Yeah, good point, it probably does prolong the life of the pads/rotors. I have some cracking on my passenger front I'm worried about tight now

Here is the info I found on the Raybesto's. At the bottom of the page they have temp ratings:
http://www.raybestosbrakes.com/magno...cing-pads.html

This makes sense to me, cooling probably easily keeps the brake temps from exceeding those limits, so you see no fade at the track. I went for the highest temp pad I could find since I knew I don't have cooling, but still the rotors and calipers have to endure it too.

 

Quick update, the pads were actually GS-1 street compound. I noticed GS-1 on the box, and sent an email to Vorshlag with some pictures.

This was Sunday. 3 days later the correct parts are here! Now that's great customer service. Many thanks to Jon at Vorshlag Motorsports!

 

nice!!

 

I might have missed some discussion, which pads do you have now? And that's great the exchange was so quick!!

 

I guess 2 top guys at Carbotech broke off and started their own brake company called G-Loc. Vorshlag switched their track pads from CT to G-Loc, but from what I understand the compounds are the same as Carbotech.

I'll provide feedback on these new pads after my first 2 events at the end of May and early June.

 

Getting the car ready for first track day next weekend. I changed out rotors to Centrics, got new G-Loc pads up front, and a new flush of RBF600.

Few interesting notes:

1) When I checked my rear set of XP8 pads, there was a lot of cracking and the pad was ~60% done. I wear them daily, and there is a lot of dust on the back wheels. I can't expect more than 2 seasons or 16,000 miles I guess and 4-6 track days out of a set. Also the passenger set was more eaten up than the driver set. I don't feel comfortable running like that this season, so I swapped out to the only backup set I had, which are AX6. A bit of a backwards step, but at least these should last all season. I'll consider other options mid summer. I'll see how the first 2 track days go, and either get a new set of XP8 (R8) or step up to XP10 (R10). I think...

2) My suspicion was confirmed today about the rear right caliper being sticky... or something... It was impossible to screw the piston in all the way. It stopped 1/2 turn before full compression, and wouldn't budge. Couldn't get the caliper over the pads! I got a new rear caliper put on (they are only $75) and all is well now. Now the noise I kept hearing from the back of the car is gone too.

All is good, just need to put on my track set of wheels and tires and off we go. I have Grattan next weekend, and Mid Ohio 9 days later!

 

looking good man, excited for you. Give us your feedback after :-)

 

Roger that, and I'll do 1 better. I'm planning to strap a go-pro to my helmet

 

Good luck out there on your first track day of the year! I'll bet you can't wait.
I have my 3rd track date this Saturday followed by my 4th on the 28. This is going to be a great track season.

 

Rotors look good, go get 'em.

 

Thank you, and good luck to you as well this weenend and next. Wow, 4 track days before June, that sounds like a great track season.

Thanks Pete, you too! Your video looked pretty good the other day!

 

Got my track wheel/tire combo on. Ready to rock!

Here are a few pics. I got a nice new low profile garage jack. Makes jacking one side super easy. The old jack was too tall after I lowered the car. Some pics of the new rear caliper too.

 

Nice. I had one of the Harbor Freight 1 1/2 ton jacks and felt like it was going to fall apart trying to lift one whole side of my car. Maybe I need to give it another shot. Would be a better option than the 3 ton all steel low profile one I use now. Then again, I hoping to have a truck and trailer to haul my car to the track later this summer.

 

nice, looking good

 

Hmm, not sure why. This jack feels pretty good, and lifts the whole side in about 8 pumps. Not bad for $125. Hydraulic is a better way to go I think. I can't believe I used this for the last 3 years.

 

Regarding the caliper not retracting - see if the banjo bolt is interfering. That was my issue.

Interested in the new pads. I just was told about the carbotech split last weekend actually. I got awful pad deposits with the XP12's I was trying to burn through at Limerock during my 3 day event there. I've never personally had good luck with carbotechs... But let us know!

Looking good and ready though, enjoy the track time!!

 

This is the random track mods thread, right? So here's a random thought: SEATS!

I found a pair of Boss 302 Recaros on my local Craig's List. They look in good shape in the crappy CL pictures. Except -- the driver seat had the air bag deploy; so the seam is torn and the air bag needs to be replaced. I have asked the seller for good high-res pics of the torn seam, to see if the material or only threads are torn, but he has not sent. Supposedly it is a fairly straightforward repair that any upholstery shop can do (with the air bag parts supplied by me).

I like the idea of a factory seat with air bags and the normal adjustments; versus a track seat with no air bags and no adjustments (practically) because my 'stang is my daily driver. But if I go to the trouble and expense of making the swap, I want them to be GOOD track seats; not just a minor improvement over what I have now.

Anywho, my question is, to those of you who have the Boss Recaros --

How are they on track? Are the bolsters "enough" for track use? Or should I get a real racing seat instead?

thanks in advance

 

From what I've been told (I don't have experience with them) they are not that great. However, if you take the time to get a harness setup with them they will be better than the regular seats. Otherwise if you get a set of say Corbeau adjustable seats with the adjustable track you have as much adjustment as the Recaro's without the air bags. That being said, if I had Recaro's I probably wouldn't have bought a Corbeau Forza but since it's only 4 bolts (2 bolts, 2 nuts actually) I just swap back and forth depending on how much time between track days.

 

So that is a practical solution too -- just swap out the seat for track days. So you just unhook the wire connectors and the air bag light goes on, but you ignore it, right? How difficult was it to set that up; what is involved?

I think I will start a separate thread for this to give the subject more specific attention, please reply there instead.

 

Today was a fun and long day. Gratta with 3Balls and the season opener for me.

Overall the event went well. I got 6 20minute sessions in today. Some in damp conditions from scattered showers.

New suspension is AWESOME. I like somewhere between 180 and 270 deg (0.5 to 0.75) stiff on the Konis in the front, and 90 and 180 deg or 0.25 to 0.5 stiff on the rear. It makes a lot of difference in how stiff the car feels.

There wasn't much roll to speak of, there was hardly any understeer, and the chassis felt very controlled and surprisingly neutral. Still not a big fan of initial steering input required ... but what can you do.

I set a new personal best at Grattan of 1.32.79 which is about 0.5s faster than last year. On the same tires as the last 2 years.

One thing I didn't like is braking. The tail is wagging again in high speed decel. Also I don't think I have the bite I expect. I had to brake early, which is never fun. I need a new game plan for pads...

And I had a great day, got to chase a 911 GT3 a few times, AND get the point by, i got passed by an R8, plus passing lots of other cars and getting passed too. And I have it all on video! By the GoPro was not aimed correctly, and the white balance is all off. So all you see in the cockit of the Mustang. What a shame .

At least I got some pics.