No it wasn't the pump, the gt pump works fine. It's something to do with the ignition, when I use the key the PCM is commanding the pumps but it stops commanding them once you let off the key. Basically what I understand is there needs to be a capacitor holding power to transition the car from cranking to running. I used the f150 pump control module.

I see those shims for $20 each and yes I've read all about it now on other forums since you made me aware. The 3.5 should be the exact same as the 3.7 so there's a chance I might have a future problem. But for now the clutch works great, we will see!

 

To clarify what Lexiion said about the pumps. We think that the gt500 pumps were building enough pressure to get the engine running after the key was turned off, but the GT pump does not. It's not a problem with the GT pump, it's with the electronics. The gt500 pumps were building far too much pressure and it was a bandaid to the problem that we have with the ignition. Maybe I made this even more confusing lol, basically we are having an issue with the in-between time. In-between stopping cranking and the engine running on its own. Lexiion may can do a better job explaining it.

 

I drove the car today for a solid hour collectively. I took it over to Lexiion's house so he could data log for Matt. I'm really looking forward to getting the tune back, the engine revs up for a second after you let off the throttle. This makes it a little challenging to drive, I have to let off the gas for a second between shifts or it revs up pretty high. I'm assuming the tune will get rid if this.

While I was there Lexiion added a capacitor inline with the ignition, it seems to be working now although it's a little hard to start....but it does start now again with the key.

I searched and searched for a rearend with factory installed 3.73 gears and paid a little extra to get one. I think this was a mistake, the gearing is so low with the v6 mt-82 that first gear is a granny gear. As soon as you press the gas the engine revs but the car doesn't move, then you have to shift. I feel like this engine needs a taller gear, I still have my factory gt500 gears sitting around, I may need to have them installed in the car. I'll wait till the tune is sorted out first so I can do some hard launches to make sure it's a problem as is. I'm seriously wondering if I can launch the car in second while racing and still do well with it.

The car hauls *** with only 1/2 throttle with the factory tune, especially in 2nd and 3rd. I got some GoPro videos but apparently I recorded them in a lower resolution and they won't download to my iPad. I've had these gopros for almost 2 years and I haven't gotten any usable footage with them for one reason or another. I'll have to use a computer tomorrow to post them.

 

I wouldn't have thought the gear ratios would have been that far apart between those different transmissions. Do you know what the ratios are for it and the GT mt-82?

 

I guess I answered my own question with Google, lol.

Looks like the GT first gear is a 3.66 and the V-6 is a 4.24. The rest of them are fairly close.

Stock GT MT-82 ratios:

• 3.66
• 2.43
• 1.69
• 1.32
• 1.00
• 0.65

Stock V6 MT-82 ratios:

• 4.24
• 2.54
• 1.66
• 1.24
• 1.00
• 0.70

 

I would be very ignorant without google

What makes this problem even worse is that in stock form it doesn't make much sense to run the 3.5 engine past 5500 rpms where the stock coyote is good closer to 6700 before power falls off. This makes second gear come even faster for the 3.5.

This may change some with the tune giving me more power on the top end. It will defintely change with some new turbos. With the stock turbos amd stock tune the toque falls off a cliff at 5500 rpm.

Any of you guys with 3.73 gears and 3.7s let me know if you think this was the right choice on gears for drag racing. What rpm are you guys shifting at?

 

3.73s tend to be the go to option for people drag racing all motor cyclones. That said, they aren't usually recommended for boosted cars. Most of the boosted cyclones run 3.31 or 3.55, some even run the stock 2.73s. I have 3.55s in mine and was crossing the line with at least 1500rpm to go in 4th when I was NA with some bolt ons. I haven't driven the car in so long that I forgot what the exact shift points are lol.

I have a feeling 3.55s will be a bit too short with the power band of the 3.5 though. The 3.7 has no bottom end, so the 3.73s are really necessary to get it out of the hole and keep the revs nice and high. I think the 3.5 kind of has the opposite issue. It looks like the tuned 3.5s start to taper off around 6k though, so I'm probably going to switch to 3.31s when I get mine up and running. Plus I need to swap gears anyway because I made the mistake of thinking Motive gears would be ok in a daily lol.

