'13-14 Cluster into '10-12 car (with TrackApps) retrofit
Shelby GT350 Member
Joined: September 11, 2006
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From: Cumming, GA
I'm hoping when the 2015 PCM's are out. We can flash our cars to a 2015 PCM and get all the goodies including LIne Locks and Launch COntrol which I think will be available from the factory on the GT cars.
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I didn't even think of that, but yes that would be awesome.
I take it that means Launch Control is a no go for the time being?
P.S. Still waiting to see pics of your car Dan!
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)Dan - I wanted to ask you something about your steering wheel controls. I bought a Boss 302 Alcantara wheel and the directional pad switch for the apps and was reading this guide. It looks like the wire harnesses for the wheel are interchangeable, so my question is when I install the Boss 302 wheel, should I swap out my wiring harness from the stock wheel as well?
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: November 7, 2006
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From: Alberta
You don't have to get a harness. If you check the other thread stickied, it will outline how you can wire up the message center switch.
Also, do you have navigation? If so, then you will need to change the right side steering wheel switch as well.
Also, do you have navigation? If so, then you will need to change the right side steering wheel switch as well.
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*EDIT*
Yeah I guess I'll have to call Tousley tomorrow and see if they will ship me the right wheel. Unless someone here has or knows of someone that will swap harnesses with me.
Last edited by McLovin; May 27, 2014 at 08:12 PM.
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Yesir I bought a 4 way switch.
I got the impression from Jim's post that I would have to cut/splice wires in addition to moving around pins. So am I doing both or just moving pins?
Last edited by McLovin; May 27, 2014 at 08:34 PM.
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If you are putting the cluster in a 2011/12, then you will need to do some wiring to get the steering wheel switch to work.
First, disconnect the message center buttons on the headlight switch module. Just disconnect it from the back. It will no longer be used. You may want to get the 2013 headlight switch module which blanks out the message center buttons.
Then, you will need to tap into 2 wires coming out the connector from the back of the cluster.
The connector is C220, and you want to find the wire coming out of pin #6. It is a green wire with a purple stripe. Tap into this wire.
Run that wire to the clockspring in the steering wheel. On the dashboard side, there is a connector (C2274A). You will want to insert the wire you ran from the tap into slot number 3 in the connector (These slots are numbered on the connector). The slot will be empty, so you will have to insert a pin in there. I had an old dash harness that I used to source the proper pins that I needed. You may need to go to an electronics store or electronic repair shop to get the pins you need.
On the steering wheel side of the clockspring, on connector C2274B, you will insert a pin (just as you did on the other side) into slot #6.
Run a wire from pin #6 on C2274B all the way to the connector that plugs into the left steering wheel switch (C2998). You will insert a pin into slot #2 of connector C2998. Again, you will need to source a pin.
That was the message signal wire. Now you need to do the message return wire.
Go back to C220 on the cluster. Find the wire coming from pin #4. It is a white wire with brown stripe. Tap into it.
Run the wire from the tap to C2274A on the clockspring (dashboard side). Plug into slot #11.
On the steering wheel side, run a wire from slot #12 on connector C2274B to the steering wheel switch connector C2998. Plug into slot #3.
Message center button should now work.
Cruise Control
Finally, on connector C2998, you will remove the pin (don't cut the wire) in slot #2 will now go into slot #1. This is for cruise. It will not make cruise work right, but you need to do this for when your PCM gets flashed into a 2013.
If you are using the Black Box from Redline Tuning, then the buttons on the cruise control will be messed up. You will take the switch, take it apart and take the circuit board to an electronics guy to change the resistors as shown in the pic below.
If you have the resistors changed as below, then the cruise buttons will work as follows:
Cncl/Rsm - is now 'on'
On/Off - is now 'off'
-set - is the same
+set - is the same
First, disconnect the message center buttons on the headlight switch module. Just disconnect it from the back. It will no longer be used. You may want to get the 2013 headlight switch module which blanks out the message center buttons.
Then, you will need to tap into 2 wires coming out the connector from the back of the cluster.
The connector is C220, and you want to find the wire coming out of pin #6. It is a green wire with a purple stripe. Tap into this wire.
Run that wire to the clockspring in the steering wheel. On the dashboard side, there is a connector (C2274A). You will want to insert the wire you ran from the tap into slot number 3 in the connector (These slots are numbered on the connector). The slot will be empty, so you will have to insert a pin in there. I had an old dash harness that I used to source the proper pins that I needed. You may need to go to an electronics store or electronic repair shop to get the pins you need.
On the steering wheel side of the clockspring, on connector C2274B, you will insert a pin (just as you did on the other side) into slot #6.
Run a wire from pin #6 on C2274B all the way to the connector that plugs into the left steering wheel switch (C2998). You will insert a pin into slot #2 of connector C2998. Again, you will need to source a pin.
That was the message signal wire. Now you need to do the message return wire.
