, some wont.
I actually spoke to a representative at ThermoTec today when I was designing the prototype. Metal does act as a heat conductor, however with the cold air rushing in from underneath the box, it will keep heatsoak away from the filter/inlet.
Also, the black powdercoating will help just a little for those who select that option.
Additionally, the reason we switched to aluminum was because stainless steel WOULD hold more heat.
I'm not offended, some will love it, some wont.
As stated in the other thread, I'm in for polished. Will your design be using the same bottom mounting rubber gromet that the stock airbox uses? I think that would help keep the box off the fender. I took my shield off recently and noticed that some paint had rubbed off, I'm going to put some touch-up paint on it to make sure it doesn't rust.
Here, straight from AEM's studies from their chief engineer:
• Whether or not an inlet system is made from aluminum, steel or plastic, the thermal conductivity of the duct material has little effect on engine power
• The rate at which air travels through the inlet path under open throttle, when one is asking the engine for maximum power, negates the effect of material heat soak, regardless of the material
http://www.dcsports.com/ViewNews.aspx?NewsID=7
That's alright if you don't buy one. I understand
• Whether or not an inlet system is made from aluminum, steel or plastic, the thermal conductivity of the duct material has little effect on engine power
• The rate at which air travels through the inlet path under open throttle, when one is asking the engine for maximum power, negates the effect of material heat soak, regardless of the material
http://www.dcsports.com/ViewNews.aspx?NewsID=7
That's alright if you don't buy one. I understand
Under the hood, we're talking about RADIANT HEAT. We're not talking about transferring heat through other materials. In that case, you'd be correct. Here is a study on aluminum's radiant heat properties:
Although two objects may be identical, if the surface of one were covered with a material of 90% emissivity, and the surface of the other with a material of 5% emissivity, the result would be a drastic difference in the rate of radiation flow from these two objects. This is demonstrated by comparison of four identical, equally heated iron radiators covered with different materials. Paint one with aluminum paint and another with ordinary enamel. Cover the third with asbestos and the fourth with aluminum foil. Although all have the same temperature, the one covered with aluminum foil would radiate the least (lowest [5%] emissivity). The radiators covered with ordinary paint or asbestos would radiate most because they have the highest emissivity (even higher than the original iron). Painting over the aluminum paint or foil with ordinary paint changes the surface to 90% emissivity.
The surface of aluminum has the ability NOT TO ABSORB, but TO REFLECT 95% of the infrared rays which strike it. Since aluminum foil has such a low mass to air ratio, very little conduction can take place, particularly when only 5% of the rays are absorbed.
TRY THIS EXPERIMENT: Hold a sample of FOIL INSULATION close to your face, without touching. Soon you will feel the warmth of your own infrared rays bouncing back from the SURFACE. The explanation: The emissivity of heat radiation of the surface of your face is 99%. The absorption of aluminum is only 3%. It sends back 97% of the rays. The absorption rate of your face is 99%. The net result is that you feel the warmth of your face reflected.
Although two objects may be identical, if the surface of one were covered with a material of 90% emissivity, and the surface of the other with a material of 5% emissivity, the result would be a drastic difference in the rate of radiation flow from these two objects. This is demonstrated by comparison of four identical, equally heated iron radiators covered with different materials. Paint one with aluminum paint and another with ordinary enamel. Cover the third with asbestos and the fourth with aluminum foil. Although all have the same temperature, the one covered with aluminum foil would radiate the least (lowest [5%] emissivity). The radiators covered with ordinary paint or asbestos would radiate most because they have the highest emissivity (even higher than the original iron). Painting over the aluminum paint or foil with ordinary paint changes the surface to 90% emissivity.
The surface of aluminum has the ability NOT TO ABSORB, but TO REFLECT 95% of the infrared rays which strike it. Since aluminum foil has such a low mass to air ratio, very little conduction can take place, particularly when only 5% of the rays are absorbed.
TRY THIS EXPERIMENT: Hold a sample of FOIL INSULATION close to your face, without touching. Soon you will feel the warmth of your own infrared rays bouncing back from the SURFACE. The explanation: The emissivity of heat radiation of the surface of your face is 99%. The absorption of aluminum is only 3%. It sends back 97% of the rays. The absorption rate of your face is 99%. The net result is that you feel the warmth of your face reflected.
I think most would be in agreement that the standard placement for "cold air" intakes in far from optimal. Air flow just isn't efficiently routed to the filter to truly be a cold air intake. Even the best heat shield will not protect the air filter fully from underhood temps. But hey, if Tillman's product helps even a little and looks good while doing it, I'm in.
That is, until I can find a kit to route the filter out of the engine compartment.
That is, until I can find a kit to route the filter out of the engine compartment.
There is a demand for a quality heat shield for the CAI intake filters! I too am working on a proto type out of aluminum alloy! In fact its the same aluminum alloy that the Ford F150 hoods are stamped out of ! I have access to blanks at cost! So experimentation is inexpensive No more fabrication thats involved, units should relatively inexpensive to fabricate! Tillmanspeed I think you have found a needed aftermarket component I hope to see MADE IN THE USA stamped on your product...
I think Mongoose needs some lessons in tact. If you disagree with someone who is being as nice as Tillman, just state your point without being pushy or annoyingly mean. Especially when you're wrong...
In other news, Black PowderCoat!
In other news, Black PowderCoat!
j
Someone just make it already,right now I have my intake spacer in with no problems.I'm assuming when this shield comes out I will have to take the spacer of? I'm getting 22 on the street right now,haven't been on the highway yet.it sounds like a mini s/c with it on.no rubbing