 

Ya I think a gear swap is in my future. I can easily change to the 3.31 gears that I already have when I swap the axles and differential to aftermarket. I'll probably change the driveshaft to the one piece aluminum at that time too.

Looks like I can go 140 mph in 4th gear at 7000 rpms with 3.31 gears which will easily get me across the finish line without shifting in to 5th. This motor makes so much bottom end torque that I feel like it's wasted on short gears., it's something that I didn't consider until I drove it.

The tire size I listed is the tires on the car right now. Ironically it's got a 27" diameter which is the same size slick I was planning to use.

 

I realized why it doesn't feel like I'm able to gain any speed in 1st gear, it's because I'm not making much torque. If it doesn't make sense why I would get a taller gear for racing think of it this way. If you rev a turbo engine while in neutral it doesn't spool the turbos like when the engine is under load, when the turbos are spooled up is when you are making max torque. In 1st gear with 3.73 gears the engine doesn't struggle to accelerate, so not much load on it. This works great for N/A cars but for this turbo car I'm not spooling the turbos under a load until 2nd gear, my engine hits the shift point before I really start making any boost pressure in 1st gear. I'm not hittimg full torque in 1st gear but with a taller gear it will put the engine under more load spooling the turbos sooner, hitting max torque sooner.

 

Looks like I got my 97 mustang sold, the buyer put down a deposit and will be here on the 4th to pick it up. This frees up some money to finish the car and my wife has given me a strict budget of $4,750 to get the car ready to race in June, she said don't ask for another dime before then! So this means I can spend $5k without pissing her off. Assuming I don't get any surprises with the tuning what's the best use of the money, what do you guys think?

Mandatory to me
1. SVE drag star wheels 15x10, 17x4.5 $700
2. Pair of 15" drag slicks $400
3. Pair of skinny front tires $350
4. Aluminum driveshaft $650
5. Saftey equipment (fire extinguisher, neck brace, fire suit, driver side 5 point harness) $300
6. WOT 2 step box $200
7. One more 90/10 drag strut $150 (I already bought one)
$2,750 total

$2,250 left in the budget, optional items
1. Moser axles $400
2. Differential $750
3. Nitrous $1,100
4. Turbo upgrade $2,500 (maybe I could swing a discount)
5. Shifter $250-450
6. Lightweight flywheel and new clutch $700

To help weigh the options I've got stock axles, stock differential, stock turbos, stock boss clutch, stock flywheel, stock shifter with Barton bracket and whiteline bushing. With e85 and the extra fuel I should be around 550-600 whp. Where is the money best spent?

 

I've been buying parts lately from LMR, really good deals and free shipping. I ended up buying dark stainless SVE drag race stars in 15x10 and 17x4.5 for $630 with free shipping! What a deal....they have a discount code (good7) until Sunday that gets you a 7% discount. They aren't in stock and it's going to be 6 weeks to get them, that part sucks. Oh well I really don't need them before then anyway. I think the dark stainless will look better than the chrome that everyone else seems to have, they aren't as polished and seem to have a matte finish.

https://lmr.com/item/WK-1007S4653D/s...x45-15x10-0514

Here's how they look....

 

Another pic

 

Have fun removing your rear brakes for those 15" wheels

LEXiiON

 

Ya, the bracket for the gt500 brakes isn't a big deal to remove. What sucks though is I tossed the caliper bolts and the smaller rotors and will now have to go buy those new

 

I have my rear rotors but I don't think I have the caliper bolts. I can check. I'll send you the rotors for the cost of shipping

Oh and you must have had the caliper brackets that the guy on SVTP makes? That's what I'm currently running too. Swapping to Wilwood front and rear shortly though!

 

I used these brackets for the gt500 rear brakes, easy to swap them on and off.

 

Man that would be awesome! I'd be glad to send you a shipping label for those rotors. I'll send you a pm this weekend, no rush. Thank you!!!

 

I have tons of caliper bolts brand new in my garage.

LEXiiON

 

Sweeeet! Thanks

 

Yep that's what I have now, with the 13-14 GT500 rear rotors. Boom problem solved haha!