Go back to C220 on the cluster. Find the wire coming from pin #4. It is a white wire with brown stripe. Tap into it.
Run the wire from the tap to C2274A on the clockspring (dashboard side). Plug into slot #11.
On the steering wheel side, run a wire from slot #12 on connector C2274B to the steering wheel switch connector C2998. Plug into slot #3.
Message center button should now work.
Cruise Control
Finally, on connector C2998, you will remove the pin (don't cut the wire) in slot #2 will now go into slot #1. This is for cruise. It will not make cruise work right, but you need to do this for when your PCM gets flashed into a 2013.
If you are using the Black Box from Redline Tuning, then the buttons on the cruise control will be messed up. You will take the switch, take it apart and take the circuit board to an electronics guy to change the resistors as shown in the pic below.
If you have the resistors changed as below, then the cruise buttons will work as follows:
Cncl/Rsm - is now 'on'
On/Off - is now 'off'
-set - is the same
+set - is the same
He says at the very beginning that you will have to cut and splice wires while later on talks about moving pin locations.
He doesn't specify that if you are going to be using a 4 way switch, all you have to do is move around pin locations or if the splicing of wires is necessary.
I noticed on the Pin Locations he states that the connectors them selves have the locations listed. Are the connectors also numbered to reflect what Connector # he refers to above? If not, do I have to acquire a Ford Service Manual to find the connectors?
I'm hoping that I am not coming across as being rude or unappreciative. I am trying to catch up with you guys in terms of experience and it's east for me to get flustered if something isn't making sense.
Would it be possible to notate for future modders that if they buy any (right?) 2013-2014 steering wheel that has the 4 way switch, they should be able to just plug everything in straight away?
Shelby GT350 Member
Joined: September 11, 2006
Posts: 2,349
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From: Cumming, GA
Not sure if there are any wiring diagrams floating around .. but here is more info on how to move the wires:
https://themustangsource.com/f803/13...514651/index8/
scroll down and compare the 2012 to the 2013 pin configuration.
https://themustangsource.com/f803/13...514651/index8/
scroll down and compare the 2012 to the 2013 pin configuration.
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Not sure if there are any wiring diagrams floating around .. but here is more info on how to move the wires:
https://themustangsource.com/f803/13...514651/index8/
scroll down and compare the 2012 to the 2013 pin configuration.
https://themustangsource.com/f803/13...514651/index8/
scroll down and compare the 2012 to the 2013 pin configuration.
Ok, thank you!
So just to be clear all you did was put a '13 Harness in your wheel and everything worked? Because it looks like there are wires missing that are needed to the clockspring harness. Is this why Jim is saying you need to run/splice wires?
Last edited by McLovin; May 27, 2014 at 09:24 PM.
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: November 7, 2006
Posts: 2,792
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From: Alberta
I didn't buy a harness, but even if you did, that is only part of it. You need to add wires from the cluster to the clock spring.
The first issue is getting the switches wired up to the cluster. On the connector on the back of the cluster, you need to find the wire coming from pin #6 (green/purple) and #4 white/brown).
You will tap into these wires.
From 6, you run that wire to the clock spring connector on the dash side into pin #3. There will be no pin in that slot, so you will have to add one.
On the steering wheel side, you will be using pin slot # 6 on the clock spring connector. From there you go to pin # 2 on the steering wheel switch connector.
From 4, you run that wire to the clock spring connector on the dash side into pin #11. There will be no pin in that slot either, so you will have to add one.
On the steering wheel side, you will be using pin slot # 12 on the clock spring connector. From there you go to pin # 3 on the steering wheel switch connector.
The first issue is getting the switches wired up to the cluster. On the connector on the back of the cluster, you need to find the wire coming from pin #6 (green/purple) and #4 white/brown).
You will tap into these wires.
From 6, you run that wire to the clock spring connector on the dash side into pin #3. There will be no pin in that slot, so you will have to add one.
On the steering wheel side, you will be using pin slot # 6 on the clock spring connector. From there you go to pin # 2 on the steering wheel switch connector.
From 4, you run that wire to the clock spring connector on the dash side into pin #11. There will be no pin in that slot either, so you will have to add one.
On the steering wheel side, you will be using pin slot # 12 on the clock spring connector. From there you go to pin # 3 on the steering wheel switch connector.
Last edited by jim010; May 27, 2014 at 09:36 PM.
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I didn't buy a harness, but even if you did, that is only part of it. You need to add wires from the cluster to the clock spring.
The first issue is getting the switches wired up to the cluster. On the connector on the back of the cluster, you need to find the wire coming from pin #6 (green/purple) and #4 white/brown).
You will tap into these wires.
From 6, you run that wire to the clock spring connector on the dash side into pin #3. There will be no pin in that slot, so you will have to add one.
On the steering wheel side, you will be using pin slot # 6 on the clock spring connector. From there you go to pin # 2 on the steering wheel switch connector.
