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It spun the bearings which sent bearing material throughout the entire engine and destroyed pretty much everything. Heads, cams, block etc., anywhere oil goes to in the engine I had tons of bearing material. My oil pan looked like someone poured metallic silver paint in it haha.
Nope. I had a tune on the car previously and was hunting random misfires and camshaft position sensor issues and phantom CEL's for about 4 or 5 months prior to that. With the tune on there I didnt want to have to fight with Ford so I went out and had JPC Racing build me a 326ci block. I'm hoping when all is said and done I can make around 580 to the wheels N/A. It has been about a year and 4 months since I last drove the car so I'm excited about getting it back up and running.
I should probably start a build thread for the car haha. I have over 4 pages in my notebook of the parts that I bought for the car lol
Ok, I decided on Koni Yellows. I was torn between those and Bilsteins, but with the Koni sale around the corner and ~$250 a set Koni wins. Plus they are adjustable, which gives me more control.
Now I'm just waiting for the sale to start, and sometime in April I should have my new set up on the car. Excellent tat, tap, tap.
I have the Koni yellows as well.
Setting them really depends on how smooth or rough the track is. Typically as a rule of thumb, I run the front twice as firm as the rear. I usually set the front to two full turns and the rears to one full turn firm.
You should feel a considerable difference from your stock shocks on the track.
Thanks redonblack, good info. I was just thinking about this. One of the 3 main tacks I go to has a very major dip at the turn in for the main straight. That's a 75-80 mph turn in, but there is a major THUD. I turn in tight after the THUD, but shock setting would be important here.
Interesting strategy, this means you increase the stiffness of your front axle (via stiffer damping) while keeping the rear more soft. That's consitent with the message I get from the rest of the S197 community
Holly does it take F O R E V E R to come back from being compressed at full stiff or what? Like 5 minutes or so?
So now that I have everything, I'm still tempted to get the Steeda competition adjustable front sway. It's only another $189 more, and I keep thinking I might as well get it now and install it all at the same time....
My Koni goodies arrived today. Holly does it take F O R E V E R to come back from being compressed at full stiff or what? Like 5 minutes or so? So now that I have everything, I'm still tempted to get the Steeda competition adjustable front sway. It's only another $189 more, and I keep thinking I might as well get it now and install it all at the same time....
do it :-) happy for you man, exciting times indeed
You may as well go ahead and get the Steeda front sway bar while you have the $$.
Btw, putting on all those parts at once will blow your mind at the performance upgrade! I'm excited for you
Here are a few pics of the springs, shocks and CC plates. . . .
hmmmm . . . . is something missing on the top? Where is the rubber mount?
I guess that isn't on there yet because you haven't taken the old ones off the car yet. Be careful when you take the old ones apart so the bearing does not split, allowing the tiny little ball bearings inside to spill out all over the floor. Not sure I ever found all those little buggers . . .
You may as well go ahead and get the Steeda front sway bar while you have the $$.
Btw, putting on all those parts at once will blow your mind at the performance upgrade! I'm excited for you
I am so READY to have my mind blown. I'm pretty sure I'll follow your advice, and SGwick's as well and get the competition front bar. After doing some research I think I'll set it to the middle hole and call it a day. I'll have my camber @ -2.0, and then the only thing I have to dial is the stiffness settings on the shocks.
My goal is sharp, crisp, precise turn in with loads of mid corner grip and mild oversteer tendency.
Originally Posted by SGwick
ditto
Thank you! I'm getting really excited too. Should be night and day difference!
Originally Posted by Bert
hmmmm . . . . is something missing on the top? Where is the rubber mount?
I guess that isn't on there yet because you haven't taken the old ones off the car yet. Be careful when you take the old ones apart so the bearing does not split, allowing the tiny little ball bearings inside to spill out all over the floor. Not sure I ever found all those little buggers . . .
Yup, you got it. I'll take the lower mount off my current setup. Just not there yet
I believe the cryo- genic rotors are pretty good.
The least expensive and probably the best rotors are the centric plain rotors. They hold up great on the track due to the overall mass to dissipate heat.
12/15/15, 05:48 AM
does it take F O R E V E R to come back from being compressed at full stiff or what? Like 5 minutes or so? 