From 4, you run that wire to the clock spring connector on the dash side into pin #11. There will be no pin in that slot either, so you will have to add one.
On the steering wheel side, you will be using pin slot # 12 on the clock spring connector. From there you go to pin # 3 on the steering wheel switch connector.
The first issue is getting the switches wired up to the cluster. On the connector on the back of the cluster, you need to find the wire coming from pin #6 (green/purple) and #4 white/brown).
You will tap into these wires.
From 6, you run that wire to the clock spring connector on the dash side into pin #3. There will be no pin in that slot, so you will have to add one.
On the steering wheel side, you will be using pin slot # 6 on the clock spring connector. From there you go to pin # 2 on the steering wheel switch connector.
From 4, you run that wire to the clock spring connector on the dash side into pin #11. There will be no pin in that slot either, so you will have to add one.
On the steering wheel side, you will be using pin slot # 12 on the clock spring connector. From there you go to pin # 3 on the steering wheel switch connector.
Also, the only "electronics" stores we have where I live is Home Depot and Lowes. Is there some place that you recommend I can purchase the wire/connectors/pins/tools I need?
If I don't end up buying the '13 Wheel/Harness, I just need to add wires/pins to the existing harness in my '12 right?
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Joined: November 7, 2006
Posts: 2,792
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From: Alberta
Ok, what is your recommendation for splicing into the wires? I have 0 soldering skills, so do I just cut that wire and peel back the sheathing and twist together? I thought I recall seeing a butt connector-esque deal where it crimps on the wire you're splicing/tapping into and then you can crimp the new wire into the other end like a normal butt connector. Am I right?
Also, the only "electronics" stores we have where I live is Home Depot and Lowes. Is there some place that you recommend I can purchase the wire/connectors/pins/tools I need?
If I don't end up buying the '13 Wheel/Harness, I just need to add wires/pins to the existing harness in my '12 right?
Also, the only "electronics" stores we have where I live is Home Depot and Lowes. Is there some place that you recommend I can purchase the wire/connectors/pins/tools I need?
If I don't end up buying the '13 Wheel/Harness, I just need to add wires/pins to the existing harness in my '12 right?
As for what you can do for splicing? As you said, you can just buy taps that cut into the wire. Just make sure you close it fairly tight to ensure that it cuts through the plastic cover of the wire. But since you won't be needing the wires from pins 4 and 6 to go all the way down to the headlight switch anymore, you can just reroute those wires to the clock spring instead. No splicing.
As for the pins, I cannibalized my old dash harness for pins that worked. You may need to take pictures of the pins you need and show the electronics guy. Any mom & pops electronics repair shop can help you. The only tools you need are pliers, scissors, Xacto nice (or model hobby blades) and electrical tape.
Last edited by jim010; May 27, 2014 at 10:12 PM.
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Yes, you are adding male and female pins into the clock spring connectors, and one into the switch connector. 1 pin in the switch connector does get moved. Check the post for which one as I don't remember.
As for what you can do for splicing? As you said, you can just buy taps that cut into the wire. Just make sure you close it fairly tight to ensure that it cuts through the plastic cover of the wire. But since you won't be needing the wires from pins 4 and 6 to go all the way down to the headlight switch anymore, you can just reroute those wires to the clock spring instead. No splicing.
As for the pins, I cannibalized my old dash harness for pins that worked. You may need to take pictures of the pins you need and show the electronics guy. Any mom & pops electronics repair shop can help you. The only tools you need are pliers, scissors, Xacto nice (or model hobby blades) and electrical tape.
As for what you can do for splicing? As you said, you can just buy taps that cut into the wire. Just make sure you close it fairly tight to ensure that it cuts through the plastic cover of the wire. But since you won't be needing the wires from pins 4 and 6 to go all the way down to the headlight switch anymore, you can just reroute those wires to the clock spring instead. No splicing.
As for the pins, I cannibalized my old dash harness for pins that worked. You may need to take pictures of the pins you need and show the electronics guy. Any mom & pops electronics repair shop can help you. The only tools you need are pliers, scissors, Xacto nice (or model hobby blades) and electrical tape.
Do any of these look right?
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/ind...th/109_130_131
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/ind.../cPath/109_110
Just throwing this out there, I will happily pay someone that could make the wires I need.
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I checked with Tousley and the 2013 Boss wheel is on back order until early June.
Do you guys think O'Rielly's or AutoZOne would sell the pins? Cause short of either driving 100 miles to Vegas or trying to order these things online, seem to be my only option at this point.
I hate living in BFE lol
*edit*This looks like it could work and says it's even in stock!
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=318699_0_0_
Do you guys think O'Rielly's or AutoZOne would sell the pins? Cause short of either driving 100 miles to Vegas or trying to order these things online, seem to be my only option at this point.
I hate living in BFE lol
*edit*This looks like it could work and says it's even in stock!
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=318699_0_0_
Last edited by McLovin; May 28, 2014 at 10:41 AM.
